The weather today was nothing short of spectacular! It was a perfect day to enjoy a banquet of vistas… served from atop Blarney Castle, the verdant gardens surrounding it, and the byways of County Cork and Country Kerry.

Briefly, the current Blarney Castle dates to the early 1400’s, but stands atop older fortifications that date back to at least the 1200’s. It is the home of the renowned “Blarney Stone”. The Stone is believed to confirm upon those who kiss it the gift of an eloquent tongue or gilded flattery. Blarney is the expression of the “varnished truth”, whereas baloney is merely speaking an “unvarnished lie”.

As we approached the castle a piper played along the path. Christine struck up a conversation with him and at her request he played, as if for her ears only, Amazing Grace. I know that Christine savored each note in tribute to her family members who have passed, and those who struggle.

In times past kissing the stone involved considerable risk. The stone is at the base of a parapet nearly 90 feet above ground. One had to dangle upside down, held by ones feet, to reach the stone. In more recent times bars have been installed to prevent a headlong plunge to one’s death. However kissing the stone still requires an iron will and contortionist’s back. It also requires an accent of over 150 uneven steps through narrow serpentine passages.

In spite of her dislike of heights and closed spaces, Christine proved herself to be of stout resolve and equal to the task.

 

With Blarney Castle behind us we toured the countryside enroute to the town of Killarney. Since words will not do the day justice I will rely upon my camera to convey a sense of our experiences.

The day ended two floors below our room in Murphy’s Pub. The band played traditional Irish classics. Huw was really in his element as he sang right along at our table, knowing each line and verse by heart.

Sadly, it looks like Ireland is returning to its usual weather tomorrow. As one gentleman told us, “The difference between winter and summer here in Ireland is that the rain is warmer in the summer.”

Peace Everyone. Pete

Today opens with a couple of luxuries that are new to us on this Journey. We will be traveling for the next 5 days by car, and all of the planning has been done by our Welch friends Huw and Nina. I don’t realize how there is a certain stress that becomes accepted as a part of each day until it is not there. Responsibility for the day-to-day has not been a big thing, but it is a cumulative thing. It is wonderful to have that off of my shoulders for a few days.

That having been said, we dodged a travel “bullet” yesterday. The portion of our trip from Amsterdam to Oslo was largely without details. We had narrowed it to 17 days and we knew that it would include visits to Amsterdam, Brussels, Slovakia, Berlin, and Oslo. However, no travel details or arrangements had been made. I figured that it was about time since we had made the flight arrangements from Edinburgh to Amsterdam a few days earlier. Our plan has always been to utilize trains and night sleeper cars as much as possible. My initial check 2 days ago indicated that the sleeper cars were all taken. Our Dutch friend, Jacobien, forwarded me a link to the office of Netherlands Rail. A 30 minute telephone call with an extraordinarily helpful representative resulted in confirmed train and sleeper car reservations from Brussels Belgium to Bratislava Slovakia and then later overnight travel from Bratislava to Berlin. The beauty of these arrangements is that we can spend the day in one location, board the train that evening and then “magically awake” at the new destination. It is a wonderful way to travel that I fear is dying out. Airports and air travel are expedient but dehumanizing.

Our friendship with Huw and Nina dates to the year 2000, but we did not actually meet them in person until 5 years later. How our friendship began and the saga of our time with them in 2005 is quite remarkable, but I will reserve it for another day.

Our “touristing” began today with a visit to the Viking artifacts held in the 11th Century Waterford stronghold known as Reginald’s Tower. This 54 foot high stone keep was once a key part of Waterford’s defensive perimeter. It and small portions of the city wall are all that remain of the structure initially created by the Vikings. Excavations have unearthed relics dating back a thousand years, including a remarkably intricate gold and silver broach.

Next we visited the production facilities of the Waterford Crystal Company. If it had not been for the interest of my three companions I would have skipped this tour… and it would have been my loss. The tour was spectacular and informative.

Waterford’s roots began here in in 1783. The company closed in 1851, and then reopened in 1947. It continues today with its custom and clear crystal production in the heart of the city it was named after. Waterford creates over 750 tons of crystal pieces annually. It employs artisans who endure apprenticeships of 5 years in one of four skills: Mould making, Glass blowing, sketching, and engraving. More years are required to achieve the status of a Master. In the company’s history only one person achieved that status in all four disciplines. These craftspeople typically remain with the company for well over 30 years.

We witnessed all the stages of the creation of these amazing pieces except for the final step where the pieces undergo acid washing.

Waterford Crystal custom pieces are blown into hand carved wood molds that have a maximum of 6 uses. Standard pieces are blown into cast iron molds that can be used over 60 years.

We watched as the engravers patiently and painstakingly worked the pieces. In the process I developed a real appreciation for the effort and skill required to make Waterford Crystal.

We next visited Cobh Ireland, the final port of call for the RMS Titanic before it proceeded across the Atlantic only to strike an iceberg and sink on April 15, 1912. 123 passengers boarded the Titanic here. The “bones” of the original tender dock remain as a haunting reminder of the fate that awaited those souls. Our visit included accurate recreations of 1st and 3rd class staterooms. Our tickets included the assignment of a passenger identity. Of the four of us, all were “rescued” except Huw. My identity was that of John Kennedy, no relationship to the US President of that name.

The evening concluded at a truly exceptional pub. I don’t think I will tire of the pairing of Guinness and good Irish pub food.

We continue to find the good folks of Ireland to be among the friendliest that we have ever encountered in our travels. Tomorrow we proceed to Blarney Castle, home of the Blarney Stone.

Peace Everyone. Pete

First the outline, then the details:

1. Walked to and toured the Guinness Brewery. Had a Guinness.

2. Walked to and made reservations to tour the Kilmainham Gaol.

3. Taxied to and toured Trinity College, viewed the Book of Kells and the Long Hall.

4. Taxied back to and toured the Kilmainham Gaol.

5. Walked to the Brazen Head Pub, dined and had a Guinness.

6. Walked to the The Church Bar & Restaurant, had a Teelings Single Malt Irish Whiskey.

7. Walked back to hotel. Total walking distance for the day 13.6 km.

The Guinness brewery tour was a technological tour de force. A few images will give some insight into this. Founded by Arthur Guinness in 1759, he had such certainty as to his prospects for success that he signed a 9,000 year lease on 4 acres to establish his brewery. The annual rent was set at 45 Pounds Sterling, a lot of money in the day, but not so much 250 years later! Guinness grew to become the largest brewery in the world. While he was making beer, lots of it, his wife Olivia was making babies, lots of them… 21 in all, though only 10 survived to adulthood which was typical of the era.

Trinity College has an enrollment of 16,000 and ranks ranks among the top 100 universities in the world. It was founded in the 1500’s and has been the keeper of the renowned Book of Kells since the 1600’s. The Book of Kells is a calligraphy transcription of the four gospels, written on calf hide vellum and is believed to date to the early 800’s. It is considered one of Ireland’s most prized treasures. Photos of it are not permitted, but I have included one that is available online.

Trinity College is also known for its Long Room library which is over 200 feet and is roofed by Europe’s largest barrel vault ceiling. This Old Library houses over 200,000 precious books which are arranged by size, largest down low and smallest up high, for reasons associated with the distribution of weight, not knowledge.

Also on display is the Brian Boru Harp, one of the 3 oldest in the world and the only one in Ireland. It dates to the 1300’s and is the symbol of the Irish Republic. However, since Guinness first obtained a copyright on the image before Ireland, The Republic had to reverse the symbol for its own use.

The Kilmainham Gaol is a grim place. It was founded in 1796 and expanded in the 19th Century. It housed offenders convicted of both petty and capital offenses, some offenders as young as 5 years old. It was a place for public executions (hanging) for the five capital offenses of murder, rape, treason, theft, and piracy. Hanging occurred above the entry to the prison. Although public executions ended in 1921, capital punishment was not abolished in Ireland until 1990. The Gaol was retired from use in 1924. Its restoration as a museum is to preserve the memory of the patriots and their cause that ended British rule over most of Ireland.

The Gaol has become the face of Ireland’s struggle for independence from Great Britain. It was here that the architects of the 1916 uprising were housed and then executed by firing squad within days of their surrender. The longest of their trials lasted 19 minutes. The treatment of these rebels brought the people of Ireland together for the cause of independence. However religious divisions and the compromise which allowed Great Britain to retain Northern Ireland continue to simmer as divisive with the people of the Island. The colors of the flag of The Republic reflect an effort to mend the differences, Green for Catholic Ireland, Orange for Protestant Ireland (referring to the conquest by William of Orange) and the White of Peace between them.

A modern controversy is on the minds of the people of Ireland as they prepare to go to the poles on May 25th to decide if the Constitution should be amended to allow abortion. Current poling indicates a very close race, with incredible intensity and emotion invested by those on both sides of the question. Stay tuned.

In the meantime there is nothing quite as nice as a classic Irish Pub!

We leave by train in the morning for Waterford Ireland where we will meet dear friends Huw and Nina Thomas of Wales. We will tour with them for the next 5 days.

Peace Everyone. Pete

The efficiency with which Santiago Spain became part of our past and Dublin Ireland became our present was almost dizzying. Taxi from our hotel to the ultramodern airport, 2 hour Aer Lingus flight to Dublin’s ultramodern airport and taxi to our hotel. The only (brief) glitch was at Ireland’s passport control where it seems there was no record of us having left the States and arrived in Europe. Apparently, since we arrived by boat and did not have a followup itinerary, we fell through the immigration cracks. At least on paper we were like refugee “illegal”… boat people!

It didn’t help when the Immigration Agent asked how long we intended to stay and I said “About 2 weeks”. She REALLY didn’t like the “about” part. It never occurred to me that travel is usually a precise thing with a set beginning and end. Our lack of itinerary is an anomaly, and boarder agents become on guard in the face of anomalies. A little explanation and Christine’s disarming smile resolved matters. A stamp in the passport and we were on our way.

We miss walking! After we put our things into our clean and serviceable, but not very elegant room (Dublin is expensive, especially in the heart of the old town. Our room is a very reasonable 90 euros a night), we went walking. 30 minutes later there loomed at the end of the street the House of Jamison Irish Whiskey!

Providence served us up a real treat. Not 2 hours on the Emerald Isle and I was touring and tasting one of Ireland’s great delights. We learned the Distillery’s history which dates to 1780, and it’s dedication to the employees and community. There were the rough spots of 2 world wars, the Easter Rising Insurrection of 1916 where 1,200 men and women openly revolted against England and the roof of the distillery was used as a sniper’s nest, and of course American Prohibition.

The most amazing “tidbit” of information had to do with the “Angel’s share”, that portion of aging spirits that evaporates through the oak barrels and becomes “lost to the Angels”. 2% of aging spirits are lost this way each year. As tribute to the size of the Jamison operation, that means the “Angels” consume 30,000 bottles EVERY DAY! Of course they must be Irish Angels.

The tour and tasting behind us we continued to saunter. Not long thereafter we encountered Christ Church Cathedral. Christine and I were still carrying our Camino Credentials and we entered to see if we could get them stamped. The clerk was delighted to do so, indicating the request was not a common one even though the Cathedral has a special stamp for that purpose. She then invited us to tour the Cathedral and waved the 15 euro charge! Wow, more Angels! However, Camino Angels tend to be of a different “spirit” than the Jamison variety.

The current Christ Church Cathedral is built upon the site of an 11th Century Cathedral church built by Silkenbeard, the Viking King of Dublin. The “modern” Cathedral dates to the 12th Century and is believed to be the first place that King Henry II took communion after the murder of Bishop Thomas Becket at Canterbury. It is also the final resting place of Strongbow, who was instrumental in the Norman conquest of Ireland. The Cathedral contains a remarkable crypt and relics from its history.

Notability absent from the relics is the iron heart that encased the actual heart of Saint Laurence O’Toole, Archbishop of Dublin. The heart was stolen 6 years ago, recovered 2 weeks ago, but for now only the iron cage that once housed the relic remains on display.

Another notable is the mummified remains of the cat and rat which were found in the pipe organ and memorialized by author James Joyce in Finnegan’s Wake when he described someone as being “…As stuck as that cat to that mouse in that tube of that Christ Church organ…”

Enough for now. Ireland awaits and it is the dawn of a new day!

Peace Everyone. Pete