Category: Travel
At Eirexe, June 21, 2026.
Dear Followers, Friends, Family, and Christine.
Christine… HAPPY FATHERS DAY to me, and thank you for the gift of children!! It is also the longest day of the year.
Another brutally hot day. I fear for Europe and perhaps for the Midwestern United States this summer.
We have had very limited Wi-Fi and cell signals, so I am going to limit my comments to captions on the photographs:
Love you, Christine
Peace Everyone. Buen Camino. Pete.
At Barbadelo, June 19, 2026.
Dear Followers, Friends, Family, and Christine.
Christine… HAPPY ANNIVERSARY!! #49.
We will have to do a better job of advanced planning so that these milestones are spent together. Next year, 1/2 century, for sure!
For Charlie and me we are closing in on the homestretch. We don’t hit the 100 km to Santiago today, but on June 20 it will happen. We have covered nearly 400 km to date.
Today began with lower temperatures and 100% humidity.
When the sun came out the temperatures soared, the humidity plummeted, and I was soaking wet first from condensation and later from sweat.
Nearly 20 km with our packs and paradise awaited us in the form of the best albergue so far on this Camino: Barbadelo.
Better still was Madi joining us for dinner. The three of us spent over two hours in nonstop conversation.
Whatever generational divide “should” have existed evaporated in the first five minutes.
Tomorrow is 20km to Portomarín. In the course of that stage we will pass the 100 km countdown mark to Santiago. In order to qualify for the Compostela (certificate) it necessary for the pilgrim to cover the last 100 km as a continuous journey.
Charlie and I spent an hour pre-booking accommodations to Santiago, and coastal villages of Finisterra, and Muxia. We anticipate that the number of pilgrims on the trail will increase dramatically after Sarria.
Christine, wishes for safe travel to Naples for you and our granddaughter. Love, and thank you for a magical 49 years!
Peace Everyone and Buen Camino. Pete.
Samos, June 18, 2026.
Dear Followers, Friends, Family, and Christine.
Today, Charlie and I took our first rest day. Tomorrow we are on to Barbadelo and the last 100 km to Santiago.
We toured the Benedictine Monastery at Samos. Monasterio de San Julián de Samos was founded in the 6th Century.
This huge facility has a current population of less than 20 monks. I imagine that vast areas are vacant and perhaps even neglected.
However, the church and side chapels are magnificent as is the vestry.
The halls are covered in incredible murals.
Over the ages, the monastery has suffered fires, the most recent of which was in 1951. Like the mythical Phoenix, it continues to rise from the ashes.
Unfortunately, the tour was entirely in Spanish. My choices were either to try and follow along on a translation app or to take pictures. Pictures won.
This is one of the largest and oldest monasteries in Europe. To provide some details and context here is a link to an article in Wikipedia:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Monastery_of_San_Xulián_de_Samos
The Wikipedia article also has a link to the monastery website, which is in Spanish. Translation is available.
Christine, I am thinking of you. 49 years ago today you became my wife. Love, me.
Peace, Everyone and Buen Camino. Pete.
Vega de Valcarce to O Cebreiro June 16-17, 2026.
Dear Followers, Friends, Family, and Christine.
Vega de Valcarce is larger than many of the villages that we have stayed in. It has a population of a little more than 500. It seemed to have everything we needed including our wonderful hostel: Two pharmacies, two markets, a bakery, and two cafés. Unfortunately, it only had one evening restaurant.
Our host Ana had sent us a text message advising that the restaurant was closed for one night, our night.
It was to market for us where we acquired a sumptuous picnic dinner that was sufficient to provide us with breakfast the following morning.
Bread, cheeses, meats, beer snacks, apples, chocolate, and of course excellent local wine.
We dined on our terrace, serenaded by the nearby murmuring stream.
A short time later, we were joined by Germans, Dennis and Galena. They brought beer, more snacks, and great company. They spoke excellent English, yet I enjoyed wandering into and out of German with them. (Tina, du wärst stolz.)
The next morning, June 17, Charlie and I metaphorically “girded our loins” (put on our packs and grabbed our trekking poles), preparing to do battle with the climb to O Cebreiro.
Hot and humid, the ascent was daunting. Over 2000 feet of elevation gain in 12 km. O Cebreiro would be our reward at the end.
Early in the climb we walked along a very narrow but steep country road. We were forced to step aside, a deep ravine to our backs, as a car made its way past us. My eye caught the woman passenger frantically waving at us through the glass. “Charlie, what was that all about?”
A few seconds later, I had my answer. At a wider spot in the road the car stopped and the passenger door flew open. Diane, Camino friend Madi‘s mom, jumped from the car yelling “Pete and Charlie!“
We visited long enough for an introduction to Tyler (Diane’s husband) a hug (from Diane), an update on Madi’s progress, and a selfie. Just one of those Camino miracles.
The second part of the “Camino miracle” occurred in O Cebreiro where we found Madi!
Another hug, more updates, and another selfie. Charlie and I hope that this young lady will stay in touch so that we can vicariously enjoy the progress of her life.
O Cebreiro is an ancient place.
The church was founded as a pilgrim refuge in the mid 800’s, just a few years after the discovery of the remains of Saint James (Santiago).
Inside the church there are venerated relics of a 12th century miracle.
During a vicious snowstorm, a Shepherd fought his way to the church to attend Mass and receive the Eucharist. The priest, not a very holy man, berated the Shepherd for his stupidity. However, during the consecration the bread and wine turned to literal flesh and blood. The blood permanently stained the altar cloth. The communion vessels and the altar cloth remain displayed in a side chapel and are venerated for their religious and historical significance.
Love to you, Christine.
Peace Everyone and Buen Camino. Pete.
Ponferrada, Villafranca del Bierzo and to Vega de Valcarce, June 15-16, 2026.
Dear Followers, Friends, Family, and Christine.
I am catching up on the last two days. Last night we were dog tired and the internet was down at our hostel.
On June 15 Charlie and I proceeded out of Ponferrada.
Unfortunately, we had asked directions and we were provided a map that clearly showed the route of the Camino… If you were driving a car.
For the first 4 miles we followed a boulevard, straight as a string, and wondered “where did all the pilgrims go?“
We received our answer when 4 miles down the road an uninterrupted column of pilgrims joined our roadway from a path to the far right. They were like a line of ants heading to a picnic lunch.
It has been brutally hot and the sun has beat down upon us like a blowtorch.
Not too bad in the early morning, but by early afternoon we have walked in temperatures at and above the mid 80s. No breeze or shade. Hydration has been critical. Worse is predicted.
We are in a very developed wine region.
Vineyards are everywhere. The following picture mirrors one that I took 13 years ago and often appears in tourist brochures.
As Charlie and I walked through the heat of the day we wondered out loud, “Where are all our Camino friends?“
We were seeing familiar faces, but not those of people with whom we had made a solid connection.
After arriving at our hostel for the night we proceeded to the Plaza Mayor for beer and tapas.
What to our wondering eyes should appear, but Madi from Florida! She jumped up and ran to greet us. Madi had been joined for a couple of days by her mother, Diane. It was a wonderful reunion and I think we nearly brought Diane to tears when we extolled the virtues of her wonderfully mature daughter. Madi no doubt has a bright future ahead of her.
After we joined them at table, who should appear but Michael and Lynn for Australia! A second table was pulled in to accommodate the new “crowd“.
That was not enough. A few minutes later and pilgrims Jim and Katie stood before us. More chairs, another table, and it was a party! It was also a gift from the Camino.
At table we were asked if we had taken a rest day. It seemed that everyone else had. Seeds of a suggestion were planted which took root and sprouted on the walk today.
We have decided it’s time for a rest day before the final 100 km. Therefore, after we visit O’Cebreiro (a tough climb to a high point on the Camino) we will seek out a lodging for two consecutive nights, perhaps at the monastery in Samos. Charlie and I both could use the physical and emotional rest, and fill up our spiritual gas tanks.
A word about our accommodations: On the first night Charlie and I stayed in a conventional albergue. Six beds in a single room with a shared bathroom down the hall.
From that point on we have searched for simple accommodations with the important points being that they include a private room and en suite bathroom.
Many times these have been a privately owned hostel or casa rural. Most of the time the ownership is proud of their simple accommodations, keeping them immaculately clean and comfortable.
Today’s room is no exception. This basic comforts come at a cost of €45-€75 for the room, sometimes including breakfast.
Considering that the dormitory arrangement at an albergue typically costs around €17 per person, it is good value for a significant upgrade in comfort and privacy.
Christine, I am so happy to hear that you and our granddaughter are getting along so well! You are making memories that will last a lifetime. Love, me.
Peace, Everyone and Buen Camino! Pete.
