Today we left Valenca, crossed the River Minho and thus left Portugal and entered Spain. Shortly afterward we exchanged greetings with a Portuguese Perigrina who remarked with a smile, “Remember, Spain is NOT Portugal!”

The Camino enters Spain in Tui, medieval rival to Valenca on the other side of the river. The ancient friction between these rival cities gave impetus to the investment of incredible amounts of time and money into the erection of massive fortifications necessary to insure survival.

The path took us to the Cathedral in Tui where over 14,000 Perigrinos began their walk to Santiago. We obtained stamps in our credentials at the Cathedral and then walked onward until we encountered the Convent of the Clarissa Nuns that dates to 1508. Once a thriving community, the cloister is residence for a fraction of the Sisters that its block long structure can accommodate. Both on the street and within the church one can see the design elements that are in place to separate the Sisters within from the temptations and corruption of civil life. Whatever once drew young women to the monastic life has long passed and this convent community, like so many others, may be destined for extinction. Within the church are prison like bars that define the confines of the community. Similarly, the windows without are barred. The convent “entrance” is an imposing door that is flanked by small carousel portals that allow for the passage of messages and supplies without personal contact. Think of a drive up bank teller drawer.

We covered 22km today, but temperatures were in the mid 60’s and the terrain was relatively flat. Most of the time we wandered pleasantly through woods and along streams.

At one point we encountered a monument erected hundreds of years ago to the memory of San Telmo, a Perigrino on the Camino who died of a fever at that spot in 1251. It is remarkable that he is remembered and venerated over 750 years later.

About an hour after passing the San Telmo monument we heard a cry of distress behind us. Turning, we saw a Perigrina lying face down on the path. We hurried to her aid. She was cut and badly shaken. Her sunglasses had shattered and there were immediate signs of bruising and swelling around her right eye. She was German and about 60 years old. An excessively long loop on one of her bootlaces had hooked on the other boot and caused her to fall face down on the pavement. Two Spanish women who lived nearby also rushed to her assistance. They called an ambulance which arrived shortly thereafter to take the Pilgrim to hospital. Hopefully her injuries are not serious, but it will take X-rays to determine that. Walking the Camino is not without risk.

We arrived in Porrino, showered, found beer and tapas, and by luck found our two Perigrina friends from Finland, Sirkka and Kirsti. The four of us shared dinner together and embraced at the end as if our paths would never cross again. Indeed, they may not. That is the way of the Camino.

Peace Everyone. Pete

For the third time on this trip, and the fifth time in less than a year, by pure luck we have arrived to witness a significant national or regional celebration. Today it is Portugal’s National Freedom Day.

On April 25 1974, the right wing fascist dictatorship which had held power in this country for nearly 50 years was overthrown in a near bloodless revolution. The military was ordered to suppress the civilian protests against the regime. After 4 people were killed the officers and soldiers refused to take further action, signaling their intentions by placing flowers in their weapons and wearing carnations. Thus the dictatorship was rendered powerless. Free elections were held the following year and Portugal not only became a democracy but also became the last nation to divest itself of its colonial holdings in Africa.

We spent the evening of April 24th with the residents of Ponte de Lima on the town square, swaying to the high energy music of the combined talents of Delfim Jr. and Ymperio. This very popular Portuguese ensemble performed for 3 continuous hours without any breaks! Our ears are still ringing.

Peace Everyone! Pete

Christine is fond of saying to other Perigrinos “Listen to your body”. She will likely take her own advice tomorrow. Temperatures reached a hot and sunny 26c today, and are predicted to hit 28c tomorrow. This was tough on her, especially since we are in a hilly section with little shade.

The small lizards that we see scurrying up ancient rock walls love this, but we are mammals and not lizards. Chris will likely transport the 18km tomorrow to Ponte de Lima and find accommodations for us in that ancient river community while I walk to join her. The forecast for the remainder of the week looks to be more moderate. We will keep our fingers crossed.

We had hoped to overnight at a the very popular Albergue Fernando, however the operative word, “popular” meant that it was booked solid. We then secured a nearby option, Quinta Cancela, a charming villa and grounds, with accommodating staff. Our room is part of a 200+ year old structure with solid rock walls that are 2 feet thick. Our room is private, ensuite, includes breakfast, and at 80 euros would break most “pilgrim budgets”. I’m not saying that it isn’t worth it, just that we like to shoot for a lower price point on the Camino.

I have done our laundry and I am typing this note while waiting for our things to line dry. Over the last few years I have read that merino wool underclothes are naturally antimicrobial and thus “odor neutral”. I had been a skeptic, but not any more. Even socks smell fresh after an overnight airing, ready for another hard day on the trail.

Dinner was a short walk into town to a restaurant that featured local favorites. We like Portuguese cuisine… Christine the land variety and me the stuff that swims. We were joined by Irene and Manuala, Perigrinas from Switzerland. Irene spoke some Spanish which was helpful in communicating with our restaurant host, Edwardo, who spoke no English. Here I was at table with 3 lovely women. Edwardo projected a strong sense of admiration for me. He pantomimed “Amigo!” to me, and brought me a snifter of his best house brandy. A lengthy “conversation” proceeded where Edwardo did all the talking and we did our best to hang on and understand. He is 26 days younger than me and is officially of retirement age in 4 months. Unfortunately, his two children,a geologist son and chemist daughter, are not interested in taking over the family restaurant. He is not sure what to do, so for the time being he will continue to work. There was an overtone of sadness to Edwardo’s account. Nevertheless, it did not detract from an incredible meal enjoyed in good company. Edwardo made the meal, and we made memories!

Peace Everyone! Pete

Today we elected to walk a short 12 km and overnight in Barcelos. We had heard that this was a popular destination for the Portuguese, but we did not expect to arrive on the first day of a week long cultural festival… think Mardi Gras! Colorfully lit streets and buildings, a large carnival with all the typical rides, games of skill ready to suck the euros out of your pocket, and even a House of Horrors!

…and then there were the food vendors! Broiled meats served dripping in their juices on bread made fresh before your eyes in open fire ovens. INCREDIBLE, and it took only 10 euros to buy two of those huge gut bombs and wash them down with beer and wine. Our multi-linguistic finger pointing served us well.

The walk to Barcelos was a story in itself. Ancient wooded paths on 2,000 year old Roman trails. Hilly and at times a bit precarious, but the trekking poles provide a margin of balance and safety for 60+ year old legs.

Barcelos is the site of one of Portugal’s most beloved legends from which the iconic multi-colored Rooster, a symbol of the country, derives.

As we walked it occurred to me that many Americans may have a misconception about the “Old World” countries in general and Portugal in particular. I tend to take pictures of the verdant landscapes, agrarian vistas, and old architecture. However, there is another side to Portugal. It is a very modern and prosperous nation. There is excellent universal health care, an affordable world class education system, and even the moderately sized cities have well developed and well utilized public transit. We have walked through neighborhoods where there are row upon row of unique custom built homes whose price tags must me north of a million euros. Public high speed WiFi is readily available, more so than in the States. Violent crime is a rarity. With a population of 10.3 million, Portugal has approximately half the number of homicides in its entire country as metropolitan Kansas City with a population of about 1 million!

We continue to find the people of this nation to be kind, friendly, and eager to help us wandering Perigrinos.

Peace Everyone! Pete

PS. We are spending the night in the 3 star Hotel Dom Nuno. 45 euros for our ensuite room, including breakfast. We will splurge tomorrow on a luxury accommodation in a countryside resort.