To give some context to our visit and tour of the Sagrada Familia and my pictures from yesterday, I am borrowing from and updating an earlier post.

The Sagrada Familia (Holy Family) is a monumental church begun in 1882 but not to be completed within the lifetime of its master architect, Antoni Gaudi who quipped, “My Client is not in a hurry!”. Throughout its history it has attracted awe, criticism, and in recent years people… throngs of people. It is now one of the top 3 most visited sites in Europe. Reservations are needed to visit this privately funded marvel.

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The project originated in the hands of another architect who envisioned a fairly standard church dedicated to the Holy Family. That architect resigned after only a year. Antoni Gaudi was then employed and turned the church’s concept on its head. His talents and passions were unique. He was above all a gifted architect, but he was also an artist, naturalist, inventor, and held a deep spiritual dedication to Jesus, Mary, and Joseph. Gaudi dedicated 43 years of his life to the project, the last 13 being his exclusive work. He sought to employ the shapes of nature into his work, inventing techniques and tools that had not previously existed. Gaudi acknowledged that future architects and technologies would be employed long after his death and he sought to inspire them with his vision. Thus, he proceeded with construction in phases, working first on the completion of the Nativity façade. He believed that completed segments would guarantee the project’s future and draw the curious to see “what they are doing in Barcelona”. He only lived to see the completion of the façade and one tower, but his predictions proved accurate.

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Gaudi’s genius becomes immediately apparent as one tries to comprehend the mind that conceived of this otherworldly creation. Gaudi drew inspiration from nature. Thus, his preferred building elements were curves, ellipses, and ovals.

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He shunned the common design features of straight lines, squares and rectangles. In Gaudi’s day the computer tools to design with his favored elements did not exist, so he improvised. Tying hundreds of strings from a ceiling and joining them with small bags of sand he found that gravity drew the strings into natural parabolic curves. Using mirrors on the floor he was able to draw from the reflected images into his designs.

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The church, now declared a Basilica, will feature 18 different spires. The central spire, representing Christ, will be 560 feet tall at completion. Entry into the Basilica is breathtaking. Instead of straight columns supporting a ceiling, the supports mimic trees ascending to a distant forest canopy. Stonework is kaleidoscopic in both color and presentation.

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The exterior features 3 principle facades. At our visit in 2013 the Nativity and Passion facades, at opposite sides of the church, were starkly different. The stonework on the Nativity side is organic and “flows” with the lifelike Biblical images. In contrast, the Passion facade is stark, angular, and almost painful to behold.

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There has been much progress over the 5 years since our last visit, and a small technical revolution in that time. The current architects are now employing 3D printers for modeling design elements.

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Individual stones are precisely cut off-site and then assembled on-site, in Lego like fashion. The goal is to complete the entire facility on the 100 year anniversary of Gaudi’s death in 2026.

Peace Everyone. Pete

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When we walked the Camino in 2013 the last day in Santiago was littered with chance meetings with friends from that journey. That experience is again playing out in Barcelona with chance encounters from our Atlantic passage. We met a number of ship acquaintances, paramount being Mart and Jean (again!) and then Mary and Gary who had the cabin next to ours. We shared a very good Tapas lunch with them after we had toured the interior of the Sagrada Familia.

I have retained over 60 pictures from today. I will exhibit a few here that give just a taste of the magnificence of this house of worship. Rather than engage in a lengthy narrative, I will let the pictures speak more eloquently than I can. Besides, it is nearly midnight as I type this out.

This evening we met with one of our AFS exchange student “children”, Neus, her 8 year old daughter, and her brother James, who had also been an exchange student, but in Baltimore MD. Neus took us on a walk along the stunning beachfront area known as Barceloneta. Good fortune won out and the rains held off until we concluded a late dinner at one of James’ favorite restaurants. Sadly, Neus’ 10 year old daughter wasn’t feeling well so she and her father could not join us.

Tomorrow we will sleep in a bit, and then return to wandering the area of Las Ramblas, the old city, and Cathedral. Perhaps we will take in a museum or two, a Gaudi site, and certainly tapas, vino tinto, and an Estrella Damm or two in this world class destination.

Peace Everyone! Pete

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We have considered that this journey unfolds in distinct “chapters”. Puerto Rico was first, the Atlantic crossing second and now Barcelona.

It should have come as no surprise that the excellence of the Viking Cruise staff would extend to marshaling the timely departure of 900 passengers and their luggage. No chaos, not even organized chaos, just organized. We were off the vessel at 9am, our suitcase in the hands of the shipping agent to the USA, and in a taxi to our B&B within 15 minutes. 20 minutes later we were being given a tour of our room and facilities at Barcelona B&B.

This is a wonderfully quaint place brimming with Old World charm. Our hosts, Telma and Kiku who is recently back from walking the Camino, graciously gave us early access to our room and a quick rundown of recommended sites and dining.

After we settled in we walked a few blocks to the Sagrada Familia. We have been curious to see what construction progress has been made since 2013. The first of the next pictures is from 2013, the rest from today. The optimists believe it will be completed in 2025. I won’t be holding my breath… construction began over 135 years ago in 1882!

We spent a good hour walking the perimeter and marveling at this unconventional Basilica. Tomorrow we are scheduled to tour the interior and ascend one of the completed towers.

We then walked to and down Las Ramblas, a pedestrian parkway and major shopping/tourist venue. This was the site of a tragic act of terrorism in August 2017 where a van ploughing through people, killing 13 and injuring 130 others. There is an obvious police presence today that may be in reaction to the August incident or because of the political unrest over the Catalonia secessionist movement.

Our afternoon wandering took us to the Cathedral where we were surprised to meet Mart and Jean, Canadian friends from our Atlantic passage.

One shortcoming of the efficient discharge of passengers this morning was the lack of opportunity to say proper goodbyes to the friends we had made during the crossing. We hope to reconnect with a number of these good folk in the future, but for today we are grateful for the chance meeting that allowed is to share a cafe and reflections on the journey with our Canadian friends. BTW, the cafe served Pabst Blue Ribbon Beer as one of its honored import beverages. I like Pabst but I’m sticking with Estrella Damm.

After a proper and heartfelt farewell to Mart and Jean we attended a late Mass at the Cathedral and adjourned to one of Telma’s recommended restaurants for dinner. The evening meal in Spain is enjoyed much later than in the States. The restaurant was filled to capacity with no end in sight at 9pm. Our meal was excellent and reasonably priced. It consisted of a huge salad of fresh vegetables, cheeses, and cold meats. The main courses were sausage and beans, roast chicken with sides, and sliced baguette drizzled with olive oil and spices. Beer, wine, and the local version of Limoncello completed the feast, leaving our billfolds only 35 euros lighter (about $42.00)… not bad for the center of the second largest city in Spain.

Tomorrow evening we will join one of our AFS “children” and her family for dinner by the sea. Neus was an exchange student in Excelsior Springs Missouri in the mid 1990’s. We have kept in touch over the years and are excited to see her once again in her native city. Until tomorrow…

Peace Everyone! Pete

What an exceptional place to dedicate our final cruise day! Valencia is a city of 800,000, founded by the Romans in the Second Century BCE. It started as a Roman Colony for retired soldiers thus the origins of its Latin name, a place for the valorous. This is the 3rd largest city in Spain after Madrid and Barcelona, and the 5th busiest cargo seaport in Europe and busiest on the Mediterranean.

Although this is our first visit to the city it is certainly our intention not to be the last. It is an incredibly beautiful, clean, and modern place that has done a marvelous job of merging the old city with the new. Until the mid-19th Century the old city was surrounded by a 4 kilometer long fortress wall and massive gated entrances. We saw 2 of the 12 gates, one standing nearly 100 feet tall and pockmarked by shells from Napoleon Bonaparte’s canons in the early 1,800’s.

The wall was removed in the 1,850’s to make room for urban expansion. Nevertheless, the old city retains its character in ancient buildings, narrow streets, and wonderful plazas. The new city that surrounds it has ultramodern architecture a first rate subway system and every attraction that cities many times its size offer.

Our luck was evident today as the weather was superb and it was the provincial holiday of the feast os St. Vincent, there patron saint. Most businesses were closed, but the streets were full of citizens decked out in their classic festive attire.

We visited the Cathedral Metropolitan, secured yet another set of sellos for our Pilgrim’s Credentials, and then ascended the incredibly steep and narrow spiral staircase to the top of its bell tower, nearly 200 feet high. I am totally blown away that Christine tackled this, given her historic avoidance of heights and confined spaces! This church is the site of the beautiful Chapel of the Holy Grail.

The afternoon was capped with a meal of tapas, Paella Valencia (rice with chicken, rabbit, and vegetables), all washed down with a cold Estrella Galicia… the worlds best beer (because it was the one in my hand!}. Christine chose her favorite, vino tinto (red wine). In the course of dining we were joined by cruise friends Mary and Gary, who have the neighboring stateroom and hail from the southwest side of Chicago, not far from where I grew up. We plan on visiting them the next time we are in the area. We will join them again this evening for our last shipboard dinner.

Peace Everyone! Pete

Today we packed. Not an easy task as we are shipping about 45 pounds of clothing and accessories back to the States when we land Tuesday in Barcelona. What is left to us for the next ten weeks is Christine’s backpack (16 pounds), and mine (18 pounds)… essentials only.

This was also a day to express appreciation and farewell to many of the crew and performers with whom we have developed a personal connection. A clear advantage to a small cruise ship is that in 15 days one really gets to know and be known. Thus, there is a mist of sadness that covers the smiles. We tour Valencia tomorrow, a new destination for us which I hope to then share with you. In the meantime, here are some random pictures of today and the place we temporarily embraced as “home”.

 

Peace Everyone. Pete

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