September 12th. Christine and I had enjoyed a wonderful day and afternoon in Reine Norway. Come evening I began to experience a nagging discomfort in my lower left back and abdomen. Within 20 minutes I felt forced to lie down in our cabin. Within an hour the pain was excruciating. I was pale, trembling, and sweat had soaked through my clothes.

We sought out the ship nurse. While I reclined in his small infirmary the pain moderated from an “8” to a “6”. His concern and Christine’s were palpable, but I felt that perhaps the worst was over. Vitals were good and we returned to our cabin.

An hour later and the pain had fired up again, worse than before.

The ship’s medical professional and an assistant were summoned. He was in direct contact with the ship’s captain and a shoreside doctor. A joint decision was made to make an emergency detour to the nearest port and arrange for ambulance transport to the nearest hospital. Two injections of morphine were administered.

We were over an hour away from port. Christine and the assistant packed our bags. A taxi was arranged to arrive at port to transport Christine and our luggage. The ambulance transport from port to the hospital would take another hour. A third injection of morphine was given.

I arrived at the small local hospital around midnight. I was met by three nurses and a doctor. Vitals and tests ruled out cardiac and infection issues. Further tests determined that I suffered from a kidney stone. A first level of treatment and watchful waiting brought relief. The hospital staff arranged for a taxi and a late night hotel near the town dock. I was discharged at 3am with prescriptions for 4 medicines. Christine was asked to pay the hospital and doctor bill… $30. The taxi from the port to the hospital had cost $300. Ambulance cost is unknown.

The hotel, normally not open at that hour, was emergency staffed by a kind and accommodating lady. Our room was charged at the lowest rate she could arrange, $130. We got only three hours of sleep as we had to be up early to try and catch an 8am fast passenger ferry to Tromso, hopefully to be allowed to reboard our ship. We were not expected back.

We made it. I was greeted like Lazarus returned from the dead.

I am better, not 100 percent, but better. We continue on, but with an undercurrent of anxiety as we cross open ocean these next two days.

Peace Everyone. Pete.

PS. Filling the four prescriptions cost $32.

This is from our fourth day aboard ship and third port of call, Friday September 12.

Reine is a remote fishing village founded in 1743. Its population numbers fewer than 300. 

.
.
Mount Reinebringen

After fishing, tourism is next most important to its economy. The chief draw is the isolation and remarkable scenery. 

.
Traditional fishing boats, still in use.
Over winter fish are hung on these racks that are located throughout the town. They then “freeze dry”.
.

Mount Reinebringen (altitude 1,470 ft) towers above the village and harbor.

.
.
.

The view of the village from atop the mountain is one of the most photographed landscapes in all of Norway. 

I did not climb the mountain! This is a publicly available image from Wikipedia.

Once considered a very difficult climb, 2,000 steps were installed on the mountain in 2019 making the summit accessible to non-technical climbers.

Some other images from our visit:

.
.
.
.
.
A motel with cabins is located in the village
The rear view of the motel cabins
48 years married, 51 years together… and counting.
.
Notice the variety of roofs.
Scenes from the village cemetery by the sea.
Three graves. Two featuring bronze death masks and the third, a child with her full form sculpted bronze image.
A very old family plot
A memorial to sailors and fishermen lost at sea
.
.
.
.

Peace Everyone. Pete

PS. In the afternoon I joined a shipboard activity; a tasting of some local beers. Prost!!

.
.
.

PPS. Later that evening I encountered difficulties which will explain the delay in making this post. I will share details in a later update.

It’s been approximately 30 years since I transitioned from film to digital photography. Those who are not of that era cannot appreciate how difficult it was to decide which pictures to take and which not to.

The largest regular film rolls took 36 pictures. In my childhood my dad used a Mercury “half frame” camera that took 72 images per roll by exposing only half of the 35mm width each time. It was ok for slides, but not for prints.

There was a cost for the film, and then the greater cost of processing the film. My 35 mm Minolta SLR was an excellent camera. I typically limited myself to two rolls of film a day (72 pictures) while traveling. If memory serves me correctly, two rolls would have cost approximately $20 for the film and processing. In those days $20 would have paid for a nice evening out, dinner and a movie for a young couple.

My subject matter selection and photo execution were rarely perfect. However, it was not until the pictures were returned from processing that this became apparent. Since that usually took over a week the opportunity to retake a picture did not exist.

That brings me generally to this trip and today in particular. I probably took over 150 pictures today. The hardest part was figuring out which ones to share with you. At every turn there was a new “magnificent” that I thought mighty eclipse the preceding “spectacular”. Well, what you don’t see you don’t get!

Here are my selections of the day:

We were up early, called to the top deck to see the famous “Seven Sisters”, formation of seven mountain tops along the coast. The highest of these is 3000 feet above sea level. We were told an experienced hiker could cross the seven mountains in slightly less than 24 hours.
.
.
.
.
The wind started kicking up. Predicted wind forces have necessitated a change in our itinerary. We will be arriving at a different port of call north of the Arctic Circle.
Along the coastline farms in small fishing villages were located at the base of the mountains.
.
We could actually smell the cows!
This small fishing village is located less than a mile south of the Arctic Circle.
The globe marks the Arctic Circle. Our captain blew the ships horn long and loud as she navigated the ship close to the landmark and across the imaginary line.
.
.
.
After passing the Arctic circle passengers assembled for a ceremony to satisfy the Sea Troll and beg a safe passage.
The Sea Troll arrived on deck!
I’m in line to offer my sacrifice to the Troll…
…a huge ladle of water and ice poured down my back!
A shot of aquavit rewarms the blood!
.
It’s Christine’s turn…
… she pretends to drink the aquavit, but hands it to me.
Afterwards we had lunch. Mine is a “Rudolph the Red Nose Reindeer” salad.

Peace Everyone. Pete

By persevering through our cold water baths, we have satisfied the sacrifice demanded by the Sea Troll.

We have reached our first port of the call, Andalsnes, located along Isfjord at the end of Romsdalfjord.

It is a small town of about 2000 people. The size of our ship, approximately 400 passengers, allows for docking in the heart of this picturesque coastal town.

We have just passed the other gondola. Our ship is seen below in the distance.

During World War II, this peaceful fishing village was completely destroyed. It has since been completely rebuilt as a modern municipality and is situated in a place of remarkable natural beauty.

First, a few images of our accommodations.

The rooms on the ship, with the exception of a few suites, are small (about 12 x 18 feet), but efficient in their design. 
The room and bathroom are smaller than they appears in these image.
.

We were in port from 8 AM until 2 PM.

My breakfast. Service is buffet style, except in the upscale restaurant. All beverages are included, including wine, beer, and select cocktails.

Christine and I walked to the nearby Romsdal Gondola and for $30 each ascended 2000 feet to the mountain overlooking the town.

Christine shared a brief walk with me and then retired to the nearby café.

.
.
.

I continued on trails around the mountain top before rejoining her for a coffee and return to the ship.

The vistas were stunning… even otherworldly!

.
.
.
.
.

Peace Everyone. Pete

Tomorrow we cross the Arctic Circle.

Some museums are primarily entertaining while others stir deeper emotions. Most, if not all museums are intended to inform and educate. This post focuses on two exhibits we visited in Bergen, the first being of the former variety (entertaining) and the second of the latter (emotional).

Both informed and educated. Unfortunately, it is impossible for me to convey fully their messages. Perhaps this post will encourage you to dig deeper on your own through available Internet resources.

From the very beginning, the Bergen Troll Museum was FUN!

.
.

We expected that, but we did not expect to turn into Trolls!

Here we are before…
… and here we are after!

We also did not expect the myths and legends surrounding Trolls to be so rich in depth and history. The Troll stories intertwine religion, heroism, valor, and the supernatural. Each of these few selected images was accompanied in the museum by a detailed account. Use your imagination and you probably won’t be far off.

The world and kingdom of Trolls 
A video feed which displays scores of images in nature that Norwegians have long believed to be Trolls looking out upon them.
A huge Mountain Troll
Peer Gynt at the Hall of the Mountain King (Troll).
“Peer Gynt refers to the classic 5 Act dramatic poem by Norwegian playwright Henrik Ibsen in 1867. It tells the epic story of Peer Gynt, a braggart and adventurer who flees his homeland for a life of self-indulgence and fantasy, only to ultimately face the question of his true self. The play is also famous for the accompanying music composed by Edvard Grieg in 1875, which includes the well-known pieces “Morning Mood” and “In the Hall of the Mountain King”
A Winter Troll who looks suspiciously like one of Santa’s elves or perhaps even Santa Claus.
A sea temptress calling sailors to their deaths.
A Troll maiden who’s music charmed a young shepherd. She was beautiful and promised to marry him if he kept their meeting and betrothal a secret for one year. He broke his promise and he thus lost his lover and she her beauty.
The Queen of the Trolls who stole my heart.

In every generation, there are a few noteworthy individuals who dedicate their entire life to a passion. Some are lucky enough to achieve recognition during their lifetime others are lost to the dark curtain of time. Ragna Breivik (1891-1965} falls somewhere in the middle. Her achievements in tapestry design and execution were known nationally and internationally. However, full appreciation of her extraordinary skill, even genius, is still emerging.

.
.
.
.
.

In all there were 10 panels, each measuring approximately 10 feet wide and 5 feet high. I could have spent the entire day taking them in.

Here are a few additional moments from our time in Bergen.

Dinner at the top of the mountain.
.
Bergen below at sunset.
1966
Early 1950’s Cadillac Eldorado
One of hundreds of phone booths throughout Norway that are no longer in use. These are federally protected as culturally significant. This one has been repurposed as a lending library. 

I am typing these words as we sail out of port to destinations north.

.
A lighthouse.
.

Peace Everyone. Pete