I was up early, made breakfast, broke camp, and was on the road by 8:30 this morning. With a slight press to make my scheduled arrival in Idaho I decided to make this a driving day.

By 8 pm this evening I had put 400 miles behind me. That may not sound like much, but the siren song of remarkable non-stop scenery imposed frequent camera stops.

Tonight’s challenge is to pick the best pictures from a portfolio of great shots.

On the route I passed through Walden Colorado and proceeded the 51 miles north to Riverside Wyoming.

This remote stretch of two lane state highway is a popular byway for bicyclists traveling cross-country. I and 15 companions did so on July 3, 2010 as we worked our way south from Cape Flattery Washington to Key West Florida. The drive today was full of memories which included the cabin I shared with Christine in Riverside, and the Antler Inn Hotel where we stayed at in Walden.

As I left Colorado and entered Wyoming I saw cyclists in the distance.

I waited for their arrival at the State Line and then offered to take their picture. Somewhere in my 2010 archive of shots there is one of Christine and me at that very spot… I FOUND IT! (The miracle of “cloud storage”!)

I had thought to stop at a State Park for the night. North of Riverton Wyoming is Boysen State Park near the Wind River Canyon. I stopped long enough to assess that $35.00 would buy me a parking spot, cynically called a campsite, pit-pots, and nothing more. To be fair the scenery was grand but 40+ mph winds blowing off the Boysen Reservoir guaranteed I would not be out to appreciate the view. I passed on the State Park.

I then spent the next 45 minutes winding through the sheer cliff walls of the Wind River Canyon. I regret that I couldn’t stop to take some shots until I came to the north end of the Canyon.

Seven miles later I stopped at the Southside Exxon Travel Center in Thermopolis. Christine and I learned early in our retirement that when the goal is to make miles it doesn’t make sense to pay $30+ for a campsite when many truck stops feature showers, laundries, and other amenities intended for over-the-road truckers, but just as available for RVer’s. I filled the gas tank and bought my first real shower since Denver for the princely sum of $8.00. They provide towel, washcloth, soap, and shampoo. Overnight parking is free, and there is even free WiFi. The scenery isn’t much, but there is indeed something to be said for gas station camping.

Tomorrow I should make it to Red Lodge Montana and the Bear Tooth Highway.

Peace Everyone. Pete

PS: More pictures follow below.

The ultimate destination of this trip has alway been the Coeur d’Alene bicycle trail that stretches the width of northern Idaho, from Plummer Idaho in the West to Mullen Idaho in the east.

73 miles of asphalt that is dedicated to bicyclists and pedestrians. It winds through the Bitterroot Mountains and is the former route of the “Olympian Hiawatha”, a legendary 1st class rail connection founded by the Chicago, Milwaukee, St. Paul and Pacific Railroad (aka “The Milwaukee Road”).

This star of America’s rails to trails boom was featured years ago in National Geographic. I bookmarked this in my mind as a thing to do “someday”. Someday almost passed me by today. My plan had been to camp at an Idaho State Park near Plummer, leave the trailer and ride my bike to Wallace ID, near the trails end. I was going to secure a motel, and the following day add another 30+ miles by riding into Montana on the Route of the Hiawatha trail, passing through old railroad tunnels and over high trestles. Included would be the 1.66 mile long Taft Tunnel before returning to the motel in Wallace. On day three I planned to bicycle back to Plummer and my camp.

A call to the State Park brought shocking news… no suitable vacancies, period! I shifted into problem solving mode. There were no other options at the west end of the trail, so turning to the east end I found a small private RV park located in Wallace. Jackpot! They had ONE vacancy that suited my needs. What’s more, the park is located 200 feet off the bike trail and next door to a craft brew-pub. The original plan will require some alterations, but the core of my intentions now remains intact. I dodged a “bullet”, but in the process was forced to abandon flexibility and set a date certain for my ride on the trails.

Today I broke my new touring bicycle out for a spin. A 20 mile round trip from Winter Park Resort to beyond Frazier.

I would have continued to Tabernash but dark clouds and drizzle turned me back. My new bike is a Surly “Long-Haul-Trucker”. It is not a replacement for my much lighter custom built titanium “Seven”, but is better suited for the kind of riding I wish to pursue while traveling.

The ride proved the wisdom of this bicycle choice, and with a little fine tuning it should be perfect on the Coeur d’Alene and Route of the Hiawatha.

This is my last night in the Robbers Roost US Forest Service campground. I treated myself to a “real” breakfast this morning, a sausage, Anaheim pepper and cheese omelet. This evening I added to the culinary celebration with a Dutch Oven pizza, drawing from an unusual assortment of available ingredients: Salmon, mushrooms, Hatch chilis, chipotle cheddar cheese, and a liberal topping of Cholula hot sauce. Oh yes, there was also a salad.

As I monitored my Dutch Oven, cooking time synchronized with two beers, a very unusual rig pulled into the campground.

The owners are Denny and his wife from Texas. He is a grizzled looking Vietnam War Army veteran. The couple had been avid motorcycle travelers, but the gradual age-related loss of his balance drove Denny to his Polaris manufactured “Slingshot” tricycle. It’s powered by a 200hp 4-cylinder Chevy engine. A custom option exists to drop in a small-block Corvette V8… bet that would shame some $200,000 4 wheel exotics. Denny is exploring teardrop trailer options to pull behind his trike.

In the morning I head north into Wyoming. I have been fortunate to have good cell service these last few days. No guarantees going forward. In the meantime…

Peace Everyone. Pete

After two days spent with our dear friend Kris Ashton I am back on the road. Followers of these posts will recall that we first met Kris in 2013 while walking the Camino in Spain. She also joined us earlier this year aboard the narrowboat, Salten Fjord, on the canals of England. It was a good call to spend the Independence Day holiday in Denver. In Kris’ company I had the opportunity to attend a party on the 16th floor of a high-rise condominium that commanded an uninterrupted view of Denver, the front range, and scores of public and private fireworks displays.

It turned out that I knew the hosts, Gene and Rosanne, and a number of their guests through my association with the organization, American Pilgrims on the Camino. One of the attendees (another woman named Chris!) is also a frequent reader of these posts.

The company was welcoming, the tapas delicious, and the view from the hosts’ balcony was nothing short of spectacular. Here are a few images and a link to a one minute video.

Denver 4th of July Fireworks

It is not in my nature to seek out or feel comfortable at parties…alcohol helps. I am a closet introvert and always have been. My wife and children have know this about me and likely find some irony and humor in the fact that I am presumed by most to be an extrovert. I admit that I am driven to connect with people, but on a one-on-one basis. Individuals interest me, groups intimidate me. Another irony is that I enjoy connecting people and creating groups. For some reason I do this best when Christine is around. Perhaps she is something of a social life line for me.

Which brings me to the “Different kind of Adventure”. I am traveling alone and the plan is for this to extend for 30 days. I have never traveled solo (as in no companions) that long before. Before Christine and I were married I took off for a 2 week solo camping trip. I lasted (barely) 10 days before the solitude got to me. I returned to Kansas City unannounced (no cell phones then) and like Juliet’s Romeo I stood below her apartment balcony in the darkness of night. I climbed the balcony and entered her bedroom… scared the crap out of her and in retrospect what I thought was romantic could have easily gotten me shot. Again, I have never done solo well and on that occasion it may have effected my common sense.

As I write this post I have the fiction of being in the company of those who read my “Thoughts”. I sense that the posts about this journey will not only pertain to what I see and do, but how I process the “adventure of solitude”.

Now as to what I am doing: I lucked into a vacant campsite just north of the Berthoud Pass along US 40 highway in Colorado. It is a small Forest Service campground at 9,600 feet above sea level that features only primitive outhouses.

Vestiges of snow are still visible in the trees. There is no electricity and no running water. My trailer is self contained and usually good for 4-5 days when there are two of us. Since it is just me I should be good for at least a week before I have to dump the black and gray water tanks. There is fresh water available a few miles down the road and I have a 5 gallon container to transport it back to camp. Wonder of wonder, I have strong cell service here. Not wanting to test my luck I plan to stay here through the end of the weekend.

Tomorrow I look forward to a hike above tree-line and some stunning vistas from 12,000 feet in elevation… of course, weather permitting.

Peace Everyone. Pete

PS: Thanks for keeping me company!!

PPS: Berthoud Pass is 11,314 feet above sea level. It was discovered in May 1861 by Captain E. L. Berthoud. Of course that’s not exactly true since the indigenous population had been using it for travel across the Continental Divide for thousands of years. Berthoud and Jim Bridger of mountain man fame surveyed the Pass in July of 1861, and a toll road was opened over the pass in 1874. An “improved highway” was opened over the Pass in 1923.