October 27, 2022. At Burgos, Spain.
Dear Christine. Do you remember years ago in Florence Italy learning of a psychological condition occurring in individuals overwhelmed by the art and antiquity they have been exposed to? It is called Stendhal’s syndrome, or more commonly “Florence syndrome”.
I think that I am on the verge of becoming a victim, but in my case it’s from the overwhelming saturation of religious objects and art. Perhaps in my case it should be called St. Stendhal’s syndrome, aka, “Burgos syndrome”.
The cathedral at Leon was impressive. However, it is a distant second to the size, scope, and content of the Burgos cathedral.
Moreover, Burgos is absolutely choked with ancient churches. Throw a stone and you are virtually assured of hitting one.
Today, I visited the Monasterio de las Huelgas, a Cistercian convent that has been in operation since the 12th century. There are still at least 30 nuns in residence along with their assistants. It contains a royal pantheon that extends through three large chambers and houses the earthly remains of 33 kings, queens, princes, and princesses.
Until the Council of Trent (1545-1563) the Abbess heard confessions, granted absolution, and may have performed other sacraments.
Unfortunately, photographs were not allowed and access was only given as a member of a Spanish language only tour. You’ll have to take my word for it that the art and religious objects, many dating to the 12th century and earlier, are spectacular and in a state of remarkable preservation. I was allowed to take a picture of the outside and one in the cloister.
Many of the rooms featured massive boards of oak flooring polished to a mirror gloss. The flooring alone was worth the visit and dates to the 1500s. The surface was irregular given the hundreds of years of foot traffic. We walked those floors.
Next I visited the church of Saint Nicholas, patron of Burgos. Again, an incredible collection of sacred artifacts.
Then there was yet another… this time the church and museum of St. Esteban.
As you can see, I am limiting the number of pictures. There are just too many.
Finally, I spent hours within the cathedral, spread between a morning and a separate afternoon visit. Here are just a few notable pictures. A person could spend days wandering from chapel to chapel and museum chamber to museum chamber.
If you want to do a deep dive and refresh your recollection, here is a link to my reflections and photographs from our visit in 2013: https://mediationkc.com/2021/08/25/part-23-burgos-and-our-difficult-conversation/
The cathedral provided an excellent app by which one can view many of the features of the cathedral and listen to an English narrative;
I walked over 20,000 steps today, and I was not even “on the Camino“.
Burgos has wonderful pedestrian avenues,
… sculptures that make one laugh,
… hundreds of bars, cafés, and restaurants.
I had a morcilla bocadillo (blood sausage sandwich) at lunch, and tapas for dinner. I’m beginning to feel a desperate need for vegetables!
I’m still chewing on how best to respond to your question. It deserves an honest and well thought out answer. I did get replies today from both messages that I sent the other day.
Sleep well. I’m excited to give you a call tomorrow and know that we are seeing the sun from roughly the same angle.
6 thoughts on “Overwhelmed”
Good Morning my friend …. Saturated eh? Which of course is what you would have been daily had you not altered your plans!! Perhaps you need a day off to just take pictures of scenic vistas….one day – no churches – ha ha. I too love the Plain trees that line the walk ways of Spain (and other warm countries I am certain). The trees here would give you no shade at this point as they have shed their leaves in preparation of winter. I will tell you that I have no fondness for blood sausage even though I have tried it time and again – yup – nope, not for me. So happy you and Christine are in the same time zone – I look forward to hearing of your reunion. Stay groovy (how could you not be with the beret??)
Pete Schloss says:
Dear Liz. You have again giving me my afternoon smile! I had decided not to take church pictures today, until I entered the church of Saint Gill. Whether or not I post them is yet an open question. I’m doing my best to stay groovy! Pete
Margaret Ragan says:
Wow, Pete, your photos are spectacular. Very informative. Thanks. Margaret
Pete Schloss says:
Thank you so much Margaret!
Pam Roberts says:
Again, I must say the images are very impressive! Maybe someday we will venture that way, who knows. Well, continue to stay healthy and safe. Enoy your adventures!
Pete Schloss says:
Thank you Pam!