Written October 24, 2023, aboard the Viking Star, in the Gulf of Mexico.

We departed Fort Lauderdale harbor yesterday evening. The wind had been up all day so it was no surprise that there was a chop to the waves that grew to significant swells as we cleared the breakwater.

We were pursued by the Harbor Pilot boat, tasked with retrieving the Pilot who was aboard Viking Star to direct our exit from the channel. From our balcony we watched the small vessel gain upon us, crashing through the waves. It was amazing to watch the boat finally snug against our ship’s hull and then the pilot carefully time his leap onto the pitching boat’s small forward deck. Dramatic!

Earlier in the day we attended the mandatory ship safety lecture, unpacked, and took a moment to breath. One advantage of this mode of travel is that one need only unpack and pack a single time over the course of the journey.

We have never considered ourselves “cruise people”, but here we are on our 4th Viking Ocean cruise. The first was in 2018, 15 days, Puerto Rico to Barcelona Spain. The second in 2019, 22 days Buenos Aires Argentina, around Cape Horn to Santiago, Chile. And the third, last year, was 18 days from Barcelona to Buenos Aires.

The highlight of this 18 day trip is a transit through the Panama Canal.

Relative to other cruise ships, this one is small at only 900 passengers. Yesterday we saw the throng waiting to board the Regal Princess (3,600 passengers, 1,600 crew) and were thankful not to be among them.

Each of our cruises, this included, follows a set formula: No children, No casino, No dress-up night, All inclusive. The atmosphere is casual elegant. The service is expertly attentive yet friendly. This continuity suits us. “If it is not broken, don’t fix it.”

Our stateroom is attended twice each day by Guna from Bali, and Unray from Bermuda. Should we require additional assistance they are also available to us 24/7.

38 year old Unray (on the right) has previously sailed these waters and beyond as a passenger. He is certainly gaining a different perspective now.

Last evening Christine and I enjoyed a relaxing dinner. With consideration to the vessel’s motion and Christine’s tendency toward early voyage motion sickness, we ate lightly.

We also attended an excellent one-hour lecture by the ship’s resident historian, William Whobrey, PhD, on pre-Columbian civilizations.

Doctor Whobrey’s resume includes 25 years in the US Army, 20 years as an instructor and Dean at Yale University, and he is currently translating a medieval German saga. He will be presenting throughout the voyage, as will 4 other expert guest lecturers in the fields of geography, history, architecture, culture, and biology.

Later, Christine returned to our room to take a Dramamine and stave off nausea. I, however, attended a showing of the 2022 movie, “Avatar: The Way of Water”.

At over 3 hours long this movie that grossed over 2 billion dollars is a tour-de-force of animation. It is visually stunning in its realism. I found myself occasionally smiling as the water images that played out on screen seemed synchronized with the rolling motion of our ship.

I often have wondered what Wilbur and Orville Wright would say if they could see the current technology in aviation. Last night I had the same thought as I reflected upon Walt Disney’s 1928 ten minute animated short, “Steamboat Willie”, and the 1982 dawn of computer generated feature films, Tron.

“Steamboat Willie”
“Tron”

While I’m on the subject: for those who subscribe to Netflix, I highly recommend “Love, Death, and Robots”, a series of animated shorts that are not kid appropriate.

“Love, Death, and Robots”

Tomorrow we make our first port-of-call, Cozumel, Quintana Roo, Mexico.

Until then, Peace Everyone. Pete

PS. It is remarkable to me that these posts are read by folks from around the world. I can’t see who reads them, but I can see where they are read. Yesterday’s found itself read in 19 countries, posts from our most recent journey were read in over 50 countries. To my knowledge I don’t know anyone in Czechia! I read all comments and reactions. Time allowing I try to respond. Please know that I deeply appreciate you who follow us. Pete

Written October 23, 2023, at Fort Lauderdale, Florida.

Today was our departure day. We were bound for Fort Lauderdale and the start of our 19 day journey through the Panama Canal and parts beyond. In deference to our 7 AM flight from Kansas City the alarm was set for 3:15 AM. I beat it by 15 minutes. Christine grumbled, rolled over, and then reluctantly joined me on this side of dreamland. Nothing unusual.

Except that yesterday morning not one, but TWO of our toilets decided to malfunction. A trip to Home Depot for some parts and armed with knowledge I have accumulated over the years, I had both stools doing their duty again by noon. No big deal.

Over the last week we had given deep thought to what we should take and not take. Our bags were packed and we were confident that nothing important was overlooked. I had even pre-ordered a 4:15 AM UBER to take us to the airport. He was in our driveway 15 minutes early. We were off… no traffic and no drama.

Our Delta Kansas City flight and connection out of Atlanta were on-time and went off without a hitch. We even enjoyed light snacks and relaxing conversation in Delta’s Atlanta Skylounge. We were among the first off the plane at Fort Lauderdale, our bags were quickly in hand and there was no wait for the taxi that delivered us to the Embassy Suites Hotel where we were booked overnight, anticipating being shipboard Tuesday. All was just as we planned.

2 rounds of complementary evening cocktails at the hotel were the delightful accompaniment to dinner at an elegant nearby restaurant. Still, it was nothing more than what we expected.

I remarked to Christine that the day was extraordinary only for how well it played out. Her response brought me up short.

Christine reminded me that barely 4 months ago I was struggling to speak, unable to put more than a few words into a sentence. I used a hiking pole in one hand and her hand in my other to navigate a one block walk, the limit of my ability. Irrational anxiety paralyzed me to the point that I lost 12 pounds in a month. Nothing special? EVERYTHING we were doing was special given that near history.

How quickly I forget. Peace Everyone. Pete

 

Written October 6, 2023, At Kansas City, Missouri.

Most of us are creatures of habit. We like routine and when our routines are disrupted, we are often annoyed.

Example: An employee parking lot without assigned spaces, yet repeated use of a particular spot brings with it a sense of ownership. (annoyed and spoken under one’s breath) “Who the f*** parked in my spot today!”

Another example: Earlier this week I was invited to sit in on a community college history class. It was an excellent experience, but a bit sobering. I was significantly older than the professor, and shocked to see how young college students had become in the last 50 years! Prior to class I had been cautioned to sit in a particular seat so as not to “take a student’s seat”. This is despite the class having open seating.

Those are relatively benign examples yet when change is imposed by another person or agency and we feel powerless in its face, that person/organization may become the target of more extreme anger, vilification, and even conspiracy theories.

I recall when national legislation mandated the demise of most incandescent light bulbs, instead requiring the use of the more efficient compact fluorescent and led lights. Incandescent lights typically last 1,500 hours and convert only 10% of electricity into light, the other 90% is converted to heat. Who remembers the Hasbro “Easy-Bake Oven” which used a lightbulb as the heat source with which children could bake small cakes, “just like mom”.

Conversely, compact fluorescent and led lights last upward to 25,000 hours and use 75% less energy to create the same amount of light. A 60-watt equivalent led light uses only 7 watts of energy, about the same as an old incandescent “night-light”.

It seemed a no-brainer; less electricity used in a longer life bulb meant significant money saved and it was good for the environment… Yet certain (dare I say conservative?) elements of society saw this as a grand conspiracy. They decried this as an attack on our personal freedoms, much as they did with the introduction of and later mandated use of seatbelts, motorcycle helmets, smoke-free flights, childhood vaccinations, etc. (COVID masks anyone?)

My dear mother (may she rest in peace) railed against the Obama Administration, blaming the President for taking her lightbulbs from her. Educated with a master’s degree, logic could not eclipse her anger. I learned the hard way to avoid this and many other topics during our frequent telephone chats, “Peter Michael, I don’t know why YOU think the way you do. NO ONE ELSE IN THIS FAMILY DOES!”, and with that there would be a loud “click” the line going dead.

Our electric utility in this part of Missouri, Evergy, recently implemented a timed rate structure. During the weekday peak use hours of 4 pm to 8 pm rates become significantly higher and from midnight to 6 am they are significantly lower. This provides a financial incentive to moderate use during the periods of high demand, thus reducing the need to construct greater generation capacity… good for the company, good for the environment, and good for the customer, win, win, win, right? Not with everyone.

Social media has been lit up with some folks calling it communism, the heavy hand of government, corporate greed, etc. My efforts to explain the system and the rationale behind it have merely made me a target of vilification and conspiracy, “I bet you work for Evergy!”. Even producing the proof that my electric bill has been reduced 30% by timing the use of appliances and changing the thermostat during peak hours has fallen in those circles upon deaf ears.

Sometimes we are our own worst enemy. Sometimes we act contrary to our own best interests… just to make the point that we can. And sometimes those who reach out to lend a hand find that the hand gets bitten. It is a wonder that our species has flourished. Give us more time and Nature will eventually have the last word.

Peace Everyone. Pete

 

Written September 28, 2023, At Kansas City, Missouri.

I learned today of the murder of a friend in Northumberland, England. The coward took her life late last night, a senseless act of premeditated violence that has left the region, the country, and those of us over the world who knew her, in shock.

I met her earlier this year on March 31st as I was hiking the trail along Hadrian’s Wall. It was the day before my birthday.

It was also a difficult day. Long, and punctuated by steep climbs and treacherous descents on rain slicked rocks and muddy cutback paths. My spirits had been brought low by the bone chilling drizzle and dense fog which frequently denied me the full vistas that my eyes yearned to see.

She stood waiting for me at the bottom of a steep vale. I was breathing hard, and my legs trembled from the fight against gravity that had threatened to bring me crashing down the cliff face.

She was famous; indeed, a star having appeared in countless photographs, paintings and even with Kevin Costner in the movie, “Robin Hood, Prince of Thieves”. Yet she was humbly a servant dedicated to all of us, rich and poor, young and old, every day of the year.

Upon sight of her my emotions were immediately lifted. I beheld a family gazing upon her in awe. I approached, and after a moment’s hesitation I embraced her. Strong, tall, almost eternal, she was unyielding to my arms yet soft to my soul. My spirits soared! She was glorious in the pictures that I took of her, but I knew that the images would not convey to Christine her majesty.

Last night she died, murdered. What I know is that a 16-year-old male has been arrested, allegedly having cut her down in her prime. His weapon, a chain saw.

Image from The Independent.

Along Hadrian’s Wall, her home has long been known as “Sycamore Gap”. It is where she put down roots. It is where she now lies in death.

Birds once sang in her arms. No more.

Lovers once laughed at her feet. No more.

Children once danced around her. No more.

… and aging hikers found encouragement to continue, no matter how difficult. No more.

Today the Earth cried a tear and so did I.

Peace Everyone. Pete

PS. There was another tree. I caught a glimpse of her in February of 2017 as I drove past. It was near Carpinteria, California. She was so stunningly beautiful that I risked an accident to stop and take her picture. She died later that year in the Thomas wildfire that tore through the region.

 

Written September 24, 2023, At Kansas City, Missouri.

For those “tuning in” for the first-time, links to my previous posts that recap what brought me to this point are set forth below in a postscript.

It has been over 2 months since my last update, and nearly 4 months since my DBS surgery. The short answer to the question that has been privately asked of me many times is that I am well. Actually, I am better than well.

In my July update I reported: “…I was already experiencing a major improvement of my tremors, post-surgery and post brain bleed (without controller activation). The doctor posited that a “honeymoon period” of post-surgical tremor reduction is common. It is a temporary result of the minimal ablation to the thalamus that results from the insertion of the non-activated electrical stimulator in the brain. However, those benefits would have usually disappeared by now.

She further theorized that the additional impact of the brain bleed in the thalamus had extended and enhanced this effect, much as ablation through Focused Ultrasound might. She believes that the significant tremor reduction I am experiencing is still temporary.”

4 months later and the “temporary” tremor reduction persists. Moreover, the slight numbness in my tongue and occasional stumbling over the pronunciation of certain words has almost disappeared. I have returned to my former activities and exercise routine, including travel to Colorado with hiking at altitude (10,000+ feet), enjoying amazing sunrises, an early snowfall, and the joys of a pint in celebration of Oktoberfest. PROST!

 

Earlier this week I had a follow-up appointment with my neurosurgeon, Dr. Chang. I drew an Archimedes spiral, two straight lines and gave a sample of my handwriting. This was compared with similar efforts at my first meeting with her in late December of 2022 where I was asked to trace within pre-printed spirals and straight lines. A writing sample at that time was out of the question. Here are the contrasting “before and after” efforts of December 2022 and earlier this week:

December 21, 2022. 5 months before surgery.

September 20, 2023. Nearly 4 months after surgery.

A good friend and retired medical doctor once told me that one should hope never to be an “interesting case” to a physician. I became an “interesting case” when I developed a brain bleed nearly a week after the first surgery. That rare complication typically occurs at or immediately after the surgery. In Dr. Chang’s considerable experience, it had never occurred days after surgery. “Interesting”.

The “honeymoon effect” of tremor reduction typically lasts a few days, rarely as long as a month, never four months. “Also Interesting”.

The quality of my tremor reduction is consistent with the level of tremor control experienced by patients whose DBS controller has been activated. Dr. Chang candidly admits that at this point there would be little further to gain in activating my device. “VERY Interesting”.

I think that I would have still preferred being an “ordinary” patient.

Will this unanticipated benefit last? It could end next month, next year, or never. If it does end then I will return to activate the DBS controller. Dr. Chang and I are scheduled to meet again next May to review my progress. Only time will tell.

The “Next Thing”:

On October 22nd Christine and I depart by plane for Fort Lauderdale, Florida. We will board the 900 passenger Viking Star for an 18-day cruise through the Panama Canal.

Viking Sky, from the Viking website.

The itinerary includes ports-of-call in Cozumel, Columbia, Costa Rica, Cabo San Lucas, Los Angeles, and of course Panama. As in travels past, I hope to post pictures and a near daily narrative, so stay tuned!

From the Viking website.

Peace Everyone. Pete

PS. I did not come to the decision to undergo DBS surgery easily. I announced it to my wife in an open letter published as I was hiking in Spain last year. Here is a link to that letter:

“The Decision”

I wrote in greater detail the specifics about the DBS surgical procedure. Here is a link to that post:

“My DBS Surgery”

The day before my scheduled surgery I wrote a post that was both a conclusion to our travels in England and my pre-surgery update. Little did I know how prophetic the title to that piece was to be:

“Shake, Rattle, and Roll (the dice) Surgery”

My second surgery occurred on June 16th, but on June 7th I suffered a brain bleed with symptoms that mimicked a stroke.

My DBS Surgery, A Stroke of Bad Luck.”

July 17th was my appointment to activate the controller that had been implanted in my chest on June 16th. Although the activated controller promised excellent tremor control it was decided to leave the unit turned off for a later date.

“My DBS Surgery, Dark Cloud or Silver Lining?”