Category: Life and Living

Missing! Campers, a Country, and a US Airbase.

Posted on by Pete Schloss

July 30, 2022.

Our original plan had been to spend only the nights of July 23rd and 24th at Dildo Run Provincial Park. We would then drive nearly 300 miles for a 2 night stay on the west coast at Blow Me Down Provincial Park, followed by some back-tracking and another long drive for a one night stay at Barachois Provincial Park. The plan deserved reexamination.

Up to this point, with the exception of Pippy Park in St. John’s, every stay had been 2 nights long. Cancelling Blow Me Down would allow us to add a third day to Dildo Run, eliminate one of two long drives that lay ahead, and add a day to Barachois Pond, from where we would have a 100 mile drive to the ferry on July 28th. That made enough sense, and so it is what we did.

As my prior posts detailed, the longer stay at Dildo Run was fortuitous, allowing us the explorations of Fogo Island and Twillingate.

Barachois is not particularly near anything noteworthy, but on-line pictures promised a scenic and relaxing 2 night stay.

We knew the park was large with 150 unserviced sites. Upon arrival we were surprised to see that most sites were occupied by large pull-behind trailers and equally large 5th wheel campers. These were typically over 25 feet long. Furthermore, it was mid-week when we would expect more vacancies. That was not a problem since we had a reservation.

Our assigned spot was beautiful.

We were lakeside with a 50 foot walk to the shore. There was a beach, a well maintained bathhouse with laundry, and limited wifi available in the park. After making camp we took a walk through the park.

It was a ghost town. Virtually no one was home at the campsites! Further examination revealed that many of the sites had stocked in large quantities of wood, had large on-site generators, tented storage sheds, and the site next to us even had a propane tank that was large enough to serve a home. This was a park largely dedicated to season-long campers occupying their sites mostly on weekends.

When evening arrived, so did a few of these “residents”. The park became illuminated by multi-colored “party lights”, and music played (too) loudly from a number of sites. The residents of the campsite behind us remained absent, but their solar powered party-lights came on automatically at dusk.

So it was with many of the sites with absentee residents. This was not our style of camping. Hopes for a real dark-sky experience were dampened, but since we faced lakeside I was able to take an after-midnight time exposure sky shot that turned out reasonably well.

Sunset also brought stunning illumination to imposing Mount Erin across the lake from our camp.

During our earlier walk I had noticed a trailhead and signboard that detailed a 5+ mile hike up the mountain. I added that to my mental check-list of things to do tomorrow.

Our evening rounded out with a tasty Dutch Oven Pot Pie, a few adult beverages, and a campfire. All was good, in spite of the fairyland of party lights that surrounded us on three sides.

The next morning we decided to do some pre-ferry grocery shopping before my afternoon hike. The large community of Stephenville was about 20 miles away with a couple of large grocery stores, and at least one coffee shop that had wifi superior to the anemic signal in the park. I didn’t figure there would be any photo opportunities so to my regret I didn’t bring my camera.

Driving through town we were struck by the array of huge warehouses. It struck me that they looked like converted airplane hangers. Furthermore, many of the cross-streets bore US placenames: Minnesota Drive, Carolina Avenue, Oregon Drive, Dakota Drive… It was time to consult with Mr. Google.

This town of only 6,600 residents has huge runways and an international airport! Why? Because from 1941 to 1966 this was the home of Ernest Harmon United States Air Force Base. The US airbase featured two runways, one nearly a mile long and the second nearly 2 miles long! This is how the airfields look today:

Until 1949 this was the independent country known as The Dominion of Newfoundland, established in 1907and consisting of both Newfoundland and Labrador.

It gave up its self-governing status in 1934 because of a crisis in public finances brought about during The Great Depression, allowing the United Kingdom to temporarily administer it through an appointed Commission of Government. This continued until Newfoundland and Labrador officially joined Canada after a hotly contested referendum that included options to remain a dominion of Great Britain, join with Canada, or join with the United States. The final election did not include a US option. Canada Confederation won by a slim 52% majority, Newfoundland and Labrador becoming Canada’s 10th Province in 1949.

The US Air Force Base was maintained until 1966, and was one of the United States’ largest airbases located outside of the US. It had a deepwater port, and serviced the largest transport aircraft in the US arsenal, fighters, and nuclear armed aircraft. This is how the airfield appeared in the the 1940’s and 50’s…

And some images of what is left today, courtesy of the internet:

We returned to camp and I “girded my loins” to tackle Mount Erin. A little over 5 miles and a steep climb of 1,150 feet, brought the reward of an amazing panorama that my lens does not do justice to.

The view took in Bay St. George, the Gulf of St. Lawrence, and the Long Range Mountains which are the northernmost extension of the Appalachian Mountains.

I returned to camp two and a half hours later beat and in need of a beer revival. The hike stood as a caution to me. This trip has not provided me with the opportunities to hike and exercise as is my custom. Furthermore, we eat really well when we camp, too well by at least one measure.

On September 29th I leave Christine and fly out of Kansas City bound for Lisbon, Portugal. From there I will proceed to Porto Portugal and hike to Santiago de Compostela, Spain, continuing on to Muxia and Finisterra on the Atlantic coast, finally returning to Santiago. From there by transport as yet undecided I will meet Christine in Barcelona, Spain not later than November 6th. The portion of the journey I will pursue by foot will cover about 300 miles (500km).

In the past training for such and undertaking seemed prudent but not necessary. At 70 years old it has become both prudent AND necessary.

Peace Everyone. Pete

PS. We boarded the ferry late the night of July 28th, landing in Nova Scotia 7 hours later. We left behind wonderful sights, experiences, and fast friendships. We hold all of these as precious memories to be treasured.

We also left behind the Province’s odd slang, unique cuisine, the thick Irish/Scottish accents, and weird half-hour time zone. It took some time to adjust to the hourly news feeds from NPR, CBC, and BBC broadcasting on the half-hour. The rest was easy.

Kissing a Codfish.

Posted on by Pete Schloss

July 28, 2022.

On the morning of July 25th we set out from our camp at Dildo Run Provincial Park for the fishing community of Twillingate. Located about 15 miles from camp and on the Twillingate Islands of Notre Dame Bay, this town of 2,100 people is nicknamed “The Iceberg Capital of the World”.

Unfortunately, we arrived too late in the season to see any near-shore icebergs. We did take in a pleasant drive to the highway’s end where a brief hike rewarded us with wonderful views of the harbor and rugged coastline.

For over 200 years Twillingate was an important trade and service center for the Labrador and north shore fisheries. Once a thriving fishing port, Twillingate has had to turn its eyes to other commerce because of the collapse of fishing stock due to overfishing and government imposed fishing moratorium of 1992. The moratorium has slowly brought back fish numbers and restored some commercial fishing, but remains unpopular with many local fishermen.

Twillingate has found success in fostering local tourism and is favored as an “artists colony”.

For 40 years it has played host to the annual “Fish, Fun, & Folk Festival”, drawing thousands of visitors. Sadly we just missed this as the week long event began a few days following our visit.

As we continued to explore Twillingate, Christine noticed a small winery up ahead and suggested a visit.

We pulled into the parking lot of the Auk-Island Winery expecting to spend a few minutes there out from the overcast drizzle that had developed.

Though small, Auk-Island features a wide array of wines and has hosted visitors from around the world. We inquired about tastings.

For CA $20 the two of us were presented with pourings from 20 of the winery’s 22 offerings.

With the assistance of of Brandy, and her great sense of humor, we set about tasting and rating… tasting and rating… and tasting…

I think that there is method to this as the wines loosen both inhibitions and one’s wallet.

We found many of the wines wonderful to our palate. Some wine “connoisseurs” might not be impressed with the non-grape based varieties, but we especially enjoyed the offerings created from dandelion and rhubarb, not to mention more pedestrian fruits like raspberries and strawberries.

Grapes are not native to Newfoundland or Labrador. When Leif Erickson mentioned “Vinland”, he was identifying New Brunswick, or perhaps coastal Maine, not Newfoundland where his camp, now known as L’ Anse aux Meadows, is located. It is thus most appropriate that Aux-Island focuses on creating excellent non-grape wines.

Wine tasting concluded, Christine lined up a case worth of bottles at the cash register.

As Donna was running the tab she turned to me and asked if I’d kissed a Cod yet. With some regret I replied that I missed my chance in St. John’s. “Well, I can get you ‘screeched-in’ here if you want. All I’ve got to do is get Chris!”

I gave my assent and soon Donna returned, wearing a Sou’wester hat and foul weather coat, “Chris” lovingly cradled in her arms.

Other customers became interested in this bit of theater and soon a number of others lined up to be “screeched”.

“Chris” is a once alive, now frozen, Codfish. As Donna advised, I could consider “Chris” male or female, depending on my preference. Chris is female.

I thought that all I had to do was to kiss the Cod in order to be “screeched-in”. How wrong I was.

In disabusing me of the notion Donna explained that I first had to demonstrate language proficiency with a number of common Newfoundlander phrases. Then I would kiss the Cod, drink a toast of screech in one fell swallow, and finally take the Oath that would earn me the Certificate and status as an Honorary Newfoundlander. Sounded easy enough.

First, as a “come from away” (mainlander or foreigner) I had to ask properly to be screeched in by responding, “Yes b’y!” Then the impossible began.

Donna: “Repeat after me….” followed by a series of incomprehensible phrases that I and the others haplessly tried to imitate. The attempts brought roars of laughter from Donna, Brandy, and all others present as witnesses.

Next came kissing the Cod, to which Donna added that technique and passion would be rated by applause. “Tongue or no tongue?” I asked. This question earned an applause, as did my full-on embrace of the fish.

Finally there was the shot of the “adult beverage”, followed by the Oath and required answer to the question, “Is you a Screecher?”

“Deed I is, me ol’ cock, and long may your big jib draw!” Was the proper response, but uttered quickly as one long word and sounding like you had just left the dentist’s chair with mouth and tongue still numb from novocaine injections.

Our “brief” impulse visit to the Auk-Island Winery expanded to almost 2 hours and has become one of our fondest memories of our time in the Province.

It was not quite 5 p.m. and our stomachs had begun to cry, “Feed me”. We didn’t find anything in town that excited our tastebuds, but I recalled some crude signs on the way to Twillingate that indicated a seafood restaurant and “Lobster Pool”. We were off to pick up that trail.

10 minutes down the road and there was the sign. We turned and a few miles more brought us to “Sansome’s Lobster Pool, Dockside Dining, Kitchen, and Restrooms.”

We were not alone. Sansome’s must thrive on word of mouth, and those mouths must really have been talking. This was a real hidden gem!

Here is the “Lobster Pool” and soon to be victims…

Here the lobsters are being cooked…

And here we are at table with Floridians Suzanne and Brad, along with francophones Simone and Oliver from Quebec.

Not more than an hour earlier we had been strangers. However, the tiny restaurant had developed an imposing waiting list. Christine and I were next in line. Staff eyed the table that had just opened, a table for 6.

Christine reached out to the two couples and asked if they wished to join us. The replies and relief from each of them and the restaurant staff were immediate. Thus began one of the finest and most memorable dining experiences of this trip.

It takes just a moment and a kind word to turn a stranger into a friend.

Peace Everyone. Pete

Fogo Island

Posted on by Pete Schloss

July 26, 2022.

We camped three nights, July 23 and departing the 26th, in Dildo Run Provincial Park. Yes, that is the name of the park, God’s honest truth.

Most of our stays in Newfoundland have been 2 nights in duration. This has allowed us the opportunity to sample much of this huge island (16th largest in the world), but has not allowed me to explore or hike in the manner that is my habit. We have tried to strike a balance. It has been like a smorgasbord, only of sights rather than food.

The three nights at Dildo Run have given us two full days to take in this archipelago and relax before we engage the long slog back to our ferry connection from Port aux Basques to Nova Scotia. These days included enough experiences to justify at least 2 posts. The natural division is our day on Fogo Island and then our day at Twillingate.

Fogo Island is (don’t be shocked) an island, which means catching one of the intra-province ferries. Information that we had on hand indicated an 8:30 a.m. departure. Being an early riser I had us on the road with more than enough time for the 40 minute drive to the dock and at least a half hour to spare. However, when we arrived at the dock we were the only car at the check-in booth… because everyone else had already boarded! Our timetable was out of date and our 8 a.m. arrival meant that we were the last vehicle loaded for the 8 a.m. sailing. We made it onboard by pure dumb luck.

After a stop at the island’s visitor information office, and a download of the very well done Fogo Island Tour App (necessary because there is only spotty cell coverage here) we were ready to tour.

If you want a more in-depth view of what Fogo Island has to offer, download the Discover Fogo Island App, available in your App Store.

The remnant of an ancient volcano cone looms over the fishing village of Fogo.

A well laid path that at various places included stairs, boardwalks, and chain railings, climbs to the top of “Brimstone Head”, which the Flat Earth Society has designated as one of the 4 Corners of the World.

The views atop the sheer cliffs to the waters and town below were exceptional.

I was especially proud of Christine for climbing to the top, resisting her aversions to heights and precipices.

Looking out and down we were treated to an hour long viewing of whales doing what whales do. This included a mother and her very large calf surfacing and blowing in tandem.

After descending back to town we headed up another hill, this time by car to the place where Guglielmo Marconi installed one of his first operational wireless telegraph stations. This one was purposed to connect Newfoundland to the mainland. For a few years he was prevented from transmitting across the Atlantic from Newfoundland because of an exclusive contract the government had previously entered into in favor of the two undersea trans-Atlantic cable operators. When word was published that Marconi had bridged the Atlantic by wireless in 1901, their stock plummeted. One company tried to deal with the blow of Marconi’s success taking the “fake news” approach. The other company threatened suit. The specter of litigation won out.

Unfortunately, the Marconi Interpretation Center was closed for lunch so I satisfied myself by taking in a view of the town of Fogo such as Marconi would have enjoyed.

There are many interpretive sites on the island. They provide insight into life there in the 19th and early 20th Centuries. These tourist focused features are creatures of necessity. The economy collapsed in the 1990’s due to overfishing. The government imposed the infamous “Cod Fishing Moratorium” and subsequently regulated fishing in an effort to restore and preserve the industry. Fishing has never since achieved the status it once held in the 19th and early 20th Centuries. Tourism now seeks to fill the vacuum.

Given the limits of time, we chose to visit two dwellings representative of opposite ends of the economic spectrum.

The first was Bleak House. Our tour was conducted by Rebecca, a young and enthusiastic local resident.

Built in 1826, this is one of the oldest remaining merchant homes in the province. Compared to the homes common to a fishing family it was deemed a mansion. By mainland standards it would have been quite average.

The original merchant owner was the status conscious Slade Family. They had servants who provided typical household services and child care for the family. A somewhat onerous task was the daily filling a water reservoir in the attic and the emptying the toilet located on the second floor. The bathroom thus mimicked indoor plumbing. which no home on the island actually had.

In contrast was the Harald Dwyer home. It was representative of the scores of similarly constructed dwellings built in the 19th and early 20th Centuries by families making their living through fishing.

Only the exterior walls were load bearing. The interior walls were made of single layer tongue and groove boards. This made the walls easy to reconfigure and also maximized interior space, which was at a premium.

Four bedrooms were up steep stairs on a second floor. The rooms were barely large enough for a bed and small dresser. A person six feet tall would have to be mindful of their head throughout the home. Remarkably, families with a dozen or more children made their homes in these structures.

Behind the shoreside homes were rough-made docks and fish houses. Here the tools of the trade including boats, nets, a splitting table, and salt, were stored. The day’s catch was cleaned on the splitting table and the fish were dried and salt preserved in the shed. The floor consisted of thin and loosely laid boards. The gaps between the boards allowed air to naturally channel upward and facilitate the preservation process.

Our stay on the island also included a light and relaxing lunch. We had arrived onshore at 8:45 a.m. and there were only 4 return ferries. The last of these was scheduled for 7:30 p.m.. We intended to catch the 4:30 p.m. sailing. This time we arrived dockside early based upon accurate information.

Tomorrow, Twillingate.

Peace Everyone. Pete

Dildo

Posted on by Pete Schloss

July 25, 2022.

We left St. John’s the morning of July 23rd. Ahead of us was a drive of 260 miles to our next destination. It makes for a long day since these are usually non-divided 2 lane highways. There are passing lanes at regular intervals, but focused attention is demanded of the driver at all times.

What, let alone the name of a town, could possibly justify adding another 20 miles to our route? Nothing unless the name of that town is Dildo (pop. 800), whose motto is, “Our Name Will Never Change!”

We first learned that there was a town in Newfoundland and Labrador named Dildo from Nadine, a native of the Province who we met in 2019 aboard a Viking Cruise Ship in South America.

The area now occupied by Dildo has been inhabited for over 4,000 years. The name of the community dates to at least 1711, although the origin of the town’s name, as well as namesake, have been lost to time.

Understandabley, the name has brought the community a bit of notoriety. In the 20th Century there were a number of efforts to change the name, all of which failed.

In 2019 American night talk show host, Jimmy Kimmel, featured a number of his show’s segments on Dildo, even having a staff member spend a week living in the community. Kimmel was named honorary mayor, and staff person, Guillermo Rodriguez, an honorary citizen.

Kimmel declared Hollywood the sister city to Dildo, and in that honor he gave Dildo a Hollywood styled sign. The Dildo sign stands erect on a hillside overlooking the harbor.

We visited the wharf which protects fishing and pleasure vessels by resisting deep penetration from the thrust and throbbing pulse of probing waves and stiff blowing winds.

We also ate breakfast here before venturing on to “Nan and Pop’s Dildo Souvenir Shop”, where we bought a few memories to take home.

By the way, our next campground is Dildo Run Provincial Park.

Peace Everyone. Pete

St. John’s, Newfoundland and Labrador

Posted on by Pete Schloss

July, 24, 2022.

We have reached the easternmost extent of mainland North America, and perhaps the limits of our travel tolerance. The course of our journey has so far covered nearly 6,000 miles and consumed over 400 gallons of gas at a cost of nearly US $2,500. It’s been worth it.

St. John’s (pop. 110,000) is the capital of and largest city in the Province. From here it is virtually the same distance to Paris (2,481 miles) as it is to Chicago (2,479 miles). Kansas City is nearly 3,000 miles away “as the crow flies”.

St. John’s is a tourist destination, a major seaport, and a focal point for many historic events. It played a role in the Seven Years’ War (the French and Indian War), the American Revolution, the War of 1812, and each of the World Wars. It is also known as the location where Guglielmo Marconi first demonstrated the ability of his wireless communications technology to bridge the Atlantic Ocean.

In 1494 John Cabot, a Venetian in the service of England, became the first European to sail into its harbor. It became a European fishing camp in the early 1500’s, and a permanent settlement around 1630.

It is a cruise ship destination, but thankfully there were none in port during our visit. This may explain the relative quiet of the Water Street pedestrian zone and shops near the harbor.

Despite the excited urging of the delightful Monet at the Visitors Information Center, a not-quite-20 year old new in her first major job, we did not visit any of the many museums or centers of culture and government. No doubt they are worthy of the time, that we unfortunately did not have. We did take in enough to render rewarding our three days in St. John’s.

Pippy Park is the municipality’s main park and green space. The park includes a huge forested campground with fully serviced campsites. We camped there three nights, departing the morning of July 23rd. Campfires are not allowed, and the sounds of the city intrude upon the experience, but in all other respects it was pleasant. Since our focus was on seeing what the metropolitan area had to offer we actually spent little time in camp. Driving into the heart of the downtown took less than 10 minutes.

What we saw and experienced began with the 17th Century Port Wine Vaults of the Newman Company. Katherine explained the history of these vaults within which Portuguese Port from the Newman Company of Porto aged in large barrels before returning to Portugal for sale. It was believed that the constant movement occasioned in a cross-Atlantic ship journey together with St. John’s climate, rendered exceptional the Port wines aged here. Our host was excited to learn that we had walked the Camino, which she hopes to do within the next two years.

We took in Water Street which is often closed to traffic, George Street which features a crush of nightclubs and bars, and the nearby neighborhoods with their colorful row houses.

Dominating the cityscape is Signal Hill. During the colonial period it was the site of years of armed conflict between France and England. Whoever holds Signal Hill, holds the harbor and St. John’s.

This National Historic Site can be reached by car, or by a steep hike. I chose the hike from a lower parking lot, and in the process passed some re-enactors.

It was here that Marconi first demonstrated his wireless cross-ocean communications technology which changed the world.

The views from Signal Hill were amazing, as was the stiff gusting wind.

In the distance one could just make out a lighthouse on a jut of land. This was the Cape Spear Light and National Historic site.

Not more than 2 miles by line-of-sight, it was a winding 30 minute drive to get there. We had been cautioned to beware of moose as there are many in the area. The blind curves of the road make for frequent collisions between the huge animals (up to 1,200 pounds) and inattentive drivers.

Moose are not native to Newfoundland, but a few were imported onto the island from Labrador in 1878 and their numbers have since exploded to an estimated 120,000. We have yet to see a moose on this trip.

Cape Spear features Newfoundland’s oldest surviving lighthouse which dates to 1836.

The light was built in combination with the light keeper’s cottage, which has been wonderfully restored.

The interior has a few windows, but there appear to be many more on the exterior. In a nod to form over function the builders obsessively embraced symmetry by incorporating many “false windows” into the exterior.

Cape Spear was also a Second World War army base. Here two huge artillery pieces protected the approaches to St. John’s Harbor, which was the main port for naval ships that protected convoys of materials and troops to Europe from Nazi U-Boat “wolfpacks”.

One of these German submarines made it to the mouth of the harbor, launching 2 torpedoes which fortunately exploded harmlessly on the cliffs surrounding the harbor entrance.

Cape Spear is now served by a more modern lighthouse.

The Cape is also the easternmost point of land in mainland North America.

At the moment that this picture was taken I was the continental North America’s easternmost human.

Arguably, this is a distinction I once held on the westernmost point of Europe.

Our time in St. John’s also included two visits to quant Quidi Vidi Village.

From the 1600’s this was a seasonal fishing port. Each spring English fishermen would arrive and inhabit small “fishing rooms”, departing with their salt-preserved catch in the fall.

A number of these little cottages remain.

Our first visit was for dinner (expensive!) in an 1820’s cottage, and the second for a more relaxing (and less expensive) lunch paired with excellent beer at the Quidi Vidi Brewery.

We departed St. John’s the morning of July 23rd, concluding our 3 night stay in the city. More important to us, we are now heading west. That does not signal the end of interesting sites and experiences, one worthy of attention grabbing souvenirs appears in my next post.

Peace Everyone. Pete