Category: Travel

Part 52: Return to Barcelona

Posted on by Pete Schloss

 

May 28-31, 2013. Barcelona.

When did our Camino begin? Was it in 2011 as we exited a movie theater, inspired by the characters in “The Way”? Perhaps the beginning evolved during our discussions over the following year. More concrete: Maybe it was when we began buying our packs, hiking boots, and of course our “sporks”.

When we made airline reservations, was that the start? Or was it at Mass in Kansas City on April 5, 2013 when Father Bill and the congregation of St. Francis Xavier Church bid us farewell and the priest entered the first “sello” in our pilgrim credencials.

Any of these may have been the start of the emotional Camino. I believe that the physical Camino began when we landed in Barcelona, Spain on April 8, 2013.

When did our Camino end? Emotionally, as these hundreds of pages attest, it hasn’t. It could be said that our physical Camino ended with our arrival in Santiago on May 22nd.  However, part of the experience of our Camino was embracing the broader magic of Spain.  That alchemy continued with our return to Barcelona.

May 28th.

 A pre-dawn taxi transported us to Santiago’s international airport. We were checked in and at the gate by 7 a.m..

The two-hour flight made a mockery of the 6 weeks that it took us to transit that distance by foot. Once on the ground we returned to Ana’s hospitality and the comforts of her centrally located Guesthouse. Kris Ashton also secured a room at Ana’s for the day preceding her return to the States.

Our belongings stowed in our rooms, the three of us proceeded the few blocks on foot to the Sagrada Familia. We had learned from our experience in April that reservations to tour the Basilica were prudent and depending upon the day, necessary. It was a Tuesday, yet the park in front of the church was active with tourists, vendors, and entertainers.

A quick walk around the Sagrada Familia disclosed progress in the construction accomplished over the 6 weeks since we first gazed upon its exterior.

The organic stonework of the Nativity Façade on one side of the Basilica and the linear sculptures on Passion Façade still amazed us with their stark contrast.

The first view of the interior was breathtaking.

These images only hint at majesty of the colorful stone columns that transform into an overhead canopy. It is like an otherworldly forest, everything drawing the eye up in wonder.

We had purchased tickets to climb and tour one of the towers. While somewhat physically challenging, Christine also had to suppress her discomfort with heights in order to enjoy the experience.

It was obvious that we were touring an active construction site.

Beneath the Church were the studios of the architects who work with computers and models to execute the transition from inspiration into reality.

There was also homage paid to the genius of Antoni Gaudi. In the late 19th and early 20th Centuries Gaudi did not have the benefit of computers to aid him in creating designs that were founded on his favored elements of circles, ovoids, and parabolas. Instead, he tied strings, weighted with small bags of sand, to give vision to his thoughts. Gravity created the non-linear flows which were reflected in a large mirror underneath the “string-cathedral”. It was from this that Gaudi was able to test and draft his concepts.

I could write an entire post (or two) about the Sagrada Familia. In fact, I did during our 2018 visit to Barcelona which was part of our walk on the Portuguese Camino. Rather than recount the narratives and those many images, here are links to those posts and pictures from 2018:

The Sagrada Familia Basilica | Peter M. Schloss, J.D. (mediationkc.com)
The Sagrada Familia. A Supplement. | Peter M. Schloss, J.D. (mediationkc.com)

That evening we joined Brent, his wife Marilynn, and some of their Barcelona friends for dinner. It was a wonderful sharing with a true “Camino brother”. Sadly, Marilynn passed away on New Year’s Eve 2019. May she rest in peace. Before her passing they had returned to the States from the home they made in Barcelona. Brent now lives in “God’s Country”, otherwise known as Idaho.

May 29th.

Christine and I resumed our embrace of Barcelona with a fond reunion.

In the 1990’s we had been volunteer representatives for AFS, the foreign exchange student organization. One of the young adults who we had the honor of knowing was Neus Santacana from Barcelona. Over the years we kept in touch with Neus. She joined us for the day and evening as we toured “her city”.

May 30th.

When we flew back into Barcelona from Santiago we saw mountains near the city that seemed to rise from the surrounding land like shark’s teeth. From the tiny windows of our plane I could also make out buildings that appeared to be built into the cliffs. Upon inquiry we learned that this was the Montserrat (“serrated mountain”) Range, rising over 4,000 feet above sea level.

The buildings were the Santa Maria de Montserrat Benedictine Abbey.

An easily navigated train ride took us 30 miles to the cable car station.

We boarded the 83-year-old conveyance for the dizzying ascent of nearly 4,000 feet to the Monastery.

Founded in the 11th Century, and rebuilt in the 19th and 20th Centuries, the Monastery is world renowned. It is home to over 70 monks, and can now be reached by road, train, or cable car.

There is also a cog railway that took us farther up the mountain to the remains of the ancient Chapel of Sant Joan and ruins of hermitages, some believed to have been inhabited by Sant Joan (John) and Sant Onofre.

The precarious stairs and passages were once the only access to these remote habitations.

Hermits are believed to have lived in these mountains as early as the 6th Century. Chapels were known to have been established by the 9th Century, and more formal monastic communities not long after. Monks were held to extremely strict vows beyond those of poverty, obedience, and chastity. Among those requirements were total detachment from the outside world, complete abstinence from meat, arduous regimens of fasting, self-flagellation, and denial of virtually all worldly comforts.

In addition to the grounds, panoramic views, and history, highlights of a visit included witnessing a performance by the Escolania de Montserrat boys’ liturgical choir and seeing the 12th Century La Moreneta sculpture also known as the Virgin of Montserrat.

The choir is a 700-year-old institution consisting of boys who are educated and boarded at the Monastery. These 50+ boys are between the ages of nine and fourteen and perform each Monday thru Saturday at 1 p.m.. On Sundays and Holidays they perform at noon and again at 6:45 p.m..

By some accounts, the 38-inch Virgin of Montserrat dates to early Christianity. Alleged to have been carved in Jerusalem, legend holds that it was discovered in one of the nearby mountain caves where it had been hidden from marauding Saracens.

More likely it dates to the 12th Century. For hundreds of years the statue has been venerated by commoners, royalty, popes and saints. On March 25, 1522, St. Ignatius Loyola laid down his weapons and armor before the statue, thus beginning a period of asceticism before later founding the Society of Jesus (The Jesuits).

We returned by train to Barcelona for dinner, packing, and a night spent in sleepless contemplation of tomorrow’s departure for home.

May 31st.

Our packs were secured in duffle bags for the flight home.

Rare for us, we were traveling first class. This was largely due to an accumulation of frequent flyer miles. The perks included access to the private lounge area, stocked with alcohol and snacks at no additional charge.

Thankfully, we were isolated from the airport crowd until it neared time to board our plane.

The real advantages of first-class seating came in the form of large comfortable seats that fully reclined into sleeping position, and of course liberal servings of adult beverages.

We resisted casting aside our pilgrim identities. Onboard the plane we each continued to wear our shells, and I my beret.

Heading into the clouds with the last views of Barcelona below us, I was well into my second glass of white. I gazed out the window and reflexively pulled out my tiny iPod-Touch. One finger-stroke at a time I began to type, “Tir na nÓg”, “The Land of Eternal Youth”…
Peace Everyone, and Buen Camino. Pete
Next: Epilogue, The Final Chapter

Part 51: Return to Santiago

Posted on by Pete Schloss

 

May 24-27, 2013. Muxia, Finisterre and Return to Santiago.

I had been told, “There will come a moment when you realize you are no longer a pilgrim on the Camino.” That moment came on the morning of May 24th when we boarded a bus bound for Muxia. On May 25th we continued on to Finisterre by Taxi. On May 26th we returned to Santiago.

“…you are no longer a pilgrim…” That is not entirely correct. Within each of us there had been change. We would return to the United States retaining the experience of Pilgrimage, and with that experience came a different view of ourselves and the world around us. Once begun, that pilgrimage is lifelong.

May 26th, Return to Santiago.

We were up early, but not as early as these two who were already surveying the neighborhood for an early meal.

Another well-appointed bus provided our return to Santiago. The tinted windows gave a blue-green cast to the view, saving the eyes but converting the vivid seaside colors to a single hue.

Back in Santiago we visited the Cathedral Museum.

The Museum contains an extensive collection of sculpture, paintings, tapestries, and ecclesiastical robes. My images only hint at the wonders.

Its library includes incredibly rare documents, including the 12th Century Codex Calixtinus, the first “guide” to the Camino.

Time for a more comprehensive tour of the Cathedral and grounds was available to us.

We had passed the 16th Century interior Porta Santa or do Perdon (Holy Door or Door of Forgiveness) upon our arrival in the City, but a longer look was in order. The passageway is only open during Jubilee Years, years in which the feast day of St. James (July 25th) falls on a Sunday.

In the cloister were three bells. Cast in the early 1700’s, these Cathedral bells cracked from use and were replaced by copies cast in the 20th Century.

 The oldest existing parts of the Cathedral date to the 11th Century.

A literal and figurative “highlight’ of the day was a visit to the roof of the Cathedral.

Christine, who is not fond of heights, drew on reserves of courage to negotiate the unnatural surface. Her concern of a tumble to the edge and below were not entirely unfounded.

The views of the Cathedral’s towers, and even statuary from behind were very special, as were the views of the old city from above.

We had a clear view of Hospederia San Martin Pinario, where we were again staying.

From the roof we could peer into small windows and gaze upon the interior of the Cathedral from above. Here is a rare view of the statuary above the main altar.

We also gained access to the passages within the Cathedral, near the top of its barrel-vaulted ceiling.

This was a working space, not prepared for typical tourist eyes. Pieces of granite, fallen from the interior and exterior were carefully arranged on shelves. Perhaps they awaited some future restoration.

Huge figures were stored here as well, Gigantes y Cabezudos (Processional “Giants and Big Heads”). Giant wood and paper mâché figures, when mounted by a harness on the shoulders of a person, dance and gyrate in a festival or parade.

The tradition, found in Spain, Portugal, France, and Belgium, dates to at least the 13th Century. In Santiago these figures are featured during parades celebrating the feast day of St. James.

May 27th

Our wanderings continued on May 27th and took in the prison-like Monasterio de Benedictinas San Pelayo de Antealtares. This imposing structure is located across from the Cathedral at the Praza Quintana.

Founded in the 11th Century as a Benedictine monastery, it became a cloister for nuns in 1499. The current structure dates mostly to the 16th and 17th Centuries. The exterior barred windows speak to the seriousness of “cloister” in ages gone by.

Within the building’s chapel were more reminders of the lengths to which separation of the sisters from worldly temptations was maintained.

We were told that this huge building, once teeming with religious, now has fewer than 50 in residence. Is also houses a small museum of sacred objects.

Tourist fatigue had set in for me. There were only a few pictures to preserve the day, including this one of Peregrinos celebrating their arrival.

Santiago had become a vacant, almost sad place for us. Gone were the familiar faces from 6 weeks walking the Camino. We knew inside that it was time to go home.

After the Cathedral had closed to visitors, we joined a group of 11 other pilgrims and a staff priest from the Cathedral for a private 9 p.m. prayer service in one of the side chapels. The Cathedral, dark and tomblike, resonated with echoes of our footsteps, there being no other masking sounds. There are no pictures for me to share of our small gathering. The members of our small group hailed from many countries. The priest asked for a volunteer to read a few short passages from the Bible. I offered and was handed the volume and proceeded to speak, pausing for the translations some required. It was a poignant “bookend” to my reading 6 weeks (and a lifetime) earlier at Mass in Roncesvalles.

After the reading we paused for a silent reflection. The priest then asked each of us, “What has the Camino Pilgrimage meant to you?” The few words that I shared that night with the priest, my wife, and 11 other Peregrinos have grown. Hiking across Spain! What started as an event on a “bucket list” turned into 51 “chapters”, 1,200 images, a telling that has taken more than 5 months, and the experience of a lifetime!
Peace Everyone, and Buen Camino. Pete
PS. Next: Return to Barcelona and Home.

 

Part 50: From Pilgrim to Tourist, Finisterre

Posted on by Pete Schloss

           

May 24-27, 2013. Muxia, Finisterre, and return to Santago.

I had been told, “There will come a moment when you realize you are no longer a pilgrim on the Camino.” That moment came on the morning of May 24th when we boarded a bus bound for Muxia. On May 25th we continued on to Finisterre by Taxi.

“…you are no longer a pilgrim…” That is not entirely correct. Within each of us there had been change. We would return to the United States retaining the experience of Pilgrimage, and with that experience came a different view of ourselves and the world around us. Once begun, that pilgrimage is lifelong.

May 25th, Finisterre.

 Finisterre (pop. 4,700) is located 90km west of Santiago on that portion of the Atlantic Coast known infamously as the “Costa da Morte” (Coast of Death) due to the many shipwrecks that have occurred over the centuries on its rocky shores.

Like Muxia, Finisterre is a seaside fishing village. Although its population is slightly less than Muxia’s, Finisterre presents more of a commercial and tourist vibe.

Fishing remains prominent in the economy, with boats that are designed for work and not pleasure seen throughout its protected harbor waters.

The history of this peninsula’s roots is ancient and runs deep. At the top of Monte Facho (elev. 781), site of the ruins of San Guillermo’s 11th Century hermitage, and just above the famous Cape Finisterre Light House, are places of pre-Christian Celtic worship. (The following two images are from the Finisterre tourist website)

Massive stones are believed to have been altars used in various rites, including fertility and sun worship. One such stone was mentioned in 1580 by the Polish adventurer, Erich Lassota of Steblovo. “These stones… that could not be dragged by several yokes of oxen, can be easily moved (rocked from side to side) with one finger, and I did this myself.” (These two images are from Google Earth)

It was long believed that Finisterre (“end of the Earth”) was the westernmost point of Europe. In actuality, a peninsula in the Municipality of Muxia is farther west, and Cabo da Roca, located in Portugal, is continental Europe’s most western point, nearly 11 miles beyond Finisterre.

The 1853 Finisterre Lighthouse stands 56 feet tall, already elevated hundreds of feet on clifftops above the sea. It casts a beam of light that can be seen by vessels over 25 miles offshore.

It is also here, just beyond a granite cross and the Pilgrim’s Monument, that many consider the historic Camino de Santiago truly completed.

In town we secured lodging for the night at the 100-year-old, two-star Hostal Mariquito. Our room, one of 16, was clean, comfortable, and a bargain at less than 50€. Late that evening we joined other guests in the bar for drinks, sharing their enthusiasm over a televised soccer match. The hotel underwent extensive renovations in 2020.

Near the town boat docks stands a monument dedicated to those who trace their roots to Galicia, “Our Galician love, scattered around the World”.

While strolling along the piers we encountered a familiar face from the Camino. After a brief visit he invited us to join him and friends for a special seafood dinner at a small neighborhood restaurant.

Seated, the wine began to flow.

Fishermen, still dressed in their work slicks, walked in carrying buckets of fish and shellfish. These they handed to women at a counter who commenced to expertly gut and clean the catch, some fish still showing movement! The spectacle took place mere feet from our table.

Before long a beautifully presented feast of the sea’s bounty was placed before us at table center.

Manners quickly became irrelevant to this meal. We all dug in and devoured, much as locals have done for centuries. Fantastic!

Most of us were unfamiliar with one species in the pile. A knowledgeable German pilgrim proceeded to provide lessons on the proper way to eat a barnacle. They had an armor-like shell. One had to carefully break them open to avoid a high-pressure squirt of saltwater in the eye. The effort was rewarded with a morsel of tasty, crab-like, meat.

As the sun fell, we were once again grateful for a day graced with friendships and good fortune.

Tomorrow we “tourists” return to Santiago de Compostela.
Peace Everyone, and Buen Camino. Pete

 

Part 49: From Pilgrim to Tourist, Muxia

Posted on by Pete Schloss

 

May 24-27, 2013. Muxia, Finisterre, and return to Santiago.

I had been warned. I don’t remember when, I don’t remember by whom, but I had been warned. “There will come a moment when you realize you are no longer a pilgrim on the Camino.” That moment came on the morning of May 24th. Had we the time and inclination to continue our journey to Muxia and Finisterre on foot, we would have remained Peregrinos. Had we retained an intention to walk further Camino miles, we would have remained Peregrinos. We had neither the time nor the inclination for either. On the morning of May 24th we boarded a bus bound for Muxia. We were no longer “pilgrims”.

That is not entirely correct. Within each of us there had been change. We would return to the United States retaining the experience of Pilgrimage, and with that experience came a different view of ourselves and the world around us. Once begun, that pilgrimage is lifelong.

May 24th, Muxia.

 Muxia (pop. 5,200) is located 70km west of Santiago on the Atlantic Coast. For less than 10€ each we enjoyed a pleasant one-hour bus ride through the scenic countryside. For Peregrinos it would have taken 3-4 days. However, we were now tourists.

Part of the “Costa da Morte” (Coast of Death), this area was infamous for the many shipwrecks occasioned on its rocky shores.

Muxia is a quiet seaside village that in modern times still clings to its fishing roots.

From town we ascended the 230 foot high Monte do Corpino that provided a panoramic view of the village and coast. 

Legend holds that it was here, near the site of the 17th Century Santuario (“Church”) da Virxe da Barca, originally the place of a pre-Christian Celtic shrine, that St. James grew despondent over his failed attempts to convert the local inhabitants to Christianity. It is said that the Virgin Mary appeared to him and offered encouragement for him to continue.

The church was closed, however an open window in the door provided me with the opportunity for these pictures. On December 25, 2013 the church interior was destroyed by fire started from a lightning strike.

This internet image reveals the extent of damage. The church was restored in 2015.

The 35 foot tall, 400 ton sculpture known as A Ferida (“The Wound”) was erected in memory of the disastrous 2002 Prestige Tanker oil spill which devastated the coasts of Spain and Portugal. The near derelict vessel sank offshore during a storm, releasing over 17 million gallons of heavy crude, an amount greater than was discharged in the Exxon Valdez catastrophe. A Ferida represents the environmental injury suffered from that tragedy.

Here also is one of the rare “Pedras de abalar” (oscillating stones) once used to determine the guilt or innocence of the criminally accused. Over time, the bases of these huge rocks have been naturally eroded, leaving a balance point beneath them. The crash of a wave, or even a strong wind may cause them to rock from one side to the other.

We stayed in the 8 room A de Lolo Hotel, which was clean, pleasant, and featured an excellent restaurant.

Good fortune provided us with late afternoon entertainment in the form of a colorful display of traditional music and dance.

While Finisterre is historically considered the “End of the Earth”, it is Cabo Tourinan in the Municipality of Muxia that extends farther west into the Atlantic. As the sun set we considered that only water separated us from home in North America.

Tomorrow we “tourists” would proceed to Finisterre.
Peace Everyone, and Buen Camino. Pete

Part 48: Santiago Day 2

Posted on by Pete Schloss

 

May 23, 2013. Santiago, the Second Day.

We slept well, and later than usual for the Camino. Showered, dressed, and no arranging packs for the next destination. Were we still pilgrims? That question had yet to enter my thoughts. Breakfast at Hospederia San Martin was a cafeteria affair shared with those lodged on the lower and less “Spartan” floors.

The options were plentiful and well prepared.

Much like our second days in Burgos and Leon, this would be a day to take in the environs of the old city. However, highest on our list was to visit the Cathedral and attend the noon “Pilgrim Mass”.

We arrived early enough to score seats at the front of the left transept, near the main altar. To our surprise and delight, our Camino friend Brent had already scored a prime seat in one of the front pews. We joined Brent.

Brent and I had first met walking across the Pyrenees Mountains to Roncesvalles. He checked in on Christine when she was ailing in Burgos. We again crossed paths in Leon where he and his walking companion, Mike, had honored me by buying and wearing berets, adopting my practice of donning them at the end of the day’s hike.

It was appropriate and unexpected that the three of us would share the pageantry of the noon Mass.

For many of us, the big question was, “Will they light and swing the Botafumeiro?”

Christine and I have attended Mass three times at the Santiago Cathedral. It has been our good fortune to see the grand censer swing on each occasion. It is typically reserved for special occasions, however a practice has developed where for a fee a congregant may arrange in advance for this sight at a particular Mass. I believe that the fee in 2013 was the equivalent of about $300.00.

A nun took the podium and gave instructions to the assembly on proper conduct, specifically when pictures were allowed and forbidden. Essentially, once Mass began cameras were only permitted during the proceedings involving the Botafumeiro.

As stated in the preceding post: This massive silver “thurible” (censer) is thought to be the largest of its kind in the world. The current censer was crafted in 1851 by a goldsmith from brass alloy and plated with silver, it stands over 5 feet tall and weighs 124 pounds when filled with just under 2 pounds of charcoal and incense. (Measurements are from a unique 1983 study of the Botafumeiro that was authorized by the Cathedral.) A mass of incense is then poured atop the lit charcoal. It is suspended by a rope and pulley mechanism located high above.

The current structure dates to 1604. The Botafumeiro is next hoisted upward by 8 robed attendants who set the massive smoking censer into a swinging motion. The arc soon travels high overhead, from near the top of one transept to the other, achieving a speed of over 50 miles per hour. Over the centuries there have been a few accidents where the Botafumeiro separated from the rope in the course of its arc. In 1499 the rope broke, and the censer rocketed out, crashing into one of the side doors of the Cathedral. Reportedly, no one was injured.

The ceremony was a highlight for us, as was the reading of the numbers of pilgrims, listed by country, that had registered at the Pilgrim Office the preceding day. Although individual names were not given, we “heard” recognition of our accomplishment as the tally of those from the United States was recited. At the end of this post I will include a link to a YouTube video of the swinging of the Botafumeiro.

 After Mass we occupied ourselves with wandering through the Cathedral and marveling at its beauty, art and history.

We passed before the Porta Santa (Holy Door), which is opened only during Jubilee years, years in which the feast day of St. James falls on a Sunday.

An effigy of Maestro Mateo is located at the foot of the central post of the Portico da Gloria.

Unlike the Apostle high above him, he faces into the church holding a sign on which was once visible the word “Architectus”.

Tradition held that if one gently “knocked heads” with the Architect, some of his genius would rub off. As with the other side of the column, this too was cordoned off to prevent further damage to Mateo’s granite skull.

We climbed the stairs into the chamber above and behind the main altar to embrace “The Saint”.

Beneath the main altar we visited the crypt which is reputed to be the repository of the earthly remains of St. James. The stonework of the tomb is comprised of part of the foundation of the original 9th Century church. Santiago’s silver reliquary, seen here, was created in the 19th Century.

Our explorations extended to the area and streets outside the Cathedral.

We continued to encounter familiar faces, including a couple, Claudia (Italy) and Sven (Eastern Europe), seated off the south façade of the Cathedral.

Store windows were filled with all things Camino, but apparently eight years ago I found only the octopi in a seafood shop worthy of a picture.

Tapas, wine, and beer made for an excellent lunch, with more sights to follow.

By pre-arrangement we joined Brent, Kris, and two of Brent’s Camino friends for an early dinner.

Others present included Sabine and Gerri (Netherlands),

Yosmar Martinez (America), who is an administrator for the American Pilgrims on the Camino (APOC) online forum,

and Una Barrett (Ireland).

Una and I engaged in a discussion during which I likened my time on the Camino to being in “Never Land” (from J. M. Barrie’s “Peter Pan”), where an adult may return to the spirit of youth and childlike wonder. “Tir na nÓg” she replied, “It’s Irish for “Land of Eternal Youth”, she continued. I would later recall those words for a reflection written a week later as our jet crossed the Atlantic bound for home.

We could not let go of Santiago, though that evening we confirmed our May 28th flight reservations on Ryanair, Santiago to Barcelona. Wandering the streets after dark we happened upon two more dear German Camino friends who we thought we would never see again.

Ramona and Kalina appeared in our photos at Orisson Refuge on day one of our Camino. We would later see them in Villamayor de Monjardin, and Torres del Rio. Mid-Camino, Kalina fell ill with pneumonia and spent a few days in hospital. We were relieved to see how well she looked. The four of us decided a late evening pizza and wine celebration were in order.

With a final “Buen Camino” we embraced and went our separate ways. Near midnight Christine and I crossed the square in front of the Santiago Cathedral. It loomed above us, echoing lives drawn to it over the centuries, lives changed one step at a time.

Peace Everyone, and Buen Camino. Pete

PS. Our return flight to Barcelona was scheduled to depart in 5 days. We had time to visit Muxia and Finisterre on the Atlantic Coast, but not on foot. To be continued…

This is the link to the video of the Botafumeiro,
or just “click” the picture:

https://youtu.be/S_s2Rf0Z0eE