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We have considered that this journey seems to unfold in “chapters“. We think that the overnight “Train Hotel” to Lisbon qualifies as it’s own chapter. We are not strangers to sleeper trains in Europe. I have traveled from London to Paris where the entire train was put into a ship and crossed the English Channel from Dover to Calais then on to Paris. This was pre-Chunnel. I have also ridden the Orient Express from Belgrade to Paris… Hercule Poiroit was not on board.

In 1991 we traveled with our children from Amsterdam to Munich in a non-private second class “Couchette” with 6 beds organized 3 high on each side. Our family occupied 5 of the bunks, and the 6th was held by a Yugoslav expat who lived in Amsterdam with his wife and young daughter where he was employed as an electrician. It was the start of the disintegration of Tito’s Yugoslavia. He was traveling to Munich and then on to the border where he hoped to enter his former homeland covertly to extract his parents. He and I spent the entire night awake, sharing beers and talking life and family. I was on a vacation and he was on a literal life and death mission. He explained that if he were caught the best case scenario was forced conscription, the worst, execution. To this day I wonder of the outcome…

Our train accommodations from Madrid to Lisbon were technically 1st Class, but not when compared to the glory days of rail travel in Europe that I had experienced decades ago. We had a simple private compartment with 2 beds and a sink. Clean and efficient, we were provided with toiletries and towels. The beds were comfortable and our coach adjoined the restaurant/bar car. The best “perk” was that we had access 2 hours before boarding to the Renfe (Spain’s National rail line) private lounge and complimentary snacks and beverages.

After the typical on-time departure, Christine and I took seats in the bar-car for some snacks and vino tinto (red wine). We made the acquaintances of a young couple from Austin Texas. She, Morgan, is a very talented artist exhibiting in Europe and Jerome owns and operates along with his mother a bakery, “Rolling in Thyme and Dough”. Morgan and Jerome have known each other for half their lives and about 18 months ago awoke to the realization that they loved each other. We talked life from both sides of the mirror, shared laughter seasoned with wine and olives. I will remember them.

Arrival in Lisbon was before 8am. We are guests of The Poets Hostel of Lisbon. They agreed to hold our packs as check-in was not until 2:30, but they graciously allowed us to take breakfast. Christine and I then left to walk 7 miles of this very hilly city, visiting the main Plaza, securing seat reservations for our Wednesday train to Porto, touring the 11th Century Castle that overlooks the city, and of course the Cathedral where we encountered other Pilgrims who were there,like us, to obtain sellos (stamps) on their Credentials.

Our Hostel facilities and room are top-notch at only 50 euros a night. We have a private balcony and an incredible view. A clean room, friendly staff… this was a good choice.

Peace Everyone! Pete

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We are the old folks in a young people’s Hostel, yet we fit right in. What “OK Hostel Madrid” lacks in amenities it more than makes up for in unabashed friendliness. We enjoyed a communal breakfast and then joined a donation only walking tour of the city. We enjoyed performances by the remarkable street musicians and a church choir.

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The second picture below is of the Royal Palace that dates to the 18th Century and is the largest in Western Europe, containing over 3,000 rooms and the largest collection of medieval armor in the world.

Above it the facade of the Madrid Cathedral where it faces the Royal Palace.

This evening, Karen at the front desk recommended that we walk 20 minutes to Plaza de Santa Ana in the Letres Barrio to Vinoteca Barbechera. What a fabulous recommendation that turned out to be. The night and city vibrations were accentuated by excellent tapas and a remarkable Vino Tinto Tempranillo. We FaceTimed with some of the “little people” and reflected on the past, present, and future. Our servers, Bianca and Carlos were absolutely the best! Dinner started at 10pm, but the memories will last a lifetime.

Tomorrow we tour more of the city and then board a Tren-Hotel (train hotel) at 9:40pm bound for Lisbon. We have a private sleeping compartment that will be our overnight “home” until we arrive in Lisbon Portugal the next morning.

Peace Everyone! Pete

 

In 2017, while traveling and camping in Alaska, we met Ron and Lena. We were immediately attracted to them. As retirees they spent approximately half their time on the road in a very small RV, had incredibly positive dispositions, liked people, but most of all really liked each other. We made a fast friendship with them, and upon parting wondered if our paths would again cross.

The question was answered yesterday. While I was doing our much needed laundry, I received a Facebook message from Lena. They were in Madrid!..having completed the Camino Via de la Plata route to Santiago. Using a mixture of Facebook, Skype, and Messenger, we arranged to meet for dinner in the Barrio neighborhood. Ron described the restaurant as a “hole in the wall” with great atmosphere and food. It was, and it did!

In Spain, dinner doesn’t really get going until 9pm or later. We met at 7:30, sipped vino tinto and cervesa until 9pm, and then dined until nearly midnight. The time fairly flew as we caught each other up on the gifts and challenges of life. Will our threads in this tapestry of fate cross again?… only time will tell.

Madrid at night is a carnival, alive with the pulse of humanity. No museum or art gallery can compete with the energy that unfolded before us as we slowly walked back to our hostel.

Today we will breakfast at the hostel, join its residents for a walking tour of the city, enjoy a street-side cafe, and let the day present us with its menu del dia.

As Eddie said to us in Puerto Rico, “In life, there are no coincidences!”

Peace Everyone! Pete

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I am typing this aboard a Renfe high speed train to Madrid. The cabin is like first class on an airplane and the ride is neatly as smooth, just much quieter. There are attendants serving snacks and drinks, and a movie will be playing shortly. We will cover the nearly 400 miles (about the distance from Kansas City to Chicago as the crow flies) in 3 hours of comfort.

Yesterday we spent 2 hours touring another of Gaudi’s signature accomplishments, La Pedrera. Like the Sagrada Familia it is designated as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Constructed in 1906 as a combination of first level shops, an opulent private residence on the 2nd and 3rd levels, and apartments on the remaining 5 floors, it retains today much of that same utility except that the second and eighth levels, along with the roof and “attic” are now exhibition and museum space. This building, along with the Sagrada Familia were prominently and accurately featured in the best selling novel by Dan Brown, “Origin”. The roof undulates like sand dunes and the structure beneath reminds one of a snake’s skeleton. Atop the roof the ventilation shafts and chimneys are reminiscent of Star Wars, just created a century earlier.

After a lunch, that for me featured Octopus Paella cooked in its own ink, we visited the Barcelona Museu D’Historia. This incredible facility is an underground excavation beneath the bustling Plaza del Rei. This subterranean museum wanders through excavations dating to 10 BCE when “Barcino”, as it was known by the Romans, was a teeming fortified city and retirement community for Legionnaires. We wandered (entirely underground) through streets, along the fortified city wall, in the rooms of a villa, visited a laundry, a Garum (fish sauce) factory, and winery. The Laundry very effectively utilized lime, alum, and urine to create an ammonia based bleach. Clothing was dried and scented with lavender, and a variety of dies were also employed. The Roman town also had advanced fresh water and waste water delivery systems. The winery had a storage capacity of over 10,000 liters.

The evening was capped off with a nice dinner and then packing for this mornings departure to Madrid.

Peace Everyone. Pete

To give some context to our visit and tour of the Sagrada Familia and my pictures from yesterday, I am borrowing from and updating an earlier post.

The Sagrada Familia (Holy Family) is a monumental church begun in 1882 but not to be completed within the lifetime of its master architect, Antoni Gaudi who quipped, “My Client is not in a hurry!”. Throughout its history it has attracted awe, criticism, and in recent years people… throngs of people. It is now one of the top 3 most visited sites in Europe. Reservations are needed to visit this privately funded marvel.

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The project originated in the hands of another architect who envisioned a fairly standard church dedicated to the Holy Family. That architect resigned after only a year. Antoni Gaudi was then employed and turned the church’s concept on its head. His talents and passions were unique. He was above all a gifted architect, but he was also an artist, naturalist, inventor, and held a deep spiritual dedication to Jesus, Mary, and Joseph. Gaudi dedicated 43 years of his life to the project, the last 13 being his exclusive work. He sought to employ the shapes of nature into his work, inventing techniques and tools that had not previously existed. Gaudi acknowledged that future architects and technologies would be employed long after his death and he sought to inspire them with his vision. Thus, he proceeded with construction in phases, working first on the completion of the Nativity façade. He believed that completed segments would guarantee the project’s future and draw the curious to see “what they are doing in Barcelona”. He only lived to see the completion of the façade and one tower, but his predictions proved accurate.

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Gaudi’s genius becomes immediately apparent as one tries to comprehend the mind that conceived of this otherworldly creation. Gaudi drew inspiration from nature. Thus, his preferred building elements were curves, ellipses, and ovals.

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He shunned the common design features of straight lines, squares and rectangles. In Gaudi’s day the computer tools to design with his favored elements did not exist, so he improvised. Tying hundreds of strings from a ceiling and joining them with small bags of sand he found that gravity drew the strings into natural parabolic curves. Using mirrors on the floor he was able to draw from the reflected images into his designs.

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The church, now declared a Basilica, will feature 18 different spires. The central spire, representing Christ, will be 560 feet tall at completion. Entry into the Basilica is breathtaking. Instead of straight columns supporting a ceiling, the supports mimic trees ascending to a distant forest canopy. Stonework is kaleidoscopic in both color and presentation.

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The exterior features 3 principle facades. At our visit in 2013 the Nativity and Passion facades, at opposite sides of the church, were starkly different. The stonework on the Nativity side is organic and “flows” with the lifelike Biblical images. In contrast, the Passion facade is stark, angular, and almost painful to behold.

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There has been much progress over the 5 years since our last visit, and a small technical revolution in that time. The current architects are now employing 3D printers for modeling design elements.

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Individual stones are precisely cut off-site and then assembled on-site, in Lego like fashion. The goal is to complete the entire facility on the 100 year anniversary of Gaudi’s death in 2026.

Peace Everyone. Pete