We departed Reykjavik this morning choosing to embrace the countryside over the urban celebrations of Iceland’s National Day. For us the party actually began a little after midnight when volley after volley of fireworks explosions “split the light”. Remember, we haven’t seen darkness since we arrived in Iceland.

Þjóðhátíðardagurinn, celebrates Iceland’s June 17th plebiscite which severed its centuries long ties to Denmark and established the Iceland Republic. Shortly thereafter Iceland joined NATO and is not only the member with the smallest population (350,000) but the only one without a standing army. It is considered the “greenest” nation in the world with almost 100% of its energy needs being met through renewable non-polluting sources, geo-thermal being the primary one.

Iceland is Europe’s second largest island, second only to Great Britain. It is geologically active and is the only place where the tectonic plates of the mid-Atlantic Ridge are found above sea level. Although Iceland is situated just below the Arctic Circle, it enjoys a relatively temperate climate due to the warming influence of the Gulf Stream. Winters are said to be more moderate than those of New York City.

Iceland is geologically young and rapidly changing. These factors contribute to its remarkable beauty. The “Golden Circle” is an arbitrary route outside of Reykjavik that links some of the most popular and accessible tourist sites. It is under 180 miles in length and can be driven in under 4 hours. 6-8 hours are needed to include visits to the major attractions.

Today we mostly enjoyed the remarkable vistas.

However our drive included stops at the Geysir (actual spelling) geothermal area and the stunning Gullfoss waterfall. The Great Geysir has been mostly silent in recent years, but we were treated to multiple eruptions of the Strokkur Geysir which are only slightly smaller than those of Yellowstone’s Old Faithful.

The Gullfoss Waterfall descends over 100 feet in two huge cascades, discharging over 35,000 gallons of water a second into an ancient river gorge. It is breathtaking!

We may give thanks to the tenacity of one woman for the preservation of this wonder.

Tomorrow we plan on continuing our leisurely tour of the Golden Circle and may include some hiking in and around Iceland’s Þingvellir National Park.

In the meantime we are enjoying our rustic but comfortable hotel accommodations which include a bar, restaurant, and the obligatory Iceland spa.

Peace Everyone. Pete

PS. Happy Father’s Day!

While Kansas City sweltered in humid temperatures that approached 100 degrees, we shivered in constant rain with temps that didn’t make it to 50. Nevertheless, nothing interfered with this as a unique and fun filled day.

First stop was the nearby Catholic Cathedral where we secured the final stamp in our Camino credentials. Reykjavik’s Cathedral of Christ the King was built and consecrated in 1929. Its new Bishop was installed that year, the last one having been executed in 1550. There were virtually no Catholics in Iceland until the late 1800’s, a 1970 census placed the number at just over 1,000, and today there are about 13,000 in a country of 350,000.

We also visited the towering Lutheran Church, which is the center of Iceland’s official religion. In front of the Church is a beautiful bronze statue of Lief Erickson, a 1930 gift to the people of Iceland from the people of the United States.

In the course of making improvements to the center of Reykjavik the remains of an 1,100 year old Viking settlement were discovered. These ruins which are below modern street level were preserved and the urban improvements were installed overhead. This information rich site provided us with details about life in the early settlement, and even insights into the genetic heritage of the original and modern inhabitants. DNA establishes that most of the early male inhabitants were from Scandinavia but most of the females were from Ireland and Scotland. This is consistent with the practice of raiders during the Viking era of taking women into bondage.

We also visited the oldest remaining house in Reykjavik, which dates to 1772. It now serves as a museum that features temporary exhibits. Currently photographs from 1918 are on display. These images portray life in the months preceding the Spanish Influenza epidemic that devastated Iceland and the world.

Tomorrow is Iceland’s National Day, but for soccer fans that day was today. Russia is hosting soccer’s World Cup. This is the first World Cup competition for Iceland and today was its first match. They faced an experienced team from Argentina and were considered to be hopelessly outmatched. Iceland played Argentina to a historic 1-1 tie which we and much of Reykjavik watched on a huge outdoor screen in the city center. We again had the experience of finding ourselves in the right place at the right time. Serendipity at its best.

Finally, we attended an intimate play at Reykjavik’s Harpa, a remarkable center for the performing arts.

It was a one act performance featuring two talented and energetic actors. They presented an interwoven comedic script based upon the subjects of all 40 of the surviving “Icelandic Sagas”.

At times they made this into an outrageous audience participation farce. I myself became the recipient of a pair of large hanging boobs. We reprised this in a post production photo opportunity with the actors.

Tomorrow Christine and I strike out into the countryside for a very different “Icelandic Saga”.

Peace Everyone. Pete

PS. On a street corner is a non-descript food stand that sells hotdogs. Bæjarins beztu has been there since 1937, and is one of those “must do” things that visitors of all stripes “must do”,

At the beginning of this journey, or “Odyssey” as suggested by a friend, Christine and I imagined it to unfold like the chapters of a book… Puerto Rico, the Atlantic crossing, Barcelona to Porto, walking the Camino, Ireland, Scotland, the Continent, and now Iceland as the final “chapter”. 83 days behind us, 7 yet before us. My mother has closely followed these posts. She suggests that I look tired. I think “travel weary” is a more apt description. Whether tired or weary I already imagine heading off with the camper at the far side of reuniting with our home, children, and grandchildren.

Our flight was uneventful and has placed us not only closer to the arctic circle (about 150 miles north of us), but two time zones closer to home (5 more to go). Norway’s verdant forested green has been replaced by Iceland’s stark moonscape. We have rented a car. It has been 12 weeks since I last drove. The roads look well maintained (so far), but we have been cautioned about the hazards of glass etching volcanic sandstorms, door destroying coastal winds, flash-floods, and worst of all the merciless speed cameras that mete out thousand dollar fines.

 

 

We will be staying the first two nights and final night at a simple but well located Airbnb in Reykjavik. The 4 nights in between will be spent at lodgings in the countryside.

We have been warned that dining out can be breathtakingly expensive. Our experience this evening was pricey but the meal was both unusual and exceptional. Two “grand appetizers” for each of us together with drinks and a shared desert set us back the equivalent of $130.00.

I enjoy exploring new cuisines and tonight was a double header. My choices were a creatively arranged Arctic Char and an incredibly tender horse meat filet. I suggested to Christine that the chef might consider naming it their “Belmont Steak”. She was not amused. However, she sampled the filet,or should I say filly (another really bad pun) and declared it to be quite tasty.

We walked the old wharf to get a sense of the area and we look forward to seeing the sights of the city tomorrow.

Peace Everyone. Pete.

PS. Today’s high in Reykjavik was 51 degrees. Tomorrow’s high is predicted to be 48. Sorry Kansas City. On the other hand, you have “night” there, unlike here where it is now light 24/7.