October 20, 2022. At Santiago de Compostela, Spain.
Dear Christine. When is a plan a prison? When one allows it to be.
Tina from Germany did not use those exact words, But the meaning came through when she shared her decision to forgo continuing on to the coast in favor of returning to Germany. While I was fretting the thought of enduring days of miserable weather, she was nonchalant in her decision to redirect her path. I realized that I had allowed my plans to become a “prison“. Furthermore, I was my own jailer oblivious that I held the keys to my release.
I have again checked the weather and there is no improvement.
Therefore, I am escaping my plan in favor of another. This afternoon I canceled my November flight from Santiago to Barcelona and I also canceled my November Santiago hotel booking. These were reservations that came into play upon my return to Santiago from Finisterra and Muxia. Instead, today I booked a series of train tickets from Santiago to Leon, Leon to Burgos, Burgos to Madrid, Madrid to Valencia, and Valencia to Barcelona. The total cost for those 1st class train connections was slightly less than €300.
I have secured lodgings as follows: three nights in Lyons, three nights in Burgos, four nights in Madrid, and three nights in Valencia. The total cost for those 13 nights it’s slightly less than $1000. I weighed this against the cost savings of not walking to the coast, not staying additional days in Santiago, and not paying airfare. My “new plan” is slightly more expensive than the old one, but the relief from the thought of endless trudging through torrential rains is priceless.
I am at peace with this transition from pilgrim to tourist: “God Grant me the Serenity to accept the things that I cannot change (like rain!), The Courage to change those things that I can (like my plans!), and the Wisdom to know the difference (thank you Tina!).”
Becoming a tourist begins tomorrow. I plan to spend the next two days in Santiago visiting a number of its historical and religious sites. Today I returned to the cathedral for the noon pilgrims Mass and was again rewarded with the spectacle of the swinging Botafumeiro.
First I entered the cathedral through the Holy Door, which is only open during a Jubilee year which is when the feast of Saint James falls on a Sunday. That occurred in 2021, but because of Covid it has been extended through 2022. This is the first time that the door has been open in a non-Jubilee year since the Spanish revolution.
Tradition holds that a pilgrim entering the cathedral through the Holy Door receives a plenary indulgence, the forgiveness of all one’s past sins. Maybe tomorrow I will walk through the door backwards to see if my future sins are forgiven as well!
This time I brought my “real Camera“. I hope that the pictures prove it’s worth.
Here is a sequence of pictures of the swinging of the Botafumiero. I opted not to make a video as it would be too difficult for me to show you here. There are plenty of videos on YouTube:
After dark I returned to the square to appreciate that it is at night that this old city really shines.
Love, your Husband.
PS. During Mass there were invocations to pray for the Pilgrims, especially those who endured sickness and disability to reach the cathedral, prayers that they return home safely, and prayers that the journey aided all to embrace peace in their hearts.
To this I say, Amen.
Susan says:
Wow! Fabulous photos! Love that you had the courage to change “the plan” !
Pete Schloss says:
Thanks Susan!
Annie says:
So wonderful that you “did your own thing”!! Good for you!!
Pete Schloss says:
I hope that this one works for the better!
Deb L says:
Beautiful photos. I like the sound of your revised plans. We are heading out today from Leon to continue our Camino after a ten day hiatus due to COVID and are not enthusiastic due to the upcoming weather. This is our fifth Camino, we will see how things progress. Enjoy the rest of your time as a tourist.
Pete Schloss says:
Thank you Deb. I’m glad you got well enough to continue. Hopefully the weather will improve!
Liz says:
BRAVO!! What an excellent use of my beloved Serenity Prayer! I am proud of you – though I know that pride is not always a good thing. (insert smiley face). So on our last trip to Santiago – we looked for the constant pilgrim – a shadow that occurs near the Cathedral at night – which looks just like a pilgrim. Another is the scallop shell that also is shown at night – again near the Cathedral. My “Grands” have arrived – more later
Pete Schloss says:
Enjoy them Grandma!
Gramma Liz says:
https://proguias.es/en/the-shadow-of-pilgrim-secrets-of-santiago-de-compostela/. I can’t find the info on the Camino shell – but it is under one of the staircases I think towards the back of the Cathedral. I wish I could attach a picture … perhaps if you ask around – you will get some better info.
Pete Schloss says:
I will seek… And perhaps find! Thanks Liz.
Laura Gust says:
As usual; I love looking at the pictures. As I look at the richness and grandeur of the cathedral, my love of simple worship wants to criticize the $ spent to impress instead of helping others. I wonder if the planners are trying to impress God or other people. Then I chastise myself with the realization that this is also a beautiful art creation; and as such is enjoyed by millions and worth the cost. Then I tell myself to relax and enjoy. stay well.
Pete Schloss says:
Hi Laura. One must also remember that these constructions date back to the 800s. The richness you see it’s mostly from the 1400s to 1600s. The common people believed that glorifying God in this way was their path to heaven.
Laura Gust says:
Yes. like the pyramids; I also have to remember the thinking of those spending their lives to work (whether forced or not) on at least one thing in their lives that will live and be enjoyed for many,many, years. Leaving something beautiful behind that marks their lives.
Julie Baliva says:
As usual, beautiful pictures. Thanks for sharing. Good choice for changing plans. Sometimes obstacles such as weather can seem like the enemy when in the end it is intended for good. You are protecting yourself from the unknown. Prayers for the rest of your journey.
Pete Schloss says:
Thank you so very much Julie!
Michèle Angell says:
Peter! I’m so happy you gave yourself Grace! I was always surprised to find pilgrims “judging” who was more devout on the trail when walking the Camino myself when ANY thoughtful step is a blessing in of itself. Enjoy your new path. PS your photos inside the cathedral are stunning!
Pete Schloss says:
Thank you Michele! I hope that life is smiling upon you.
nancy wallingford says:
Beautiful pictures that I enjoy so much.
Pete Schloss says:
I’m happy that you are enjoying the journey!!
Andrea says:
I really appreciate the “moral” to this story and pilgrimage – and your title sums it up so well. I have enjoyed following this story as it has unfolded, and salute your courage to pivot and make a new ‘next thing.’
Pete Schloss says:
Thank you Andrea, and especially for understanding the idea of embracing a next thing!
Guy Teel says:
So interesting,,,thanks for the pictures and prose…
Pete Schloss says:
Thanks Guy. It’s always great to hear from you and know that you are following along!