Written April 23, 2013 at Najera, Spain.
The common lodging for a Peregrino is known as an Albergue. Some are sponsored by the municipality, others by religious organizations, and still others are private-for-profit facilities. The Municipal Albergues tend to be the simplest and least expensive. Cost for a night in an Albergue varies from a donation to from 7 to 15 Euros per person.
An Albergue is a shelter, nothing less, but sometimes more. You are guaranteed a bed. It may be single tiered (rare), two tiered (common), or three tiered, which we have only encountered in Viana. You may or may not have a pillow, sheets, or a blanket. The sleeping room may have as few as 4 people, or over 40. The rooms are usually shared by men and women, with space at a premium. Privacy is the gift that your neighbor gives you as she turns her head while you change your clothes. Etiquette calls upon you to reciprocate. All Albergues promise a sink, toilet, and shower. What constitutes “hot” water may be a bit ambiguous. The better Albergues provide at least one toilet and shower for each 6 Peregrinos, but we have “enjoyed” sharing a toilet with as many as 20 other Pilgrims.
As with the sleeping rooms, bathrooms may be unisex. The feet in the stall next to you may belong to a woman or a man. I have learned that the “fairer sex” can empty a bladder much quicker than a 61 year old man! (Too much information?)
While all of this may sound a bit Spartan, we have come to enjoy the camaraderie, sense of family, and shared sacrifice. One does appreciate the special “luxuries” of fewer bedfellows, larger bathroom facilities, adequate heat, no snoring, no bedbugs…
Life is Good, and my Wife is Great. Love to you all. Have Fun, Do Good, and Be Safe. Buen Camino. Pete (and Chris)
June 8, 2021 at Kansas City.
I thought to draw upon a few images to highlight the stark differences that one may encounter at various albergues.
This first images are of the sleeping room at Villafranca Montes de Oca. The owner of the exclusive Hotel San Anton Abad has walked the Camino. In order to “give something back” to fellow Peregrinos he set aside a wing with 24 beds and ultra-modern facilities for Pilgrim accommodations. The price was 12 Euros per person for the night. We were welcome in the sumptuous bar/lounge and dining room where we were treated by those guests paying hundreds of Euros per night as something of celebrities.
At the other end of the spectrum our albergue in Rabanal del Camino although clean, stretched tolerance by providing a dormitory room with 38 closely spaced bunkbeds. A unisex bathroom with two showers, two toilets, and two sinks made for challenged personal hygiene.
Australian Pilgrim, Jack Webster related to me that as he was showering in a stall in the unisex bath of an albergue he happened to gaze down onto the dark wet polished stone floor. His eyes drew focus on the reflection of a woman who in turn was gazing at his reflection in the floor from the adjoining shower stall. The reality of the situation seemed to strike each of them simultaneously. Jack, being unflappably pragmatic, smiled and waved to the image at his feet. She took the cue, grinned and waved back. They each then went about the task of finishing their showers.
Peace Everyone, and Buen Camino! Pete
Jodi says:
Thank you for sharing this … a great read!!
Pete Schloss says:
Jodi, thank you for reading! If you have not already, I hope you have the chance to read from the beginning. In my mind this began as a smaller project that has grown considerably. I have written 33 “parts” so far and it will likely approach 50 when finished.
caminobrentski says:
I too stayed at the Hotel San Anton Abad. It snowed during the night and we were warned that the Camino was “iced over” and very treacherous. We were counseled to take the bus into Burgos instead… which we did.
Pete Schloss says:
I bet we weren’t more than a day apart!
Liz S says:
Funny story – on our first Camino in 2013 (right behind you in May) we got to Pamplona we decided to treat ourselves to an inexpensive hotel with our own bathroom (so I could soak my swollen knee). It was in that hotel room that we encountered bedbugs for the first time ever! So – it just shows to go that the cost of the room isn’t always an indication of nasty lil blood suckers! ha ha
Pete Schloss says:
Wow! “Knock on wood”, but we dodged those little bastards.
cojim says:
Speaking of albergue facilities, and in particular showers, you surely passed through Grañon, which is between Santo Domingo de la Calzada and Viloria de la Rioja. The main albergue is attached to the local church at the side of the village square. It is very basic, with only sleeping pads to place on the floor instead of the typical bunk beds. But the communal dinner was probably one of the best we experienced for the entire Camino. Following the Pilgrims’ Mass in the church, many of us retired to the choir loft for a peaceful time of meditation and sharing. All-in-all, it was one of our favorite nights on the Camino. Oh yeah, I mentioned the showers — like many of the showers in the various albergues, warm water is a precious commodity. These were different — you had the choice of cold and ice cold!
Pete Schloss says:
We to treasure the friendships that we made through communal dinners. It’s amazing how comfortable the uncomfortable can become!