Our overnight 24 hour ocean passage from the Falkland Islands to the Beagle Channel and Ushuaia, Argentina, gave a hint at what the whims of the weather gods could offer to the unsuspecting mariner. A following wind gusted to over 35 knots and seas built to 15-20 feet.

Our vessel and crew were more than capable, but a wine glass on our dresser tumbled to its demise by gravity’s invisible hand.

We are quite literally at the end of the civilized world. Ushuaia, Argentina, is the southernmost city in the world. It was founded in 1884. With a population of approximately 60,000 it is a popular tourist destination for travelers who arrive by ship, train, highway, and air.

Ushuaia is the point of departure for most tourists who seek to check off a journey to Antarctica from their bucket lists. The city’s motto, “Fin del Mundo, principio de todo”, translates in English to “End of the World, beginning of everything”.

As inhospitable as the region is, it has been a place of human settlement for 10,000 years. Tierra del Fuego (land of fire) refers to the visage seen from ships of thousands of fires tended by the natives. These days the lights ashore are furnished by electricity.

In 1896 a prison colony was established here, not unlike Britain’s Tasmania and France’s Devil’s Island, where the nature of the island and environment contributed as much to the confinement as did prison walls and bars. Convict labor was instrumental in building the town infrastructure, including the prison, roads, and a narrow gauge railway. The prison was closed in 1947.

We participated in a 2 hour overview tour of the city which was hosted by Cami, our delightful guide.

The city is situated between the southernmost extent of the otherworldly Andes Mountains and the legendary Beagle Channel that offers some protection from the rages of Drake’s Passage as one passes from one great ocean to the other.

We have been two days in this port and there is too much for me to say in a single post. Therefore, I will focus my thoughts within this post on Ushuaia and reserve our experiences in the nearby Parques Nacionales Tierra del Fuego for a second post.

The bustle of Ushuaia belies it’s geographic remoteness. Trip Advisor lists over 100 restaurants that are open for dinner. There are hotels, banks, casinos and nightclubs… even a Hard Rock Cafe. Of course, there is no shortage of shopping for locals and tourists alike.

Every war creates two narratives, one written by the victor and one by the vanquished. Port Stanley in the Falkland Islands tells a very different tale from the one recited in Argentina. Argentina has not relinquished its claim to “The Malvinas”, the name by which it refers to that archipelago.

Ushuaia is Argentina’s declared capitol of The Malvinas, and the seat of its “government in exile”. It is also the site of its monument dedicated to the memory of the Argentine soldiers who lost their lives in that conflict. Neither they or Argentina’s claim to the islands are forgotten.

Our evening on the 25th concluded in town with a wonderful dinner at Isabel Cocina. The house specialty is a dinner for 2 served piping hot at table in an iron pan. The dish features your protein of choice simmering in a stew of vegetables and paired gravy. We could have opted for chicken, pork, lamb, or an incredibly huge crab which is fresh caught in the Beagle Channel… it was a pair of beefsteaks for us. “Starters” are available but not encouraged as the large loaf of oven warm bread is the perfect starter when enjoyed dipped in the main dish sauce.

The dinner for two, including drinks and gratuity, was $20 US. The experience was priceless.

Peace Everyone. Pete

PS. Part 2 will follow with a focus on the nearby National Park. Also, we are scheduled to round Cape Horn at 7am (4am US Central time) Wednesday, November 27th.

To most in the Northern Hemisphere it is an insignificant archipelago consisting of two main islands and nearly 800 small ones. However, to its 3,500 residents it is home. It is one of the most barren and sparsely populated places in the world, and its total land mass is smaller than the State of Connecticut. It ranks 7th from last in the world among 229 nations in gross domestic product. There are sheep, a lot of them. There are tourists, a few of them, and darn little else. Exploration has yet to yield any exploitable resources, whaling is a thing of the long ago past, and the decline of fishing is a very real result of the impact of climate change.

The hulks of abandoned vessels remain as a metaphor to what has never been and will likely never be.

Yet… Port Stanley is a charming and vibrant little community that features one Post Office, one bank, one shopping store, one gas station… and pretty much one of everything else that symbolizes civilization, including one brewery (Falkland Beerworks) and one distillery (Falkland Islands Distillers, founded 2016).

Owner, Richard McKee kindly showed me his 2 stills and allowed me a sample of the excellent gin. I did not leave empty handed. Oh yes, there are 6 taverns and 8 Legislators.

This is (literally) the Legislative House for the Island.

This is Christ Church Cathedral, the southern most Anglican Church in the world. The “arches” outside the church are the jawbones from 4 huge Right Whales harvested over 100 years ago.

Why then in 1982 would Argentina invade this peaceful nation and seek to subjugate its English speaking people who have a deep and historical connection to the United Kingdom and its Queen? Why then would England launch its largest naval task force since the Second World War to repulse the invaders?

The answers to these questions are complex and not to be found in the graves of 649 Argentine soldiers and sailors or the graves of 255 British soldiers and sailors. Another 2,500 were wounded. A total of 16 ships were sunk and nearly 140 aircraft were destroyed.

Oh yes, three of the island residents died, tragically killed by friendly fire.

37 years after the war the Falklanders are still haunted by lethal reminders. The Argentine Army placed tens of thousands of land mines in hundreds of strategically located minefields around Stanley and throughout the islands. Teams of experts have worked since the end of the war to locate and remove the ordinance. Six casualties are attributed to these efforts. It is hoped that the remediation will be completed by the year 2022.

Argentina’s claim to the Falklands is founded in the assertion that prior to 1832 they were considered part of the Provinces of the River Plate which later became part of modern Argentina in the mid-19th Century. Britain’s dominion has been continuous since 1832.

Perhaps Argentina’s ruling dictatorial Junta sought to deflect the attention of its citizens away from the country’s social and economic problems. Perhaps the ruling generals believed that Britain’s female Prime Minister lacked the resolve to respond. In any case, “The Iron Lady”, Ms. Margaret Thatcher was more than up to the task. The Falkland War lasted barely 70 days and ended with Argentina’s surrender and the fall of its military government.

Unfortunately, Argentina persists in its claims, even formalizing them within the provisions of its Constitution. The Falkland Islanders have no desire to become Argentina’s subjects. They acquired full British citizenship in 1983, and thus the elements remain in place for future conflict.

Two thirds of the Falkland residents live in the colorful town of Stanley. Everything in the Islands outside of Stanley is called “Camp”. Elementary School outside of Stanley is conducted by teachers who travel a circuit. High school age children from “Camp” attend boarding school in Stanley. University education is pursued in Great Britain, entirely paid for by the Falkland government.

There is a small (24 bed) hospital that also features one ICU bed and one maternity bed. Specialist are flown to the Falklands when needed, but any planned procedures are performed in Great Britain. All medical care, including transportation costs, are government furnished. Immigration, including by UK citizens, is strictly limited. However, any citizen of the Falklands may freely live anywhere in the United Kingdom.

The Falklands are located about 750 miles from Antarctica. It’s climate is tundra and subantarcic oceanic. The weather for our visit was cool, but otherwise spectacular. One very seasoned traveler said that of his 7 visits to the Falklands this was the first time that he saw the sun and it was not raining.

It abounds with 5 types of penguins and many species of albatross, However, all are experiencing population decline. In fact, of the 21 species of albatross 3 are critically endangered and the remaining 19 are threatened.

These remarkable birds have wingspans of up to 12 feet, mate for life, and have a lifespan of over 40 years. They have the ability to fly over 10,000 miles without landing!

Viking Sun, though it is considered a small cruise ship, is too large to enter the harbor. Our access to the harbor was accomplished by a continuous rotation of the ship’s tenders.

We were fortunate to share much of our time in the Falklands with Larry and Sharon, our friends from Colorado. None of us ever imagined that the day would come that we would step foot on this incredible land.

Peace Everyone. Pete

As predicted, the seas and winds increased through the night. Conditions never really became tense, but my morning exercise required some supplemental wall support through the balance portions of my yoga routine. More on that in a bit.

I am typing this in the afternoon. The seas have flattened and winds moderated.

The sky indicates that we have left the influence of the low pressure (storm) area. In the course of yesterday’s weather briefing by the Captain he exhibited some wind charts that were associated with the weather front. I have a bit of a “prior life” history as a sailor. Sailors know that a quick trick to locate the center of a low pressure area is to turn one’s back to the wind and extend the left arm to the side. The left hand thus points in the direction of the center of the low pressure system. As I looked at the Captain’s chart I noticed that it was backwards. Using the sailor’s “trick” the prevailing winds were indicated on the right and not the left… how curious.

Last night we were on deck to observe the Southern Cross, the Southern Hemisphere’s answer to the North Star. To port we also saw the very familiar constellation Orion. However, Orion’s sword was pointed up from his belt, not down. Orion was upside down!

Then it struck me. In the Southern Hemisphere the Coriolis effect which is caused by the earth’s rotation is reversed! Low pressure spins clockwise, and of course Orion appears upside down because we are “upside down”! I haven’t tried it yet but the drain in our bathroom sink should also display these reversed properties as water exits the bowl.

Consistent with my habits, I remain an early riser aboard the Viking Sun. My day begins with a 6am visit to the excellent workout facilities. I am seeing the same faces there each morning as it opens. My routine is 45 minutes of yoga, 15 minutes of free weights, and 30 minutes of cardio.

Adjacent to the workout facility is the Spa. There is a central “jacuzzi” pool with water that vigorously circulates. There is a separate hot tub, heated lounge recliners, a steam room, sauna, and wonder of wonders, a “blizzard room” where one is exposed to sub-freezing temperatures and blowing snow. Performing the cycle of pool, sauna, steam, and snow is wonderfully invigorating.

Yes, that’s real snow!

Christine quickly made the acquaintance of the ship’s massage therapist, Marianna from Norway. Chris enjoyed a 90 minute session on our second day out.

Before retiring to bed the previous night we place our order for breakfast to be delivered to our room in the morning. I time the delivery for my return from exercise. Christine is up to share breakfast and each shipboard day commences with this endearing ritual.

By 9:30am we are out and about. Today, as I was taking photos for these posts, I was asked to take pictures of the Captain and the executive staff.

We are taking a 13 lesson sequence of classes on how to play Bridge. The instructor is not only an accomplished player but adept at presenting a well organized curriculum. Lessons are not given on days that we are in port. We shared our table today with Bobbie, who is one of the 59 passengers circumnavigating the globe on this voyage.

When we are not touring a port-of-call we occupy ourselves with reading, writing, relaxing poolside, and attending any number of the lectures, classes, and events that are available each day.

A pre-dinner highlight for us is either high tea in the late afternoon or drinks and music in the atrium, shared with new friends. We are not above doing both.

Dinner options include one of three formal restaurants.

The first of these is Manfredi’s, an Italian themed venue with a wide ranging menu. In addition to destination themed specials there is an 18 day rotating menu cycle. Dress is business casual and while the sommelier selected wines and beers are included, there is also the option to select from an excellent reserve list for a fee. Last nights included wine was a wonderfully complex Primitevo that would have otherwise been serve any other night at $50 a bottle.

“The Chef’s Table” is the dining venue that focuses upon the chef’s creative whims. It is a smaller and more intimate setting. Reservations are advised for both The Chef’s Table and Manfredi’s.

Finally, there is “The Restaurant”. A bit more laid back but still elegant. It also features daily specials and its own distinct menu that processes through a 16 day rotation. Reservations are not required.

Our evening usually closes with music, an excellent cognac (me), and conversation with like minded friends.

A shipboard nightclub is available for the dance inclined. Gratitude is an often shared theme before we are embraced for the night by our fluffy goose down comforters.

Peace Everyone. Pete

PS. We arrive in Port Stanley, the Falkland Islands early tomorrow. If you have any questions that you would like me to address, please ask and I will do my best to answer.

Also, I apologize that my last post was sent out at least 3 times. I am presuming there was some kind of a communication glitch between the ship’s satellite system and my website server that is beyond my control or understanding.

This is our first full day off-shore and thus a good opportunity to present a tour of the ship and an overview of a typical day. However, the day has already included the non-typical with the Captain calling passengers to assemble for important information about a coming “weather event” that will be impacting us. More on that later.

Of course day begins in our state room onboard the Viking Sun. This ship was commissioned 2 years ago and is considered in the small ship category at 745 feet long, 95 feet on the beam, and accommodating 900 passengers and 450 crew. These days the “big ships” can exceed 5,000 in passenger capacity.

We are in what is known as a Penthouse Veranda. It is an upscale category that features a larger room, larger balcony, and other amenities such as a mini-bar that is restocked daily with beer, wine, liquor, soft drinks, and snacks at no additional cost.

There are no “downscale” accommodations as all rooms have balconies.

Our room is very comfortable and inviting, but then we don’t intend to spend all our time within.

The ship abounds with luxurious community spaces comprised of lounges, “living rooms” and quiet studies. There are expanses of glass that invite one to feel a part of the elements but without feeling the elements.

A large swimming pool is located center and features a sliding glass roof that permits use regardless of the temperature/precipitation challenges at hand.

Aft is an “infinity pool” where the rear wall is made of glass and extends over the stern of the ship. The effect is a bit intimidating at first, but a cocktail or two presented poolside tend to alleviate any insecurity.

All passengers must be at least 18 years of age. There is no casino. Evening attire is business casual… relaxed elegant. During the remainder of the day shorts, jeans, tees… are all appropriate. We are about in the “sweet-spot” for age, mid-60’s to mid-70’s. There are some folks younger, some folks well beyond their 80’s, and the entire ship is accessible for those who are physically challenged. The crew are highly trained, most professional, and remarkably the general manager for the restaurants and a maitre’d specifically remember Christine and me from our Atlantic crossing last year.

Each day presents a myriad of options for activities, some of which are featured in a large amphitheater. On day one this included the mandatory ship emergency drill.

This was followed up by a presentation on the flora and fauna of Patagonia. Each day includes a number of timely lectures that are germane to the local history, culture, and ecology.

The ship has a number of exceptional dining venues. Whereas some cruise ship companies feature food “by the trough”, Viking preserves elegant as an overriding concept no matter the choice. I will present more on the dining options later, but for now I will merely say that all dining, no matter the level, is included at no additional cost. Beer and wine are complementary at all meals.

The ship is a floating museum of art. A downloaded app allows real time access to information on any one of the thousands of pieces on display.

It is also a music venue where accomplished musicians add to the ambiance of classic nobility.

End Part 1.

Peace Everyone. Pete

PS: The “Weather Event”.

This morning Captain Lars Kjeldsen made a special announcement concerning an approaching weather system. He convened a presentation in the auditorium for those wishing more detailed information.

Our next port of call was scheduled to be Porto Madryn on the coast of Argentina. Unfortunately, a building weather system is approaching and renders it imprudent to remain in those waters. Winds are predicted to exceed 50, and perhaps 60 knots. Therefore, the Captain is directing the ship to advance directly south to the Falkland Islands where we will arrive early on the 23rd. Rather than 2 days there we will remain only one and then continue on to more protected waters in Ushuaia where we will remain 2 days before rounding Cape Horn.

In spite of these measures it is expected that we will experience difficult conditions for about 12 hours. The ship and crew are more than sufficient for these challenges. The Captain’s presentation was reassuring, but realistic. I harbored some hope that this voyage might be memorable… perhaps I am being granted my wish.

The Captain concluded his remarks by saying, “… and as always let’s be good each other”. Good words for all of us in life’s weather both fair and foul.

Pete