In 2017, while traveling and camping in Alaska, we met Ron and Lena. We were immediately attracted to them. As retirees they spent approximately half their time on the road in a very small RV, had incredibly positive dispositions, liked people, but most of all really liked each other. We made a fast friendship with them, and upon parting wondered if our paths would again cross.

The question was answered yesterday. While I was doing our much needed laundry, I received a Facebook message from Lena. They were in Madrid!..having completed the Camino Via de la Plata route to Santiago. Using a mixture of Facebook, Skype, and Messenger, we arranged to meet for dinner in the Barrio neighborhood. Ron described the restaurant as a “hole in the wall” with great atmosphere and food. It was, and it did!

In Spain, dinner doesn’t really get going until 9pm or later. We met at 7:30, sipped vino tinto and cervesa until 9pm, and then dined until nearly midnight. The time fairly flew as we caught each other up on the gifts and challenges of life. Will our threads in this tapestry of fate cross again?… only time will tell.

Madrid at night is a carnival, alive with the pulse of humanity. No museum or art gallery can compete with the energy that unfolded before us as we slowly walked back to our hostel.

Today we will breakfast at the hostel, join its residents for a walking tour of the city, enjoy a street-side cafe, and let the day present us with its menu del dia.

As Eddie said to us in Puerto Rico, “In life, there are no coincidences!”

Peace Everyone! Pete

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When we walked the Camino in 2013 the last day in Santiago was littered with chance meetings with friends from that journey. That experience is again playing out in Barcelona with chance encounters from our Atlantic passage. We met a number of ship acquaintances, paramount being Mart and Jean (again!) and then Mary and Gary who had the cabin next to ours. We shared a very good Tapas lunch with them after we had toured the interior of the Sagrada Familia.

I have retained over 60 pictures from today. I will exhibit a few here that give just a taste of the magnificence of this house of worship. Rather than engage in a lengthy narrative, I will let the pictures speak more eloquently than I can. Besides, it is nearly midnight as I type this out.

This evening we met with one of our AFS exchange student “children”, Neus, her 8 year old daughter, and her brother James, who had also been an exchange student, but in Baltimore MD. Neus took us on a walk along the stunning beachfront area known as Barceloneta. Good fortune won out and the rains held off until we concluded a late dinner at one of James’ favorite restaurants. Sadly, Neus’ 10 year old daughter wasn’t feeling well so she and her father could not join us.

Tomorrow we will sleep in a bit, and then return to wandering the area of Las Ramblas, the old city, and Cathedral. Perhaps we will take in a museum or two, a Gaudi site, and certainly tapas, vino tinto, and an Estrella Damm or two in this world class destination.

Peace Everyone! Pete

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Camino Moments, Camino Angels

Many of those who have walked the Camino understand “Camino Moments and Camino Angels”. They are the odd, near daily experiences that beg explanation. They are the chance encounter with a stranger that presents a solution to a difficulty.

The opulence of our current circumstances is the antithesis of a pilgrimage on the Camino, yet our host in Puerto Rico secured Pilgrim Credentials for us that declared our journey to have begun in San Juan. We were thwarted in our effort to obtain a “sello” (stamp) in the San Juan Cathedral until the intersession of a stranger there.

Today, we sought to obtain a sello at the Cathedral in Funchal. Again, we were turned away. However, a little older woman who spoke no English beckoned for us to follow her. We did for half a block to an obscure doorway outside at the far end of the Cathedral. This was not a public entry and there were no signs to indicate the business of that door. She motioned for us to remain just outside. We could tell that she climbed some stairs before returning to us. She knocked on an interior door, and eventually the door opened. A hand extended to her and she gave that person our Credentials. A few minutes later the unseen person returned our Credentials to her, and she handed them to us… now bearing the official stamp of the Cathedral of Funchal.

This was a very moving experience for both of us. What we sought was beyond our grasp, but not of a stranger’s reach who interceded on our behalf… a Camino Angel. In life there are no coincidences.

The island of Madeira is a paradise. It was unpopulated and undiscovered until 600 years ago. It is politically a part of Portugal, but consists of 4 islands that lay 600 miles southwest of the mainland. It has a total population of about 300,000. The major drivers of its economy are tourism, the production of miniature bananas (think banana chips, liquor, and niche foods), and of course the remarkable (and remarkably strong!) Madeira Wine. Over 40% of its energy is produced by wind, solar, and hydroelectric generators.

Our wanderings today took us to a glass walkway that hangs out atop the highest sea cliff in Europe, 1,800 feet above the shore. We enjoyed simple sandwiches made in the local fashion, a glass of Madeira wine, the local beer, and the fragrance of the flowers that abound everywhere. On the way back to our ship we encountered a replica of Columbus’s flagship the Santa Maria which sails (actually motors) tourists around the harbor 3 times a day.

We are back to sea with Tangier Morocco our next destination, scheduled for landfall this coming Friday.

Peace Everyone. Pete

 

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We have advanced ship time by one hour on 6 of the last 7 nights. I had imagined that one benefit of traveling to Europe by boat would be avoiding the disruptive “jet lag” that accompanies the sudden change of jumping 6 time zones. I have found, however, that losing an hour of sleep virtually every night for the last week is the Chinese Water Torture equivalent of jet lag. Happily, we are now on Continental Europe time and thus in sync for our first landfall that occurs tomorrow on the island of Madeira.

Over the last week we have made the acquaintance of a number of ship’s staff, performers, and of course passengers. A section of the staterooms on our deck are the assigned responsibility of Augistino and Noni, who are both from Indonesia. They are exceptionally friendly, polite, engaging, and yet professional. They surprised me on the morning of my birthday with a cake, bottle of champagne, and a chocolate Easter Bunny. We have found their dedication to our comfort to be an attribute shared by virtually every staff person aboard. The friendliness is genuine and not cloying. Most are willing to share their personal stories when asked, although I sense that our interest may not be typical among passengers.

One evening we engaged one of the dining servers in conversation at the end of dinner. We were among the last of the patrons to leave, so there was the opportunity for a relaxed conversation. She is from the Philippines, married, and the mother of a 3 year old. She is sailing on the first of 3 intended contacts (a “contract” is a 6 month commitment). Talking of her family we quickly sensed the pain of her separation from them. She explained that she was doing this to fund her daughter’s education and that it was better done now when her daughter would not remember her mother’s absence. Her forethought and sacrifice are remarkable.

One of the performers, a very talented singer from New York, spoke briefly with us the day we boarded. He has recalled our names ever since, and expressed a personal interest in our “story”. Perhaps it is because we came to the ship with backpacks, certainly not typical. We exchanged information and he has done us the honor of reading these “Thoughts”. Conversely, I am fascinated to learn vicariously about the experience of cruising through the eyes of a young entertainer. I hope that there is an opportunity for the 3 of us to talk about life from both sides of the mirror.

Among the passengers we have developed a few friendships that beckon deeper exploration. They are folks we would imagine bonding with at home or on the road. People who have engaged life under similar circumstances, have faced similar challenges, and intuitively understand one another.

This is a vessel populated by folk who are seasoned both by travel and years. We are on the younger side of the spectrum, and compared to most we are cruising “newbies”. Our usual style of travel is likely foreign to most. Conversations often begin with the question about how many cruises has one traveled, how many were Viking, and to what destinations. Where one is from, and what one did/does are much farther down the list. Christine has noted with a relaxed smile that it is not necessary to hold one’s stomach in at poolside!

Last night Christine and I enjoyed drinks and the music of the chamber trio in the Atrium. It was day two of my 66th year. I had posted a picture of my toddler self the day before on Facebook and my “Thoughts”. I mused to Chris the question of whether I would recognize myself if I encountered that child in real life. Would we understand each other… like each other. Would I as that child recognize my 66 year old self?… would I like me, understand me… This was a protracted conversation that brooked the occasional distraction of an eavesdropper that I caught out of the corner of my eye. He sat on the other side of narrowly separated twin pillars. My peripheral vision made him out to be an older white haired gentleman. I tried to ignore him as Christine and I embraced our reflections on life. Finally, the man’s continued intrusion overcame my reluctance and I turned to him face on. We shared an immediate expression of shock as it dawned upon both of us that the slender gap between the pillars was a mirror. The rude passenger who would not quit staring at me, was me. We then smiled at each other and agreed, we like each other. I confess that I don’t always understand him.

Peace Everyone. Pete

PS. The Viking Mead Horn is my birthday present from Christine.

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We depart tomorrow for our Atlantic crossing. As I began organizing my thoughts for these “Thoughts” I was troubled that there was nothing new to share. Then I reconsidered. I could not have been more wrong! The lesson in this for me is that when one is not focused on living in the moment, the gifts of the moment may be lost.

My thoughts have been much focused on the experience that awaits us tomorrow. Like a distracted driver, I almost missed the importance of today. For starters, at breakfast we exchanged greetings with a couple and their 10 year old child. It turned out that Seth is an attorney in New Mexico who has traded in his big firm litigator stripes for a solo career. The luster of his profession has tarnished somewhat and he is exploring reawakening his passion for the law. I saw much of myself in my pre-Mediator days in Seth. It was a warm exchange that I think was rewarding for both of us. Don’t put off until tomorrow the things you may find you are then unable to do.

After breakfast, an exchange of personal histories with our host Eddie revealed that he walked the Camino Portuguese in 2016 and looks forward to walking the Primitevo Route to Santiago in the future. We spent time pouring over his maps and discussing route options for our upcoming journey out of Porto on the Portuguese Camino. Eddie is going to see if he can obtain two pilgrim credentials which will identify our Camino starting point as Puerto Rico! Whether or not he is successful is not as relevant as the bonding of 3 Perigrinos that occured.

Yesterday, Christine and I explored the eastern fortifications of Castillo San Cristobal. Today we visited the western battlements. First of all, the entire of the San Juan Old City is surrounded by the old fort. 90% of the surrounding wall is intact and can be traveled atop or alongside by foot. To give some perspective of the size of the Castillo, it takes over 2 hours at a brisk pace to walk the perimeter. This is truly a remarkable feat of engineering that stood virtually invulnerable for 400 years until modern artillery ended its reign in 1898.

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As we waited in line to show our “geezer passes” to the National Park Ranger at the fort we overheard 3 couples standing behind us complaining that they had forgotten their passes. A pass entitles the holder and up to 3 guests to free admission. Christine and I turned to the folks and offered to make them our guests. Hurried introductions and the eight of us gained entry on our passes with the knowledge and approval of the ranger. It turned out that those 6 folk are departing tomorrow on our ship for Barcelona and have staterooms just down the hall from us!

How could I have ever thought that there was nothing to write about. As Eddie reminded me this morning, in life there are no coincidences.

Peace Everyone. Pete

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