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We have advanced ship time by one hour on 6 of the last 7 nights. I had imagined that one benefit of traveling to Europe by boat would be avoiding the disruptive “jet lag” that accompanies the sudden change of jumping 6 time zones. I have found, however, that losing an hour of sleep virtually every night for the last week is the Chinese Water Torture equivalent of jet lag. Happily, we are now on Continental Europe time and thus in sync for our first landfall that occurs tomorrow on the island of Madeira.

Over the last week we have made the acquaintance of a number of ship’s staff, performers, and of course passengers. A section of the staterooms on our deck are the assigned responsibility of Augistino and Noni, who are both from Indonesia. They are exceptionally friendly, polite, engaging, and yet professional. They surprised me on the morning of my birthday with a cake, bottle of champagne, and a chocolate Easter Bunny. We have found their dedication to our comfort to be an attribute shared by virtually every staff person aboard. The friendliness is genuine and not cloying. Most are willing to share their personal stories when asked, although I sense that our interest may not be typical among passengers.

One evening we engaged one of the dining servers in conversation at the end of dinner. We were among the last of the patrons to leave, so there was the opportunity for a relaxed conversation. She is from the Philippines, married, and the mother of a 3 year old. She is sailing on the first of 3 intended contacts (a “contract” is a 6 month commitment). Talking of her family we quickly sensed the pain of her separation from them. She explained that she was doing this to fund her daughter’s education and that it was better done now when her daughter would not remember her mother’s absence. Her forethought and sacrifice are remarkable.

One of the performers, a very talented singer from New York, spoke briefly with us the day we boarded. He has recalled our names ever since, and expressed a personal interest in our “story”. Perhaps it is because we came to the ship with backpacks, certainly not typical. We exchanged information and he has done us the honor of reading these “Thoughts”. Conversely, I am fascinated to learn vicariously about the experience of cruising through the eyes of a young entertainer. I hope that there is an opportunity for the 3 of us to talk about life from both sides of the mirror.

Among the passengers we have developed a few friendships that beckon deeper exploration. They are folks we would imagine bonding with at home or on the road. People who have engaged life under similar circumstances, have faced similar challenges, and intuitively understand one another.

This is a vessel populated by folk who are seasoned both by travel and years. We are on the younger side of the spectrum, and compared to most we are cruising “newbies”. Our usual style of travel is likely foreign to most. Conversations often begin with the question about how many cruises has one traveled, how many were Viking, and to what destinations. Where one is from, and what one did/does are much farther down the list. Christine has noted with a relaxed smile that it is not necessary to hold one’s stomach in at poolside!

Last night Christine and I enjoyed drinks and the music of the chamber trio in the Atrium. It was day two of my 66th year. I had posted a picture of my toddler self the day before on Facebook and my “Thoughts”. I mused to Chris the question of whether I would recognize myself if I encountered that child in real life. Would we understand each other… like each other. Would I as that child recognize my 66 year old self?… would I like me, understand me… This was a protracted conversation that brooked the occasional distraction of an eavesdropper that I caught out of the corner of my eye. He sat on the other side of narrowly separated twin pillars. My peripheral vision made him out to be an older white haired gentleman. I tried to ignore him as Christine and I embraced our reflections on life. Finally, the man’s continued intrusion overcame my reluctance and I turned to him face on. We shared an immediate expression of shock as it dawned upon both of us that the slender gap between the pillars was a mirror. The rude passenger who would not quit staring at me, was me. We then smiled at each other and agreed, we like each other. I confess that I don’t always understand him.

Peace Everyone. Pete

PS. The Viking Mead Horn is my birthday present from Christine.

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(The little guy pictured above was born sixty-six years ago tomorrow.)

As of noon today we are 2,000 miles east of Miami, 2,000 miles south of Greenland and the same latitude as the southernmost Canary Islands. It is growing cooler with today’s high temperature reaching 76 degrees. We are continuing under the influence of a high pressure system that graces us with mostly sunny skies, a steady wind out of the NNW. Seas present an even and pleasant 8-10 foot swell at regular intervals that make for excellent sleeping. Mal de mer is a problem for only the most susceptible. It’s a crystal clear full moon night right now as we glide northeast at 20 knots.

With this post I am including some images of the art that is on display throughout the ship. Pieces include historical Viking artifacts that are over 1,000 years old. Enjoy, and of course…

Peace Everyone! Pete

PS. As an aside, tomorrow, April 1st, is my 66th birthday, and what a remarkable way to celebrate this milestone! I only wish that my entire family could be here to celebrate it with Christine and me.

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Among today’s activities there are three that I wish to highlight.

Christine and I enjoyed “high tea” in the English tradition at 4 pm. Service included dense scones, delightful pastries, finger sandwiches (what do they do wit the crusts?) and of course choice teas. This is an everyday tradition aboard Viking vessels.

The ships Atrium is a remarkable event space amidships. 3 stories tall and featuring a grand stairway at one end. This elegant venue is the social heartbeat of the ship. One has an unobstructed view of both port and starboard. The space contains an impressive art collection and ancient Viking artifacts. Towering above the staircase is a huge HD screen that rotates images, often of nature, or pieces by a featured artist. This evening that artist was Edvard Munch. We were treated to a display of a few of the most famous of his over 2,000 works concurrently with a classical piano performance. A full color booklet provided the historical background of each painting. I have included some of the images, most notably, “The Scream”.

Finally, we had an exceptional dinner at the Italian themed gourmet restaurant, Manfredi’s. Christine had a chilled cucumber soup and incredible Bistecca Florentine (garlic and oil rubbed rib-eye), while I was in heaven with a creamed pumpkin and smoked haddock soup followed by Tagliata Di Anatra (marinated and grilled duck). I’m omitting the numerous accompaniments.

All in all, a very “Good Friday”.

Peace Everyone! Pete

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Mark Twain wrote, “Travel is fatal to prejudice, bigotry, and narrow-mindedness, and many of our people need it sorely on these accounts. Broad, wholesome, charitable views of men and things cannot be acquired by vegetating in one little corner of the earth all one’s lifetime.”

Sadly, travel is not a universally effective cure for those maladies.

We were joined at table for dinner two nights ago by two couples. Like virtually everyone aboard, these folks were seasoned travelers. Christine and I seem a bit unique as we have traveled only one other cruise together and never with Viking. We have found that most people we have spoken with are cruise veterans and Viking “frequent fliers”.

In the course of enjoying our meal, conversation wandered across a broad range of topics. It was inevitable that travel experiences would be among them. One of the ladies began to speak derogatorily about “those Chinese”. She exercised no restraint in assigning a whole list of negative characteristics to over one billion souls, oblivious to the possibility that those characteristics might not apply to every person of Chinese descent. More disturbing was that many of the highly professional wait staff are oriental and one of these servers was tending another table immediately behind and within easy earshot of the lady.

Christine and I exchanged glances and using our spousal ESP, jointly began talking about one of our favorite topics, grandchildren.

Thankfully, we were successful in redirecting the conversation, or so we thought. When it came out that we had 10 grands and that the births included a set of twins and a set of quads, the gentleman from the other couple quipped, “Well, you folks are certainly doing your part to preserve the white race!”

Dinner was near its end, as was our association with those folks at table. I am usually one who does not want my silence to be misunderstood as an affirmation of something another person has said. Under the circumstances, I have concluded that silence and declining to further engage in conversation was the appropriate course.

I believe the evenings experience to be an aberration. Assemble 900 random people and the spectrum of beliefs and prejudices will be well represented. Our friendships are not random and so we tend to be surrounded by like minded acquaintances. It is worth remembering that our personal beliefs are like the ocean horizon, other beliefs do exist well beyond the range of our own, and are held as firmly by others as we hold to ours.

One a much lighter note:

The day included early morning exercises, breakfast in our room, a lecture on pirate history (really fascinating! Spain and a Portugal looted over 500 billion dollars of wealth from the indigenous people, that’s as measured in current dollars, the largest transfer of wealth to that point in history.), team trivial pursuit, and high tea. Music in the Atrium, then dinner tonight at 8, followed by a performance by tenor Lee Bradley.

Peace Everyone! Pete

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Our ship made its first of 5 ports of call today on the island of St. Maarten. A small island of approximately 38 square miles it is cooperatively divided between the Netherlands and France. One island where the residents may freely travel without border restrictions, but each side has wholly separate power generation, water desalination, and infrastructure. A telephone call between residents separated by a few hundred feet incurs international call rates. One thing that the political border could not contain was the fury of Hurricane Irma. Category 5, and with sustained winds of 240 mph, nothing in recorded memory has been her equal here for sheer destruction. It has been over 6 months and twisted metal, collapsed buildings and destroyed vessels are everywhere. I have chosen to highlight the islands beauty rather than the challenges that remain for these good people. Tourism is their lifeblood and fortunately it is returning, witness 3 cruise ships in port today. One of those vessels is the behemoth Royal Caribbean Oasis Sea at over 5 times the gross tonnage and 6 times the passenger capacity of our ship, it was a sight to behold when she discharged her 6,000 passengers!

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We continue to familiarize ourselves with our vessel and fellow passengers. While swimming in the “infinity pool” (its end is plexiglas and seems to hang off the end of the ship, inviting a swim into infinity) we met George, who in the 90’s lived just a few miles from where I grew up. Small world.

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The ship has an excellent gym. I and a few fellow passengers were there this morning at 6am. I suspect we will all be regulars at that hour. Breakfast follows for me, courtesy of room service.

Last night we dined in “The Restaurant”, which is the ship’s general dinner venue. It is elegant and “5-Star” by our estimation. That experience was exceeded this evening in the more intimate “Chef’s Table”. I have included an image of the menu and wine pairings which are themed and change daily. The cuisine and service were impeccable!

We are beyond sight of land for the next 6 days as we cross the Atlantic. Gazing in any direction confronts one with the stark demarcation of sea and sky. It is unambiguous and uninterrupted. Little else in life can lay claim to such unyielding clarity.

Peace Everyone. Pete