Ponferrada, Villafranca del Bierzo and to Vega de Valcarce, June 15-16, 2026.
Dear Followers, Friends, Family, and Christine.
I am catching up on the last two days. Last night we were dog tired and the internet was down at our hostel.
On June 15 Charlie and I proceeded out of Ponferrada.
Unfortunately, we had asked directions and we provided a map that clearly showed the route of the Camino… If you were driving a car. For the first 4 miles we followed a boulevard, straight as a string, and wondered “where did all the pilgrims go?“
We received our answer when 4 miles down the road an uninterrupted column of pilgrims joined our roadway from a path to the far right. They were like a line of ants heading to a picnic lunch.
It has been brutally hot and the sun has beat down upon us like a blowtorch.
Not too bad in the early morning, but by early afternoon we have walked in temperatures at and above the mid 80s. No breeze or shade. Hydration has been critical. Worse is predicted.
We are in a very developed wine region.
Vineyards are everywhere. The following picture mirrors one that I took 13 years ago and often appears in tourist brochures.
As Charlie and I walked through the heat of the day we wondered out loud, “Where are all our Camino friends?“
We were seeing familiar faces, but not those of people with whom we had made a solid connection.
After arriving at our hostel for the night we proceeded to the Plaza Mayor for beer and tapas.
What to our wondering eyes should appear, but Madi from Florida! She jumped up and ran to greet us. Madi had been joined for a couple of days by her mother, Diane. It was a wonderful reunion and I think we nearly brought Diane to tears when we extolled the virtues of her wonderfully mature daughter. Madi no doubt has a bright future ahead of her.
After we joined them at table, who should appear but Michael and Lynn for Australia! A second table was pulled in to accommodate the new “crowd“.
That was not enough. A few minutes later and pilgrims Jim and Katie stood before us. More chairs, another table, and it was a party! It was also a gift from the Camino.
At table we were asked if we had taken a rest day. It seemed that everyone else had. Seeds of a suggestion were planted which took root and sprouted on the walk today.
We have decided it’s time for a rest day before the final 100 km. Therefore, after we visit O’Cebreiro (a tough climb to a high point on the Camino) we will seek out a lodging for two consecutive nights, perhaps at the monastery in Samos. Charlie and I both could use the physical and emotional rest, and fill up our spiritual gas tanks.
A word about our accommodations: On the first night Charlie and I stayed in a conventional albergue. Six beds in a single room with a shared bathroom down the hall.
From that point on we have searched for simple accommodations with the important points being that they include a private room and en suite bathroom.
Many times these have been a privately owned hostel or casa rural. Most of the time the ownership is proud of their simple accommodations, keeping them immaculately clean and comfortable.
Today’s room is no exception. This basic comforts come at a cost of €45-€75 for the room, sometimes including breakfast.
Considering that the dormitory arrangement at an albergue typically costs around €17 per person, it is good value for a significant upgrade in comfort and privacy.
Christine, I am so happy to hear that you and our granddaughter are getting along so well! You are making memories that will last a lifetime. Love, me.
Peace, Everyone and Buen Camino! Pete.
