Category: Thoughts

Hiking Along Hadrian’s Wall, Day Six

Posted on by Pete Schloss

Written April 3, 2023, at Chollerford, England.

Today: Spectacular sunny weather (a bit cold at 30° in the morning),

a spectacular hike (seven relatively flat miles),

spectacular scenery,

a spectacular preserved Roman fortress and museum,

These stones have inscriptions that are the ancient equivalent of “Kilroy was here”.

and I was able to enjoy part of this with my spectacular wife, Christine. It doesn’t get much better than that!

Ok… our accommodations here at the George Hotel are less than spectacular but then almost anything pales in comparison to our stay at Langley Castle. Our room is marginally serviceable.

Perhaps the highlight of the day was not “spectacular”, just the most delightful 10 minute conversation at a coffee van located in the countryside along the hike. This is Jimmy.

Jimmy manages a coffee and snack van. Jimmy is managed by his wife of 36 years, Lorraine. Jimmy is originally from Glasgow, Scotland and he has traveled the world over. But his current 6 year mission is to troll a free pint of ale at the Crown Pub and Inn, located just up the road from the George Hotel.

Jimmy told me that he recently secured a promise from the proprietor of the pub that if he sent her 50 customers he would get his free pint. I promised Jimmy that we would visit the pub and say, “Jimmy sent us“. Jimmy would only need to find 48 more “customers”.

I bought a cup of coffee from Jimmy and upon learning of my recent birthday Jimmy gave me a free muffin, only regretting that he didn’t have a candle to stick on the top.

This is the Crown Pub and Inn and two interesting vehicles on display in front. Christine is doing her best “Let’s Make a Deal“ hostess impression.

This is Amy. Amy is the proprietress of the Crown Pub.

She immediately rolled her eyes skyward and shook her head when I said, “Jimmy sent us!“ I didn’t need to explain any further. Amy knew that we were part of Jimmy’s scheme to troll a free pint. Jimmy is a Friday regular at the pub which serves excellent fare. Seen here is my baked cod and Christine‘s Pasta Bolognese.

I don’t know if Jimmy is going to find 48 other folks willing to play along, but I so enjoyed being a part of this story that I paid Amy for Jimmy’s 1st pint when he stops in this coming Friday. My best wishes to both Jimmy and Amy!.

Chesters Roman Fort and Museum is only a half mile from the George Hotel.

I stopped at the Fort to tour the extensive grounds and museum. First, however, I sent Christine a text message telling her of my plan. She replied that she was walking up the road to meet me at the site.

This is Christine at one of the main gates of the fort.

This is one of the 16 major garrisons located along Hadrian’s Wall. It is also the best preserved and excavated.

I estimate the partially excavated grounds of this Roman cavalry fort to cover over 15 acres, plus sprawling civilian encampments outside the fort. Most of these fortresses garrisoned up to 1000 men. However, this one was dedicated to cavalry troop so it garrisoned 500 soldiers and a like number of horses as the standard complement.

The grounds included barracks. Each room was designed to house 32 soldiers and their horses…

…storage facilities…

the commandant’s villa…

…the command headquarters…

and some “interesting carvings” to ward off “evil spirits”.

Most noteworthy were the extensive Roman baths located near the river.

These are the best preserved examples in the United Kingdom. The small vaulted stalls are “lockers” in the changing room.

The baths include three chambers, a caldarium, tepidarium, and frigidarium.

The names refer to the temperatures of those chambers. The hottest room, the caldarium, has a stone floor heated by fires stoked from a cellar below. The tepidarium maintained a moderate temperature, and the frigidarium had cold bathing water.

There were more hikers on the trail today than previously seen by me. It’s probable that this is because of Easter break.

This white pylon, the third that I have encountered to date, may mark the highest geographic point within the district.

The pylon that I saw a few days ago marked the highest point along Hadrian’s Wall.

Early on today’s hike I came upon an excavated site of an ancient Mithraic temple. This area is rich in buried ancient history!

Tomorrow I hike into the city of Hexham where we will be staying for two nights. There are only three more hiking days after that. More glorious weather is predicted… fingers crossed!

Peace Everyone. Pete

P.S. Not exactly a “Go Fund Me”, but if you are ever by the Crown Inn and Pub be sure to tell Amy that Jimmy sent you. Let’s all give Jimmy a hand on his quest for a free pint!

Langley Castle, a Pictorial Tour

Posted on by Pete Schloss

Written April 2, 2023, at Langley castle, England.

As I promised yesterday, here is a pictorial tour of Langley Castle. I have supplemented it with historical information from the Langley Castle website, and included a link to their own online “self guided virtual 3D tour“.

My own narrative will be presented mostly in the form of captions on my photographs.

We arrived at Langley Castle yesterday and reserved two nights in the Radcliffe Suite, departing Monday morning, April 3. I will continue walking east along Hadrian’s Wall and Christine will transport to our next accommodation, the George Hotel near the city of Hexham.

Here are pictures of our room:

The sign before the door of our suite.

(From the Langley Castle website) Built in 1350, during the reign of Edward III, the castle has retained its architectural integrity and is regarded as one of the few medieval fortified Castle Hotels in England. Over the past 600 years, the Castle has been owned, together with its estate, by Lords and Ladies whose names were frequently associated with the turbulent history of the Kingdom. During the 17th century the Langley estates became the property of the Earls of Derwentwater; Viscounts Langley. James , the third Earl and Charles his brother, took part in the Jacobite risings of 1715. They were subsequently executed at the Tower of London. A cross stands by the road from the Castle to Haydon Bridge commemorating their loyalty to the King of Scotland (their Lawful Sovereign), which reads: In memory of James and Charles Viscounts Langley Beheaded on Tower Hill 24th Feb 1716 and 8th Dec 1746 For Loyalty to their Lawful Sovereign

The property was confiscated by the Crown and its administration passed to the Royal Naval Hospital at Greenwich in London. Signs of the Admiralty’s influence can still be seen in the area. For example the anchor motif on the front of a house at Langley and the naming of a pub in Haydon Bridge as The Anchor.

In 1882 a local historian, Cadwallader Bates, purchased the property. The restoration of the Castle to its original 14th Century structure became a life’s work not only for Cadwallader, but also for his wife Josephine, who continued his work after Cadwalladers death in 1902. Josephine rebuilt the original chapel on the castle roof in memory of her husband and worked tirelessly until her own death in 1933. She is buried alongside her husband in the castle grounds.

There are nine feature rooms within the castle. Other rooms outside of the castle are deemed “Castle view rooms“.
Langley castle is a wedding venue with indoor and outdoor locations to host the ceremonies.

The restored castle has subsequently served as a private girls school. In 1986, it was purchased by Dr Stuart Madnick, a professor at the Massachusetts Institute of Technology, who converted it into a hotel. Langley Castle is set in a woodland estate of 10 acres (40,000 m2). One of the more remarkable features of the building is the south-west tower, which is occupied by no fewer than 12 garderobes (medieval toilets), four to each floor.

Before the castle was restored the floors were configured at different levels. These niches were the medieval toilets, four to each of 3 floors. They discharged outside to the grounds and running water below.
The tower staircase from ground floor to the battlements, five floors up.
Our “tour group“.
Our delightful and energetic tour guide, Chloe.
The chapel, also available for wedding ceremonies.
Event space within the castle.
Looking down the stairway tower.
The bar.
The hearth room.
An alternate view of the hearth room.
The main dining room.

Online 3D Virtual Tour: https://my.matterport.com/show/?m=afeqqAzTkA7&back=1

Langley Castle Website: https://www.langleycastle.co.uk/en/

Peace Everyone. Pete

Hiking Along Hadrian’s Wall, Day Five.

Posted on by Pete Schloss

Written April 1, 2023, at Langley Castle, England.

Yesterday was yesterday, and today is today. Signs on the side of Twice Brewed brought a smile.

Christine captured a shot of me as I made my way back to the Wall, and for five minutes there was sunshine.

It’s a wonder what a good night’s rest, fresh legs, and an energized spirit can do. It doesn’t hurt that it’s my birthday.

There were many people on the trail today, but virtually all were taking a Saturday stroll. There may have been one or two that were through-hiking, but east to west. My track is west to east.

There were periods of rain but never of sufficient intensity to warrant putting on my rain trousers. However, mist on the camera lens may have impacted the quality of the photographs.

Once more the guidebook grossly underestimated the distance and provided less than accurate directions on two occasions. 8+ miles and 22,000 steps with more precipitous up and down terrain was again the order of the day.

Nevertheless, it was a much better day than yesterday.

This spot is known as “Sycamore Gap” and appeared in the Kevin Costner movie, “Robin Hood, Prince of Thieves”.

I ended my day at a preplanned stopping point near Hadrian’s Wall. We arranged for a taxi to pick me up and transport me 7 miles off the route to Langley Castle where we will be lodged for the next two nights. On Monday morning a taxi will return me to that point so that I can continue the full route of Hadrian’s Wall.

Langley Castle is an honest to goodness 14th century fortress and we are booked into its premiere suite.

The small window in the center of the castle is our bedroom.
If you look closely at the large window above the entry you will see Christine in the hearth room.

Ours are royal chambers. The bathroom is larger than most hotel rooms and includes a huge tub (it fits two… to which we can attest), and a sauna/steam room.

The door on the right is our private sauna/steam room.

The walls are solid stone, 7 feet thick, and there is a sitting nook with leaded stained glass that looks out upon the courtyard.

Evening drinks at a fire in the hearth room followed by a suitably elegant dinner capped off the day.

We will tour the castle tomorrow and I will take my camera along. I hope to give you a virtual tour.

Peace Everyone. 71 year old Pete

P.S. As I have walked along these remnants of the once mighty Roman Empire it occurred to me that there have been many great empires; Egyptian, Persian, Greek, Mayan, just to name a few. ALL great empires and civilizations have two things in common: Their leaders and citizens believed the reign would be endless… and it wasn’t.

Hiking Along Hadrian’s Wall, Day Four

Posted on by Pete Schloss

Written March 31, 2023, at the Twice Brewed Inn, England.

Today was not challenging, it was not difficult,… It was HARD. This was one of the hardest hikes (relative to my age) I have undertaken in my 71 years. But more of that in a bit.

We continued to be enthralled with the owners and accommodations at Dacre House. Breakfast was lovely, made all the more pleasant in conversation with Tadeusz and Malgorzata, a delightful couple from Poland who are also sampling the wonders of Hadrian’s Wall.

We met them at dinner last night. Among the topics we discussed was the war in Ukraine. They explained that at the outbreak of the hostilities over 2 million refugees crossed into Poland and were given shelter and more. There was no government edict, no international organization, just 2 million people at the border and hundreds of thousands of Polish families lined up to voluntarily take them in. When international news crews arrived to obtain video footage and interviews of the “refugee camps“ they were amazed and disappointed to find there were none. Just families helping families.

At 9:30 AM I bid farewell to Clare and Stephan.

Christine remained with them till 11am when her text arrived for the next transport.

Initially the weather looked promising and I was able to immediately resume my trek along the wall.

Conditions quickly deteriorated. Temperatures fell, rain began, wind stiffened to over 30mph, and was interspersed with moments of driving sleet. It was a cold and miserable combination.

My rainproof windbreaker and rain pants were up to the task, even if I was less so. Thankfully, I had included gloves in my pack. Unfortunately, the pea soup mist meant that photo opportunities became nonexistent. My camera was relegated to the safety of its case for the last half of the day.

I was on the trail for nearly 6 hours. The guidebook reported a distance of slightly more than 8 miles but that must’ve been “as the crow flies“. My iPhone and steps counter each indicated it was over 10 miles, and 27,500 steps. Even those numbers do not tell the whole story. The topography was a constant up and down on rain slippery rocks and grass. The huge ascents challenged the lungs and the steep descents challenged the knees. There was no respite.

The trail climbed along the edge of cliffs that were hundreds of feet high.

Today I reached the halfway point which was also the highest point on Hadrian’s Wall. This picture is courtesy of Joe.

It is a wonder how the Romans constructed the miles of ditches, berms, and of course the wall with implements amounting to nothing much more than picks, shovels, and human sweat.

Tonight we are lodged at the Twice Brewed Inn.

It is a small working brewery with an excellent pub, dining room, and rooms.

We shared dinner, and gratitude for safely making it through the day’s hike with our Oregon friends, Joe and Julie, who also “weathered the storm”.

Tomorrow is my 71st birthday. I hope that nature will gift me clear skies and pleasant temperatures for my 5th day on the trail.

Peace Everyone. Pete

Walking Along Hadrian’s Wall, Day Three

Posted on by Pete Schloss

Written March 30, 2023, at Gilsland England.

Once again the day opened with rain but by the time I was mere steps down the road it had stopped.

The skies were mostly overcast throughout this 10 mile, 27,500 step day. The rain held off until shortly after I arrived at our destination, Dacre House in Gilsland. I don’t know how long this good fortune can last.

Today I no longer had to use my imagination to visualize “the wall“. It was everywhere!

But first I detoured to see the ruins at the Lanercost Priory. Founded in the 12th century it flourished until King Henry VIII closed all of the Catholic churches and abbeys throughout England. Most of Lanercost then fell to ruins, however the roof was restored on the main church and it remains in use today as an Anglican parish church.

The path that I walked today followed closely along Hadrian’s Wall. This was aside roads, through fields, and once again I flirted with livestock who flirted back.

These sheep followed hot on my heels across an entire meadow.

The wall was constructed with large fortresses every Roman mile (approximately 1.48 km), with two smaller fortifications located in between each of the larger ones.

At Birdoswald a major garrison was established, one of 16 near identical garrisons located along the length of the wall. This site, covering approximately 5 acres, housed 1000 soldiers, granary and weapons storage, and training facilities. Birdoswald has been partially excavated by archeologists.

This was a challenging day with significant climbs and descents. Tomorrow promises to be even more difficult. Our destination of The Twice Brewed Inn, located in the town of Once Brewed, is at the highest elevation along Hadrian’s Wall.

I find that walking in solitude brings me into conversation with my thoughts. The overwhelming beauty and historical significance of this land leaves me both humble and grateful.

Peace Everyone. Pete

P.S. Our good fortune is not just limited to the weather. We have again found ourselves hosted by wonderful people in an exceptional facility.

Dacre House B&B’s proprietors, Clare and Stephen, have created a charming lodge that borders on elegant.

Their skills also extend into the kitchen.

We enjoyed excellent dinners, mine a lamb stew, and Christine‘s a vegetable tagine.

Sleep will come easily tonight, breakfast will be welcome in the morning, and then I will be back on the trail. In 48 hours I will celebrate my 71st birthday. Another reason to be grateful.

In the meantime, here are some of the sign boards from today for those who are curious.