Written April 5, 2023, at Hexham, England.

The rain is back. It’s predicted to continue tomorrow as I resume the trail but to then gift us with dry and partially sunny skies for the final two walking days. If all goes according to plan, I will reach Wallsend in Newcastle Saturday afternoon. No worries, we have come to appreciate the weather forecasts which are incredibly accurate… for about 20 minutes.

There were two sites that we had hoped to visit today. One was the Old Gaol (jail), and the other Hexham Abbey.

The Gaol was open yesterday and scheduled to be open today. However, with accuracy second only to the weather forecasts it was closed for routine elevator maintenance.

Fortunately, Hexham Abbey was open.

The Abbey was founded in 674CE, And is one of the earliest sites of Christian worship in the United Kingdom.

Vikings pillaged and burned the Abbey to the ground in 875. The Abbey was rebuilt in 1050, with the current edifice actually dating to the early 12th-century.

Evidence of its ancient past remains evident. Upon entering there is a large Roman burial marker on display. It is dedicated to Flavinus, a 25 year old cavalry soldier who died sometime during the first century.

The stone was found in the foundations of the Abbey, along with other stones from the Roman era, many which were originally part of the huge Roman bridge to the north.

There is an eighth century “bishops chair“,

Dark wood panels and a pulpit are from the 1500s,

Most notable is the ancient crypt that was constructed in year 674. It contains a small chapel where relics of saints were once secured and venerated.

As with many very old cathedrals, there were funeral effigies and the stones on the floor literally cover the graves of people who were important in their time.

It was a relaxing day during which we wandered many of the old serpentine streets and alleys. There was some window, and real, shopping.

We decided that for dinner this evening we would search out a classic British pub. “The Heart of Northumberland” checked all of the boxes. Excellent ales from hand pumps (very low carbonation and served “warm” according to most American’s tastes), fish and chips, and an amazing salmon cake dinner left us more than satisfied.

Tomorrow morning I will catch a 9 AM taxi that will deposit me at the point where I left the Hadrian’s Wall trail on Tuesday. Christine will taxi at 10:30 AM to our next accommodation, the well regarded Robin Hood Inn, located about 10 miles from here on the Hadrian’s Wall path.

I sense the end to this portion of our journey is nearing. How I feel about that is both complex and uncertain.

Peace Everyone. Pete

25 thoughts on “Hiking Along Hadrian’s Wall, Hexham.

  1. Safe and DRY travel! 👍

    PS. How do you write/text so much with your tremors…? Takes my husband a loooong time to get one sentence out… just curious.

  2. Joe and Julie says:

    Great to hear about your time in Hexham. Very pretty and lots to see! Robin Hood Inn was very fun…notice the woodwork in the booths. (We only stopped for a drink.). Safe journey!

  3. Julie Baliva says:

    Happy to have joined you for this adventure. As always, love all of the amazing photos. Safe travels on the rest of the trip.

  4. Well – Pete and Christine – your posts and wanderings gave us a bite by the travel bug. After much back and forth (and rain in many pictures) we have decided to once again (for the last time) walk a Camino. The Ingles this time – everything fell into place in two days, dog sitter, air travel, even hotels at the start and finish (could be sleeping in sheds in between). I understand the wanting to go, wishing to stay, looking forward to the next adventure and yet being happy where you are…. at least that was my interpretation of your comments. Thank you for all your efforts in these posts – we certainly appreciate it!

    • Now, Liz, that really makes me smile! Not 30 minutes ago on the trail I passed Young lady who stopped me to ask how my day was going. We talked for a few minutes and it came out that she was leaving for the Camino with her husband and daughter in August! Of course, I had to share contact information. When she saw I’m from Kansas City, she exclaimed… “You’re from Kansas City! I spent time there, studying at the University of Kansas, Medical Center!“ Conversation continued. It’s just another one of those Camino moments my friend. Buen Camino. Pete.
      BTW, when are you heading out?

  5. Ahh, don’t worry about the weather, it’s like that everywhere. Yesterday= shorts; then pm= hail. Today= sweats. I’m glad you’re almost through, I look forward to seeing a relaxed Pete & Chris lolling on the deck of the canal-boat.. Loved seeing the city streets and the churches.

    • Hi Joe! It’s always good to hear from you my friend. It’s a stainless steel straw that I carry with me most of the time as an aid in consuming liquids. My tremors have advanced to the point that this is a helpful accommodation. I have a brain surgery scheduled for June 2 to hopefully deal with the issues.

  6. Like those before me have written, you have also given me the bug. I’m walking down to the garden, as the ground has sufficiently dried, and plant my potatoes. Not as adventurous as your travels, but “full filling” just the same when I dig them.
    Good weather for you for the few days.

  7. Pam Roberts says:

    I’m glad to hear that you and Chris are having a good time. I like the pictures you took of Hexham, definitely a lot of history. Would love to see more of that area when we return some day. Cheers, Pam

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