Category: Travel

January 9, 2019. “Know Yourself”

Posted on by Pete Schloss

We are continuing our journey southwest through Oklahoma with plans to overnight at Great Plains State Park. A weather event is predicted for Friday, rain to the south, a snowy mix to the north. We are choosing rain. (The pictures interspersed below are from our drive through Wichita Mountains National Wildlife Refuge and our camp this evening.)

During long drives my mind wanders like a rat in a maze. But where a rat seeks its reward at one destination, I find rewarding thoughts at each turn… even at the dead ends. At one such “end” I recalled a phrase from ancient history, “Know Yourself”. It was attributed to Socrates who was said to admonish his students nearly 2,500 years ago to seek to know themselves before seeking knowledge of other things. The maxim actually predates Socrates and is found as one of 147 Delphic aphorisms (kind of an expanded 10 Commandments). There are also equivalents found in Egyptian temple hieroglyphics.

Know Yourself… There is what I know, a product of education and life experiences. The “physical me” is pretty straightforward. A genetic role of the dice where my parents were each a die largely determined many of my obvious and hidden physical characteristics. Except for the intervention of fate (as in an accident or outside agency) my life expectancy is even influenced by my genes. But what about WHO I am, the personality that is me.

We are products of natural selection (recent events in China may herald a change is coming). However, it may be instructive to examine what can be accomplished through “intentional selection”, as in the controlled breeding of animals. Selection can focus not only on physical characteristics but also behavioral ones. Great Danes are big and tall, Dachshunds are small and short. Similarly, Dobermans and Rottweilers stand at one end of a behavioral spectrum while Labradors and Cocker Spaniels inhabit the other.

What behavioral and personality characteristics within each of us may have a genetically influenced predisposition? I seem driven to travel. I derive deep satisfaction in bringing people together. I am a ponderously slow reader with abysmal spelling skills. These are just 3 of the traits that I have made a directed self examination.

If there is a “travel gene” I probably inherited it. My mother’s parents were immigrants from Lebanon, leaving everything known and familiar for adventure and the speculation of opportunity in America. My father’s parent were Germans from Russia, part of two mass migrations. The first occurred in the early 1800’s where hundreds of German families moved to the Ukraine at the invitation of Catherine the Great, and then again in the early 20th Century to America seeking escape from the oppression of the Bolshevik Revolution. Most of my ancestors remained in Lebanon, Germany, and the Ukraine. Not my grandparents. My mother and father each left their homes and families in pursuit of higher education, meeting at the University of Wisconsin and establishing their home in Illinois, far from their West Virginia and North Dakota roots. When I was offered my first job out of college the placement options were St. Louis and Kansas City. I chose Kansas City solely because I had never been there before. Genetic predisposition?

I have always tested well, except in spelling. I hated spelling bees because I would always be the last person chosen for a team… for good reason. No amount of tutoring seemed to help. Spellcheck and a wife who “spells for me” have been my salvation. I have to occasionally force my memory to recall the directions that b, d, z, and s face. I learned to read at a very early age, hearing the words as if spoken in my mind. I still read that way for pleasure, but not when reading was required in my professional work. Learned behavior? Genetic? Perhaps a combination.

Finally is there a social gene. A dear friend brought this to my attention saying that the “social gene” was strong in me. This caused me to reflect upon my past… childhood, gathering neighborhood children for group play… College, starting the Undergraduate Administration of Justice Association… Our return from the 2013 Camino, founding the Kansas City chapter of The American Pilgrims on the Camino… 2015, starting the Kansas City Metro Casita Owners group. And of course the delight in sharing our travels and “seeing” you cross-talk with one another in the comments to my posts. Genetic? Socrates would likely have castigated me for focusing on the irrelevant. What is important is that we can all be part of a larger family when we embrace what binds us rather than what divides us.

Peace Everyone! Pete

PS. We are in the Wichita Mountains of Oklahoma, among the oldest mountains in North America. Driving through the National Wildlife refuge we were surprised to see that the campground was open and fully functional! We continued on to Oklahoma’s Great Plains State Park with intentions to proceed tomorrow to northern Texas and then on to El Paso. We are the parks sole occupants… except for the coyotes.

PPS. If you would like to read the remaining 146 Delphic Maxims, here they are. #66 is especially profound! (from Wikipedia):

1 Follow God (Επου θεω)

2 Obey the law (Νομω πειθου)

3 Worship the Gods (Θεους σεβου)

4 Respect your parents (Γονεις αιδου)

5 Be overcome by justice (Ηττω υπο δικαιου)

6 Know what you have learned (Γνωθι μαθων)

7 Perceive what you have heard (Ακουσας νοει)

8 Be/Know Yourself (Σαυτον ισθι)

9 Intend to get married (Γαμειν μελλε)

10 Know your opportunity (Καιρον γνωθι)

11 Think as a mortal (Φρονει θνητα)

12 “If you are a stranger act like one” or “When you are a stranger be aware” (Ξepsilon;νος ων ισθι)

13 Honor the hearth/Hestia (Εστιαν τιμα)

14 Control yourself (Αρχε σεαυτου)

15 Help your friends (Φιλοις βοηθει)

16 Control anger (Θυμου κρατει)

17 Exercise prudence (Φρονησιν ασκει)

18 Honor providence (Προνοιαν τιμα)

19 Do not use an oath (Ορκω μη χρω)

20 Love friendship (Φιλιαν αγαπα)

21 Cling to discipline (Παιδειας αντεχου)

22 Pursue honor (Δοξαν διωκε)

23 Long for wisdom (Σοφιαν ζηλου)

24 Speak well of the beautiful good (sometimes translated as “Praise the Good” but “kalon” is primarily “beautiful” but a Greek synonym for good – so it’s a nuanced translation) (Καλον ευ λεγε)

25 Find fault with no one (Ψεγε μηδενα)

26 Praise those having arête.  (Επαινει αρετην)

27 Practice what is just (Πραττε δικαια)

28 Be kind to friends (Θιλοις ευνοει)

29 Watch out for your enemies (Εχθρους αμυνου)

30 Exercise nobility of character (Ευγενειαν ασκει)

31 Shun evil (Κακιας απεχου)

32 Be impartial (Κοινος γινου)

33 Guard what is yours (Ιδια φυλαττε)

34 Shun what belongs to others (Αλλοτριων απεχου)

35 Listen to everyone (Ακουε παντα)

36 Be (religiously) silent (Ευφημος ιοθι)

37 Do a favor for a friend (Φιλω χαριζου)

38 Nothing to excess (Μηδεν αγαν)

39 Use time sparingly (Χρονου φειδου)

40 Foresee the future (Ορα το μελλον)

41 Despise insolence (Υβριν μισει)

42 Have respect for suppliants (Ικετας αιδου)

43 Be accommodating in everything (Παςιν αρμοζου)

44 Educate your sons (Υιους παιδευε)

45 Give what you have (Εχων χαριζου)

46 Fear deceit (Δολον φοβου)

47 Speak well of everyone (Ευλογει παντας)

48 Be a seeker of wisdom (Φιλοσοφος γινου)

49 Choose what is divine (Οσια κρινε)

50 Act when you know (Γνους πραττε)

51 Shun murder (Φονου απεχου)

52 Pray for things possible (Ευχου δυνατα)

53 Consult the wise (Σοφοις χρω)

54 Test the character (Ηθος δοκιμαζε)

55 Give back what you have received (Λαβων αποδος)

56 Down-look no one (Υφορω μηδενα)

57 Use your skill (Τεχνη χρω)

58 Do what you mean to do (Ο μελλεις, δος)

59 Honor a benefaction (Ευεργεςιας τιμα)

60 Be jealous of no one (Φθονει μηδενι)

61 Be on your guard (Φυλακη προσεχε)

62 Praise hope (Ελπιδα αινει)

63 Despise a slanderer (Διαβολην μισει)

64 Gain possessions justly (Δικαιως κτω)

65 Honor good men (Αγαθους τιμα)

66 Know the judge (Κριτην γνωθι)

67 Master wedding-feasts (Γαμους κρατει)

68 Recognize fortune (Τυχην νομιζε)

69 Flee a pledge (Εγγυην φευγε)

70 Speak plainly (Αμλως διαλεγου)

71 Associate with your peers (Ομοιοις χρω)

72 Govern your expenses (Δαπανων αρχου)

73 Be happy with what you have (Κτωμενος ηδου)

74 Rever a sense of shame (Αισχυνην σεβου)

75 Fulfill a favor (Χαριν εκτελει)

76 Pray for happiness (Ευτυχιαν ευχου)

77 Be fond of fortune (Τυχην στεργε)

78 Observe what you have heard (Ακουων ορα)

79 Work for what you can own (Εργαζου κτητα)

80 Despise strife (Εριν μισει)

81 Detest disgrace (Ονειδς εχθαιρε)

82 Restrain the tongue (Γλωτταν ισχε)

83 Keep yourself from insolence (Υβριν αμυνου)

84 Make just judgements (Κρινε δικαια)

85 Use what you have (Χρω χρημασιν)

86 Judge incorruptibly (Αδωροδοκητος δικαζε)

87 Accuse one who is present (Αιτιω παροντα)

88 Tell when you know (Λεγε ειδως)

89 Do not depend on strength (Βιας μη εχου)

90 Live without sorrow (Αλυπως βιου)

91 Live together meekly (Ομιλει πραως)

92 Finish the race without shrinking back (Περας επιτελει μη αποδειλιων))

93 Deal kindly with everyone (Φιλοφρονει πασιν)

94 Do not curse your sons (Υιοις μη καταρω)

95 Rule your wife (Γυναικος αρχε)

96 Benefit yourself (Σεαυτον ευ ποιει)

97 Be courteous (Ευπροσηγορος γινου)

98 Give a timely response (Αποκρινου εν καιρω)

99 Struggle with glory (Πονει μετ ευκλειας)

100 Act without repenting (Πραττε αμετανοητως)

101 Regret falling short of the mark (or goal) (Αμαρτανων μετανοει)

102 Control the eye (Οφθαλμοθ κρατει)

103 Give a timely counsel (Βουλευου χρονω)

104 Act quickly (Πραττε συντομως)

105 Guard friendship (Φιλιαν φυλαττε)

106 Be grateful (Ευγνωμων γινου)

107 Pursue harmony (Ομονοιαν διωκε)

108 Keep deeply the top secret (Αρρητον κρυπτε)

109 Fear ruling (Το κρατουν φοβου)

110 Pursue what is profitable (Το συμφερον θηρω)

111 Accept due measure (Καιρον προσδεχου)

112 Do away with enmities (Εχθρας διαλυε)

113 Accept old age (Γηρας προσδεχου)

114 Do not boast in might (Επι ρωμη μη καυχω)

115 Exercise (religious) silence (Ευφημιαν ασκει)

116 Flee enmity (Απεχθειαν φευγε)

117 Acquire wealth justly (Πλουτει δικιως)

118 Do not abandon honor (Δοξαν μη λειπε)

119 Despise evil (Κακιαν μισει)

120 Venture into danger prudently (Κινδυνευε φρονιμως)

121 Do not tire of learning (Μανθανων μη καμνε)

122 Do not stop to be thrifty (Φειδομενος μη λειπε)

123 Admire oracles (Χρησμους θαυμαζε)

124 Love whom you rear (Ους τρεφεις αγαπα)

125 Do not oppose someone absent (Αποντι μη μαχου)

126 Respect the elder (Πρεσβυτερον αιδου)

127 Teach a youngster (Νεωτερον διδασκε)

128 Do not trust wealth (Πλουτω απιστει)

129 Respect yourself (Σεαυτον αιδου)

130 Do not begin to be insolent (Μη αρχε υβριζειν)

131 Crown your ancestors (Προγονους στεφανου)

132 Die for your country (Θνησκε υπερ πατριδος)

133 Do not be discontented by life (Τω βιω μη αχθου)

134 Do not make fun of the dead (Επι νεκρω μη γελα)

135 Share the load of the unfortunate (Ατυχουντι συναχθου)

136 Gratify without harming (Χαριζου αβλαβως)

137 Greave for no one (Μη επι παντι λυπου)

138 Beget rom noble routes (Εξ ευγενων γεννα)

139 Make promises to no one (Επαγγελου μηδενι)

140 Do not wrong the dead (Φθιμενους μη αδικει)

141 Be well off as a mortal (Ευ πασχε ως θνητος)

142 Do not trust fortune (Τυχη μη πιστευε)

143 As a child be well-behaved (Παις ων κοσμιος ισθι)

144 as a youth – self-disciplined (ηβων εγκρατης)

145 as of middle-age – just (μεσος δικαιος)

146 as an old man – sensible (πρεσβυτης ευλογος)

147 on reaching the end – without sorrow (τελευτων αλυπος

January 8, 2019. On the Road (Again!)

Posted on by Pete Schloss

After a home stay in Kansas City of 3 months we have our Casita, “Rigel” again in tow. This has been the longest uninterrupted period at home since our retirements in May of 2015. Even Christine was itching to get back to traveling. In 2018 we were gone over 23 weeks, including a 13 week stretch overseas. 2017 included a 12 week journey to Alaska and the Yukon. It is likely that future trips will not be quite so long as we have found them to be taxing on us and the “little people” who desperately miss their grandma.

Our morning departure was not without incident. When I pressed the start button on our SUV instead of the throaty roar of a powerful V6, all I got was a series of anemic clicks. Dead battery. In the 45 minutes that followed I bought a replacement battery at Costco, installed it and all was again right with the world. The incident annoyed me but Christine saw it differently. “Boy was that a piece of good luck! It could have died while we were traveling!” Of course, she was right.

Our time spent at home was used well. Time with the kids, time at the gym… yard work, reading, Thanksgiving, the annual family birthday dinner (a private room at Pierpont’s in Kansas City’s Union Station). I dedicated many days to assembling and editing my posts from our 13 weeks abroad into a coffee table book. 202 glossy pages that are about 40% photographs and 60% narrative. The hard bound book was printed by a firm in the Netherlands, and the final product exceeding every possible expectation that I held. Copies were given as gifts to each of our children, Christine’s father, and my mother who never fails to read and comment upon my “Thoughts”.

Christmas morning was spent with our children (and grands) after which our daughters and their 7 little ones flew to Europe for 12 days in England and France (part of which they each spent with their French host families with whom they lived for a year as high school exchange students). The daughters and their children (with the exception of 1 year old Lennon) speak fluent French. Of course there was New Year’s Eve (see previous post!).

Oh yes, there was one more “event”. We drove to Breckenridge Colorado and shared time with our dear friend Kris Ashton who we first met walking across Spain in 2013. On October 5th, Christine’s 64th birthday, we bought 3 acres near Alma Colorado, 25 minutes south of Breckenridge. We have since been working on designing the vacation home which we hope to build in 2020.

It’s cold here where we are overnighting in Oklahoma at Grand Lake of the Cherokees. We are heading southwest through Texas, New Mexico, Arizona, California and then back to Kansas City. A “wintery mix” is predicted for this region on Friday and we would like to not experience it. Our original plan had been to frequent the wonderful National Parks, Monuments, National Forests, COE and BLM sites we encounter along the way. Unfortunately, Washington has other ideas. I will leave it at that in keeping with my efforts to not politicize these posts.

Peace Everyone. Pete

New Year’s Eve 2018 Spent in “1900”

Posted on by Pete Schloss

2.1 miles, precisely. 2.1 miles is the measure of my near daily morning drive to the gym. It is a pleasant drive through an upscale neighborhood, past parks, 2 country clubs, and along the road that separates Missouri from Kansas. Many of the homes along the way are imposing structures of the early 20th Century, planted upon estate like grounds. Any one of them would cause a traveler to stop and take notice, but since they are many, their commanding presence is diluted by the sheer number that give them the illusion of commonplace. I have long ago ceased to take notice, the habit of the drive becoming a time for my thoughts to wander without direction.

Some time ago I was briefly shaken from my lassitude by an awareness of the unfamiliar. At the intersection of Shawnee Mission Parkway and State Line road is an office building that dates to the 1960’s. In the last few years it has undergone a renovation that preserved aspects of its mid-20th Century modernism, yet presented the fresh face of glass and metal that are favored today. The casual observer would presume the building at 1900 Shawnee Mission Parkway to house professional offices and in this one would be correct. However, it is also the unlikely location for an event venue and “The Restaurant at 1900”. My curiosity was briefly piqued but at the end of 2.1 miles my thoughts had traveled elsewhere.

3 weeks ago my eye again caught the understated marque sign that announced “The Restaurant at 1900”. I was reminded that mention of the restaurant had occurred in casual conversations with friends and that it was developing a favorable word of mouth reputation. Arriving at home I searched online for the establishment. The website announced a special New Years Eve fixed price dinner. 5 courses with wine pairings. There was no information on the course selections but the reservation link indicated that only a few seatings remained open. In spite of the princely sum quoted and that payment was required in full upon making the reservation, I selected an 8:15 p.m. table for two.

It had been years since we planned an evening out for New Year’s Eve. That and a Christmas that did not include any big ticket items provided me with ample justification. Christine was thrilled.

We dressed for the occasion, a rarity for me in post-retirement. No jeans. I still draw the line at wearing a tie. Black slacks, a grey Irish merino wool turtleneck, plaid Irish wool sport coat with full length green Austrian “loden” overcoat worked well. Christine found me handsomely dignified with my ensemble accentuated by my silver white hair. For Christine, dressing well is effortless. Her pewter hair cascades elegantly across her shoulders ending like a waterfall’s crash at her waist. It is thick to the point that strangers often find themselves compelled to reach out and touch it. At times this can be a bit unnerving for her and them.

The doors to the restaurant were manned by tuxedoed staff, and a few more tuxedos were to be seen among the restaurant patrons. Ladies in their evening gowns were everywhere yet the atmosphere remained relaxed. I was silently giving thanks that I had resisted the urge to wear blue jeans.

We adjourned to the bar while waiting for our table. I had the restaurant’s signature Manhattan which alone will cause me to return in the near future. Christine enjoyed an excellent vodka Martini, served “dirty” (a splash of olive juice) as she prefers.

The readiness of our table timed well with the conclusion of our drinks. We were seated and made introductions with our server, Rachel. The mark of an experienced professional server is the intuition to quickly know the “temperature” of the guests… warm and willing to banter, or cool and more reserved. We are definitely of the warmer variety and it took Rachel less than 30 seconds to figure that out. Fun, personable, yet never shirking in her primary duty to present dinner as an event to be savored. The first order of business was to make our selections for a dinner that would extend for 2 1/2 hours:

1st Course: We each optioned for the excellent Pheasant Minestrone, though I was sorely tempted to select the Wild Mushroom, Apple, and Scotch Whisky Consommé.

2nd Course: Christine savored the Russian Salad while I lingered lovingly upon the Sea Scallop, Blood Orange, and Watercress Salad.

3rd Course: Sunchoke Rissoto with Alba White Truffles… It just kept getting better and better!

4th Course: We were both called to the Pan Seared Tenderloin of Beef and Foie Gras. Perfectly prepared, perfectly presented, but I was beneficiary some of Christine’s Foie Gras… my good fortune that she does not usually eat liver in any form.

5th Course: Without hesitation we both chose the Chocolate Ganache Layer Cake, and there were no regrets!!

With each course was a paired wine as selected by Master Sommelier Doug Frost. Typically, I reject the conventions of “this wine with this dish…”, preferring to drink a wine that I like be it red or white regardless of the meal. Mr. Frost may have changed my thinking on this. I found his wine selections marshaled with my food choices to be such that the whole was greater than the sum of the parts.

We found that the straightforward elegance of The Restaurant at 1900 was conducive to reflective and relaxed conversation. Mercifully we were able to speak across the table and be understood without raising our voices… a rarity while dining these days. I enjoyed one slight distraction. I was seated at an angle that permitted me a glimpse inside the kitchen during the moments that staff entered and exited. I was reminded of the experience of being aboard a luxury cruise ship. There is a stark contrast between the artistic decor of the passenger areas and the spotlessly clean yet sterile working areas within the ship. I was amused to watch the organized chaos of the staff within the kitchen area magically transform into slow ballet like precision as each crossed the threshold into the dining room.

It goes without saying that we will return to The Restaurant at 1900. Our thanks to Chef Linda Duerr, the faceless staff working tirelessly in the kitchen, to our server Rachel, hostess Angela, the other servers and bartenders and to Keith Goldman who manages this wonderful venue. You all provided us with an evening to remember and an intense desire to return for dinner and another exceptional Manhattan!

Of course for us the evening was about much more than dining. We watched as 2018 passed into the promise of 2019. With each course we indulged in one more reflection upon how we might be better parents, grandparents, spouses, friends… No regrets. Life is a process and not a destination. May your Journey through the New Year be full of Fun while you Do Good and Care For Yourself for the sake of those who love you.

Peace Everyone. Pete

PS: Among the “mysteries” Christine and I contemplated were the dynamics of family; hers, mine, and ours. There is much source material in those thoughts that we exchanged, but not to be shared here or now.

September 20-21, 2018. NH, VT, NY, Homeward Bound.

Posted on by Pete Schloss

We are fresh off from spending 2 wonderful nights “camped” at the home of dear friends Liz and Frank near Squam Lake in New Hampshire. Our friendship has its roots in the Camino and we count friendships such as theirs as another unexpected gift of that pilgrimage. We look forward to extending hospitality to them at our home in the near future.

We never seemed to lack for conversation. The topics mirrored the stage of life we share, children, grandchildren, retirement… But most of all we embraced the joys of our good marriages, wonder at the seemingly insignificant moments in our lives that became life defining, and gratitude. Our time spent with good people like Liz and Frank, Tom and Nanci (earlier in this trip), and past times with many of you who are reading these words is spiritual to me. Friendship is a celebration of the best that people have to offer one another.

Barring the unforeseen, we will be heading into Pennsylvania for two nights shared with a dear friend from high school, Maxine and her husband Chip… then on to a couple of nights with my Mother in Illinois as the last stop on one of the best trips of the last 3 years.

Peace Everyone. Pete

September 18-19, 2018. A Church and Back in the USA.

Posted on by Pete Schloss

It is 5 a.m. the morning of the 19th. For much of this trip this has been the default time for writing my “Thoughts”. Christine remains asleep a few feet from me while I am treated to the sight of night slowly yielding to day. I often go to sleep with no intention of writing, but I awake, sometimes long before 5, and find that my “Thoughts” have been composed somewhere in the recesses of my subconscious. I get up, pull out my iPad and begin to type. It works, but how?… it’s a mystery.

Yesterday, as we left Trois-Pistoles Quebec my eye was drawn to the steeple that commanded a view above the village. There is not much to see in Trois-Pistoles but Trip Adviser mentioned a Basque cultural center, a Basque cheese “Fromagerie”, a small micro-brewery, and the church. The micro-brewery was closed when we arrived late on the 17th as was the cultural center. We are watching our weight so no cheese. The church held the number one spot for recommended things to see and do in Trois-Pistoles.

As an aside, there is a lingering Basque influence in this area that predates the 16th Century arrival of Jacques Cartier. Basque whalers traveled seasonally to these waters in hunt for the leviathans.

As a second aside, “Trois-Pistoles” is the name of a remarkably strong and complex beer crafted by the Canadian brewer, Unibroue… but not in Trois-Pistoles. For you aficionados it is worth seeking out on the shelves of discerning liquor stores and taverns in the States.

Now, about that church. Église Notre-Dame-des-Neiges was completed in 1887. It is truly monumental, far out of scale for the small town in which it is situated. It appeared to be closed, but we checked the doors and found that one side-door was unlocked. In my youth churches were always unlocked as the needs of those seeking a place for prayer were not constrained to banking hours. Perhaps Trois-Pistoles lacks the usual small population of miscreants who, if given the opportunity, deface and steal from houses of worship. Perhaps we were the coincidental beneficiaries of someone’s inadvertent omission… but as a good man in Puerto Rico told us earlier this year, “In life there are no coincidences”.

Upon entering the church we were treated to the most spectacular old world interior of any church that we have seen in North America. The long rows of pews appeared each individually carved. They gleamed mirror-like with flawless varnished surfaces. The towering pillars were hand painted with a faux marble finish and supported the lofty ceiling vault and dome. Remarkable!

While the overall impression was breathtaking, I found my eye drawn to the details of the church… the statue of Christ crucified,

The ornate confessional booths,

The Baptismal Font that had no doubt greeted thousands into the “fold”, and the galleries and pipe organ,

The Alter and Canopy,

The spiral stairs to the lectern used in former days to deliver the Gospel and homily to the congregants,

And then there was the very curious small pew standing alone in the back of the church. My first impression was that it was reserved for sinners ostracized but not excommunicated for some spiritual failing. There was a sign written in French on the pew. With the aid of Google Translate we learned the truth:

This was the bench of the Vire-chien, or “dog-guard”. It was occupied by the Church Constable whose tasks consisted in maintaining order in the church, opening or closing the doors during events such as weddings and funerals, regulating the heat as needed, and preventing dogs from entering the church. Tradition held that dogs entering a church were the harbinger of misfortune in the village. The Vire-chien wore a tricorned hat with a gilded silver-colored ribbon. The hat matched his long frock coat, which was of black wool. The costume was abandoned in the twentieth century, but perhaps the position of Vire-chien remains to this day.

Finally, there were the ubiquitous votive candles, a standard feature in most Catholic churches. These were particularly beautiful and well executed under the sympathetic gaze of the Virgin Mary.

I like churches for what they say about the people of a community. My thoughts about organized religion have become “complicated” over the years and don’t warrant airing here. Nevertheless I was gifted as a child with traditions of contemplation that still resonate with me. One of those is the lighting of a candle. The solitary flame brings a somber focus to my thoughts. In the course of the last few months a number of friends have exited from this life. A few days ago I paid homage to a remarkable woman who died 25 years ago. I recall the memories of those dear to me, now long passed. My wife and I have the blessing of being together in good health, being companions in travel, friends and lovers in life. So much to put upon the shoulders of that single flame…

Peace Everyone. Pete

PS. We crossed into the United States last night.