Category: Letters Home

Toledo Spain!

Posted on by Pete Schloss

November 2, 2022. Aboard a Renfe high speed train between Madrid and Valencia, Spain.

Dear Christine. At the urging of a friend I spent yesterday in Toledo, Spain. It is only a 30 minute trip by high speed train.

I originally had scheduled to be there for a little over five hours but upon reaching Toledo I modified my ticket for a later return. I’m glad I did.

Toledo is a marvel! It has managed to retain the character and charm of a well preserved medieval fortress city while providing excellent tourist accommodations, restaurants, and accessibility.

I departed Madrid from the Puerta de Atocha station. It’s an old station that has been modernized. Rather than destroy the old steam train canopy it has been turned into a greenhouse full of huge tropical plants.

At the Toledo train station I purchased the ticket for the “hop on hop off“ service. It was my first impression was that it was a little pricey at €24, but that also included transport to and from the train station, along with a tour of and paid entry into the cathedral. Entry to the cathedral would otherwise have cost €10.

The train station would have been a bit of a walk to town, doable but the daunting part would have been the arduous climb to the citadel.

Muslim/Arabic architectural influences were immediately apparent at the station and throughout the city.

The old city is surrounded by a river that served as a natural moat in ancient times. There were remarkable arched bridges from those days. but they now only provide pedestrian access.

With the elevated city on one side of a bridge and the deep river separating the two sides, it is the perfect location for a zip line. If Tom were here I am confident that we would have done it.

By the way, I just looked up to see the train speedometer, 300 kph! That works out to over 180 mph. It is smooth, and I am in business class which borders on elegant. Comfortable leather seats that recline, a movie overhead, and an expansive view of the countryside. An attendant has made the rounds providing moist warm cloths to clean one’s hands/face and breakfast for those who included the service with their ticket.

My initial impression was that accommodations in Toledo would be expensive. However, a quick look at “booking.com” indicated that there were also moderately priced options. I think this is a place that you and I should someday plan to spend at least two consecutive nights.

The city is full of museums and attractions. Some are “kitschy“, like the torture museum and the catapult museum, while others are “must see“, like the cathedral which is the center of Catholicism in Spain.

As with the other huge cathedrals, this one also featured a beautifully arranged and carved choir.

Most of the streets are narrow and winding which adds to the charm. It is very easy to get lost but since the central city is relatively small that becomes part of the entertainment. It’s like wandering in a maze and discovering new things at every turn.

I had not intended to see yet another monumental cathedral, but “when in Rome (or Toledo) do as the Romans (“Toledans”) do! This one did not disappoint. It is considered the second largest in Spain with the wealthiest collection of art and treasure.

The sacristy houses the worlds largest collection of original artwork by El Greco. There are 17 separate paintings by the artist in the one room. What is ironic is that Toledo has an El Greco museum but with fewer of his works.

As far as “treasure“ the cathedral has a towering monstrance that stands about 10 feet tall. It is made from 40 pounds of gold and over 400 pounds of silver! It further incorporates the jewels that were once the property of Queen Isabel of Spain. This creation dates to the 15th Century.

Toledo is a photographer’s paradise. I hope you enjoy these pictures. I started with nearly 150 images and painfully cut them down to these final ones.

When I returned to Madrid I decided to go back to the Plaza Mayor for dinner and a drink. The place looked like it had been hit by a hurricane! There was trash and discarded alcoholic beverage bottles everywhere. There was also loud singing throughout the plaza from roving groups of young, and obviously drunk, men. There was a heavy police presence. Needless to say, I left the plaza in favor of a quieter neighborhood.

My search was successful. In the restaurant/bar where I ate was a group of Irish football (soccer) fans. I struck up a conversation with one who is a teacher on holiday here to watch Ireland take on Madrid. He said that Ireland is heavily favored and added that Madrid is a good sport so there should not be any post game problems.

Well, enough for now. I hope you and Wendy are enjoying your day! The countdown continues. There are only three nights left before we join in Barcelona. Love, Me.

PS. I have arrived at my hotel in Valencia. It’s more like a condominium that is managed by a company as a hotel. In any case, it’s an amazing accommodation! I have a kitchenette with washing machine/dryer, dishwasher, cooktop, and refrigerator. I also have my own private patio. It is located in the heart of the old city and only cost $130 a night. What a relief after the last four nights.

Madrid Day 3, Wandering

Posted on by Pete Schloss

October 31, 2022. At Madrid, Spain.

Dear Christine. I decided to plow a lot of ground today, but leave the furrows shallow. Therefore, there will be a lot of pictures but not a lot of content. Even though I used the metro and also an aerial tram, I still covered 10 miles on foot today. So, here we go!

My first stop was at Plaza Espana where there is a monument to Miguel de Cervantes and his 1605 creations, Don Quixote and Sancho Panza.

After walking through a pleasant park I entered a charming neighborhood and a beautiful fountain outside of a convent.

Next was a visit to another park where the 2nd Century BC Egyptian temple to Amon, known as the Temple of Debod has been rebuilt.

This temple was gifted by Egypt to Spain in recognition of Spain’s assistance in rescuing archaeological treasures from the rising waters of the Nile resulting from the 1960 Aswan High Dam project. Unfortunately, the temple is closed on Mondays, but I did obtain an interior image from the Internet.

The park provided an overlook from where I could see the Royal Palace and Cathedral in the distance.

I continued my wanderings through Madrid’s Parque del Oeste until I reached the Teleferico de Madrid. This is a remarkable aerial gondola from the 1960’s links the park to Casa de Campo, crossing river, highway, valley and city, an 11 minute journey of over a mile and a half.

From Casa de Campo i could see a huge amusement park that appeared to be almost a mile farther off. In spite of the distance, I could still hear the screams of those aboard the rides.

I returned by gondola to Parque del Oeste and then walked down a hill to Roseleda del Parque.

This is an incredible rose garden built in 1915. It features over 4000 different varieties of roses. In spite of this being nearly November it was still flush with color and blooms.

The individual rose varieties are identified by name and date of origin. I came upon roses dated to the Middle Ages, Roman antiquity, and one attributed to pre-Roman Phoenicia.

More walking took me to the Royal Palace and the Cathedral de la Almudena.

You and I visited the interior of each of these in 2018. I was tempted to go into the palace but the line for admission extended nearly a city block. There were better things to do.

Next on my list was a visit to the huge Parque de el Retiro. It immediately reminded me of New York’s Central Park.

I sat and enjoyed tapas and a beer while sheltering from the rain under a table umbrella.

The rain was never heavy and certainly didn’t discourage pedestrians or street performers.

I visited the temporary art exposition at Palacio de Valazquez located within the park,

and the Palacio de Cristal, also located within the park. It was closed as work was underway preparing an exhibition.

At this point I return to my room for a brief rest and then set off to find dinner.

This was a very satisfying day. I look forward to my day trip to Toledo tomorrow.

By the way, welcome to Paris! I’m anxious to hear about it. Love, Peter

Madrid, Day One and Two

Posted on by Pete Schloss

October 29-30, 2022. At Madrid, Spain.

Dear Christine. You already know how badly this leg of my trip started. I’m still kicking myself at my lapse of attention that resulted in my exit from the train 55 miles before my destination. Thank goodness for the kind lady in the ticket office who (at no additional cost) issued me a new ticket to complete the trip to Madrid. I am equally grateful that I was able to share the extra two hours in the station with Richard from the UK. My age, a retired physician, recently undergone heart surgery, and walking his fourth Camino. A very interesting man.

When I arrived at my hostel in Madrid I thought that my luck has gone from bad to worse. The street was narrow, dark, and “earthy“.

The hostel was located on the second floor of what appeared to be an ancient tenement. The hallways inside were narrow and dimly lit. There was no public space to allow for socialization. My room had more in common with a hermits cell than a hotel room. I knew I only had myself to blame. I had selected the hostel based on price and location. It advertised that the room included a bath, which was literally true. However, the “bath“ was a tiny shower and a tinier sink. The toilet was down the hall in a minuscule closet.

No wonder the management required full payment at booking with no refunds.

Here are pictures of my room from two angles, there aren’t any more angles in it.

It didn’t take long for me to look on the bright side: The room is clean, serviced daily, the bed is comfortable, the location can’t be beat, (one block to the subway, four blocks to the Plaza Mayor, and it is in the heart of the old city) and it is a bargain at €90 a day, compared with most accommodations in the vicinity that are three to four times that.

I pursued suggestions I had received for things to see and do in and around Madrid. Last night I visited the Plaza Mayor and enjoyed my first real vegetable salad in way too long. My stomach is still thanking me. Also, NO CHURCHES!

After dinner I purchased a two day “hop on hop off“ bus ticket. As an “old person“ it only cost me €14. I took the tour this morning, but not until after I had visited the nearby Sunday flea market.

It was huge, occupying main avenues and side streets for blocks in every direction. It was extraordinary! Of course it was a flea market… one person’s trash is another person’s treasure.

I asked myself, how could there possibly be enough people in this city to make such a huge flea market commercially viable? The answer is, it’s a huge population. What’s more, I think every soul living in the city was out on the streets today.

The bus tour provided an excellent overview of sites that I hope to visit. It’s a beautiful city with lots of character.

I visited an amazing botanical garden. Admission was free.

In one area the walkways were lined with serpentine shapes of copper pipe. Some of the pipes sang music, others allow you to communicate with unknown people at the hidden other end, and these released fogs of mist.
The gardens feature Spain’s largest collection of Japanese bonsai trees.

I also visited the Plaza and Palace de Cibeles, where I was able to view the city from the top of the palace’s 8 story tower.

On the plaza there is a memorial flame in honor of those citizens who have died in the pandemic.

I finished my evening with a return to the Plaza Mayor where I again took in a light dinner and a cold beer while I enjoyed anonymously watching the flow of humanity.

Spectators were entertained by older adults in traditional costumes dancing the night away.

Tomorrow I’m going to take in more of the city. I have purchased a round trip train ticket for a visit to Toledo on Tuesday.

Tell Wendy “Hi” and give her a hug from me… give yourself two. It sounds like you both had an awesome time in Nice. Safe travels tomorrow to Paris.

Love, Me.

PS. I am stunned by the number of people who have reached out to me publicly and privately in response to my open letter to you about “The Decision”. I feel affirmed in both my choice to undergo the procedure and to be public about it.

The Decision

Posted on by Pete Schloss

October 28, 2022. At Burgos, Spain.

Dear Christine. A few days ago I told you I had decided. You ask how I came to the choice, and why while I was walking across Portugal and Spain. Your question took me by surprise, and I’m not satisfied with the quick answer that I gave. The question has occupied my thoughts these last few days because we both deserve a thoughtful reply.

“It” has haunted and stalked me since grade school. Until playmates begin pointing it out, I gave it no mind, I was being like my mother. My dad said we both just worried too much.

In high school I was too young to legally drink alcohol, but that didn’t stop me. Friends found it curious that after a beer or two “it” temporarily disappeared. I since learned that this is a common trait.

Aptitude tests in college and my own interests pointed me in the direction of a career in medicine, but that was certainly out of the question. Instead, I became a lawyer.

I was always able to adapt. Two hands to put a key in a lock, tall beverage glasses half full or lids on coffee cups, instead of hammers and nails it was cordless drills and screws. A really good legal assistant and voice-to-text typing proved invaluable.

“It” didn’t stop me from bicycling across the United States when I was 58 or hiking with you across Spain when I was 61 and then across Portugal when I was 66. It didn’t stop me from sailing, traveling, or pursuing the things that have enriched our lives with our children and grandchildren.

This last month has been different. I am again hiking Portugal and Spain, but this time without you. “It” has become progressively worse the last few years, but the assistance that you have given me each day we are together has quietly taken up the slack in a way that I had not fully appreciated.

In your absence I see my limitations every time I look at a menu. Where I sit in a restaurant matters, as does the question of table service versus self-service. Completing information forms at the airport or hotel necessitates humility on my part and assistance from others. While I am beyond being embarrassed, I am not beyond confronting reality and the future.

I hinted at this in my earlier essay, “Alone and Invisible“:

“…I also read from the script of the possible future. We have shared over 48 years together, 45 of them as husband and wife. It is exceedingly rare that spouses draw their last breaths together. More common is the outcome visioned in the vows which begin the journey of marriage, “…until death do us part.” It was thus with my mother living alone for 11 years after dad died, and the same for your dad living 9 years without your mother. It is likely that one of us will have to embrace “alone” as a way of life.”

My mantra has always been, “Don’t put off until tomorrow the things you may then find you are unable to do.“ At 70 years old I am mindful that circumstances could arise at any time to deprive me of this decision.

So, assuming the neurologists and neurosurgeons still agree, I have decided to undergo bilateral Deep Brain Stimulation surgery (“DBS”) to treat my Essential Tremors. I have chosen this over the newer Focused Ultrasound therapy (“FUS”) because it is reversible and can be done bilaterally. While both treatments report over 90% rates of patient satisfaction and safety, DBS has a proven track record of long-term efficacy. I have weighed these factors against the usual risks of surgery and my understandable aversion to having holes drilled in my skull and implants placed in the center of my brain.

All that having been said, you are still a part of this decision and I invite your thoughts when we rejoin each other next week in Barcelona.

Love, Peter.

PS. Those of you other than my wife may wonder why I am being so public about this. It is because this condition has been “public” my entire life. It is not something I have ever been able to hide. ET is the most prevalent of neurological motion disorders in the world. ET directly impacts the lives of nearly 1 out of every 50 people. It also impacts the lives of loved ones like my wife. Fortunately, for most it is merely annoying. Unfortunately, for many like me it becomes progressive in later years and significantly effects the quality of life.

If you would like to learn more about Essential Tremors this link will provide a good start to your inquiry: National Institute of Neurological Disorders

Overwhelmed

Posted on by Pete Schloss

October 27, 2022. At Burgos, Spain.

Dear Christine. Do you remember years ago in Florence Italy learning of a psychological condition occurring in individuals overwhelmed by the art and antiquity they have been exposed to? It is called Stendhal’s syndrome, or more commonly “Florence syndrome”.

I think that I am on the verge of becoming a victim, but in my case it’s from the overwhelming saturation of religious objects and art. Perhaps in my case it should be called St. Stendhal’s syndrome, aka, “Burgos syndrome”.

The cathedral at Leon was impressive. However, it is a distant second to the size, scope, and content of the Burgos cathedral.

Moreover, Burgos is absolutely choked with ancient churches. Throw a stone and you are virtually assured of hitting one.

Today, I visited the Monasterio de las Huelgas, a Cistercian convent that has been in operation since the 12th century. There are still at least 30 nuns in residence along with their assistants. It contains a royal pantheon that extends through three large chambers and houses the earthly remains of 33 kings, queens, princes, and princesses.

Until the Council of Trent (1545-1563) the Abbess heard confessions, granted absolution, and may have performed other sacraments.

Unfortunately, photographs were not allowed and access was only given as a member of a Spanish language only tour. You’ll have to take my word for it that the art and religious objects, many dating to the 12th century and earlier, are spectacular and in a state of remarkable preservation. I was allowed to take a picture of the outside and one in the cloister.

Many of the rooms featured massive boards of oak flooring polished to a mirror gloss. The flooring alone was worth the visit and dates to the 1500s. The surface was irregular given the hundreds of years of foot traffic. We walked those floors.

Next I visited the church of Saint Nicholas, patron of Burgos. Again, an incredible collection of sacred artifacts.

Then there was yet another… this time the church and museum of St. Esteban.

As you can see, I am limiting the number of pictures. There are just too many.

Finally, I spent hours within the cathedral, spread between a morning and a separate afternoon visit. Here are just a few notable pictures. A person could spend days wandering from chapel to chapel and museum chamber to museum chamber.

These sculptures, nearly 800 years old, represent the proposal of marriage from King Ferdinand to Queen Beatrice of Swabia.
800 year old sculpture of the four princes.
Looking directly upward at the cathedral vault over 150 feet overhead.

If you want to do a deep dive and refresh your recollection, here is a link to my reflections and photographs from our visit in 2013: https://mediationkc.com/2021/08/25/part-23-burgos-and-our-difficult-conversation/

The cathedral provided an excellent app by which one can view many of the features of the cathedral and listen to an English narrative;

https://apps.apple.com/us/app/visit-burgos-cathedral/id1519659103

I walked over 20,000 steps today, and I was not even “on the Camino“.

Burgos has wonderful pedestrian avenues,

… sculptures that make one laugh,

… hundreds of bars, cafés, and restaurants.

I had a morcilla bocadillo (blood sausage sandwich) at lunch, and tapas for dinner. I’m beginning to feel a desperate need for vegetables!

I’m still chewing on how best to respond to your question. It deserves an honest and well thought out answer. I did get replies today from both messages that I sent the other day.

Sleep well. I’m excited to give you a call tomorrow and know that we are seeing the sun from roughly the same angle.

Love, Me.