April 23rd. A Day Both Challenging and Practical.

Christine is fond of saying to other Perigrinos “Listen to your body”. She will likely take her own advice tomorrow. Temperatures reached a hot and sunny 26c today, and are predicted to hit 28c tomorrow. This was tough on her, especially since we are in a hilly section with little shade.

The small lizards that we see scurrying up ancient rock walls love this, but we are mammals and not lizards. Chris will likely transport the 18km tomorrow to Ponte de Lima and find accommodations for us in that ancient river community while I walk to join her. The forecast for the remainder of the week looks to be more moderate. We will keep our fingers crossed.

We had hoped to overnight at a the very popular Albergue Fernando, however the operative word, “popular” meant that it was booked solid. We then secured a nearby option, Quinta Cancela, a charming villa and grounds, with accommodating staff. Our room is part of a 200+ year old structure with solid rock walls that are 2 feet thick. Our room is private, ensuite, includes breakfast, and at 80 euros would break most “pilgrim budgets”. I’m not saying that it isn’t worth it, just that we like to shoot for a lower price point on the Camino.

I have done our laundry and I am typing this note while waiting for our things to line dry. Over the last few years I have read that merino wool underclothes are naturally antimicrobial and thus “odor neutral”. I had been a skeptic, but not any more. Even socks smell fresh after an overnight airing, ready for another hard day on the trail.

Dinner was a short walk into town to a restaurant that featured local favorites. We like Portuguese cuisine… Christine the land variety and me the stuff that swims. We were joined by Irene and Manuala, Perigrinas from Switzerland. Irene spoke some Spanish which was helpful in communicating with our restaurant host, Edwardo, who spoke no English. Here I was at table with 3 lovely women. Edwardo projected a strong sense of admiration for me. He pantomimed “Amigo!” to me, and brought me a snifter of his best house brandy. A lengthy “conversation” proceeded where Edwardo did all the talking and we did our best to hang on and understand. He is 26 days younger than me and is officially of retirement age in 4 months. Unfortunately, his two children,a geologist son and chemist daughter, are not interested in taking over the family restaurant. He is not sure what to do, so for the time being he will continue to work. There was an overtone of sadness to Edwardo’s account. Nevertheless, it did not detract from an incredible meal enjoyed in good company. Edwardo made the meal, and we made memories!

Peace Everyone! Pete