Dear Christine and Renee’.
Today was a Goldilocks day: Not too hot, not too cold, not too far, not too short, not too sunny, not too cloudy. It was just right.
For vast stretches of the walk today we could see lines of pilgrims ahead and behind us.
This was mostly farmland with no fountains or significant rest spots in between the start and finish of the day.
One exception was a man who had set up a stand for refreshments, accepting donations for his offerings.
Another exception was walking into the town which had been developed as a golf resort community. When we were here in 2013 it was largely vacant… a ghost town. Today there were a few golfers, but most of the buildings were still uninhabited.
Our Polish friends have gone ahead, Kasia to Burgos, where she will be resting her tendinitis, and Witek to the next town beyond us.
We walked much of a day with a very friendly young Spanish woman, Rocío.
She has spent the last 8 years working in Yorkshire, England, and thus speaks good English. She was a delight!.
Our rooms for the night are courtesy of a community of Cisterciense Nuns.
The simple but spotless room was likely an accommodation for two sisters in the past. A crucifix looks over us from above the beds.The facility has been converted to a simple pilgrims hotel. Our room with dinner and breakfast totaled €100. Dinner is tonight after Mass in the Cathedral.
Britton and I toured the Cathedral, the Cathedral, Museum, and Crypt where Santo Domingo is laid to rest.
Most fascinating to us was the Bell Tower which is the tallest in the province, the tower clock which is the oldest working one in the province, and the magnificent bells which overlook the city.
We were standing under the bells when they tolled 5 o’clock.
My ears are still ringing and it’s not just tinnitus!
There is a minor controversy on the Camino. It has long been the case that a pilgrim walking the last 100 km is entitled to Compostela, as is a bicyclist or horseman who ride the last 200 km. These days electric bicycles have become very popular.
I estimate that half of the bicycles we see proceeding to Santiago with packs are electrically assisted.
Should they be entitled to Compostela? Therein lies the controversy. Britton’s thoughts, of which I tend to agree, are that a bicycle (electric or not) is not different than a horse which transports the rider. He votes that the e-bikes should qualify.
Britton and I have begun transporting our packs each day. In my case it is a matter of preservation given the pain in my back each morning. With Britton it is just a matter of fairness on my part.
As we near Burgos and our transport to Leon I am becoming sensitive to another controversy, what qualifies as a “real pilgrim“. Perhaps it is my imagination, but I think that I have sensed some silent disapproval from a pilgrim here and there.
Do you remember “Pat“ from New York who in 2013 voiced that a “real pilgrim“ does not transport their pack and walks every step of the way. About halfway to Santiago we observed her transporting by taxi cab! Perhaps that was a bit of karma.
Thank you for arranging the appointments with the orthopedic physician, massage therapist, and Chiropractor the day after our return. I hope that there is something that can be done to alleviate this difficulty. 72 years and my family genetics are definitely catching up to me.
Tomorrow is a long day, but the weather looks to still favor us. I understand that Kansas City is suffering under a terrible heat wave. Please stay cool and take good care of yourselves.
Love you both. Peace. Dad
The view from our room tonight:
