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We are again on land with a day in Tangier. This is our first visit to Africa. Morocco is the only country in Africa with shores on the Atlantic Ocean and Mediterranean Sea. We are a scant 20 minutes south of Spain by high speed Ferry, which service runs hourly.

This is a place where cultures have clashed for millennia, each leaving a cumulative footprint. The Berbers are considered the indigenous people. Invaders have included the Phoenicians approximately 3,500 years ago, followed by the Carthaginians, Romans, Visigoths, Arabs, Portuguese, English, Spanish, and French. Morocco was a French colony during much of the 20th Century and most signage in Tangier is posted in Arabic and French.

We participated in a 3 hour guided walking tour of the Kasbah, formerly a walled fortress and now a bewildering maze of narrow winding walkways where multi-story buildings that date back hundreds of years seem to lean in on you from all sides. Most are residences in the upper levels, with the first floors presenting an array of shops themed for the needs of tourists and locals alike. Our tour included a visit to the Kasbah Museum, housed in the former palace that dates to the late 17th Century. Within the Kasbah is a Catholic Cathedral, a Jewish Synagog, and of course a number of Mosques, one of which dates to the 1200’s.

At the conclusion of the guided tour Christine and I continued wandering solo. We were seeking an authentic Moroccan restaurant frequented by locals rather than tourists. As we perused a map a young teenage boy approached us offering assistance. This was Anwar. He spoke excellent English and seemed nothing more than a Good Samaritan. He knew “just the place” and proceeded to lead us since he had “nothing else to do”. What we didn’t first perceive was that Anwar had made us his “thing to do”. We arrived at a fine restaurant after 30 minutes of following Anwar… who kept promising “its just ahead a little bit more”. It began to dawn on us that Anwar had designated himself as our hired guide, especially when he sat down to eat lunch with us!

The meal was wonderful, certainly authentic, and at 40 euros a bit pricey. We didn’t get tagged for Anwar’s meal, but we suspect that the restaurant comped it for him as he was responsible for bringing in paying customers (us). After lunch we did finally part ways, and I did “grease” Anwar’s palm.

I understand that his initial “help” is easily misunderstood. Our culture associates acts of kindness with the virtue of charity. Anwar has been raised to equate kindness with compensated service. Similarly, the vendors who incessantly approached us misconstrue our curiosity about an item or its price as a commitment to purchase, with only the final price to be agreed upon.

Where cultures clash, tempers may flair. It is not because someone was wrong and someone was right. It is just because each has failed to presume in favor of the best intentions of the other.

السلام الجميع (Alslam Aljmy… Peace Everyone!) Pete

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Camino Moments, Camino Angels

Many of those who have walked the Camino understand “Camino Moments and Camino Angels”. They are the odd, near daily experiences that beg explanation. They are the chance encounter with a stranger that presents a solution to a difficulty.

The opulence of our current circumstances is the antithesis of a pilgrimage on the Camino, yet our host in Puerto Rico secured Pilgrim Credentials for us that declared our journey to have begun in San Juan. We were thwarted in our effort to obtain a “sello” (stamp) in the San Juan Cathedral until the intersession of a stranger there.

Today, we sought to obtain a sello at the Cathedral in Funchal. Again, we were turned away. However, a little older woman who spoke no English beckoned for us to follow her. We did for half a block to an obscure doorway outside at the far end of the Cathedral. This was not a public entry and there were no signs to indicate the business of that door. She motioned for us to remain just outside. We could tell that she climbed some stairs before returning to us. She knocked on an interior door, and eventually the door opened. A hand extended to her and she gave that person our Credentials. A few minutes later the unseen person returned our Credentials to her, and she handed them to us… now bearing the official stamp of the Cathedral of Funchal.

This was a very moving experience for both of us. What we sought was beyond our grasp, but not of a stranger’s reach who interceded on our behalf… a Camino Angel. In life there are no coincidences.

The island of Madeira is a paradise. It was unpopulated and undiscovered until 600 years ago. It is politically a part of Portugal, but consists of 4 islands that lay 600 miles southwest of the mainland. It has a total population of about 300,000. The major drivers of its economy are tourism, the production of miniature bananas (think banana chips, liquor, and niche foods), and of course the remarkable (and remarkably strong!) Madeira Wine. Over 40% of its energy is produced by wind, solar, and hydroelectric generators.

Our wanderings today took us to a glass walkway that hangs out atop the highest sea cliff in Europe, 1,800 feet above the shore. We enjoyed simple sandwiches made in the local fashion, a glass of Madeira wine, the local beer, and the fragrance of the flowers that abound everywhere. On the way back to our ship we encountered a replica of Columbus’s flagship the Santa Maria which sails (actually motors) tourists around the harbor 3 times a day.

We are back to sea with Tangier Morocco our next destination, scheduled for landfall this coming Friday.

Peace Everyone. Pete

 

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We have advanced ship time by one hour on 6 of the last 7 nights. I had imagined that one benefit of traveling to Europe by boat would be avoiding the disruptive “jet lag” that accompanies the sudden change of jumping 6 time zones. I have found, however, that losing an hour of sleep virtually every night for the last week is the Chinese Water Torture equivalent of jet lag. Happily, we are now on Continental Europe time and thus in sync for our first landfall that occurs tomorrow on the island of Madeira.

Over the last week we have made the acquaintance of a number of ship’s staff, performers, and of course passengers. A section of the staterooms on our deck are the assigned responsibility of Augistino and Noni, who are both from Indonesia. They are exceptionally friendly, polite, engaging, and yet professional. They surprised me on the morning of my birthday with a cake, bottle of champagne, and a chocolate Easter Bunny. We have found their dedication to our comfort to be an attribute shared by virtually every staff person aboard. The friendliness is genuine and not cloying. Most are willing to share their personal stories when asked, although I sense that our interest may not be typical among passengers.

One evening we engaged one of the dining servers in conversation at the end of dinner. We were among the last of the patrons to leave, so there was the opportunity for a relaxed conversation. She is from the Philippines, married, and the mother of a 3 year old. She is sailing on the first of 3 intended contacts (a “contract” is a 6 month commitment). Talking of her family we quickly sensed the pain of her separation from them. She explained that she was doing this to fund her daughter’s education and that it was better done now when her daughter would not remember her mother’s absence. Her forethought and sacrifice are remarkable.

One of the performers, a very talented singer from New York, spoke briefly with us the day we boarded. He has recalled our names ever since, and expressed a personal interest in our “story”. Perhaps it is because we came to the ship with backpacks, certainly not typical. We exchanged information and he has done us the honor of reading these “Thoughts”. Conversely, I am fascinated to learn vicariously about the experience of cruising through the eyes of a young entertainer. I hope that there is an opportunity for the 3 of us to talk about life from both sides of the mirror.

Among the passengers we have developed a few friendships that beckon deeper exploration. They are folks we would imagine bonding with at home or on the road. People who have engaged life under similar circumstances, have faced similar challenges, and intuitively understand one another.

This is a vessel populated by folk who are seasoned both by travel and years. We are on the younger side of the spectrum, and compared to most we are cruising “newbies”. Our usual style of travel is likely foreign to most. Conversations often begin with the question about how many cruises has one traveled, how many were Viking, and to what destinations. Where one is from, and what one did/does are much farther down the list. Christine has noted with a relaxed smile that it is not necessary to hold one’s stomach in at poolside!

Last night Christine and I enjoyed drinks and the music of the chamber trio in the Atrium. It was day two of my 66th year. I had posted a picture of my toddler self the day before on Facebook and my “Thoughts”. I mused to Chris the question of whether I would recognize myself if I encountered that child in real life. Would we understand each other… like each other. Would I as that child recognize my 66 year old self?… would I like me, understand me… This was a protracted conversation that brooked the occasional distraction of an eavesdropper that I caught out of the corner of my eye. He sat on the other side of narrowly separated twin pillars. My peripheral vision made him out to be an older white haired gentleman. I tried to ignore him as Christine and I embraced our reflections on life. Finally, the man’s continued intrusion overcame my reluctance and I turned to him face on. We shared an immediate expression of shock as it dawned upon both of us that the slender gap between the pillars was a mirror. The rude passenger who would not quit staring at me, was me. We then smiled at each other and agreed, we like each other. I confess that I don’t always understand him.

Peace Everyone. Pete

PS. The Viking Mead Horn is my birthday present from Christine.

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(The little guy pictured above was born sixty-six years ago tomorrow.)

As of noon today we are 2,000 miles east of Miami, 2,000 miles south of Greenland and the same latitude as the southernmost Canary Islands. It is growing cooler with today’s high temperature reaching 76 degrees. We are continuing under the influence of a high pressure system that graces us with mostly sunny skies, a steady wind out of the NNW. Seas present an even and pleasant 8-10 foot swell at regular intervals that make for excellent sleeping. Mal de mer is a problem for only the most susceptible. It’s a crystal clear full moon night right now as we glide northeast at 20 knots.

With this post I am including some images of the art that is on display throughout the ship. Pieces include historical Viking artifacts that are over 1,000 years old. Enjoy, and of course…

Peace Everyone! Pete

PS. As an aside, tomorrow, April 1st, is my 66th birthday, and what a remarkable way to celebrate this milestone! I only wish that my entire family could be here to celebrate it with Christine and me.

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Among today’s activities there are three that I wish to highlight.

Christine and I enjoyed “high tea” in the English tradition at 4 pm. Service included dense scones, delightful pastries, finger sandwiches (what do they do wit the crusts?) and of course choice teas. This is an everyday tradition aboard Viking vessels.

The ships Atrium is a remarkable event space amidships. 3 stories tall and featuring a grand stairway at one end. This elegant venue is the social heartbeat of the ship. One has an unobstructed view of both port and starboard. The space contains an impressive art collection and ancient Viking artifacts. Towering above the staircase is a huge HD screen that rotates images, often of nature, or pieces by a featured artist. This evening that artist was Edvard Munch. We were treated to a display of a few of the most famous of his over 2,000 works concurrently with a classical piano performance. A full color booklet provided the historical background of each painting. I have included some of the images, most notably, “The Scream”.

Finally, we had an exceptional dinner at the Italian themed gourmet restaurant, Manfredi’s. Christine had a chilled cucumber soup and incredible Bistecca Florentine (garlic and oil rubbed rib-eye), while I was in heaven with a creamed pumpkin and smoked haddock soup followed by Tagliata Di Anatra (marinated and grilled duck). I’m omitting the numerous accompaniments.

All in all, a very “Good Friday”.

Peace Everyone! Pete