Vega de Valcarce to O Cebreiro June 16-17, 2026.

Dear Followers, Friends, Family, and Christine.

Vega de Valcarce is larger than many of the villages that we have stayed in. It has a population of a little more than 500. It seemed to have everything we needed including our wonderful hostel: Two pharmacies, two markets, a bakery, and two cafés. Unfortunately, it only had one evening restaurant.

Our host Ana had sent us a text message advising that the restaurant was closed for one night, our night.

It was to market for us where we acquired a sumptuous picnic dinner that was sufficient to provide us with breakfast the following morning.

Bread, cheeses, meats, beer snacks, apples, chocolate, and of course excellent local wine.

We dined on our terrace, serenaded by the nearby murmuring stream.

A short time later, we were joined by Germans, Dennis and Galena. They brought beer, more snacks, and great company. They spoke excellent English, yet I enjoyed wandering into and out of German with them. (Tina, du wärst stolz.)

The next morning, June 17, Charlie and I metaphorically “girded our loins” (put on our packs and grabbed our trekking poles), preparing to do battle with the climb to O Cebreiro.

Hot and humid, the ascent was daunting. Over 2000 feet of elevation gain in 12 km. O Cebreiro would be our reward at the end.

Early in the climb we walked along a very narrow but steep country road. We were forced to step aside, a deep ravine to our backs, as a car made its way past us. My eye caught the woman passenger frantically waving at us through the glass. “Charlie, what was that all about?”

A few seconds later, I had my answer. At a wider spot in the road the car stopped and the passenger door flew open. Diane, Camino friend Madi‘s mom, jumped from the car yelling “Pete and Charlie!“

We visited long enough for an introduction to Doug (Diane’s husband) a hug (from Diane), an update on Madi’s progress, and a selfie. Just one of those Camino miracles.

The second part of the “Camino miracle” occurred in O Cebreiro where we found Madi!

Another hug, more updates, and another selfie. Charlie and I hope that this young lady will stay in touch so that we can vicariously enjoy the progress of her life.

O Cebreiro is an ancient place.

The church was founded as a pilgrim refuge in the mid 800’s, just a few years after the discovery of the remains of Saint James (Santiago).

Inside the church there are venerated relics of a 12th century miracle.

During a vicious snowstorm, a Shepherd fought his way to the church to attend Mass and receive the Eucharist. The priest, not a very holy man, berated the Shepherd for his stupidity. However, during the consecration the bread and wine turned to literal flesh and blood. The blood permanently stained the altar cloth. The communion vessels and the altar cloth remain displayed in a side chapel and are venerated for their religious and historical significance.

Love to you, Christine.

Peace Everyone and Buen Camino. Pete.

Ponferrada, Villafranca del Bierzo and to Vega de Valcarce, June 15-16, 2026.

Dear Followers, Friends, Family, and Christine.

I am catching up on the last two days. Last night we were dog tired and the internet was down at our hostel.

On June 15 Charlie and I proceeded out of Ponferrada.

Unfortunately, we had asked directions and we were provided a map that clearly showed the route of the Camino… If you were driving a car.

For the first 4 miles we followed a boulevard, straight as a string, and wondered “where did all the pilgrims go?“

We received our answer when 4 miles down the road an uninterrupted column of pilgrims joined our roadway from a path to the far right. They were like a line of ants heading to a picnic lunch.

It has been brutally hot and the sun has beat down upon us like a blowtorch.

Not too bad in the early morning, but by early afternoon we have walked in temperatures at and above the mid 80s. No breeze or shade. Hydration has been critical. Worse is predicted.

We are in a very developed wine region.

Vineyards are everywhere. The following picture mirrors one that I took 13 years ago and often appears in tourist brochures.

As Charlie and I walked through the heat of the day we wondered out loud, “Where are all our Camino friends?“

We were seeing familiar faces, but not those of people with whom we had made a solid connection.

After arriving at our hostel for the night we proceeded to the Plaza Mayor for beer and tapas.

What to our wondering eyes should appear, but Madi from Florida! She jumped up and ran to greet us. Madi had been joined for a couple of days by her mother, Diane. It was a wonderful reunion and I think we nearly brought Diane to tears when we extolled the virtues of her wonderfully mature daughter. Madi no doubt has a bright future ahead of her.

After we joined them at table, who should appear but Michael and Lynn for Australia! A second table was pulled in to accommodate the new “crowd“.

That was not enough. A few minutes later and pilgrims Jim and Katie stood before us. More chairs, another table, and it was a party! It was also a gift from the Camino.

At table we were asked if we had taken a rest day. It seemed that everyone else had. Seeds of a suggestion were planted which took root and sprouted on the walk today.

We have decided it’s time for a rest day before the final 100 km. Therefore, after we visit O’Cebreiro (a tough climb to a high point on the Camino) we will seek out a lodging for two consecutive nights, perhaps at the monastery in Samos. Charlie and I both could use the physical and emotional rest, and fill up our spiritual gas tanks.

A word about our accommodations: On the first night Charlie and I stayed in a conventional albergue. Six beds in a single room with a shared bathroom down the hall.

From that point on we have searched for simple accommodations with the important points being that they include a private room and en suite bathroom.

Many times these have been a privately owned hostel or casa rural. Most of the time the ownership is proud of their simple accommodations, keeping them immaculately clean and comfortable.

Today’s room is no exception. This basic comforts come at a cost of €45-€75 for the room, sometimes including breakfast.

Considering that the dormitory arrangement at an albergue typically costs around €17 per person, it is good value for a significant upgrade in comfort and privacy.

Christine, I am so happy to hear that you and our granddaughter are getting along so well! You are making memories that will last a lifetime. Love, me.

Peace, Everyone and Buen Camino! Pete.

El Acebo to Ponferrada, June 14, 2026.

Dear Followers, Friends, Family, and Christine.

Today in the span of less than 20 km we traded small charming mountain villages for the bustle of city life in Ponferrada (pop. 69,000).

The descent to the river valley was steep, but not near as steep as yesterday.

At times we could discern that we were walking ancient Roman roads.

As if this needed confirmation, a sign led us off the route 150 meters to a 2,000 year old Roman fountain.

I am running short on time this evening, so I’ll post my pictures and provide some captions were appropriate.

Safe travels to the three grandchildren returning to the states. Continued grand journey for you and the remaining granddaughter. Love you Christine. Me

Peace Everyone and Buen Camino. Pete.

Rabanal to El Acebo, June 13, 2026.

Dear Followers, Friends, Family, and Christine.

As we left Rabanal, a spiritually rich village, Charlie waxed poetic, contemplating aloud the journey of Jesus from village to village 2000 years ago. Charlie remarked, “We are walking at the speed of Jesus.“

I was thunderstruck. What a brilliant way to capture the moment. I stopped to write it in my phone and committed that those words would be the title of today’s post.

Today was an iconic day with our ascent to the Cruz de Farro.

It is a place of serious contemplation for many pilgrims, the highest point on the Camino.

Tradition calls upon us to leave a stone at the Cross to symbolically represent the release of some burden and a prayer asking strength and forgiveness from the Creator.

I had forgotten just how much strength would be required for the downward descent to our next town, El Acebo. The path was steep, rock strewn, and treacherous. We and our hiking companion, Cornelia from Switzerland, relied heavily upon our trekking poles.

Often times they were the difference between stability and a near fall. The distance might have been 19 km but it felt more like 30.

Christine, I am thinking of you. In two days you will bid goodbye to three of your traveling companion grandchildren. I know what a wonderful experience this has been for you and them. I also know how sad the parting will be. Love, Me

Peace, Everyone and Buen Camino. Pete.

Here are other pictures from the day:

PS. On April 28, 2026, a dear friend and mentor, Edward “Ned” Coulson, passed from this life.

In 1980 I was fresh out of law school and seeking employment as a new attorney. Ned invited me to his office and offered me a small space, the use of his secretary and supplies. The cost, $350 a month. When I went home to tell Christine that I had a position at $350 a month she first wondered how we could possibly support our growing family on such a meager a salary. The look on her face was priceless when I explained it was not how much I would be earning but how much I would have to pay.

Ned assured me that I would never want for business and that my success as an attorney was all but guaranteed. He gave me confidence to go forward and the rest is history.

Ned‘s obituary was published today:

Ned Coulson- Parkville, MO 04.28.2026

Written June 12, 2026 

Dear Followers, Friends, Family, and Christine.

Today began with some challenges to my peace.

But how would one know the blessing of peace unless they had also experienced discord to compare it with?

Early in today’s walk there were three pilgrims listening to loud music on a very large bluetooth speaker. It was at maximum volume and audible for a radius of over 100 feet. Their pace seemed to mirror ours and the cacophony was inescapable.

Finally, out of frustration I approached the holder of the speaker. I said, “It is said that everyone walks their own Camino, but sir you are forcing everyone around you to walk your Camino.“

He was offended, but he turned the music down until eventually his small group was separated from the small group that I walked with.

Unfortunately, the stress of the moment lingered with me longer than the music.

Later in the day, Charlie and I checked into our room in a casa that is hundreds of years old.

Christine, you know how special this village is to me, and how meaningfully my experience was at the ancient church here in 2013.

We attended portions of the liturgy of the hours, presented at 7pm and 9:20 pm by Benedictine monks here in Rabanal.

Between Vespers and Compine we enjoyed a great meal, wonderful company and I the restoration of Peace.

Love to you Christine

Peace Everyone and Buen Camino. Pete.