We were up early and out the door of our hotel to meet Bryony at the Brussels Central Station for a one hour train ride and a daytrip to Antwerp. Walking the streets of a beautiful city shorn of its usual crowds has its benefits.

Both the Brussels and the Antwerp Central Train Stations are huge “beehives” of activity. Their architecture oozes old world charm. In the case of Antwerp, as it became necessary to expand the number of tracks serving the city they merely expanded downward. Each level contains many train platforms providing service to national and international destinations. There are over 20 separate train platforms!

In the 10 weeks that we have now been traveling we have ridden over 20 separate train trips, not counting commuter subway trips. Not a single one of those trips have been off their published timetable… every one has departed and arrived precisely on time!

Antwerp is a busy seaport city that is known for its prominence in the diamond trade. We passed on shopping those venues in favor of strolling the harbor area, and ascending the MAS art museum building for a free panorama of the city.

We did not have time to actually visit the collection, but just walking about inside was entertaining. There were lifelike statues of a ship captain and female officer standing at the edge of one of the floors, and a well utilized study area.

The city vista was also entertaining as one building displayed a series of larger than life human figures climbing the walls.

Our intended destination was the Red Star Museum. This is a sister site to New York’s Ellis Island. Over a span of approximately 40 years from the late 19th Century to the early 20th Century, Ellis Island received over 12 million immigrants for processing into the United States. Over 2 million of those souls had departed from Antwerp. The Red Star Museum is named after the prominent ship line that transported many of those emigrants from Antwerp and is housed in the buildings that processed those folks.

The museum presents the stories of those people, both the prominent such as Albert Einstein, and the nameless.

Screening to standards set by US Immigration at the departure point was necessary as any passenger rejected in New York had to be returned to Europe at the ship company’s expense. In spite of the rigorous examination, 2% were still turned back in New York. Imagine the heart rending choice that parents had to make when one of their young children was rejected and they could either proceed without her or choose to keep the family intact and return to Europe. Most families chose to continue on as social, economic, and political conditions in their former countries provided no real option for returning. Societies were formed to care for those “orphaned” children in the “old country”, helping them to remain in contact with their families if such was possible.

Our day also included a wonderful harborside lunch, and then a late evening dinner at a French restaurant back in Brussels.

We depart Belgium tomorrow evening and will be aboard a night sleeper train. Our destination will be Bratislava Slovakia for 3 days with Svetlana Rosinova, her husband Milan Rosina and their children. Svetlana lived with us for a year as a high school exchange student in the 1990’s. This will be an exciting reunion!

Peace Everyone. Pete

We arrived today by train in Brussels Belgium and were greeted by Bryony Ulyett who we have not seen for 26 years! She will be our companion for the next two days, sharing the sights and culture of a country at the western crossroads of Europe. She and Christine appear below in front of the birthplace of actress Audrey Hepburn.

Belgium is officially bilingual (Dutch and French), and Brussels City is not only the nation’s capital and location of Belgium’s Royal Palace, but also the de facto capital of the European Union. It is believed that there are more ambassadors and journalists in this city of 1.2 million than in Washington DC.

We began savoring the local cuisine and exceptional beer with her this evening. The real tour begins tomorrow.

Travel of a significant duration will inevitably include times of problem solving. As detailed in an earlier post, we were caught in a rainstorm while in the Netherlands. Christine’s iPad became “toast”. She has coverage to replace it, but only with the same model. The Apple Store in Amsterdam did not have one in stock and it could take up to two weeks for one to arrive if ordered. Of course, we have left Amsterdam and are now in Brussels Belgium.

As luck would have it, the Apple Store in Brussels was a 10 minute walk from our hotel. Christine left me at a street side restaurant with permission to caress a Belgian Blond or two (it’s a style of beer) and continued on to Apple to tell them her tale of woe.

I understand the importance of the iPad to Chris. It contains her books, puzzles, provides email and video contact for her with the “little people”, and most of all provides her with a reprieve from the uninterrupted version of me. I get it. The Brussels store had ONE in stock!

While Christine was engaged for nearly two hours at the store with the task of transferring data and functionality to the new device one might imagine that I would have become either bored, inebriated, or both. Instead, It turned into one of the most pleasant and insightful 2 hours of this journey.

I sat solo under an umbrellaed sidewalk table. It had rained earlier in the day so the pavement was wet and there was a lingering mist in the air. This was a busy upscale urban shopping district so there was a constant flow of traffic and people. A stream of life passed me from left to right and right to left… male, female, caucasian, black, oriental, young, old, fit, disabled… those characteristics stood out, but what was impossible to discern was nationality.

I was “invisible” to those who passed my table. I had become part of the wallpaper of that street scene. When I sought to make eye contact folks appeared to look right through me. The rare exceptions were a very old woman who met my gaze with a broad smile, and a few youngsters who looked at me with a mixture of wonder and curiosity. It was an extraordinary experience.

I found myself wondering. My literacy is limited to English and stands in stark contrast to the common command of at least two, or three languages by these pedestrians. Christine was availing herself of services in a “foreign country” with the same seamless ease that she would expect in Kansas City. Our sojourn will tally visits to 17 countries yet involves only 6 different currencies. Our Eurail Pass is a magic carpet of travel recognized by 28 countries. Our T-Mobile phone plan allows us virtually the same telephone and data access that we enjoy stateside, but extended to over 140 countries. We see familiar products and brands in virtually every store. I could go on…

What could any thinking nation ever expect to gain by succumbing to the siren song of xenophobia and isolationism. What insecurity drives those voices. Certainly, the forces of innovation that have conferred stardom upon a nation on the world stage sing an entirely different song.

Peace Everyone. Pete

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I am writing this on May 31st. We have concluded 2 very nice days with our friend from the 2013 Camino, Jacobien Ubbink and members of her family. It was really nice to be guests in her home and have the opportunity to reconnect in depth. We spent yesterday with her touring the Rijksmuseum and wandering amid the canals and byways of Amsterdam’s Old City.

The Rijksmuseum of Dutch Art and History has been located In Amsterdam since 1808. It houses a phenomenal collection of priceless paintings by such 17th Century masters as Rembrandt, Vermeer, Hals, and Steen. The Museum has over 1 million objects in its collection, of which approximately 8,000 are currently on display.

Rembrandt’s masterwork, The Night Watch (1642} is the focal point of an entire gallery of masterpieces.

One of Rembrandt’s works that may be very familiar to Americans of my generation has been the package trademark for Dutch Masters Cigars since 1912.

The gentlemen in the painting are not discussing the finer points of a cigar’s “predominantly tobacco with non-tobacco ingredients”, but rather are a group of merchants evaluating cloth. Thus, the title of this 1662 masterwork is, “Syndics of the Drapers’ Guild”.

Of course, there are other eye popping pieces from other periods as well.

The current museum building itself is a work of remarkable architecture. It was designed by Pierre Cuypers and built in 1885. It is one of the centerpieces that define this beautiful city.

I learned today that while we were touring the Rijksmuseum yesterday, another Camino friend from 2013 was there as well. Had we only known… Damn the bad luck that prevented us from meeting!!!

Amsterdam is perhaps the most culturally open place that I have ever visited. By my measure, the people of Amsterdam are friendly, polite, and English of a very high order is spoken throughout the city. Yes, there is the “Red Light District”, and yes the odor of burning marijuana may be encountered, but the city is safe, clean, steeped in history, and exceptionally charming.

One who is more concerned with the way that others live life than how he conducts his own should probably pass on visiting here. (Matthew 7:1-5)

Peace Everyone. Pete

We leave for Brussels Belgium tomorrow and will be visiting a young lady that we have maintained overseas contact with since 1991.

On a somber note, a stroll by the home of Anne Frank, or a casual glance to the pavement provide reminders of the darker side of a history that touched these good people.

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We arrived by plane today in Amsterdam. As we crossed the coast from the North Sea it was striking to observe the flatness of the landscape and tidy organization of roadways below us. This was in stark contrast to the rugged mountains of Scotland, but to be expected since much of this country is ocean floor that has been reclaimed from the sea.

We are guests of Jacobien Ubbink and her family. We met Jacobien in 2013 while walking the Camino. As with many of the pilgrims we met on that journey, we have maintained contact and share many precious memories.

Jacobien’s home is located in the town of Lelystad in central Netherlands. This area was reclaimed from the sea in the 1960s. Her home is approximately 10 feet below sea level and on the shore of a canal. We walked along that canal and came to a pumping station and ship lock. The pumping station is one of the network that hold the sea at bay and discharge water from the reclaimed land to the water side of the elaborate network of dykes. It was our good fortune to arrive at the lock in time to watch a power barge enter the lock and descend from the lakeside impoundment 18 feet to the level of the canal.

We continued our walk to a Marina. While enjoying drinks and some snacks, storm clouds rolled in and unleashed a torrent of hail and rain. After the rain subsided we began the 20 minute walk back to Jacobien’s home. Unfortunately, we did not make it before round two fell upon us. We arrived soaked to the bone! Were that all then we could chock the experience up as just a matter of great fun. However, the small backpack that I was wearing contained our iPads and it was not sufficiently waterproof. Later in the evening we discovered that Christine‘s iPad would not turn on at all, and mine was not acting “normal”. I am writing these notes on my iPhone and hoping that my iPad will be in working order later this evening. The iPad is my principal vehicle for transferring photographs from my camera to you. I am keeping my fingers crossed! If you read this and there are no pictures then you know that the news is not good.

Peace Everyone. Pete

PS. We learned today that Holland and the Netherlands are not interchangeable terms for the same nation. “Holland” is actually two provinces, North Holland and South Holland, one containing Amsterdam and the other containing Rotterdam. The Netherlands are comprised of 12 different provinces.

PPS. The iPad is working, sort of. Christine’s is “dead”. Hopefully things will dry out more and improve.

We crammed a lot into this fog free day. But first of all we are so thankful NOT to have the 100 degree Fahrenheit (38c) temps that folks are enduring back home! We awoke to 48f and enjoyed a high of 65. A great last day in Scotland.

We spent the morning touring the National Museum of Scotland. This ultramodern hands-on museum features thousands of displays in the natural, physical, and human sciences that are suited to all age groups. We gave it a couple of hours, it deserves a full day.

We could not linger because we had a “date” with a smart, talented, and very personable young lady from back home. “Mickey” Ferguson is the granddaughter of Sandra and Marvin Ferguson, and daughter of Mark Ferguson and his wife, Margaret Costanzo-Ferguson. They represent 4 attorneys of impeccable reputation and skill. It is no wonder that Mickey sees her future following a similar professional path. She is pursuing her undergraduate curriculum at the University of Edinburgh, a world class institution with fees that compare favorably to those of a US state university. She has completed 2 years of a 4 year program and yet retains the excitement of a new enrollee. The 2 hours we shared with her and her friend Ben seemed to pass in minutes. Her parents and grandparents have much to be proud of in this special young woman!

Lunch and goodbyes behind us we proceeded to Holyroodhouse Palace, the Royal residence of Great Britain’s Queen when in Scotland. This remarkable palace and grounds date back to the 12th Century when it was first founded as an Augustinian Abbey. The ruins of the Abbey can be seen adjacent to the Royal Gardens. We toured the Royal Apartments which have served the heads of state since the 1500’s. This is a place where history was made. Room after room displays priceless tapestries and works of art. The furnishings and decor are hundreds of years old and yet in impeccable condition. Regrettably, photography within the Palace is prohibited.

Our day concluded with dinner and a lengthy stroll along the restored Union Canal. This 54 mile waterway which opened in 1822 was once a principle artery of commerce between Edinburgh and Glasgow, linking Scotland’s east and west. It fell into disrepair and was closed to commercial traffic in 1933, officially closing in 1965. In a move akin to the “Rails to Trails” movement within the United States, the canal was restored and reopened in 2002. It now provides recreational opportunities for canal boats, canoes, kayakers, hikers, and bicyclists. Christine and I envision a time in the near future when we will voyage the considerable canal system of Great Britain.

(Nov. 20, 2018 Note: We have chartered a 61 foot “narrow boat” for 3 weeks in the Spring of 2019. We are the captain and crew. We will be joined for parts of that “adventure” on the canals of England by our friend Kris from the 2013 Camino, and friends Tom and Nanci who we met on the 2018 Camino.)

We fly to Amsterdam in the morning and thus will begin a new chapter to this journey.

Peace Everyone. Pete