Category: Thoughts

Hiking Along Hadrian’s Wall, The Last Day

Posted on by Pete Schloss

Written April 8, 2023, at Newcastle upon Tyne, England.

“It Is Finished”. These are words of gravitas spoken 2000 years ago. It seems appropriate to recall them on Easter weekend. They are also an expression that captured my heart upon reaching Wallsend.

My planning for the hike along Hadrian’s Wall began last summer. Unlike the Camino, lodgings along the route are few and often far between. Reservations were a necessity. Unlike the Camino, there is not an elaborate infrastructure for the “pilgrim” nor is there an overt spiritual component. I enjoyed meeting wonderful people but few were embracing the same experience. I usually walked in solitude. The weather was a daily roll of the dice.

Walking Hadrian’s Wall was a satisfying accomplishment. It was physical, putting me in touch with my aging body . It was historical, putting me in touch with a once great empire. It also reinforced my affection for the United Kingdom and its people.

Today I was rewarded with more of those connections.

John and Michelle from Glasgow have been walking “The Wall“ in sections, a few days each time. This was their final day.

We shared the path for a few miles and found that we had much in common. I expressed my regret that Christine was not present to make it a foursome. A few minutes later and there she was!

Christine had transported ahead to our hotel, but as the room was not ready she decided to walk back to meet me. It was perfect!

John and Michelle continued on as I stopped for lunch with Christine. After lunch I walked the additional 4 miles to Wallsend. An Uber returned me to the hotel.

Hotel management upgraded our room at no additional charge.

In our hotel room was a small gift and a personal card of congratulations.

There was another card that set out an Easter Egg “treasure hunt“. The answer to each riddle led to a plastic Easter Egg, each containing a small gift.

We were so touched by these gestures that we sought out the thoughtful architect. Her name is Charlotte.

She does not do this for every room or customer, just those who she senses would be appreciative; families with small children, foreign guests, and those who otherwise qualify as non-typical travelers.

Christine and I enjoyed evening drinks in the spacious hotel lounge. This evening it was haven for a younger “trendy” crowd. Techno music with a heavy beat played courtesy of an attractive young lady who expertly manipulated the soundboard. I watched customers and staff stride back and forth across the room. Unconsciously, they kept step with the beat. It was fun to watch. As we left I decided to bring this to the attention of the DJ. “Do you know how much power you hold over these people?” She laughed as I explained, but there was something in her eye that hinted she would soon begin experimenting. This was Annabelle. She is a lawyer and she finds joy in her evening alter ego.

We will be in Newcastle, a city of 320,000, for the next three days. Along with resting my legs, I intend to rest my “pen“. We will then spend three days in Liverpool before taking charge of our narrowboat in Middlewich.

Thank you for being a part of this journey. Stay tuned.

Peace Everyone. Pete

Hiking Along Hadrian’s Wall, Day Nine

Posted on by Pete Schloss

Written April 7, 2023, at the Keelman’s Lodge, Newcastle upon Tyne.

This was a Good Friday morning, both literally and figuratively. Partly sunny. Cold, but not too cold.

The path was straight, but still required attention. Damp, but not too damp. The walk followed the Old Military Road which was busy, but not too busy.

My knee had some residual tenderness, but it was tolerable. My destination lay eight miles distant, far but not too far. Everything seemed defined by moderation. No stress…

…until an hour down the path I received a text message from Christine, NO TAXI! I paused on the trail and began remote problem-solving with her. A flurry of texts and a few calls to the taxi company revealed that they had dispatched to the wrong location and since she was “not there” they determined it was a “no-show“. They dispatched a second time, again to the wrong location! Finally, on the third attempt they got it right. I continued on the walk… stressed, but not too stressed.

I now appreciate why Hadrian’s Wall tour companies focus their itineraries on the center of The Walk. That’s where the “meat” is. As I have found, the beginning and end days offer less in the way of a unique experience other than putting one foot in front of the other thousands of times.

Christine is listening as I pen this and has cautioned me not to be negative. Negative is is not my intention, I’m just becoming more reflective of my experience in light of the imminent conclusion.

There were a only a few signs of “The Wall“ today.

Barely discernible portions of The Wall beneath the Old Military Road.
Beneath this meadow are the remains of a large Roman fortification.

More prominent were the signs of encroaching urban civilization.

For the first time there were the sights and sounds of air traffic as planes passed overhead and entered landing patterns into Newcastle.

The trail approached and then crossed over a busy expressway.

I entered the city limits, sadly leaving pasture trails behind in favor of suburban tarmac.

Tomorrow could be the last day if I choose to walk all 12 miles to Wallsend. Instead, I may stop at our hotel which is located near the trail on the banks of the River Tyne. Christine has indicated a willingness to walk the final 4 miles with me during our stay in Newcastle. That would be a nice finale to this extraordinary experience.

Peace Everyone. Pete

P.S. We are staying the night at the Keelman’s Lodge.

It is a charming bed and breakfast that shares a park-like setting with the Big Lamp Brewery.

Over the last 2 weeks this is the 10th mattress that I have slept on. Some are firm, and some are soft. Some, as Goldilocks once said, are “just right”.

Hiking Along Hadrian’s Wall, Day Eight

Posted on by Pete Schloss

Written April 6, 2023, at the Robin Hood Inn, Northumberland, England.

One more day down, just two to go!

I caught a cab in the rain at our hotel in Hexham for transport 5 miles up the road to where I would resume my Hadrian’s Wall walk. By the time we reached the destination the rain has stopped. It would not resume until shortly after I arrived at our next destination, the Robin Hood Inn. Luck, a good Guardian Angel, or just the fickle climate of this region? I’m ok with any or all answers.

I don’t think I was prepared for a day with virtually no “Hadrian’s Wall“. My first two days on the trail revealed only signs of the Wall, and it seems that I have returned to that aspect of the walk, just now on the east end. Still, there was much beauty to appreciate.

8 miles and there was only one small section of the wall visible, and that thanks to the 1801 intervention of William Hutton.

Nevertheless, there were many signs of the wall throughout the day. There were obvious sections of the Vallum (ditch),

mounds that hinted at the unexcavated milecastles beneath,

and the Military Road which has carried that name and followed the track first laid out by the Romans nearly 2000 years ago.

Pasture friends were ever present.

There was more two legged activity along the trail.

Was this Big Foot?

No, just a family from Utah with a teenager who decided to spend his day walking the muddy (and sheep sh*t covered) path barefoot. Parasites anyone?

A small ancient church beckoned a detour.

It’s “clock” predates the fiction of daylight savings time.

There was a “Camino moment“. As a young lady and her dog passed heading in the opposite direction we exchanged afternoon greetings. However, she stopped and inquired more specifically of my day, my starting point, and my destination. In turn she offered but she was walking segments of Hadrian’s Wall. A few moments later she mentioned her plan to walk the Camino in August, from St. Jean Pied de Port to Santiago de Compostella. Of course, that led to me revealing that I had walked 3 Caminos, the most recent of which was last year.

Katy (her name) and I the briefly discussed that topic held in common as I presented her with one of my “retirement cards” that includes contact information and my website. “You’re from Kansas City?!? I did a foreign medical study program there at the University of Kansas Medical Center!” She had questions, I had some answers. We made a connection that some might call coincidence, and others call something more.

Christine and I are comfortably lodged in a classic English countryside Inn, the Robin Hood.

It stands solitary on the Old Military Road, Hadrian’s Wall walk literally crossing the parking lot.

It’s Thursday night and the Inn hosts a special steak dinner. Two 10oz steaks with sides plus a bottle of wine for £40. Luck or a good Guardian Angel… I’m still ok with any or all answers.

Peace Everyone. Pete

P.S. Last year I underwent an MRI on my right knee. It disclosed a torn meniscus and some mobile fragments. I was scheduled for arthroscopic surgery last October. However, my hike on the Portuguese Camino was a success and in consultation with the surgeon we decided, “if it isn’t a problem don’t fix it until it is.” Over the last few days my right knee has been “whispering to me”. Today it “spoke” a bit louder and at the end of the day was a bit swollen.

I’m going to continue on tomorrow and Saturday, body willing.

Hiking Along Hadrian’s Wall, Hexham.

Posted on by Pete Schloss

Written April 5, 2023, at Hexham, England.

The rain is back. It’s predicted to continue tomorrow as I resume the trail but to then gift us with dry and partially sunny skies for the final two walking days. If all goes according to plan, I will reach Wallsend in Newcastle Saturday afternoon. No worries, we have come to appreciate the weather forecasts which are incredibly accurate… for about 20 minutes.

There were two sites that we had hoped to visit today. One was the Old Gaol (jail), and the other Hexham Abbey.

The Gaol was open yesterday and scheduled to be open today. However, with accuracy second only to the weather forecasts it was closed for routine elevator maintenance.

Fortunately, Hexham Abbey was open.

The Abbey was founded in 674CE, And is one of the earliest sites of Christian worship in the United Kingdom.

Vikings pillaged and burned the Abbey to the ground in 875. The Abbey was rebuilt in 1050, with the current edifice actually dating to the early 12th-century.

Evidence of its ancient past remains evident. Upon entering there is a large Roman burial marker on display. It is dedicated to Flavinus, a 25 year old cavalry soldier who died sometime during the first century.

The stone was found in the foundations of the Abbey, along with other stones from the Roman era, many which were originally part of the huge Roman bridge to the north.

There is an eighth century “bishops chair“,

Dark wood panels and a pulpit are from the 1500s,

Most notable is the ancient crypt that was constructed in year 674. It contains a small chapel where relics of saints were once secured and venerated.

As with many very old cathedrals, there were funeral effigies and the stones on the floor literally cover the graves of people who were important in their time.

It was a relaxing day during which we wandered many of the old serpentine streets and alleys. There was some window, and real, shopping.

We decided that for dinner this evening we would search out a classic British pub. “The Heart of Northumberland” checked all of the boxes. Excellent ales from hand pumps (very low carbonation and served “warm” according to most American’s tastes), fish and chips, and an amazing salmon cake dinner left us more than satisfied.

Tomorrow morning I will catch a 9 AM taxi that will deposit me at the point where I left the Hadrian’s Wall trail on Tuesday. Christine will taxi at 10:30 AM to our next accommodation, the well regarded Robin Hood Inn, located about 10 miles from here on the Hadrian’s Wall path.

I sense the end to this portion of our journey is nearing. How I feel about that is both complex and uncertain.

Peace Everyone. Pete

Hiking Along Hadrian’s Wall, Day Seven

Posted on by Pete Schloss

Written April 4, 2023, at Hexham, England.

This should have been an easy day. It was not. The day opened well enough. There was frost on the ground at our hotel green, and I captured a beautiful shot of the bridge across the North Tyne River lit by dawn’s first light.

I set off eager for the 8 miles to Hexham where we are lodging in the medieval center of town for the next two nights.

My first 3 miles included a 1 mile detour to the remains of a monumental Roman bridge that once crossed the river. Looking across the river I could see the Roman baths that we visited yesterday.

The next 2 miles were through pleasant countryside but along the busy A6079 roadway. No problem, there was a walking path alongside the road.

However, where the Hadrian’s Wall Path turned left toward High Brunton, I was heading straight for another 5 miles to Hexham. There was no path alongside the road. I spent three of those 5 miles jumping off the roadway and into the shoulderless brush to dodge cars and semi tractors. It was loud, anxious, and just plain dangerous. Needless to say, I survived.

Our lovely room at the Beaumont Hotel is in the heart of old Hexham.

We are across the street from the 12th century Hexham Abbey which we will visit tomorrow. This part of the city is a maze of ancient winding streets and charming shops that we will also explore tomorrow.

For today, just a few images and none from that dangerous stretch of road.

Peace Everyone. Pete