“…Women and children dying in the streets
And we’re still at it in our own place
Still trying to reach the future through the past
Still trying to carve tomorrow from a tombstone…
…Up here we sacrifice our children
To feed the worn-out dreams of yesterday
And teach them dying will lead us into glory…”
(From The Island, a song by Paul Brady)
In 2018, Christine and I were in Belfast, Northern Ireland. We had heard about the (unadvertised) “Black Taxi tours“. We were able to book one through the clerk at our small hotel.
Arranging for the tour felt a bit “cloak and dagger”. The cab driver would be first name only and no fee was quoted, “Pay at the end what you think it was worth”. Cash only.
At the arranged time, a taxicab (not black) pulled up to the front of the hotel. The driver was pleasant, extending his hand in greeting, and ushered us into the rear of the cab. He provided us with his first name, but no other details.
For the better part of the afternoon, he drove us to many of the locations and sites relevant to “The Troubles”, along with a knowledgeable running commentary.
His narrative was matter of fact and dispassionate. This was in stark contrast to the subject matter which included terrorist bombings, assassinations and judicially sanctioned executions.
At the end of the tour we were emotionally drained. As I peeled off British Pound notes for payment he asked us, “Do you think that my loyalties rest with the Republic (of Ireland) or the Unionists (United Kingdom)?” Christine and I looked at each other and said that we didn’t know. “Then I have done my job.” He accepted our payment with gratitude and left.
Reflecting on the experience I am struck by the cab driver’s ability to express the facts of the cataclysm known as “The Troubles”, shorn of personal opinion and emotion.
I wonder if I could do the same for a foreign visitor in describing the current situation in our country.
Peace Everyone. Pete
PS. Upon further reflection I believe that on some issues I could follow the example of the cab driver. I believe that I could set out an even-handed narrative of the competing arguments regarding: Immigration, Border Security, Health Care, Wealth Distribution, Abortion, Education, the Federal Debt… to name a few. Not because I believe in the rightness of both sides, but because I have listened to both sides. Unlike the “Black Cab” driver, on some issues I feel morally bound not to allow an expression of neutrality be misunderstood as acceptance of that which I do not believe.
The images are of huge murals, a form of protest in Belfast.
“The Island” a song about “The Troubles” by Paul Brady
Dan Ryan says:
We had a similar Black Cab tour, including “Peace Gardens” and an IRA museum, as well as an explanation from the driver that he would never go to the Protestant side at night, because mayhem would ensue. I asked how you could tell a Catholic from a Protestant, and he said assured me that “you can tall”, and explained that “Some say that they (the Protestants – there was no doubt at all about this guy’s loyalties) have bigger noses.” It was in 2022, and it was completely out in the open – we booked our trip through Viator. It was a bleak but very educational experience, and I left with the feeling that if someone with a big nose bumped into our cab, war would break out.
Flash ahead to last summer. Robin and I are taking an Uber back to our hotel after a food tour booked through Viator, piloted by a quiet young man whose accent and appearance suggested he had immigrated from Africa. Robin and I were talking to each other about how we have had good luck with Viator tours and we have always had fun on them. As we were pulling up to the hotel, I corrected her – “Well, except for that Black Cab driver.” Robin looked at me with wide eyes, and it took me a moment to catch the source of her shocked look. When I realized what I had said, I tried to show I wasn’t referring to race by saying, “Yes, he was so aggressive,” which didn’t help, and by then we were on the curb. As he drove away, our kind young driver got a big tip from the awful racists he dropped off!
Pete Schloss says:
Dan, thank you for sharing these experiences!!
Liz S. says:
Ah Pete … I grew up hearing about “The Troubles.” So much so that on a trip to Ireland we had made our way to Belfast and I told Frank – I can’t stay here tonight. The murals were so tragic and the banners so telling – granted it was a bit of an overreaction on my part but I had to go back to where I “belonged.” I pray that the “Troubles” time is over and that hate doesn’t raise its ugly head again. I give you credit for your ability to be a “Black Cab Driver” – I don’t think I could be as neutral at the moment about current events. You have given me food for thought though. LOVE the Women’s mural and the woman in it!
Pete Schloss says:
Liz. I always appreciate and value your comments! I found the experience fascinating but in sort of a safe detached way. That is, until we went to the Dublin jail where in 1916 leaders of the uprising were lined up and summarily shot. That still haunts me.
Bill says:
It was a horrific time for Ireland. Like our civil war, it brought about change to the country but in many respects didn’t solve the underlying attitudes and resentments. Nativism rears its ugly head again and again. Rachael Madow’s book PREQUEL is a vivid illustration of how this country is again being lead toward fascism if we don’t stand up. Nativism and racism go hand in hand to allow otherwise democratic people to follow the cult leader. We have stood up before, I believe we will do it again. I’m thinking that Lincoln’s better angels are still around.
Peace, Bill
Pete Schloss says:
Thanks, Bill. I still hold Hope and optimism, just not as much as I did at one time.
Karen Hubble says:
For what it’s worth, I can’t be neutral on opinions, policies, and decisions that ultimately cause great harm and discredit to our nation. I can’t be neutral when it’s based on prejudice, naïveté, and falsehoods or injustice. I have compassion for those that are struggling, but it offers no solution and causes further harm.