At O Coto (near Melide), June 22, 2026.

Dear Followers, Friends, Family, and Christine.

Christine, I wish I could say something other than that it is hot as hell, but it is… Hot as Hell!

A delightful group of older women from Malaysia were enjoying a rest and cool drinks in the course of their walk. We engaged in a conversation and I commented how I understand that this weather is not normal in Spain. One of the women responded with a bright smile, “There’s a lot that’s not normal in your country too!“ We all had a good laugh.

Charlie and I have avoided the news except for the unavoidable headlines that appear on our cell phones. I think the peace of the Camino demands it.

Typically the days start cool with temperatures in low to mid 60s, but with humidity approaching 100%. By noon the sun has cut through the haze, temperatures have soared to approximately 20 degrees above seasonal norms. Humidity drops accordingly.

With today’s hike concluded we have only three more before we walk into Santiago. Each of these coming stages are a little over 20 km long. Rain, which we have thus far entirely avoided, appears in the forecast on the 24th and 25th. Fingers crossed that our luck continues.

The plan is that on the 25th we will walk to the Cathedral and after getting a final stamp in our credentials we will proceed to the bus depot and catch transportation to Finisterra. We have arranged one night lodging in Finisterra, transportation to Muxia, a night in Muxia, and then again transportation back to Santiago. We should arrive there the second time around 1 o’clock the afternoon of the 27th. We will check into the hotel and then anxiously await your arrival!

We again shared an albergue and dinner with our young friend, Madi. She has moved on ahead of us today. It is hoped that she will join us and meet you the evening of the 27th in Santiago. 

I hope you enjoy today’s pictures. I’m so happy that our daughter and her three children have arrived safely to join you and her daughter on the Amalfi coast. Love, Me.

Peace Everyone and Buen Camino. Pete.

At Eirexe, June 21, 2026.

Dear Followers, Friends, Family, and Christine.

Christine… HAPPY FATHERS DAY to me, and thank you for the gift of children!! It is also the longest day of the year.

Another brutally hot day. I fear for Europe and perhaps for the Midwestern United States this summer.

We have had very limited Wi-Fi and cell signals, so I am going to limit my comments to captions on the photographs:

Love you, Christine

Peace Everyone. Buen Camino. Pete.

At Barbadelo, June 19, 2026.

Dear Followers, Friends, Family, and Christine.

Christine… HAPPY ANNIVERSARY!! #49.

We will have to do a better job of advanced planning so that these milestones are spent together. Next year, 1/2 century, for sure!

For Charlie and me we are closing in on the homestretch. We don’t hit the 100 km to Santiago today, but on June 20 it will happen. We have covered nearly 400 km to date.

Today began with lower temperatures and 100% humidity.

When the sun came out the temperatures soared, the humidity plummeted, and I was soaking wet first from condensation and later from sweat.

Nearly 20 km with our packs and paradise awaited us in the form of the best albergue so far on this Camino: Barbadelo.

Better still was Madi joining us for dinner. The three of us spent over two hours in nonstop conversation.

Whatever generational divide “should” have existed evaporated in the first five minutes.

Tomorrow is 20km to Portomarín. In the course of that stage we will pass the 100 km countdown mark to Santiago. In order to qualify for the Compostela (certificate) it necessary for the pilgrim to cover the last 100 km as a continuous journey.

Charlie and I spent an hour pre-booking accommodations to Santiago, and coastal villages of Finisterra, and Muxia. We anticipate that the number of pilgrims on the trail will increase dramatically after Sarria.

Christine, wishes for safe travel to Naples for you and our granddaughter. Love, and thank you for a magical 49 years!

Peace Everyone and Buen Camino. Pete.

Samos, June 18, 2026.

Dear Followers, Friends, Family, and Christine.

Today, Charlie and I took our first rest day. Tomorrow we are on to Barbadelo and the last 100 km to Santiago.

We toured the Benedictine Monastery at Samos. Monasterio de San Julián de Samos was founded in the 6th Century.

This huge facility has a current population of less than 20 monks. I imagine that vast areas are vacant and perhaps even neglected.

However, the church and side chapels are magnificent as is the vestry.

The halls are covered in incredible murals.

Over the ages, the monastery has suffered fires, the most recent of which was in 1951. Like the mythical Phoenix, it continues to rise from the ashes.

Unfortunately, the tour was entirely in Spanish. My choices were either to try and follow along on a translation app or to take pictures. Pictures won.

This is one of the largest and oldest monasteries in Europe. To provide some details and context here is a link to an article in Wikipedia:

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Monastery_of_San_Xulián_de_Samos

The Wikipedia article also has a link to the monastery website, which is in Spanish. Translation is available.

Christine, I am thinking of you. 49 years ago today you became my wife. Love, me.

Peace, Everyone and Buen Camino. Pete.

Vega de Valcarce to O Cebreiro June 16-17, 2026.

Dear Followers, Friends, Family, and Christine.

Vega de Valcarce is larger than many of the villages that we have stayed in. It has a population of a little more than 500. It seemed to have everything we needed including our wonderful hostel: Two pharmacies, two markets, a bakery, and two cafés. Unfortunately, it only had one evening restaurant.

Our host Ana had sent us a text message advising that the restaurant was closed for one night, our night.

It was to market for us where we acquired a sumptuous picnic dinner that was sufficient to provide us with breakfast the following morning.

Bread, cheeses, meats, beer snacks, apples, chocolate, and of course excellent local wine.

We dined on our terrace, serenaded by the nearby murmuring stream.

A short time later, we were joined by Germans, Dennis and Galena. They brought beer, more snacks, and great company. They spoke excellent English, yet I enjoyed wandering into and out of German with them. (Tina, du wärst stolz.)

The next morning, June 17, Charlie and I metaphorically “girded our loins” (put on our packs and grabbed our trekking poles), preparing to do battle with the climb to O Cebreiro.

Hot and humid, the ascent was daunting. Over 2000 feet of elevation gain in 12 km. O Cebreiro would be our reward at the end.

Early in the climb we walked along a very narrow but steep country road. We were forced to step aside, a deep ravine to our backs, as a car made its way past us. My eye caught the woman passenger frantically waving at us through the glass. “Charlie, what was that all about?”

A few seconds later, I had my answer. At a wider spot in the road the car stopped and the passenger door flew open. Diane, Camino friend Madi‘s mom, jumped from the car yelling “Pete and Charlie!“

We visited long enough for an introduction to Tyler (Diane’s husband) a hug (from Diane), an update on Madi’s progress, and a selfie. Just one of those Camino miracles.

The second part of the “Camino miracle” occurred in O Cebreiro where we found Madi!

Another hug, more updates, and another selfie. Charlie and I hope that this young lady will stay in touch so that we can vicariously enjoy the progress of her life.

O Cebreiro is an ancient place.

The church was founded as a pilgrim refuge in the mid 800’s, just a few years after the discovery of the remains of Saint James (Santiago).

Inside the church there are venerated relics of a 12th century miracle.

During a vicious snowstorm, a Shepherd fought his way to the church to attend Mass and receive the Eucharist. The priest, not a very holy man, berated the Shepherd for his stupidity. However, during the consecration the bread and wine turned to literal flesh and blood. The blood permanently stained the altar cloth. The communion vessels and the altar cloth remain displayed in a side chapel and are venerated for their religious and historical significance.

Love to you, Christine.

Peace Everyone and Buen Camino. Pete.