Author: Pete Schloss

Denial and Acceptance. Burgos, Spain.

Posted on by Pete Schloss

Dear Christine, Renee’, Family, and Followers.

“ God grant me the serenity to accept the things that I cannot change…”

Some of you have sensed an undercurrent in my posts. Reading between the lines you have reached out to me to see if I am OK.

First of all, thank you for your concern. Secondly, I am not OK. I have done my best to put a publicly optimistic and positive spin on our experience. The brave front began crumbling more than a week ago. It collapsed about three days ago.

I reached out to Christine and Renee’ and told them that I could not go any further. The morning pain, leg spasms, and limitations on movement have become extreme. I have seen how it has become unsettling for Britton to see my struggle. One morning he voiced, “It’s getting worse isn’t it Grandpa. Are you going to have to have surgery?”

This is not just a matter of listening to my body, but also of being responsible for the care of my Grandson.

…”the courage to change the things I can…”

I have secured 1st class train tickets from Burgos to Barcelona. We depart Thursday afternoon for the 6 hour trip. We have a hotel room reserved at the airport. I was able to cancel our pre-arranged accommodations in Santiago and Barcelona without charge.

I was able to exchange out July 15th tickets to visit the Sagrada Familia for June 28th tickets. This despite the tickets originally being non-refundable and non-modifiable.

Christine was able to change our return flight from July to this weekend. Somehow she got us upgraded from Premium Select seats to 1st Class/Delta One. The seats make into beds. The upgrade cost… $35 for each of us. Christine is a magician.

…”and the Wisdom to know the difference.”

It has been said that with age comes wisdom. Perhaps. In my case with age comes a well used and occasionally abused spine. That is the price of a life well lived.

Pilgrimage in general and the Camino in particular is first and foremost a journey, not just a destination.

Britton and I have shared a remarkable time together, almost a month in France and Spain.

I have witnessed him rapidly grow into full partnership with me on the Camino. He and I have covered nearly 300km together. Most exciting for me is to hear him voice his desire and intention to return and complete the journey, perhaps with his Mother and one or more siblings. He has become a real Peregrino, a 15 year old Camino zealot.

I am at peace with my decision and I have no regrets. Everything that is truly important has been achieved. The seeds of pilgrimage have been planted. How they grow, how they mature, and what fruit is finally harvested are matters that were never in my hands.

Love to all of you. Peace. Pete.

Burgos, Day One

Posted on by Pete Schloss

Dear Christine and Renee’.

We arrived in Burgos yesterday, Tuesday.

The Hotel Norte y Londres is as convenient, comfortable, and welcoming as ever.

I have unhesitatingly recommended it to pilgrims along the way, a few of which have chosen to be guests here instead of lodging at one of the many albergues here in Burgos.

Burgos is a town where one should pause, rest, and reflect.

Teresa is still managing the hotel. She greeted me and welcomed Britton as if we were dear friends, perhaps even family.

She still remembers you and me from 2013 and me from 2022. I commented to Britton that it is amazing that someone would remember us from just a couple of brief encounters over the years. His reply, “No it isn’t”.

Teresa pulled a few strings and arranged for me to have a massage today.

After we checked in, I left Britton to shower, rest, and connect with his friends and his family. I gathered up the laundry and was off to a nearby laundromat.

We were past due for clean clothes.

Apparently one should not wash pets in the machines. 🤣

Monday and Tuesday have been very reminiscent of last days on the Camino. Christine, recall how often in the past we would turn a corner and virtually walk into dear people with whom we had made a deep connection.

On this Camino Britton has become his own person rather than walking in my shadow. He personally feels the momentary joy of these chance encounters, and upon parting the sadness of not knowing whether he will ever see these good people again.

The countries that these Camino friends represent include: The Netherlands, Germany, Ireland, France, New Zealand, Australia, the United States, Canada, the United Kingdom, Italy, and Poland. There are others.

This is heady stuff for any adult let alone a 15-year-old.

Yesterday we toured the Cathedral.

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The expression on Britton’s face said it all, awe inspiring. These few pictures hardly do the Cathedral justice.

Courtyard in the cloister 
Looking straight up at the main tower and the intricate stonework 
The treasury holds a seemingly endless collection of precious items. 
The main altar 
The crypt and final resting place of a long departed royal couple.
This chamber displays the portraits of every bishop in the Cathedral’s history 
The Golden staircase 

The Papamoscas clock. A mechanical automaton that moves at the hour and quarter hours

Witek and Kasia, our Camino friends from Poland, are also staying here at the hotel. Kasia is trying to work through painful tendon issues with her ankle. At the moment further progress for them on the Camino is an unknown.

We met them at the Cathedral for our tour and later for dinner at a highly regarded restaurant near the hotel.

Our plan had been to enjoy dining on the outdoor terrace, but thunderstorms drove us inside. The rain did not depreciate the evening experience with these wonderful people.

Seafood paella and wine 
Britton’s dessert, an ice cream float with some (perhaps high octane) orange juice. 

When dinner concluded they would not let me pay. The dinner was their treat and gift to our friendship.

They have spent significant time on the island of Malta. Their description and pictures are captivating. I think that you and I should explore this as a future destination, perhaps even meeting Witek and Kasia there!

As I write this, Britton is enjoying sleeping-in for the first time on this journey. I am enjoying writing this with the day yet to unfold rather than burning the midnight oil and shorting myself on needed sleep. It is still strange for me to imagine that while it is 8:30 in the morning here it is 1:30 AM in Kansas City.

I wish you restful sleep and sweet dreams. Love to you both. Peace. Dad

PS. Sarah at Ultreia Osteopatia y Acupuntura here in Burgos gave me a wonderful and pain relieving massage. Thank you Sarah and thank you Teresa for making the appointment for me!

Sarah.

Villafranca Montes de Oca

Posted on by Pete Schloss

Dear Christine and Renee.

A short day today. Some clouds but mostly blue skies and pleasant temperatures.

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We had a mostly uneventful hike and are staying tonight at the elegant Hotel-Albergue San Anton Abad.

The view from the Hotel grounds 
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The dining room 

You and I were here in 2013, but lodged in the Albergue. Remember that it snowed the next morning? No chance of that happening this time.

Britton and I are in the Hotel portion. Breakfast is included and late departure is permitted.

There is a pilgrim we have encountered periodically, Brenda from New Zealand. She is around my age, walking solo, and usually distinctive for her bright yellow-green attire, Think School Crossing Guard.

Britton and I stopped for a bite at a small cafe in an equally small village. On one of the outdoor tables I spotted a pair of bright yellow-green sunglasses. The proprietor didn’t know who they belonged to, and with his permission I took them, certain they were Brenda’s.

This is Brenda. She is not wearing her walking attire. We happen to see her at dinner. 

I figured that we might see her in Burgos, but she is quite a speedy lady. As luck would have it she is staying here at the same rural hotel as us. Indeed, they were her glasses which she had given up as lost forever. My good deed for the day.

We also again got to walk with Rocío, the very pleasant Spanish lady from 2 days ago.

Again an amazing “coincidence“, she also was at dinner. The gentleman beside her is a French pilgrim who walks pulling a small cart that carries his bag. 

We were still close to the highway noise and the day included a fair amount of elevation gain.

This ancient stone bridge is still up to supporting the biggest of loads 
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There were also a LOT of bicycle pilgrims.

I will let my pictures and captions offer details.

Love to both of you. Peace. Dad.

As we left town, there were dozens of monuments commemorating famous people who had walked the Camino through town. This one was a 7 foot tall Spanish Olympic basketball player. 
A random mural 
Former hermit caves? 
One of the many fountains in the countryside. They are safe to drink unless marked otherwise. 
The ruins of a monastery that dates to the 9th century.
This picture gives you an idea of the scale. 
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Another town, another church. 

Belorado and Blood Sausage

Posted on by Pete Schloss

Dear Christine and Renee.

Today was a long day, often soulless as the Camino tracked for many kilometers alongside a busy stretch of highway.

There were bright spots. A wonderful little food truck, permanently in place with a garden and picnic tables.

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Soft music played in the background as a peaceful accompaniment to coffee and a chocolate croissant.

The surrounding hills and farm fields were eye candy, the cars and trucks thundering along on the nearby highway were not so kind to the ears.

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There were four small communities evenly spaced between our start and finish.

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Each features its own unique church. Viloria de la Rioja is reputed to be the birthplace of Santo Domingo (1019-1109). The baptism fount (9th century?) by which he was christened is displayed in the church.

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As we entered Belorado we passed a “different” albergue. Large colorful wood cutouts of pilgrims “trucking along” like the 1970’s Mr. Natural are the advertisement of choice. How I date myself!

Our hotel in Belorado features a nice restaurant where we ate a better than average pilgrim’s dinner. We are in a region where each town features its own version of Morcilla, blood sausage with rice and spices mixed in. Britton loved it!

Somehow we rated a room with four beds and a private bath.

There is a real bathtub. I enjoyed a hot soak which was real medicine for my back.

We are next to the town church and cliff caves which once were home to medieval hermits.

Atop the church bell tower are huge stork nests.

Tomorrow is much shorter than today and precedes our arrival into Burgos.

Loved you both. Peace. Dad.

The Goldilocks Day. Santo Domingo Del La Calzada

Posted on by Pete Schloss

Dear Christine and Renee’.

Today was a Goldilocks day: Not too hot, not too cold, not too far, not too short, not too sunny, not too cloudy. It was just right.

For vast stretches of the walk today we could see lines of pilgrims ahead and behind us.

This was mostly farmland with no fountains or significant rest spots in between the start and finish of the day.

One exception was a man who had set up a stand for refreshments, accepting donations for his offerings.

Another exception was walking into the town which had been developed as a golf resort community. When we were here in 2013 it was largely vacant… a ghost town. Today there were a few golfers, but most of the buildings were still uninhabited.

Our Polish friends have gone ahead, Kasia to Burgos, where she will be resting her tendinitis, and Witek to the next town beyond us.

We walked much of a day with a very friendly young Spanish woman, Rocío.

She has spent the last 8 years working in Yorkshire, England, and thus speaks good English. She was a delight!.

Our rooms for the night are courtesy of a community of Cisterciense Nuns.

The simple but spotless room was likely an accommodation for two sisters in the past. A crucifix looks over us from above the beds.The facility has been converted to a simple pilgrims hotel. Our room with dinner and breakfast totaled €100. Dinner is tonight after Mass in the Cathedral.

Britton and I toured the Cathedral, the Cathedral, Museum, and Crypt where Santo Domingo is laid to rest.

Most fascinating to us was the Bell Tower which is the tallest in the province, the tower clock which is the oldest working one in the province, and the magnificent bells which overlook the city.

We were standing under the bells when they tolled 5 o’clock.

My ears are still ringing and it’s not just tinnitus!

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There is a minor controversy on the Camino. It has long been the case that a pilgrim walking the last 100 km is entitled to Compostela, as is a bicyclist or horseman who ride the last 200 km. These days electric bicycles have become very popular.

I estimate that half of the bicycles we see proceeding to Santiago with packs are electrically assisted.

Should they be entitled to Compostela? Therein lies the controversy. Britton’s thoughts, of which I tend to agree, are that a bicycle (electric or not) is not different than a horse which transports the rider. He votes that the e-bikes should qualify.

Britton and I have begun transporting our packs each day. In my case it is a matter of preservation given the pain in my back each morning. With Britton it is just a matter of fairness on my part.

As we near Burgos and our transport to Leon I am becoming sensitive to another controversy, what qualifies as a “real pilgrim“. Perhaps it is my imagination, but I think that I have sensed some silent disapproval from a pilgrim here and there.

Do you remember “Pat“ from New York who in 2013 voiced that a “real pilgrim“ does not transport their pack and walks every step of the way. About halfway to Santiago we observed her transporting by taxi cab! Perhaps that was a bit of karma.

Thank you for arranging the appointments with the orthopedic physician, massage therapist, and Chiropractor the day after our return. I hope that there is something that can be done to alleviate this difficulty. 72 years and my family genetics are definitely catching up to me.

Tomorrow is a long day, but the weather looks to still favor us. I understand that Kansas City is suffering under a terrible heat wave. Please stay cool and take good care of yourselves.

Love you both. Peace. Dad

The view from our room tonight: