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Mark Twain wrote, “Travel is fatal to prejudice, bigotry, and narrow-mindedness, and many of our people need it sorely on these accounts. Broad, wholesome, charitable views of men and things cannot be acquired by vegetating in one little corner of the earth all one’s lifetime.”

Sadly, travel is not a universally effective cure for those maladies.

We were joined at table for dinner two nights ago by two couples. Like virtually everyone aboard, these folks were seasoned travelers. Christine and I seem a bit unique as we have traveled only one other cruise together and never with Viking. We have found that most people we have spoken with are cruise veterans and Viking “frequent fliers”.

In the course of enjoying our meal, conversation wandered across a broad range of topics. It was inevitable that travel experiences would be among them. One of the ladies began to speak derogatorily about “those Chinese”. She exercised no restraint in assigning a whole list of negative characteristics to over one billion souls, oblivious to the possibility that those characteristics might not apply to every person of Chinese descent. More disturbing was that many of the highly professional wait staff are oriental and one of these servers was tending another table immediately behind and within easy earshot of the lady.

Christine and I exchanged glances and using our spousal ESP, jointly began talking about one of our favorite topics, grandchildren.

Thankfully, we were successful in redirecting the conversation, or so we thought. When it came out that we had 10 grands and that the births included a set of twins and a set of quads, the gentleman from the other couple quipped, “Well, you folks are certainly doing your part to preserve the white race!”

Dinner was near its end, as was our association with those folks at table. I am usually one who does not want my silence to be misunderstood as an affirmation of something another person has said. Under the circumstances, I have concluded that silence and declining to further engage in conversation was the appropriate course.

I believe the evenings experience to be an aberration. Assemble 900 random people and the spectrum of beliefs and prejudices will be well represented. Our friendships are not random and so we tend to be surrounded by like minded acquaintances. It is worth remembering that our personal beliefs are like the ocean horizon, other beliefs do exist well beyond the range of our own, and are held as firmly by others as we hold to ours.

One a much lighter note:

The day included early morning exercises, breakfast in our room, a lecture on pirate history (really fascinating! Spain and a Portugal looted over 500 billion dollars of wealth from the indigenous people, that’s as measured in current dollars, the largest transfer of wealth to that point in history.), team trivial pursuit, and high tea. Music in the Atrium, then dinner tonight at 8, followed by a performance by tenor Lee Bradley.

Peace Everyone! Pete

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Our ship made its first of 5 ports of call today on the island of St. Maarten. A small island of approximately 38 square miles it is cooperatively divided between the Netherlands and France. One island where the residents may freely travel without border restrictions, but each side has wholly separate power generation, water desalination, and infrastructure. A telephone call between residents separated by a few hundred feet incurs international call rates. One thing that the political border could not contain was the fury of Hurricane Irma. Category 5, and with sustained winds of 240 mph, nothing in recorded memory has been her equal here for sheer destruction. It has been over 6 months and twisted metal, collapsed buildings and destroyed vessels are everywhere. I have chosen to highlight the islands beauty rather than the challenges that remain for these good people. Tourism is their lifeblood and fortunately it is returning, witness 3 cruise ships in port today. One of those vessels is the behemoth Royal Caribbean Oasis Sea at over 5 times the gross tonnage and 6 times the passenger capacity of our ship, it was a sight to behold when she discharged her 6,000 passengers!

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We continue to familiarize ourselves with our vessel and fellow passengers. While swimming in the “infinity pool” (its end is plexiglas and seems to hang off the end of the ship, inviting a swim into infinity) we met George, who in the 90’s lived just a few miles from where I grew up. Small world.

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The ship has an excellent gym. I and a few fellow passengers were there this morning at 6am. I suspect we will all be regulars at that hour. Breakfast follows for me, courtesy of room service.

Last night we dined in “The Restaurant”, which is the ship’s general dinner venue. It is elegant and “5-Star” by our estimation. That experience was exceeded this evening in the more intimate “Chef’s Table”. I have included an image of the menu and wine pairings which are themed and change daily. The cuisine and service were impeccable!

We are beyond sight of land for the next 6 days as we cross the Atlantic. Gazing in any direction confronts one with the stark demarcation of sea and sky. It is unambiguous and uninterrupted. Little else in life can lay claim to such unyielding clarity.

Peace Everyone. Pete

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Eddie at Casa Sol prepared a special breakfast for us this morning. His take on Eggs Benedict. Poached eggs with hollandaise sauce served atop a fresh tomato slice and a disk of hash browns made from potatoes and pumpkin… AMAZING! More important was that Eddie obtained 2 Pilgrim Credentials for us. He called his friend with the St. James Society of PR. She expressed her regret that they only had one. Eddie’s wife Tisha went to get it, figuring that one was better than none. When she arrived to pick it up the friend said she was sure she had only one, but it turned out that there was a second one with it! As Eddie repeated, in life there are no coincidences!

We walked to the San Juan Cathedral and obtained our first “stellos” (stamps) which establish that the start of our Camino is in San Juan. We will secure stellos in Barcelona, Madrid, Lisbon, and then Porto where the real walk begins.

We have boarded the Viking Sea. OPULENT!… and we await access to our home for the next 14 nights. More later.

It’s later(😋). A classic chamber trio. Grand piano. 2 Johnny W Blacks. Crab soufflé, Sea Bass and Scallops, cheese/fruit plate. Decaf Coffee. Good company and the subtle swing of a lullaby sea.

Peace Everyone. Pete

The gallery is comprised of images from our vessel and cabin. The odd blue room is the snow spa, the opposite of a sauna!

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We depart tomorrow for our Atlantic crossing. As I began organizing my thoughts for these “Thoughts” I was troubled that there was nothing new to share. Then I reconsidered. I could not have been more wrong! The lesson in this for me is that when one is not focused on living in the moment, the gifts of the moment may be lost.

My thoughts have been much focused on the experience that awaits us tomorrow. Like a distracted driver, I almost missed the importance of today. For starters, at breakfast we exchanged greetings with a couple and their 10 year old child. It turned out that Seth is an attorney in New Mexico who has traded in his big firm litigator stripes for a solo career. The luster of his profession has tarnished somewhat and he is exploring reawakening his passion for the law. I saw much of myself in my pre-Mediator days in Seth. It was a warm exchange that I think was rewarding for both of us. Don’t put off until tomorrow the things you may find you are then unable to do.

After breakfast, an exchange of personal histories with our host Eddie revealed that he walked the Camino Portuguese in 2016 and looks forward to walking the Primitevo Route to Santiago in the future. We spent time pouring over his maps and discussing route options for our upcoming journey out of Porto on the Portuguese Camino. Eddie is going to see if he can obtain two pilgrim credentials which will identify our Camino starting point as Puerto Rico! Whether or not he is successful is not as relevant as the bonding of 3 Perigrinos that occured.

Yesterday, Christine and I explored the eastern fortifications of Castillo San Cristobal. Today we visited the western battlements. First of all, the entire of the San Juan Old City is surrounded by the old fort. 90% of the surrounding wall is intact and can be traveled atop or alongside by foot. To give some perspective of the size of the Castillo, it takes over 2 hours at a brisk pace to walk the perimeter. This is truly a remarkable feat of engineering that stood virtually invulnerable for 400 years until modern artillery ended its reign in 1898.

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As we waited in line to show our “geezer passes” to the National Park Ranger at the fort we overheard 3 couples standing behind us complaining that they had forgotten their passes. A pass entitles the holder and up to 3 guests to free admission. Christine and I turned to the folks and offered to make them our guests. Hurried introductions and the eight of us gained entry on our passes with the knowledge and approval of the ranger. It turned out that those 6 folk are departing tomorrow on our ship for Barcelona and have staterooms just down the hall from us!

How could I have ever thought that there was nothing to write about. As Eddie reminded me this morning, in life there are no coincidences.

Peace Everyone. Pete

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The sun was missing in action most of the day. In spite of the intermittent showers temperatures were pleasant, as was the day and my wife’s company.

We again sojourned Old San Juan. Highlights included Constitution Avenue, on which we saw the Athens Club, the oldest education and cultural organization in Puerto Rico, the Spanish Heritage Center, the Carnegie Library, and the White House which is Puerto Rico‘s seat of government. On the opposite side of Constitution Avenue from the White House are a line of life-size bronze statues, Presidents of the United States who have visited Puerto Rico beginning with Theodore Roosevelt. It was noteworthy to see which presidents were represented, but sad to realize which presidents were absent. My impression is that Puerto Rico received much more attention in the first half of the 20th century than the last half of the 20th century and the early 21st-century. There is a gap between the statues of presidents Gerard Ford and Barack Obama representing over 3 decades.

We toured Castillo San Cristobal, a Spanish fortification the construction of which began 500 years ago. It was expanded over the next 250+ years and is renowned as one of the worlds finest examples of pre-modern military defenses. It is a World Heritage site managed by the United States National Park Service. Our “geezer passes” saved us $14 in admission fees! The resources that Spain dedicated to the fort over the centuries is a tribute to the strategic value of Puerto Rico for colonial expansion into both North and South America. It and Puerto Rico were ceded to the United States by Spain’s surrender in 1898 concluding the Spanish-American war.

We enjoyed a light lunch in the oldest restaurant in PR.

On the way back to our B&B, on one of the narrow connecting avenues, we encountered talented street musicians who had drawn an enthusiastic crowd of thirsty and hungry locals. Taverns on opposite sides of the street were the clear beneficiaries, serving hot homemade Caribbean foods and cold Puerto Rico brews. I am a fan of Magna, a full-bodied lager… 2 for $5 at the street music venue!

It’s 5pm, and I’m taking the opportunity to write these notes while Christine takes a rest. We will be heading out for dinner soon. No destination in mind as luck seems to favor our random wanderings.

Peace Everyone! Pete

PS. We encountered an Airstream RV with Indiana plates. How it got here is today’s mystery.