My 2018 Camino Intersects Our 2024 Camino

Posted on June 18, 2024July 2, 2024 by Pete Schloss

Dear Christine, Renee, Friends, and Followers.

In 2018 Christine and I were walking the Portuguese Camino and after a very long day stopped at a Pension on the coast. After registering, we joined German pilgrims on the terrace for beer and conversation.

Greg is on the left, Faris (from Germany) it’s on the right. Sadly, Faris passed away two years ago. Stanley is seated to the left of me.

Shortly thereafter, a pilgrim appeared who had one leg and was proceeding with the aid of crutches.

He was from Poland, and spoke no English or German. One of our group, “Stanley”, was originally from Poland and acted as an interpreter. We learned that “Greg”, a deeply spiritual man, was walking his third Camino. The German couple at table, Reiner and Ina, inquired through Stanley as to why Greg did not have a prosthesis. Greg responded that It was not something he could afford. Reiner and Ina then spoke privately to another.

Again through Stanley, Reiner, (a doctor), and Ina explained that they owned a clinic in Germany specializing in manufacturing and fitting prosthetics. They offered Greg the opportunity to receive one at their clinic without cost. That was accomplished the following year and was documented in a German television program.

Today, as Britton and I were approaching the famous Irache wine fountain where the vineyard invites pilgrims to enjoy free wine from a spigot along the trail, our approach was being documented by a film crew.

Britton at the wine fountain. He chose the water fountain instead.

We again crossed paths with Abbey and Erica.

I soon learned that they were working on a television documentary about pilgrimage and the Camino. They were from Poland. The main interviewer lacked one arm and wore a prosthetic device in place of one leg. I told him of my experience in 2018. The film crew gathered around us and proceeded to interview Britton and me for about 20 minutes. In the course of the interview one of the film crew-members remarked that he knew Greg!

My life with Christine has been populated by remarkable moments such as this. Is it coincidence, or something more? The answer is irrelevant. That this happened and that it was noticed as something “special” is what is important. Please draw your own conclusions.

Peace and Buen Camino. Peter.

PS. Dear Christine and Renee. The day was not so long, but it was very hot. Britton has been dealing with an minor stomach upset but is powering through. He is beside himself with excitement that he will be a “television star“ on Polish TV.

We are in the town of Villamayor Monjardin where 11 years ago I climbed to the castle ruins above and enjoyed solitude along with the spirits of a bygone time.

This wonderful Albergue Oasis Trails is hosted by a Dutch confraternity. They will provide us dinner tonight, and breakfast in the morning. This evening there will be a special meditation service. This is another gift from the Camino.

Love to you both. Peace. Dad.

Dinner for 19 tonight at the Albergue Oasis Trails.

Estella, Spain

Posted on June 17, 2024June 26, 2024 by Pete Schloss

Dear Christine and Renee.

Another long day. Not as long as yesterday; Today totaled over 15 miles and 34,000 steps. The day opened with a crossing of the Puenta la Reina, the 12th century “Queen’s Bridge”. It was not even close to the oldest bridge we crossed today.

A 2000 year-old Roman bridge that leads up to the remnants of a Roman Road.

This day was more than a little challenging due to the brilliant sun and 90 degree temperatures. On a positive note, we got laundry done!! Our clothes needed it.

I’ve planned tomorrow as a very short day (9km) to Villamayor de Monjardin where we may visit a castle ruins that overlooks the small village. We will again be returning to communal living for the next couple of days.

We encountered a variety of pilgrims, some for the first time and others were repeat meetings.

Of note were Samantha and her mother, Lisa, from California. To say that they are adventurous souls would be an understatement. At 15, Sam bicycled across the USA, and at age 18 she is bound for university studies in engineering and possibly also law.

An alternative use of a driveway mirror!

By pure luck we happened upon the pilgrims we dined with last night. We reprised the experience… different food and venue, but the same endearing company.

I have to admit that I had lost track of this being Father’s Day. Thank you so much for the reminder! Wednesday is our 47th anniversary. Forgive me in advance if I space that off! Christine, it has been 50 years since we met… what a wonderful and fulfilling journey! As I have said so often, in the lottery of love, I hit the jackpot.

I will close giving you both my love and fondest thoughts. Pictures follow.

Love, Peace, Dad.

Our first rest stop in the distance, the village of Maneru.

A random unmanned Camino stand. The honor system at work.

This bicycle pilgrim uses her drone to capture images of the Camino aloft loft.

The Long Day to Puenta la Reina

Posted on June 16, 2024June 16, 2024 by Pete Schloss

Dear Christine and Renee.

Unlike the narrative in this post, today was a very long day. Over 7 walking hours, 17 miles, and 36,000 steps. This included a climb of over 1000 feet to Alto del Perdon where life-size metal cut outs of pilgrims on the Camino provide one of the iconic photo opportunities for pilgrims.

In the background are wind generators taking advantage of the elevation and constant winds aloft.

Britton was real trooper and never missed a step. Along the way we made the acquaintance of two young lady pilgrims from the United States, one (Chelsea who works in the field of social justice) from New York

and the other (Lexie, an art teacher) from California.

We later happened upon them and a group of pilgrims that assembled spontaneously for dinner. It was wonderful!

Our entourage included pilgrims from Germany, the Netherlands, France, Belgium, and the States. Camille from France has already been walking for 43 days and started in Le Poy France. She is introspectively trying to find the next stage of her life. She was seated next me a table and in the course of discussions with the group it emerged that she is a young lawyer who specializes in mediation!. We have exchanged contact information and perhaps more discussions will follow along the way.

Our ages extended from Britton’s 15 years to my 72. Our nations of origin differed as did our non-Camino lives, and yet there seem to be no distinctions among us a table. The spirit of the Camino and its “magic” were fully present.

It is late and a Saturday night. The streets outside of our second-story window are alive with the sound of revelers which may impact upon sleep…

…but not my satisfaction with the day. Pictures follow below.

Love to both of you. Peace. Dad

The interior of an old church we visited. Each square on the wood floor is a crypt containing a buried religious.

Shortly after this picture was taken the horse “let go“. The young lady had to dismount and clean up the mess, just like with dogs on a leash.

A church and a small community halfway to the top where pilgrims are gathered.

Looking west into the distance, the horizon is where our day ends.

Having completed our descent, we look back up upon Alto del Perdon.

Catching Up, Pamplona

Posted on June 15, 2024June 14, 2024 by Pete Schloss

Dear Christine and Renee.

FINALLY I have the bandwidth to upload pictures! We arrived in Pamplona this morning after a relatively short walk. Here is the recap of our last few days:

June 12th. We left the Monastery at Roncesvalles walking in a continuation of the cold, rain, and fog we “enjoyed” the previous two days. Into the morning the sky began to clear and the sun made its presence and warmth intermittently known. It was a good hike, mostly downhill into Zubiri. In the interest of brevity and an economy of time I will caption pictures where appropriate.

The original 12th century church at Roncesvalles

The second food truck we have encountered

A monument to a pilgrim who died on the Camino

June 13th. Pursuing a recommendation from our UK friend, Kate Hacket, we decided to stop short of a full hiking stage which would have taken us to Pamplona. The detour took us to the ancient church (1100’s) of San Esteban, and the Albergue Zabaldika which is run by Sisters of the Sacred Heart. There is only room for 12, and it is first come first served, no reservations permitted. We were a bit concerned that there would be “no room at the inn”. Our luck held and there were only 8, including us.

There is no “price” as the Sisters offer their hospitality, which includes spotless dormitory accommodations, dinner, a moving prayer/contemplation service, and breakfast in return for a donation. Only the hardest heart or thinnest purse would be less than generous. Oh yes, we also got to climb the church tower and ring one of the oldest bells on the Camino. This was a marvelous experience for Britton and me. I miss the friends that we met and the kindness of the Sisters who cared for us. The prayer service was especially emotional as a dear friend of a German Peregrino had died earlier that day. Again, pictures follow:

A group of American students on a 3 week (non-Camino) trip

San Esteban Church and the adjacent Zabaldika Alberge

Today, June 14th. The sun was shining and for the first time for us on this journey the thermometer topped 80°. (of course that’s Fahrenheit!) We had an easy walk into Pamplona, a city of over 200,000, known for its association with Ernest Hemingway and the Running of the Bulls. A couple of miles of our hike less pleasantly passed through an industrial area and suburbs before reaching the old city center. Britton voiced, “l miss the countryside!”

We have entered the outskirts of Pamplona

Britton (and I!) were ready for some privacy in our sleeping and bathroom accommodations. I looked for room availability in any nearby small pension or simple hotel, but struck out as they were all booked. It’s Friday. We adjourned to a small outdoor café to consider our options. The café was located in front of a four-star hotel and I thought, “What the heck, there’s no harm in checking.” They had a room in the price at €110 was not unreasonable for the city center.

It is courtesy of their excellent Wi-Fi that I am able to present this post and pictures. I also was able to reserve bookings for the next three nights which alleviates some stress. In the rural areas a private room for the two of us is about €50, including breakfast. These pictures from today include an afternoon visit to the Cathedral and Plaza del Castillo:

Archaeological Excavations beneath the Cathedral. 2000 year old Roman artifacts

Ours is an evolving experience. It has occurred to me that I am a participant in two Caminos: One Camino takes us on foot to Santiago, the other “Camino” molds an enduring relationship between a grandfather and a grandson. Like a picture frame that draws the eye and brings focus to the painting it holds, the Camino de Santiago frames what is the more important journey for me, my time with Britton.

Love to you both, Peace and… Buen Camino. Dad.

Written at Pamplona, the 14th of June.

The Monastery at Roncesvalles

Posted on June 12, 2024June 11, 2024 by Pete Schloss

Dear Christine and Renee’.

We were up and out of the refuge at Orisson by 8:00 AM. 7 AM breakfast was disappointingly thin and consisted only of French bread, butter, and jelly. There was hot coffee and orange juice.

There were moments when the fog cleared.

I had purchased sandwiches for us to carry along the way, ham and cheese on baguette. They were a lifesaver and did a great job of staving off hunger when we ate them around noon.

Much of the time today was like walking in the middle of a ping-pong ball. White out conditions. We could barely see 100 feet in any direction. It was cold, wet, with alternating rain and drizzle… and it was also wonderful!

A French gentleman walked with us much of the day. He speaks very little English. Britton and he conversed in French and Britton provided translation for me. He really cast his shyness aside.

The elevation increase (2100 feet) was greater than what we experienced yesterday, but spread over a much longer distance. Britton felt today was the more difficult of the two days and I felt yesterday was more challenging.

Today was a day to make friends and spend the hike with new companions. I will identify some of the pilgrims in the photographs.

Britton and I with a Saya (sp) from Romania and Jell (sp) from France.

Our group here includes Pierre from Sweden, Lana, Abbey, and Erica, from the States. we are at the border between France and Spain.

One surprise was a food truck in the middle of “nowhere”. Sodas, sandwiches, candy bars, and best of all homemade cheese made for a delightful pause in the hike.

Our group enjoying snacks at the food truck.

Britton has frequently vocalized how much he is enjoying this experience. He is blown away by the beauty and the variety of people that we are meeting. He is already planning to walk another Camino and take his friends along, him as their guide!

There were places where the mud was ankle deep and given the area livestock, of questionable composition. One of our companions, Lana from Washington, was wearing Crocs!

We will eat dinner at the monastery tonight at 7 with mass following at 8 PM. I have also arranged to take breakfast here before we “hit the road“ early in the morning.