Category: Travel

If It’s Not Broken…

Posted on by Pete Schloss

Written October 24, 2023, aboard the Viking Star, in the Gulf of Mexico.

We departed Fort Lauderdale harbor yesterday evening. The wind had been up all day so it was no surprise that there was a chop to the waves that grew to significant swells as we cleared the breakwater.

We were pursued by the Harbor Pilot boat, tasked with retrieving the Pilot who was aboard Viking Star to direct our exit from the channel. From our balcony we watched the small vessel gain upon us, crashing through the waves. It was amazing to watch the boat finally snug against our ship’s hull and then the pilot carefully time his leap onto the pitching boat’s small forward deck. Dramatic!

Earlier in the day we attended the mandatory ship safety lecture, unpacked, and took a moment to breath. One advantage of this mode of travel is that one need only unpack and pack a single time over the course of the journey.

We have never considered ourselves “cruise people”, but here we are on our 4th Viking Ocean cruise. The first was in 2018, 15 days, Puerto Rico to Barcelona Spain. The second in 2019, 22 days Buenos Aires Argentina, around Cape Horn to Santiago, Chile. And the third, last year, was 18 days from Barcelona to Buenos Aires.

The highlight of this 18 day trip is a transit through the Panama Canal.

Relative to other cruise ships, this one is small at only 900 passengers. Yesterday we saw the throng waiting to board the Regal Princess (3,600 passengers, 1,600 crew) and were thankful not to be among them.

Each of our cruises, this included, follows a set formula: No children, No casino, No dress-up night, All inclusive. The atmosphere is casual elegant. The service is expertly attentive yet friendly. This continuity suits us. “If it is not broken, don’t fix it.”

Our stateroom is attended twice each day by Guna from Bali, and Unray from Bermuda. Should we require additional assistance they are also available to us 24/7.

38 year old Unray (on the right) has previously sailed these waters and beyond as a passenger. He is certainly gaining a different perspective now.

Last evening Christine and I enjoyed a relaxing dinner. With consideration to the vessel’s motion and Christine’s tendency toward early voyage motion sickness, we ate lightly.

We also attended an excellent one-hour lecture by the ship’s resident historian, William Whobrey, PhD, on pre-Columbian civilizations.

Doctor Whobrey’s resume includes 25 years in the US Army, 20 years as an instructor and Dean at Yale University, and he is currently translating a medieval German saga. He will be presenting throughout the voyage, as will 4 other expert guest lecturers in the fields of geography, history, architecture, culture, and biology.

Later, Christine returned to our room to take a Dramamine and stave off nausea. I, however, attended a showing of the 2022 movie, “Avatar: The Way of Water”.

At over 3 hours long this movie that grossed over 2 billion dollars is a tour-de-force of animation. It is visually stunning in its realism. I found myself occasionally smiling as the water images that played out on screen seemed synchronized with the rolling motion of our ship.

I often have wondered what Wilbur and Orville Wright would say if they could see the current technology in aviation. Last night I had the same thought as I reflected upon Walt Disney’s 1928 ten minute animated short, “Steamboat Willie”, and the 1982 dawn of computer generated feature films, Tron.

“Steamboat Willie”
“Tron”

While I’m on the subject: for those who subscribe to Netflix, I highly recommend “Love, Death, and Robots”, a series of animated shorts that are not kid appropriate.

“Love, Death, and Robots”

Tomorrow we make our first port-of-call, Cozumel, Quintana Roo, Mexico.

Until then, Peace Everyone. Pete

PS. It is remarkable to me that these posts are read by folks from around the world. I can’t see who reads them, but I can see where they are read. Yesterday’s found itself read in 19 countries, posts from our most recent journey were read in over 50 countries. To my knowledge I don’t know anyone in Czechia! I read all comments and reactions. Time allowing I try to respond. Please know that I deeply appreciate you who follow us. Pete

Nothing Special… except

Posted on by Pete Schloss

Written October 23, 2023, at Fort Lauderdale, Florida.

Today was our departure day. We were bound for Fort Lauderdale and the start of our 19 day journey through the Panama Canal and parts beyond. In deference to our 7 AM flight from Kansas City the alarm was set for 3:15 AM. I beat it by 15 minutes. Christine grumbled, rolled over, and then reluctantly joined me on this side of dreamland. Nothing unusual.

Except that yesterday morning not one, but TWO of our toilets decided to malfunction. A trip to Home Depot for some parts and armed with knowledge I have accumulated over the years, I had both stools doing their duty again by noon. No big deal.

Over the last week we had given deep thought to what we should take and not take. Our bags were packed and we were confident that nothing important was overlooked. I had even pre-ordered a 4:15 AM UBER to take us to the airport. He was in our driveway 15 minutes early. We were off… no traffic and no drama.

Our Delta Kansas City flight and connection out of Atlanta were on-time and went off without a hitch. We even enjoyed light snacks and relaxing conversation in Delta’s Atlanta Skylounge. We were among the first off the plane at Fort Lauderdale, our bags were quickly in hand and there was no wait for the taxi that delivered us to the Embassy Suites Hotel where we were booked overnight, anticipating being shipboard Tuesday. All was just as we planned.

2 rounds of complementary evening cocktails at the hotel were the delightful accompaniment to dinner at an elegant nearby restaurant. Still, it was nothing more than what we expected.

I remarked to Christine that the day was extraordinary only for how well it played out. Her response brought me up short.

Christine reminded me that barely 4 months ago I was struggling to speak, unable to put more than a few words into a sentence. I used a hiking pole in one hand and her hand in my other to navigate a one block walk, the limit of my ability. Irrational anxiety paralyzed me to the point that I lost 12 pounds in a month. Nothing special? EVERYTHING we were doing was special given that near history.

How quickly I forget. Peace Everyone. Pete

The Murder of a Friend in Northumberland

Posted on by Pete Schloss

 

Written September 28, 2023, At Kansas City, Missouri.

I learned today of the murder of a friend in Northumberland, England. The coward took her life late last night, a senseless act of premeditated violence that has left the region, the country, and those of us over the world who knew her, in shock.

I met her earlier this year on March 31st as I was hiking the trail along Hadrian’s Wall. It was the day before my birthday.

It was also a difficult day. Long, and punctuated by steep climbs and treacherous descents on rain slicked rocks and muddy cutback paths. My spirits had been brought low by the bone chilling drizzle and dense fog which frequently denied me the full vistas that my eyes yearned to see.

She stood waiting for me at the bottom of a steep vale. I was breathing hard, and my legs trembled from the fight against gravity that had threatened to bring me crashing down the cliff face.

She was famous; indeed, a star having appeared in countless photographs, paintings and even with Kevin Costner in the movie, “Robin Hood, Prince of Thieves”. Yet she was humbly a servant dedicated to all of us, rich and poor, young and old, every day of the year.

Upon sight of her my emotions were immediately lifted. I beheld a family gazing upon her in awe. I approached, and after a moment’s hesitation I embraced her. Strong, tall, almost eternal, she was unyielding to my arms yet soft to my soul. My spirits soared! She was glorious in the pictures that I took of her, but I knew that the images would not convey to Christine her majesty.

Last night she died, murdered. What I know is that a 16-year-old male has been arrested, allegedly having cut her down in her prime. His weapon, a chain saw.

Image from “Wandering Wounder” on Wikipedia

Along Hadrian’s Wall, her home has long been known as “Sycamore Gap”. It is where she put down roots. It is where she now lies in death.

Birds once sang in her arms. No more.

Lovers once laughed at her feet. No more.

Children once danced around her. No more.

… and aging hikers found encouragement to continue, no matter how difficult. No more.

Today the Earth cried a tear and so did I.

Peace Everyone. Pete

PS. There was another tree. I caught a glimpse of her in February of 2017 as I drove past. It was near Carpinteria, California. She was so stunningly beautiful that I risked an accident to stop and take her picture. She died later that year in the Thomas wildfire that tore through the region.

A DBS Surgery Update and Our “Next Thing”.

Posted on by Pete Schloss

 

Written September 24, 2023, At Kansas City, Missouri.

For those “tuning in” for the first-time, links to my previous posts that recap what brought me to this point are set forth below in a postscript.

It has been over 2 months since my last update, and nearly 4 months since my DBS surgery. The short answer to the question that has been privately asked of me many times is that I am well. Actually, I am better than well.

In my July update I reported: “…I was already experiencing a major improvement of my tremors, post-surgery and post brain bleed (without controller activation). The doctor posited that a “honeymoon period” of post-surgical tremor reduction is common. It is a temporary result of the minimal ablation to the thalamus that results from the insertion of the non-activated electrical stimulator in the brain. However, those benefits would have usually disappeared by now.

She further theorized that the additional impact of the brain bleed in the thalamus had extended and enhanced this effect, much as ablation through Focused Ultrasound might. She believes that the significant tremor reduction I am experiencing is still temporary.”

4 months later and the “temporary” tremor reduction persists. Moreover, the slight numbness in my tongue and occasional stumbling over the pronunciation of certain words has almost disappeared. I have returned to my former activities and exercise routine, including travel to Colorado with hiking at altitude (10,000+ feet), enjoying amazing sunrises, an early snowfall, and the joys of a pint in celebration of Oktoberfest. PROST!

 

Earlier this week I had a follow-up appointment with my neurosurgeon, Dr. Chang. I drew an Archimedes spiral, two straight lines and gave a sample of my handwriting. This was compared with similar efforts at my first meeting with her in late December of 2022 where I was asked to trace within pre-printed spirals and straight lines. A writing sample at that time was out of the question. Here are the contrasting “before and after” efforts of December 2022 and earlier this week:

December 21, 2022. 5 months before surgery.

September 20, 2023. Nearly 4 months after surgery.

A good friend and retired medical doctor once told me that one should hope never to be an “interesting case” to a physician. I became an “interesting case” when I developed a brain bleed nearly a week after the first surgery. That rare complication typically occurs at or immediately after the surgery. In Dr. Chang’s considerable experience, it had never occurred days after surgery. “Interesting”.

The “honeymoon effect” of tremor reduction typically lasts a few days, rarely as long as a month, never four months. “Also Interesting”.

The quality of my tremor reduction is consistent with the level of tremor control experienced by patients whose DBS controller has been activated. Dr. Chang candidly admits that at this point there would be little further to gain in activating my device. “VERY Interesting”.

I think that I would have still preferred being an “ordinary” patient.

Will this unanticipated benefit last? It could end next month, next year, or never. If it does end then I will return to activate the DBS controller. Dr. Chang and I are scheduled to meet again next May to review my progress. Only time will tell.

The “Next Thing”:

On October 22nd Christine and I depart by plane for Fort Lauderdale, Florida. We will board the 900 passenger Viking Star for an 18-day cruise through the Panama Canal.

Viking Sky, from the Viking website.

The itinerary includes ports-of-call in Cozumel, Columbia, Costa Rica, Cabo San Lucas, Los Angeles, and of course Panama. As in travels past, I hope to post pictures and a near daily narrative, so stay tuned!

From the Viking website.

Peace Everyone. Pete

PS. I did not come to the decision to undergo DBS surgery easily. I announced it to my wife in an open letter published as I was hiking in Spain last year. Here is a link to that letter:

“The Decision”

I wrote in greater detail the specifics about the DBS surgical procedure. Here is a link to that post:

“My DBS Surgery”

The day before my scheduled surgery I wrote a post that was both a conclusion to our travels in England and my pre-surgery update. Little did I know how prophetic the title to that piece was to be:

“Shake, Rattle, and Roll (the dice) Surgery”

My second surgery occurred on June 16th, but on June 7th I suffered a brain bleed with symptoms that mimicked a stroke.

“My DBS Surgery, A Stroke of Bad Luck.”

July 17th was my appointment to activate the controller that had been implanted in my chest on June 16th. Although the activated controller promised excellent tremor control it was decided to leave the unit turned off for a later date.

“My DBS Surgery, Dark Cloud or Silver Lining?”

 

 

Shake, Rattle, and Roll (the Dice) Surgery

Posted on by Pete Schloss

Written June 1, 2023. At Kansas City, Missouri.

Yesterday a good friend reminded me that I had not written a final post from our seven weeks in England. As you will see, my mind has been on other things. Before I explain further here is a brief recap of our May 10th return to the United States:

Our final night in Manchester was spent at the Radisson Blu Hotel located in Manchester’s International Airport. It was pleasant enough, but we were desperately eager to be on a plane heading west. We ditched tourism that night in favor of room service. When the time arrived to check-in for our flight we received notification that online check-in was not available to us. This created some anxiety.

It turned out that this was nothing more than a requirement that we present our international travel documents in person. However, not knowing this at the time, we arrived especially early the next morning at the Virgin Atlantic desk. To our relief check-in went smoothly, and then on impulse I asked if there was any possibility to secure an upgrade to first class seats. The answer was YES! “How much?” I asked. The sum was quite reasonable to these travel weary souls. I forked over my credit card. As first-class passengers we were entitled to relax in the Virgin Atlantic Airway lounge prior to takeoff, food and drinks included.

The only remaining stress was the timing between our arrival at JFK airport in New York and the departure flight for Kansas City. According to the flight itineraries we had less than an hour to make it through customs and board the final flight home. We were told it was a virtual impossibility and we were likely going to be spending the night in New York.

The flight across the Atlantic was elegant and we were pampered by the delightful attendants. Real food, real China, real cutlery, and best of all real booze. Could it get any better than that?

YES! Our flight landed an hour ahead of schedule! What was more, as holders of Global Entry passes, we were able to casually walk by the near endless serpentine line of humanity at passport control and thanks to facial recognition we virtually walked straight through to the terminal to pick up our bags and re-deposit them on the other side of Customs. We made it to our next flight with time to spare.

As we approached Kansas City black storm clouds loomed in the distance. There was the staccato strobe of lightning strikes that were cloud to cloud and cloud to ground. The pilot aborted his first approach to the runway and circled a few times before attempting a second landing. On his second approach he got closer to the ground, but a sudden gust caused the plane to bank sharply. The pilot hit the gas, put the plane’s nose skyward, and retracted the landing gear.

The third time was the charm… sort of. It was again a rough approach. As the plane touched down it was again struck by the gusting winds and bounced two or three times hard on the tarmac, skidding sideways before finally being secure on the ground. Among the passengers there was a communal “gasp” followed by the silence of relief and then applause. More good luck, we were almost home.

It was at least four days before my sleep cycle was restored, just in time for the crush of reality and the next “adventure” to begin.

Between May 16th and 30th I had appointments with a dermatologist, an audiologist, an ophthalmologist, and my general practice physician. These were all routine checkups along with my annual physical. Each of these appointments went well, but it looks like hearing aids may be in my future. I now have proof that I do not intentionally and selectively ignore my wife.

At Christine’s insistence we made time for family pictures.

I have not yet mentioned the two most important medical appointments: On May 17th I spent the better part of two hours meeting with staff at the University of Kansas Medical Center for my final pre-surgery work-up. One after the other I met with personnel from anesthesiology, pharmacology, and surgery. The big event is tomorrow, (June 2nd). I will report at 5:45 a.m. for Deep Brain Stimulation surgery (DBS). Neurosurgeon, Jennifer Chang, MD, will bore a small hole (about the size of coin) through the left upper area of my skull. My head will be immobilized while she inserts a tiny electrical implant into the thalamus of my brain.

Image from Wikipedia
Image from Wikipedia

She will then run wires under my skin and down to my chest where in two weeks she will surgically implant a controller (neurostimulator), attaching it to the wires.

Image from Boston Scientific

Much of the first procedure, lasting between 4 and 6 hours, will be done while I am awake.

Image from Wikipedia

It is hoped that this procedure on the left hemisphere of my brain will reduce or eliminate the life-long tremors that I experience in my right hand and arm. These tremors have become progressively worse with age and are now significantly impacting my quality of life. Later in the year I will decide whether to undergo the procedure on the right side of my brain.

I did not come to the decision to undergo this procedure easily. I announced it to my wife in an open letter published as I was hiking in Spain last year. Here is a link to that letter:

“The Decision”

I previously wrote in greater detail the specifics about the DBS surgical procedure. Here is a link to that post:

“My DBS Surgery”

I greatly appreciate the kind words and the expressions of thoughts and prayers that I have received in anticipation of tomorrow. A candle has even been lit by a dear friend and her mother on my behalf in a small church in Germany.

The likelihood of the “unthinkable” occurring is less than 1%. However, this is major surgery and unlike my arm, which is an arm, or my leg, which is a leg, my brain is the essence of me. Christine and I have had “the talk”, and we will likely have it again tonight. My life of 71 years has been a blessing and borrowing from the lyrics of the song, “My Way”:

“My friends, I’ll say it clear. I’ll state my case, of which I’m certain. I’ve lived a life that’s full, I traveled each and every highway. And more, much more than this, I did it my way. Regrets, I’ve had a few, but then again, too few to mention. I did what I had to do and saw it through without exemption. I planned each charted course, each careful step along the byway. And more, much more than this… I did it my way.”

Peace Everyone. Pete