We boarded the Viking Sun on Monday, November 18th and secured our belongings into our “home” for the next 21 nights.

Christine had heard of Uru, a custom leather shop located near the Cementerio Recoleta so rather than just hang out aboard the ship we returned to the port terminal to hail a taxi back into the city center. At the terminal, helpful young ladies offered to secure a taxi for us, “only $25.00 US”, double for a round trip. Fortunately our 4 days spent in the city had educated us to the economy. We thanked the well meaning terminal employees who cater to the less initiated and walked to the street where licensed cab drivers were waiting. The fare into the city cost us less than $6.00 US, the return was less than $2.00 US.

At Uru Christine quickly found her heart’s desire in a beautiful lambskin leather coat.

Her quest accomplished we returned to the ship for dinner, a nightcap, and a deep breath. As seems typical for us we quickly made the acquaintance of some other passengers, most notably Larry and Sharon from Colorado. They are retired physicians, “horse people”. Larry has developed a second life/profession as an accomplished concertina player and principle in a music group that features Celtic and classical music. We have much in common with these good folks and look forward to sharing time with them.

Tuesday was our first full day on Viking Sun. The ship is midway in a circumnavigation of the world that has been qualified as a record by the Guinness Book of World Records as the longest (in days and miles) regular schedule cruise itinerary ever. Approximately 60 of the 900 passengers are London to London passengers who have paid for the entire 11 month voyage. Others, like us, are segment passengers.

We returned to the city for a ship sponsored tour, seeing some new neighborhoods but mostly revisiting sites we had already seen. Our excellent tour guide provided helpful local information that gave extra dimension to our experience in Buenos Aires.

Back at the ship I began photographing aspects of the onboard experience for use in a future post. I also spent some time in the ship’s gym. At sunset the Viking Sea sailed from Buenos Aires Argentina for a night crossing of the expansive Rio de la Plata Bay which forms the natural boarder between Argentina and Uruguay. The departure and sunset made for some spectacular pictures and memories.

After sunset we shared dinner, conversation, and a nightcap with Larry and Sharon. Background music was supplied by a violin and cello duo from the Ukraine… Magical!

Our second morning on Viking Sea brought us into the harbor at Montevideo, the capital city of Uruguay. This is a decidedly working port which is abuzz with commercial activity. A curious ship graveyard greets one at the entrance to the protected waters.

We enjoyed a 2 hour bus tour of the city, after which Christine and I walked solo to find a “local’s” dining establishment.

Where Buenos Aires had a largely European feel to it, Montevideo presented a much more Caribbean atmosphere. Here is what we saw and learned in this one day port-of-call:

Uruguay is the smallest nation in South America. It is bordered by Brazil to the north and Argentina to the south. Uruguay is home to 3.5 million people and is one-fourteenth the size of Venezuela… one fortieth the size of Brazil. It is further dwarfed by Brazil’s 200+ million population and Argentina’s 44 million citizens.

Uruguay is a progressive nation where there is universal healthcare and free education, including university studies. Same sex marriage is recognized as are a woman’s reproductive rights and decisions. Women were granted the right to vote about 10 years earlier than in the United States. Also, recreational and medicinal marijuana are legal, but restricted to its citizens.

Our tour included a stop at Plaza Independencia, home to the President’s offices and executive branch of government. At center is the monument and tomb of Jose Artigas (1764-1850), the national hero and “Father of Uruguay”. We also viewed the Parliament which is located elsewhere in the City.

Uruguay, like neighboring Brazil and Argentina, has a 19th Century frontier history not unlike the US American West.

Soccer (“Futbol”) is the national passion. The stadium in Montevideo seats over 70,000 and was the site of the first World Cup event (which it won) in 1930. The national team also won the World Cup in 1950, in addition to being victor in two Olympics. It boasts the most Copa America titles of any country. Remarkable for a country that is so small!

We depart Uruguay tonight and we will be at sea for the next two days. Our next landfall will again be in Argentina, but in the Patagonian sub-continent. The temperature today approached 90 Fahrenheit, unusually warm here for this time of year. We are bracing for much cooler temperatures for the next two weeks.

Peace Everyone. Pete

We had decided that we would hit the streets of Buenos Aires early today. Eyes opened and feet to the floor at 6:30 a.m., unfortunately that was Kansas City time. By local Buenos Aires time we had overslept. It was 9:30. To be honest, we needed the sleep more than the City needed us.

Showered, dressed, and in the hotel lobby we were confronted with our first obstacle of the day, rain. I was prepared with a waterproof windbreaker, but Christine found this to be her first “I forgot it” article. The hotel kindly lent her an umbrella and we were off to find her a raincoat.

15 minutes walk took us to a very upscale shopping district and gallery.

Outside the Pacifico Galaria was a long and broad pedestrian avenue where we frequently encountered men and women who would approach asking, “Cambio?,,, Cambio?… Cambio?…” We later learned that these were black market money changers who preyed on unsuspecting tourists. They offer to exchange currencies at a discount and without requiring and registering identification (as the law dictates), but as often as not they supply counterfeit or retired currency that is worthless. Live and learn, we avoided the trap.

The shopping gallery was beautifully opulent by any US standard. The shops were prepared for Christmas well in advance of Summer. Remember, seasons are reversed here and December 21 to March 20 is Summer. We are currently in the middle of their very verdant Spring with flowers evident everywhere.

Christine secured an attractive “impermeable” that will serve her well here and at home.

We next found a “Hop on – Hop off” tour bus.

For $1.300 AR (about twenty dollars US) per person one is issued a ticket for the bus. You receive an inexpensive set of headphones which plug into a built in audio console located at each seat. A switch gives you access to the running narrative in any one of a dozen languages. We chose English. The ticket is good for 24 hours and you can “hop on – hop off” as often as you like at any one of 33 stops. This gave us an excellent overview of this very modern city.

Buenos Aires is a wonder of lush gardens…

Expansive boulevards… (the Avenue 9 de Julio is said to be the widest boulevard in the world, and at 18 lanes, plus dedicated bus lanes and centered parks its entire length, I believe it. To cross the “boulevard” one negotiates a series of pedestrian friendly walkways. It is one-tenth of a mile, one side to the other!)

We decided that we would return the next day to visit the Plaza de Mayo (Presidential Palace)…

The Teatro Colon (reputed to be among the finest in the world)…

The Recoleta park vendors and cemetery (where Eva Peron is interred)…

and other sites that time and inclination allow.

The highlight of the evening was yet before us. Back in the States I had made online reservations for dinner and a well regarded Tango performance at the Teatro Astor Piazzolla. $124 US had purchased tickets for both of us (not each!) that included transport from and back to our hotel.

It was an exceptional experience! The chauffeur and transport arrived on time and delivered us and about 6 other hotel guests to the Theater.

Diners could select from one item in each category of 3 starters, 6 mains, and three deserts. A “bottomless” glass of wine was included. I am not usually a red-meat person, but when in Argentina… The steak and accompaniments were excellent, as was the attentive service.

Our evening started at 7 p.m. and our return to the hotel was made shortly after midnight. Sandwiched in between was a 90 minute performance of energetic, athletic, sensual, and endearing dance vignettes that wowed us and the other 100+ patrons.

Each of the next three pictures have an embedded link. Tap on the picture to be taken to one of three short videos of our experience.

Thus far our decision to spend a few extra days in Buenos Aires prior to boarding the ship has served us well. Our second day aboard the boat is this coming Tuesday and includes a tour of the city prior to leaving for Montevideo Uruguay. I suspect that we will pass on the tour and just find a cozy cafe for an afternoon in one of Buenos Aires’ picturesque parks.

Peace Everyone. Pete

It should come as no surprise that I like to travel… a lot. I also hate getting ready to travel… a lot. For at least a week before departure I consciously and subconsciously stress about what to pack, what arrangements I need to make, and the myriad of minutia that is fostered by my compulsive nature. A few nights ago I awoke in a cold sweat thinking, “Visas, what about VISAS!!!” 3 a.m. I was up and at the computer verifying what I no-doubt verified months ago, all we need is our passports for the 4 countries we will be visiting. Next night, “DAMN, forgot to order currency!” Email to our bank and double damn, it’s Veterans Day and the bank is closed. The reality is, no big deal. International destination airports have almost as many currency exchanges as Starbucks coffee bars. Like Starbucks, you pay a premium for the airport location.

It was easier for us to pack for our 6 week UK trip earlier this year (and for that matter last year’s 13 week/16 country trip) than for this one. We didn’t have to worry about a wide ranging climate and in both cases a backpack worked well for each of us. Not so for this coming 4 weeks. Buenos Aires had temps in the low 90’s this week and Santiago Chile at the end of our trip is likewise on the warm side. However, the Falkland Islands and the southern reaches of the continent can experience temperatures into the 30’s with snow flurries. What’s more, dinner on the ship, while not a tuxedo affair, does warrant a nicer wardrobe than is my usual style. Christine and I had an array of clothes spread all over our guest room as we attempted to plan accordingly. We succeeded in packing into a carryon for each of us and one checked bag. For us, that’s a lot.

The next part of travel that I hate almost enough to dissuade me from the journey is the whole airport/departure/flight/arrival/airport sequence. This time we flew American Airlines. The originating flight was less than 2 hours from Kansas City to Dallas.

The main event was a grueling 10+ hours in the narrowest cabin seats that I have ever experienced. Earlier I had sprung for an “upgrade” (more legroom with the bulkhead in front of us), but we had hoped to snag a business class/1st class upgrade at the gate… no such luck, the flight was sold out and we were packed like sardines.

Sharing our 4 across center section was every flight attendant’s nightmare. He was a passenger so rude, offensive, and LOUD (even before we left the gate), that as we were taxiing for takeoff the flight purser wandered back and threaten to have the pilot return to the gate where other authorities could address his “concerns”. The passenger was sober and clearly had “issues”, but a lack of intellect was not among them. He wisely shut up and buried himself in his book the rest of the flight, “The Brothers Karamazov” by Fyodor Dostoevsky.

Since you are reading this you may infer that we survived the flight. We arrived on time at Ministro Pistarini International Airport, an ultra-modern facility located on the outskirts of Buenos Aires. I had previously arranged for transport to our hotel which is located in the central city. The 45 minute drive featured a 10 lane toll highway. At one point there were 40 tollbooths across the lanes to (unsuccessfully) minimize congestion. We experienced professional grade rush hour traffic at 10 a.m..

The driver got us to the hotel in one piece and the Recoleta Grand Hotel accommodated us with an early check-in and a top notch room at only $130.00 US a night.

It is a bit past noon. I had some success in grabbing enough sleep on our overnight flight but not so Christine. She is taking a catchup nap after which we will head out to reconnoiter the immediate area of our hotel. More Later.

It is much later. We had a wonderful afternoon aimlessly wandering the central city. Lunch was at a sidewalk French restaurant where Christine enjoyed a tortilla con jamon et queso (ham and cheese). I had a pizza. Go figure.

My camera was evident and on three separate occasions I was warned by locals to secure it against theft. While walked we observed a young teen attempt to snatch a purse, and a police incident that seemed to center around a petty theft.

We have often been asked by friends about the risk of crime in the places we have traveled. Vigilance is the first order of protection and not taking unnecessary risks is the second. Also, to put matters into a sad perspective: Kansas City has a population that is just under 500,000. Buenos Aires has nearly 3 million. In 2017 (the last year I could secure statistics on) Buenos Aires had 144 homicides. That same year Kansas City Missouri (not metro area) had 151.

Our walk took in some of the idyllic life of the city.

We encountered a monstrous 250 year old “rubber” tree, a statue of San Martin, Argentina’s 1815 version of George Washington, and some beautiful parklands. Our plan for tomorrow is to take a “hop on hop off” bus that covers most of the best known features and sites of the city.

This evening we adjourned to a very well regarded Argentinian steak restaurant. It was recommended by our hotel and Trip Advisor placed it as number 3 out of nearly 6,000 dining venues in the city.

We were not disappointed. Christine declared her filet to be the finest cut of meat that she has ever been served. We arrived just after opening time, and within 30 minutes the place was packed. In turn, the restaurant was “packing” its customers with the best of succulent animal protean. Vegetarians need not apply.

The servings were beyond generous and the price was remarkably easy on the wallet. Our meal consisting of a bottle of a fine red wine, two steak dinners, sides, salads, and coffee came in at a little over $50, tip included! Christine’s steak alone would have cost that back home.

The currency here is the Argentine Peso. They use a dollar sign as the symbol for the peso, but the exchange rate is about 60 pesos to one US dollar. It takes a bit of adjusting to see the ice cream vendor in the park hawking ice cream bars for “$30” (fifty cents US), or “$700” for our bottle of wine (about twelve dollars US).

It is 11:15 p.m. (8:15 p.m. in Kansas City) as I wrap this up. Sleep in a king size bed will be especially welcome, especially after the challenges of last night.

Peace Everyone. Pete

PS. I’m experimenting with using smaller format images for uploading with these posts. It saves on international data charges, loads much faster, and (I hope) does not noticeably impact on the quality of the image viewed on devices. Fingers are crossed. Pete.