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The sun was missing in action most of the day. In spite of the intermittent showers temperatures were pleasant, as was the day and my wife’s company.

We again sojourned Old San Juan. Highlights included Constitution Avenue, on which we saw the Athens Club, the oldest education and cultural organization in Puerto Rico, the Spanish Heritage Center, the Carnegie Library, and the White House which is Puerto Rico‘s seat of government. On the opposite side of Constitution Avenue from the White House are a line of life-size bronze statues, Presidents of the United States who have visited Puerto Rico beginning with Theodore Roosevelt. It was noteworthy to see which presidents were represented, but sad to realize which presidents were absent. My impression is that Puerto Rico received much more attention in the first half of the 20th century than the last half of the 20th century and the early 21st-century. There is a gap between the statues of presidents Gerard Ford and Barack Obama representing over 3 decades.

We toured Castillo San Cristobal, a Spanish fortification the construction of which began 500 years ago. It was expanded over the next 250+ years and is renowned as one of the worlds finest examples of pre-modern military defenses. It is a World Heritage site managed by the United States National Park Service. Our “geezer passes” saved us $14 in admission fees! The resources that Spain dedicated to the fort over the centuries is a tribute to the strategic value of Puerto Rico for colonial expansion into both North and South America. It and Puerto Rico were ceded to the United States by Spain’s surrender in 1898 concluding the Spanish-American war.

We enjoyed a light lunch in the oldest restaurant in PR.

On the way back to our B&B, on one of the narrow connecting avenues, we encountered talented street musicians who had drawn an enthusiastic crowd of thirsty and hungry locals. Taverns on opposite sides of the street were the clear beneficiaries, serving hot homemade Caribbean foods and cold Puerto Rico brews. I am a fan of Magna, a full-bodied lager… 2 for $5 at the street music venue!

It’s 5pm, and I’m taking the opportunity to write these notes while Christine takes a rest. We will be heading out for dinner soon. No destination in mind as luck seems to favor our random wanderings.

Peace Everyone! Pete

PS. We encountered an Airstream RV with Indiana plates. How it got here is today’s mystery.

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Up at 3:30 am, and on the road to the airport by 4:20. It’s a brutal way to start the day. We had previously secured TSA pre-check and “Trusted Traveler” statuses, which means we didn’t have to take our shoes off at security. Worth it or not, the jury is still out.

The flights to Atlanta and then PR were uneventful, except that we flew first class by virtue of frequent flyer miles. We were treated REALLY well by the crew, wined, dined, and I got to watch 2 movies that had been on my list, The Foreigner (Jackie Chan), and The Shape of Water. Foreigner was ok, but Shape of Water was terrific. I highly recommend it.

We didn’t know what to expect flying into Puerto Rico. It has only been six months since hurricane Maria, a category five storm, ravage the island. I had called ahead in January to our bed-and-breakfast to make sure that things were up and running. Our host had assured us that the old city had all services restored. As we flew over the island on our landing approach it appeared that at least a quarter of the houses had blue roofs. I later learned that those “roofs” were really tarps covering houses that had not yet been fully repaired. Areas of the central island remain without power.

We had arranged for a transport service to drive us from the airport to Casa del Sol, our B&B in Old San Juan. Our accommodations are charming and very old world. No surprise since these walls that surround our room are over 250 years old! Our host, Eddie, spent about 30 minutes with us and a map, marking sites for us to visit over the next three days, all within walking distance. He also provided us with recommendations for dining and entertainment, highlighting places that attract the locals.

Eddie gave us some insight into the frustrations that the people of Puerto Rico face in their campaign to rebuild their island. Puerto Rico is a territory of the United States. People born in Puerto Rico are United States citizens. However, the territory operates under someone usual constraints. Most significant of these is the Jones Act. Passed in 1917, granted citizenship to those persons born on and after 1898. It also established government on the island. The Jones Act also prohibits non-US flagged vessels from delivering goods to PR. Foreign merchandise can arrive on the island, provided that it first reaches the United States and is transferred to a US flag vessel. This inserts another “middleman“ into the stream of commerce and increases the cost of living significantly. In the case of hurricane Maria, PR was denied foreign assistance and aid that other countries were willing to deliver. In spite of these frustrations we have found everyone to be welcoming and friendly.

It appears that there will be plenty to keep us busy in Old San Juan for the next three days. We will not need a car as everything is within easy walking distance, including the docks where we will depart by ship for Spain on Tuesday.

I have included pictures from our Flight into Puerto Rico, our B&B, and some random sights from our walk through old San Juan. Enjoy!

Peace Everyone! Pete

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There are events in life, seemingly insignificant when they occur, that loom large when examined through the rear-view mirror of destiny. One such event in my life occurred in 1991 as our family prepared to travel by train from Paris to London.

It was our first trip to Europe that included our children. A whirlwind 2 weeks that took us to Italy, France, the Netherlands, and England. Our children ranged in age from 8 to 12 years old. As we waited for the train to depart Paris, a woman approximately our age with a young teenage girl in tow entered the train car. “Are there any English-speaking families aboard?” She had a perfect English accent and after a moment’s hesitation I caught Christine’s eye. Chris nodded her affirmation to my unspoken question. I raised my hand to the woman. “Oh, thank you! Would you mind terribly if my daughter accompanied you to London? Friends will be meeting her there at the station and I had hoped that she would not have to travel alone.” After brief introductions we made Bryony a temporary member of the family.

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I recall her to have been 13 or 14, a year or two older than our son Peter. She and the children hit it off immediately. Our journey that day took us to the coast of France where we would board a ferry to cross the Channel. On the English side we were to board another train that would deposit us at Victoria Station in London. It was there that Bryony was to be met by family friends.

Over the course of the trip we learned that Bryony was fluent in 5 languages, a duel citizen of England and France, and had the ambition to be educated in law in both England and France. We were captured by her engaging personality and sense of humor. At the beginning of the journey a train attendant had identified her to be a native. Referencing our children, he had made a remark about the American habit of saying “Have a nice day!”. Later, as he passed through the car she addressed him with a perfectly imitated American accent saying, “Have a Nice Day!” to which our children joined in chorus.

When we arrived at Victoria Station Bryony’s friends were nowhere to be seen. It turned out that there had been a misunderstanding about the time of her arrival. We were not about to leave her there alone, so we enjoyed extending our visit until they came.

That chance encounter with Bryony set in motion a series of events that changed the course of life for our family. We marveled at the impact that even a brief intercultural exchange had on us and our children. Upon our return to the States we began exploring options for hosting an exchange student. That school year we hosted Andre’ from Germany and for each of the 5 years that followed we became “parents” of other children from Europe. Christine and I became representatives for AFS, the international student exchange program. Our children went on to each spend a year living abroad with families; Peter in Spain, Renee’ and Alexis each in France.

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In 1993 we returned to Europe and were guests of Bryony’s family in Lille, France. Her parents and brother were every bit as warm and engaging as she was. We have maintained contact with Bryony now for nearly 30 years and we look forward to seeing her during our upcoming journey. It is a marvel how a one-day encounter with a child on a train in France has impacted our lives, the lives of our children, our exchange student children, and so many others, including you who are reading my “Thoughts”.

Peace Everyone! Pete

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Spring on the prairie welcomes the return of the grasses, flowers, and crops. Their emergence is steady and persistent, flooding the landscape with verdant life that will flourish for months until ended by the first killing frosts. Upon the tundra that is found at altitude or in sub-arctic latitudes, plant life is confronted with the challenges of limited opportunity. In order to survive, plants seize the first moments of thaw to explode into life upon the ice crusted fields. The season there is short, but the plants have adapted to compress an entire life-cycle into a matter of weeks. Nature adapts to what circumstances require for life to flourish. Nature abhors a vacuum.

As with life on the prairie and life on the tundra, friendships form and flourish differently at home and “on the road”. Friendship tends to grow slowly and with care in our neighborhoods and workplaces. There is caution in what we share until trust is well established. Friendships formed “on the road” do not have the luxury of time and contemplation. I have found that we, and those who we befriend, are quick to share the details of our lives. We are heedless of the cautions that would otherwise be in place at home. An evening at the campfire, or a day walking lockstep with a stranger upon a pilgrim’s path are sufficient to cement a new friendship that is every bit as dear as those cultivated over time.

Remaining connected to others may be as necessary for one’s emotional health as food and water are for the body. Christine and I count ourselves among those who thrive on the company of others. We embrace the wonder of the new sights and experiences of travel, but without the rich reward of new friendships travel would become 2 dimensional and lose much of its luster.

We know that a friendship forged “on the road”, or on the Camino, may be like paths that are destined to intersect only once. However, we focus on the moment of the intersection and not the regret that there may never be another crossing. When we walked the Camino in 2013 we formed dozens of these sudden deep friendships. The strength of those bonds is not dependent upon what the future holds but what was cemented in the richness of the brief experiences that we shared.

The next 3 months promise a pallet of wonderful sights and extraordinary experiences. However, it is the promise of renewing old friendships, and embracing new ones that excites me the most.

Peace Everyone! Pete Schloss

On March 7th, 2017, we booked our cross-Atlantic cruise to Barcelona Spain. This past year has gone fast, and here we are with just 5 days before we fly to Puerto Rico to begin this journey.

We have talked about returning to walk the Camino since 2013. We even had tickets booked for 2014. Unfortunately, I blew out an ankle and the surgery with lengthy recovery nixed those plans.

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We never doubted that we would return, it was the when and the how that were left to be decided. Over the course of 2015 and 2016 this became a frequent topic of conversation and plans began to take shape. The idea of crossing to Europe by water fascinated us. Research into “repositioning cruises” followed. There were a number of cruise lines offering the trip, but Viking became a clear choice even though they were not “cheapest”. We were attracted by the smaller ship, adult focused amenities, and the all inclusive character of the pricing. We hate being “nickeled and dimed”.

Once the cruise was secured we then began the process of constructing the journey. A flight was confirmed to Puerto Rico where we would spend 3 nights before boarding the ship.

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We booked 60 day unlimited Rail-Europe passes, and secured accommodations for Barcelona, Madrid, Lisbon, and Porto Portugal. Flight arrangements were made to return us to Kansas City from Oslo Norway with a one week layover and rental car in Iceland. This began to look, metaphorically speaking, like a sandwich. The bun and condiments were in place, we just had not selected the meats and cheeses! In other words, once we completed the walk to Santiago the itinerary was to be determined.

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Contacts by us and to us with overseas friends have further fleshed out the plan, yet much remains “open”. We know that we will head to Ireland from Spain to meet dear friends who are from Wales. We estimate spending up to 2 weeks in Ireland. From there we feel certain to ferry to Scotland where we will spend an estimated 2 weeks before heading to Amsterdam. We plan on visiting Netherlands “Camino friends” and then a young lady in Brussels Belgium. Germany, Austria, Hungary, Slovakia, and Poland are all in the “mix” with definite plans to visit former exchange students in Berlin and Bratislava. Our final Europe leg will take us to the home of a former exchange student near Oslo Norway. From there Iceland Air will carry us to it’s capitol of Reykjavik. We have reserved a rental car for our week wandering the countryside… and then back to Kansas City.

This last weekend has seen an increase in my anxiety level. I have loaded, weighed, unloaded, re-loaded and re-weighed my pack at least 4 times. It looks like I have made it to 18 pounds. We have secured currency in Euros and Pounds. I have made pdf images of all our important documents, “just in case”, and arranged for auto-pay on as many bills as possible. There is more preparation stuff that I have done, but it is pretty certain that I have forgotten something.

Enough for now, I need to figure out what is left to do this week!!

Peace Everyone. Pete