It’s been over 50 years since I called Chicago’s south suburbs “home“. Calumet City, South Holland, and finally Crete. 

Until five years ago there was a place and a person that welcomed me “home“. Then my mother passed from this life to…? She is still in my contacts and I saved her last voicemail message to me. Rarely a day go by that I do not hear her voice in my heart, “… Peter Michael…!“

Christine and I are in Chicago for four nights, enjoying the sites and activities of the downtown. We flew in and do not have a car. This is perhaps the first time that I have not visited “home“ and connected with old friends here. 

We have not been idle. A visit to the Field Museum, a water taxi to Chinatown, an evening at the theater, an afternoon of baseball at Wrigley Field, THE CUBS! Of course, there are the dining experiences and relaxed stays at two upscale downtown hotels, The Club Quarters River Hotel and the Korean themed L7 Hotel.

All of this is a prelude to a 52+ hour cross-country train journey via Amtrak. Christine and I have taken overnight sleeper trains many times in Europe, but none of this duration or with these amenities. We have a private compartment with bath and shower. There is private dining, an observation car (should we grow tired of our own picture window), and a steward assigned to our compartment (yes, room service!). The train stops will include Omaha (Nebraska), Denver and Winter Park (Colorado), Salt Lake City (Utah), Reno (Nevada), and our final destination, San Francisco, California.

We could have planned overnight stays in any of those cities but chose to take the entire route as a continuous journey for the experience. We imagine that there will be delays since passenger trains in the United States take second priority to freight trains. We will spend four nights in San Francisco before flying home to Kansas City.

What follows here is a diary and visual buffet of our time in The Windy City:

We flew into Chicago via Southwest Airlines. Cramped, relatively unpleasant, but inexpensive and tolerable for a little over an hour in the air. 

Chicago features excellent commuter transport. A three day pass on all Chicago Transit Authority services cost us $15 apiece. It took us about 30 minutes to train from Midway airport to the downtown Loop. 

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On day one we had enough time in the afternoon to visit parts of Chicago’s Field Museum. To do it justice one really needs a day.

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The real big “bird”!
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Depressing.

The “Museum Campus“ includes the Field Museum, Museum of Science and Industry, Adler Planetarium, and the Shedd Aquarium. To take in all of these one would need an entire weekend.

A visit to the Millennium Park and the “Bean“ was a must. Just to the south is the Chicago Art Institute, which we have previously visited.

We have achieved over 15,000 steps each day, but it hardly seems like an effort as the weather and scenery have been so pleasant.

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Highlights of day two included a river taxi to Chinatown with late lunch. 

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This was followed by an extraordinary evening downtown at the theater. 

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We spent two hours enthralled by the production of Hadestown (nominated for 14 Tony Awards). If this ever comes to your community it is a must see!

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Day three found us at Chicago’s Wrigley Field to watch the Cubs lose to the San Francisco Giants.

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We were 12 rows up from the field and I came within 3 feet of fielding a fly ball.

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Earlier in the day I had learned that a high school friend (Crete-Monee class of 1970) would be at the game. Among the thousands of spectators we sought out and found classmate Bobbi Decker for a brief reunion.

Our original plan had been to spend four nights at the Club Quarters River Hotel. The accommodations were acceptable and concierge,Jock, was a delight!

However, we decided to look for something more upscale for the final 2 nights. We secured a suite of rooms at the Korean themed L7 Hotel, and all I could say was “Wow“! It was a good move.

The guest lounge. 
Our bedroom. Our adjoining living room was nearly the same size. 
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Dinner at The Evie Restaurant on Michigan Avenue capped off a memorable third day.

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Christine ordered a fillet and I enjoyed a Lake Superior whitefish. 

Day four and we took a long leisurely stroll up, down, and around “The Magnificent Mile”, Michigan Avenue.

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The iconic Chicago Water Tower was the only building to survive the Great Chicago Fire of 1871.
The interior of the water pumping station across from the water tower. These works are over 150 years old. 
I haven’t seen the combination of these two in years! 
Looking up at the 100 story tall John Hancock Center. 

During the sojourn we learned the identity of the new Pope. The city was abuzz with the news that one of its own was the new Pontiff, Leo XIV! “Da Pope” (that’s Chicago speak) and I grew up at the same time a few miles apart in neighboring parishes.

Of course, there was some shopping.

We were fortunate to secure a late afternoon reservation at Pizzeria Portofino on the river.

The food and ambiance were excellent, but the real highlight was our server, Ellee.

It was only her third shift but she handled the packed venue like a seasoned veteran. Ellee is looking forward the development of her business (interior design and organizing home and office environments). Near to our hearts is her upcoming trip to Portugal and Spain.

To Ellee’s mom: Be proud, you raised her well!

Day four concluded with a stroll down Chicago’s River Walk, the setting sun to our backs and a cold Lake Michigan wind in our faces…

…But at the end of this long day it was Richardo who served the BEST martinis!

Tomorrow begins Part 2, we board our train to San Francisco.

Peace Everyone. Pete

PS. Upon reflection this occurred to me, 1972. I was barely 20 years old and it was 2 years before I met Christine. I was passenger on a couple of other notable train trips: London to Paris; at the English Channel the train was uncoupled in segments and rolled into an ocean ferry. We crossed the Channel, dining on deck above and sleeping in our train compartments below. Later that summer I travelled on the Orient Express, 23 hours Belgrad Yugoslavia to Paris France (2nd class, and nothing like in the movies. It was brutal).

20 thoughts on “Chicago to San Francisco, Part 1

  1. Pete and Christine (wish I’d known you were going when we crossed paths last week at Roasterie!) ………. What an adventure! Growing up in Canada, (from ages 7-17 in the 50s/60s) I travelled every summer with my Grandmother (then in her 80s) on “The Canadian” from T.O.(ronto) to VAN(couver). Not quite compartment style for us in those days but sleeping berths. No better way to travel. Have a wonderful, wonderful time. So great to see you two on the road again.

  2. Wow! Just got back from the Camino Portuguese and the fine accommodations of the Albergues, such a contrast but I wouldn’t have it any other way. Continue to enjoy your lovely trip.

  3. Pete, so funny but I also traveled by train all over Europe in summer of 1972. I had money stolen in a hostel in Rome but still had my train pass and then almost took it through Yugoslavia with a hair brained idea I could sell blood for money. Thank God I didn’t do it. I bet it was brutal. Those were the days!

  4. Diane Richardson says:

    Sounds like a really fun four days! I once took the train from Chicago to LA and back. Nothing so fancy as your accommodations, but great fun! I went out on the old Santa Fe route, and came back on the northern route.
    One small, tiny, minuscule correction though, The Bean is North of the Art Institute! 😉

  5. Susan Ross says:

    Thank you for taking me with you Pete! Great picture tures and stories of your time in Chicago, another city I haven’t visited. The museum would definitely be in my list! Best wishes from John and me!

    • Susan, it is so good to hear from you! Please give our best to John. We have already begun talking about the possibility of cross country train travel in Canada. We are thinking for this summer of the possibility of taking our camper and circling Lake Superior .

  6. Mary Coronado says:

    Peter
    I worked 1 block from the Bean for 35 years and frequently walked there on my breaks. What did you think of the huge speakers at Millennial park?

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