Vega de Valcarce to O Cebreiro June 16-17, 2026.
Dear Followers, Friends, Family, and Christine.
Vega de Valcarce is larger than many of the villages that we have stayed in. It has a population of a little more than 500. It seemed to have everything we needed including our wonderful hostel: Two pharmacies, two markets, a bakery, and two cafés. Unfortunately, it only had one evening restaurant.
Our host Ana had sent us a text message advising that the restaurant was closed for one night, our night.
It was to market for us where we acquired a sumptuous picnic dinner that was sufficient to provide us with breakfast the following morning.
Bread, cheeses, meats, beer snacks, apples, chocolate, and of course excellent local wine.
We dined on our terrace, serenaded by the nearby murmuring stream.
A short time later, we were joined by Germans, Dennis and Galena. They brought beer, more snacks, and great company. They spoke excellent English, yet I enjoyed wandering into and out of German with them. (Tina, du wärst stolz.)
The next morning, June 17, Charlie and I metaphorically “girded our loins” (put on our packs and grabbed our trekking poles), preparing to do battle with the climb to O Cebreiro.
Hot and humid, the ascent was daunting. Over 2000 feet of elevation gain in 12 km. O Cebreiro would be our reward at the end.
Early in the climb we walked along a very narrow but steep country road. We were forced to step aside, a deep ravine to our backs, as a car made its way past us. My eye caught the woman passenger frantically waving at us through the glass. “Charlie, what was that all about?”
A few seconds later, I had my answer. At a wider spot in the road the car stopped and the passenger door flew open. Diane, Camino friend Madi‘s mom, jumped from the car yelling “Pete and Charlie!“
We visited long enough for an introduction to Doug (Diane’s husband) a hug (from Diane), an update on Madi’s progress, and a selfie. Just one of those Camino miracles.
The second part of the “Camino miracle” occurred in O Cebreiro where we found Madi!
Another hug, more updates, and another selfie. Charlie and I hope that this young lady will stay in touch so that we can vicariously enjoy the progress of her life.
O Cebreiro is an ancient place.
The church was founded as a pilgrim refuge in the mid 800’s, just a few years after the discovery of the remains of Saint James (Santiago).
Inside the church there are venerated relics of a 12th century miracle.
During a vicious snowstorm, a Shepherd fought his way to the church to attend Mass and receive the Eucharist. The priest, not a very holy man, berated the Shepherd for his stupidity. However, during the consecration the bread and wine turned to literal flesh and blood. The blood permanently stained the altar cloth. The communion vessels and the altar cloth remain displayed in a side chapel and are venerated for their religious and historical significance.
Love to you, Christine.
Peace Everyone and Buen Camino. Pete.