May 5-6, 2013. Sahagun, Calzadilla de los Hermanillos, and Leon.

“Saint” (noun), A very virtuous, kind, or patient person…”

The Camino teems with pilgrims who by the above non-ecclesiastical definition are “saints”. As I came to better know one such Peregrino, his claim to “sainthood” was exceptional. I am confident that Dr. Bernard De Geeter would deny this mantle of “sainthood”. That would be just another proof of his entitlement to the accolade.

I was formally introduced to Bernard by Maggie on May 2^nd in Carrion de los Condes. I recall first seeing him on April 25^th in Belorado where he joined a group of us at a café. He appears that day within these posts as a “face on the Camino”.

Bernard was amiable, well dressed for a Peregrino, and appeared more fit than the average man approaching 70 years of age. He was quiet, but not unsocial or withdrawn. I really took notice of him when in the course of being introduced I learned that his Camino had begun on February 13, 2013, in snow covered Strasbourg, France, over 2,300km from Santiago. At the time we met he had already walked nearly 3 months and covered 1,900km. In my mind this did not qualify him for “sainthood”, but it was a pretty good start.

On the evening of May 4th Christine and I decided that the following morning she would leave by bus and skip ahead to Leon. I would resume walking solo, overnighting in Calzadilla de los Hermanillos on the 5^th, then catch up to  her in Leon on the 6^th.

Setting off at dawn it was my good fortune to run into Bernard about 1km out of Sahagun at the Puente Canto bridge. Sunrise provided excellent lighting for pictures. The bridge crossed the River Cea and was originally constructed by the Romans. It was given to later restorations in the 11^th and 16^th Centuries.

Shortly after meeting we encountered our mutual friend, Maggie. The three of us seemed to hold to similar paces, so  we walked in loose company on to our next destination.

Our goal for the day was the tiny village of  Calzadilla de los Hermanillos, (pop. 140) 14km distant.

No doubt we would have walked further except that the next village with any accommodations was another 25km beyond Calzadilla. Over the course of the next two days we would be walking one of the most open and rural regions of Spain’s Meseta.

Bernard and I got along well. He spoke English fluently and shared my willingness to exchange our “stories”. He explained that he was a pediatric cardiac surgeon. Digging deeper with my questions (and later with Google) I learned that he was internationally known for his pioneering work in the field that included the development of surgical procedures for children still in the womb. Another point in favor of “sainthood”.

As pilgrims do, we shared our reasons for walking the Camino. I was still “seeking adventure and adding to my bucket list”. I became embarrassed as Bernard revealed the following:

Bernard and a team of physicians spent 3-4 months each year traveling to various third world countries, volunteering their skills and providing free medical care to the poor in those nations. In Bernard’s case he had conducted thousands of lifesaving operations on children. (Yep, sainthood.)

What came next stunned me.  Bernard explained that he walked the Camino seeking the intercession of St. James, for relief from an emotional burden that he carried. Over the years thousands of poverty stricken parents walked hundreds of kilometers with their children seeking Bernard’s aid. Among them were those to whom he had to say, “I am sorry, but your child’s condition is beyond my ability to help.” With those parents he shares tears.

Then there were the other parents whose children he could help. “Peter, I feel so helpless that what I do for them does not change the poverty, hunger, and danger that they return to. I remember the faces of every mother, father, and child, those I cannot help and those that I can, but helpless to change the life that they are returning to.”

The pain in Bernard’s voice was palpable and drew from me both silence and tears. Above us were wisps of clouds that seemed to take the form of angels. I found that I walked with one.

We arrived in Calzadilla de los Hermanillos shortly after noon.

The town provided two options for the night, a humble 16 bed municipal Albergue, and a delightful private one, the 20 bed Via Trajana where private rooms were available.

Bernard and I elected to share one that featured twin beds and a private bath.

Via Trajana was also  known for its intimate dining and excellent wine cellar. We joined other Peregrinos, taking advantage of both food and drink that evening.

After dinner I took the opportunity to wander a bit and gather my thoughts.

Natalie, a pilgrim from France, made use of some extra butter left over from dinner to dress and waterproof the leather of her boots.

May 6^th.

Up early the next morning, the near endless horizon drew me outside to witness the break of dawn.

On this day we would walk the finest section of extant Roman road in Spain of which our prior night’s accommodation was its namesake, the Via Trajana. The pristine condition of the 2,000 year old road speaks well of Roman engineering prowess.

It was once a main east-west corridor of commerce linking the gold fields of Gallaecia in the west, east through Astorga and eventually on to Rome. It was also a favored military artery for Caesar Augustus and in later centuries for the warring Moors and Christians, Charlemagne included.

In spite of its historical connection to centuries of commerce and violence the Via Trajana only presented us with peace and relaxing solitude.

I parted ways with Bernard as we neared the town of Mansilla de las Mulas where he intended to spend the night. On the other hand, I sought the bus depot in a different part of town where I could catch one of the frequent departures for an 18km ride into Leon’s city center. Christine had already been there since May 5^th, staying in a hotel near the Cathedral and waiting my arrival. I would miss Bernard, but I would be joining my wife and missing a 4 hour slog through the industry and suburbs of Leon. Bernard and I continued to exchange emails over the remainder of the Camino. He even sharing a photo of the May 22^nd reunion with his wife Catherine in Santiago and Catherine meeting Maggie.

My detour took me to the village of Reliegos (pop. 200) and through a neighborhood of curious “Hobbit Houses” which were built into the hillside. While some of these may have served as homes, most were “Bodegas”, where wine was stored at near constant temperature, protected from the scorching heat and sun of the Meseta.

As I neared Mansilla I saw in the distance a large pilgrim with a distinctive walk. I immediately knew it to be Henk. Rushing to catch up to him I saw that he had stopped to talk on his cell phone. This was not unusual for Henk as he maintained very close contact with his wife Alice back in the Netherlands. It was curious to me that the Germans, Gaby and Christine, were nowhere to be seen. The three of them usually traveled together.

Just before I reached him he clicked his phone shut and turned to face me. “Peeeter!” he exclaimed with his north European accent. “Henk, you saw me… where are Gaby and Christine?” “But of course I saw you. They are ahead waiting for us in the garden at the Albergue. I have just asked them to order our beers.”

A few minutes later Henk and I arrived at the Albergue, the ladies and two cold beers were waiting for us. Once more I enjoyed the company of, and a beer with, these dear Camino friends.

I didn’t know it at the moment, but this was to be the last time that I would see Henk in person. We remain in touch to this day. I am reminded that on the Camino “Buen Camino” is exchanged not only as a greeting, but also as an acknowledgement at parting that both the journey ahead and the future are unknown.

Peace Everyone. Pete

PS. During the 8 years that I attended Catholic grade school I was taught that there were only two ways of attaining Church recognized sainthood, being a martyr for the Faith, and being a Confessor (promoter) for the Faith, also called a “Soldier of Christ”.

As we walked across Spain I was occasionally reminded of the horrors of the Spanish Inquisition, the persecution of Jews, and the burning of alleged witches, all victims of religious persecutions at the hands of the Church.

It has been estimated that during its 350 year history (1478-1834), the Inquisition alone accounted for over 150,000 prosecuted and 5,000 executed.

In my adult years I am left to wonder whether those martyred “by the Faith” should not also have been declared saints.

May 4, 2013. Sahagun, Spain.

Sahagun, Spain is not known as a destination city by those of us from North America. With a population of 170,000 it is large enough to be considered a tourist destination. Weighing in its favor: It was once the seat of religious and civil power in the region. It has a place in history dating to before the time of Charlemagne, and it has long been an important waypoint for pilgrims on the Camino. At one time Sahagun bristled with pilgrim hospitals, churches, and monasteries that might have been a draw for tourism, but not today. One reason for its shortage of ancient monumental structures is the lack of quarriable stone in the region. Large buildings were therefore constructed of brick and mortar in a style known as “Mudejar” that does not stand up to time as well as granite or limestone.

Nevertheless, we found May 4th in Sahagun to be charming. Pleasant weather, lovely company, and a relaxed pace made for a memorable honeymoon like day “off the Camino”.

Or were we really “off the Camino”? The Camino is a pilgrimage which may be defined as an intentional journey to a destination. Both a journey and a destination that are focused upon something or someone important to the pilgrim. It can be religious, or it can be a journey of self-discovery. Why then not a journey that explores the most important of interpersonal relationships, that of spouses. On the Camino it is the physical, emotional, and spiritual journey that matters more than the destination. Destination, although literally “the goal”, is merely the means to attain the enlightenment that is the fundamental purpose of pilgrimage.

Some “hard core” Peregrinos may take exception to my views, but many of those same pilgrims are more focused upon things pedestrian, such as shoes, packs, sleeping bags, and bed bugs than upon introspection and self-discovery. It is like two parishioners who leave a church service, one contemplating the message of the minister’s sermon and the other  fixated upon the minister’s failure to adequately shine his shoes and straighten his collar.

From the beginning of our Camino I found myself looking at my wife with fresh eyes and a deeper appreciation for my good fortune in marriage. May 4^th was a day that we focused upon each other while sharing the backdrop of what the city of Sahagun had to offer.

We again visited the Arco San Benito on our way to to the 12^th Century Iglesia San Lorenzo and the Plaza Mayor where vendors were selling their wares.

At the Plaza we encountered a Camino friend, Paul Sommers from Australia, another “face on the Camino”.

Across the central city to the south and high upon a prominence we visited the Monasterio de la Peregrina. This 13^th Century Franciscan Convent has served as a monastery, church, pilgrim hospital, and is now restored as a museum.

It provided interesting telephoto views across town to the Cantabrian mountains in the north.

It also featured an open crypt with mummified remains and a couple of skulls. These were found during the restoration embedded in a wall near the main altar. It is believed that these remains date to the 15^th Century.

An unexpected highlight for us was an overview of the principal sites of Sahagun, done in miniature. A man whose identity was unknown to us dedicated a piece of his life to the creation of these incredibly detailed models. These places were each constructed as they would have appeared at their zenith. I took the interior images through the doors and windows of the miniatures.

Of course there was a “Roman bridge” to wander by, after all we were in Spain.

On the way back to our hotel we again passed through the Plaza Mayor. This time instead of vendors we encountered a group of folks dressed in their national costume finery. Those who gathered celebrated a pair of newlyweds and the first steps of their love and life together.

Ours was not the only “Honeymoon in Sahagun” celebrated that day.

Peace Everyone. Pete

Written at Fromista, Spain. May 2, 2013.

Before we left the States for the Camino I had embraced an expectation that I would walk each and every kilometer, pack on my back. I have since learned that such an expectation is an endurance hike, and not a Camino. We have seen many Peregrinos take one or more days off from the journey for reasons ranging from health to a wish to better experience a community. Today we watched a group of 20 Peregrinos leave by bus for Leon, “skipping” over 100km of the route and thus avoiding most of the Meseta (think western Kansas). Among the common refrains that are recited is that “One does not plan the Camino”, and, “Everyone’s Camino is their own.”

Being forced off the Camino for a few days because of health concerns, mine and Christine’s, has created a disappointment that has distracted me from the rich experiences we have encountered. I have found myself focused upon one difficult day to the exclusion of a score of extraordinary ones. This is the hazard of developing expectations. There can be no disappointments if one sheds all expectations.

I have wondered how this might have played out in the 11th Century:

Expectations and Disappointment, a Parable.

Somewhere on the Camino in the year of Our Lord 1013, a weary and travel worn Peregrino surrenders the burro which he has ridden into town to a shopkeeper. The Pilgrim slowly hobbles across the village square, entering the imposing cut granite church that is the axis of the community. Confessions are being heard. Our Peregrino, adorned in his tatters, enters the confessional booth and begins to recite the prescribed formula:

Peregrino: Bless me Father, for I have sinned. It has been one day since my last confession (Note: The sacrament of Confession was more popular in the 11th Century) and these are my sins. I have had impure thoughts, and I have broken my sacred vows to the Blessed Virgin and to St. James.

Priest: The breaking of a vow is a very serious matter! Explain yourself.

Peregrino: Father, I am a Pilgrim walking the Camino. I made my vows to Our Lady and to St. James that I would walk the entire Journey assisted only by my own two feet. Earlier today I stumbled upon a rock and found that I was unable to continue. A farmer, taking pity upon me, gave me the use of a burro upon which I traveled the rest of this day. I have now surrendered the animal to the farmer’s brother, a shopkeeper on the square.

Priest: My son, your sin is not the breaking of a vow, but in possessing such arrogance as to presume to tell our Lord what your Camino would be. God in his infinite Knowledge and Mercy provided you with a burro to continue your journey. However, your disappointment, fathered by your expectations, has blinded you from appreciating God’s Grace. My son, this is a serious sin indeed.

Peregrino: For my sin I am heartily sorry Padre, and I willingly embrace your penance.

Priest: My son, for your penance you shall go to the river and divesting yourself of your robes, you will bathe and clean yourself of all expectations for your Camino.

Peregrino: Excuse me Padre, but is it not more common to just require that I recite 3 “Our Fathers” and 5 “Hail Marys”? Besides Father, I bathed earlier this year.

Priest: So Peregrino, do you now also impose your expectations upon the penances that I give you!?! By the way, I almost forgot, tell me more about those impure thoughts.

Peregrino: Well Father, I don’t really know. I have always given 2 sins, and since my parents are both dead I can no longer use “disobedience”.

Priest: I see. Then for the impure thoughts you could have had, you get 3 “Our Fathers” and 5 “Hail Marys”. And after you bathe, wash your robes and line your cod-piece with fresh herbs. Your odor is strong enough to delay the Second Coming of Christ!

The Pilgrim was true to his word. He devoutly recited 3 “Our Fathers” and 5 “Hail Marys”. He bathed, and thoroughly washed his robes and cod-piece. Unfortunately, some habits are not easily broken. As the Peregrino was searching for fresh herbs to line his cod-piece, he could be heard to declare, “I swear by the Blessed Mother and by St. James that I WILL complete the rest of my Camino without further interruption!”

Soon thereafter the Pilgrim chose an innocent looking, vine-like, three leafed plant to line his cod-piece.

Love to you all. Have Fun, Do Good, and Be Safe! Buen Camino. Pete