Today in the span of less than 20 km we traded small charming mountain villages for the bustle of city life in Ponferrada (pop. 69,000).
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The descent to the river valley was steep, but not near as steep as yesterday.
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At times we could discern that we were walking ancient Roman roads.
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As if this needed confirmation, a sign led us off the route 150 meters to a 2,000 year old Roman fountain.
The Roman well is situated approximately 15 feet below street level. The cave-like interior. 2000 years and water still flows freely.
I am running short on time this evening, so I’ll post my pictures and provide some captions were appropriate.
Safe travels to the three grandchildren returning to the states. Continued grand journey for you and the remaining granddaughter. Love you Christine. Me
Peace Everyone and Buen Camino. Pete.
A huge snail contrasted against the handle of my trucking pole. El Acebo in the distance as we proceeded down hill. A monument to a bicycle pilgrim who died along the way. Progress!  by the end of the day we had less than 200 km to go. A pilgrim monument at Molinaseca .The 12th Century Knights Templar castle in Ponferrada. ..We did laundry today. It was a very modern automated facility. They do not allow you to put your dog or cat inside the washing machines or dryers. Another contrast on the day, my “albino”!feet! No blisters, yet!!!
As we left Rabanal, a spiritually rich village, Charlie waxed poetic, contemplating aloud the journey of Jesus from village to village 2000 years ago. Charlie remarked, “We are walking at the speed of Jesus.“
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I was thunderstruck. What a brilliant way to capture the moment. I stopped to write it in my phone and committed that those words would be the title of today’s post.
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Today was an iconic day with our ascent to the Cruz de Farro.
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It is a place of serious contemplation for many pilgrims, the highest point on the Camino.
The chapel at the Cruz de Farro .
Tradition calls upon us to leave a stone at the Cross to symbolically represent the release of some burden and a prayer asking strength and forgiveness from the Creator.
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I had forgotten just how much strength would be required for the downward descent to our next town, El Acebo. The path was steep, rock strewn, and treacherous. We and our hiking companion, Cornelia from Switzerland, relied heavily upon our trekking poles.
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Often times they were the difference between stability and a near fall. The distance might have been 19 km but it felt more like 30.
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Christine, I am thinking of you. In two days you will bid goodbye to three of your traveling companion grandchildren. I know what a wonderful experience this has been for you and them. I also know how sad the parting will be. Love, Me
Peace, Everyone and Buen Camino. Pete.
Here are other pictures from the day:
.....Charlie spotted this sticker on a sign today. ..Our lodging for the night
PS. On April 28, 2026, a dear friend and mentor, Edward “Ned” Coulson, passed from this life.
“Ned” Coulson
In 1980 I was fresh out of law school and seeking employment as a new attorney. Ned invited me to his office and offered me a small space, the use of his secretary and supplies. The cost, $350 a month. When I went home to tell Christine that I had a position at $350 a month she first wondered how we could possibly support our growing family on such a meager a salary. The look on her face was priceless when I explained it was not how much I would be earning but how much I would have to pay.
Ned assured me that I would never want for business and that my success as an attorney was all but guaranteed. He gave me confidence to go forward and the rest is history.
Astorga Cathedral at DawnA Telephoto shot of the statue standing atop the cathedral on the far right. It is a famous local folk hero known as Pedro Mato.
Today began with some challenges to my peace.
But how would one know the blessing of peace unless they had also experienced discord to compare it with?
Early in today’s walk there were three pilgrims listening to loud music on a very large bluetooth speaker. It was at maximum volume and audible for a radius of over 100 feet. Their pace seemed to mirror ours and the cacophony was inescapable.
Finally, out of frustration I approached the holder of the speaker. I said, “It is said that everyone walks their own Camino, but sir you are forcing everyone around you to walk your Camino.“
He was offended, but he turned the music down until eventually his small group was separated from the small group that I walked with.
Unfortunately, the stress of the moment lingered with me longer than the music.
Later in the day, Charlie and I checked into our room in a casa that is hundreds of years old.
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Christine, you know how special this village is to me, and how meaningfully my experience was at the ancient church here in 2013.
We attended portions of the liturgy of the hours, presented at 7pm and 9:20 pm by Benedictine monks here in Rabanal.
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Between Vespers and Compine we enjoyed a great meal, wonderful company and I the restoration of Peace.
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Love to you Christine
Peace Everyone and Buen Camino. Pete.
This is a little church outside of Astorga where it is said that in the 15th century a mother and her child were walking the Camino. The little boy fell down a well and would’ve drowned, except that the mother‘s prayers caused water to bubble up from the bottom of the wall and spill out the top, depositing the boy at his mother’s feet. The well is still visible under glass that is beneath the holy water fountain seen inside the church. .Progress! ..Whiskey, whiskey, whiskey! ..These are three women from South Africa. The ribbons they carry on the back of their packs, are prayer intentions that they have brought with them from their home country.A monument to a fallen pilgrim 
Today has been a full and satisfying day! Tomorrow brings a longer day with a climb to Rabanal. So far the weather has favored us. No rain, morning temperatures in the upper 40’s and low 50’s, and the heat of the day holding off until afternoon when our day’s walk has finished.
Rain does now appear in the forecast but only 2 days out of the next 10 and at that less than 40%. Fingers are crossed!!
Here are my pictures from the day with limited captions. My friend Albert from England has been kindly giving some details in the post comments. Thank you Albert!!
My love to you Christine.
Pease Everyone, Buen Camino! Pete
The start of our day, 7:30 AM on the road. .One of a number of beautiful murals that we have encountered over the last few days. 204 km down, 300 to go! The medieval bridge at Hospital de Orbigo. These two lovely ladies are from Hungary and are volunteers for two weeks managing a Hungarian Albergue in Hospital de Orbigo. Sadly, the priest who was the primary head of the albergue passed away this past year. The future of the albergue is in doubt. The beautiful garden maintained by the ladies at the Hungarian Albergue. Fresh cherries are on all the tables and beer is only €1.50!This gentleman had set up a table with souvenirs and snacks in his garage. All he asked was a donation.Can you believe it… He is a Green Bay Packers fan! .Astorga is in the distance. Past this cross was our long descent. A pilgrim oasis! Hot coffee, sodas, fruit, and snacks. All is available for a donation. .This German pilgrim uses a cart which is attached to a belt to transport his pack. .The Astorga Cathedral ..The chapel within the Bishop’s Palace. A rather bizarre medieval image in the cathedrals museum.The “Bishops Palace” designed by Anton Gaudi. as it turned out it was never occupied by the bishop. It is now a museum. The bishops dining room 
Written 10 June from Hospital de Orbigo (a town not a hospital)
As promised here are pictures of the Leon Cathedral. As a “bonus” we were walking in the countryside and as I passed what I call a “Hobbit House”.(looks like a big underground storm shelter)
Examples from my 2013 Camino.
I saw two young men working to clear an overgrowth of brush.
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My curiosity drove me to try and communicate a question in pantomime, “What is this??”.
I eventually learned that it was a family bodega, underground wine storage. Originally his grandfather’s, but being restored and purposed by he and his brother. He invited us in!
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I would not have been surprised to see bodies and Dracula’s bride. I’ve been 24 hours still pulling cobwebs from my hair and clothes.
Love you Christine.
Peace Everyone. Buen Camino! Pete
............What post from the Camino would be complete without this and the next picture!Left to right: Michael and Lynn from Australia, Diego from Florida, me, Charlie, and Jane from Germany.
