July 5, 2022.

It’s a little after 5 a.m. which is my typical waking hour. Here the sky begins to grow light about 4:30 a.m.. This works well for us as it gives me a few hours time to write before Christine wakes. However, it’s tough to not disturb her with the random noises I can’t avoid within the tiny space of our trailer.

I received a “dangerous heat” warning for Kansas City on my weather app. Here in Nova Scotia we won’t see 80 degrees for at least the next 10 days. Overnight it got down to 52. I’ll happily take this summer climate, mosquitoes and all.

We arrived yesterday afternoon at Thomas Raddall Provincial Park, located about 100 miles up the Atlantic Coast from Yarmouth.

It is remote, but there is a small seaside community not far away that we may visit later today.

The campsites offer a combination of open sky and shade, a picnic table, and a fire ring.

There is central water, however in the campground it is subject to a contamination “boil order”. Fortunately the water tap at the park office is potable. There is a central bathhouse that serves the 82 campsites. A nice network of trails are promising for the day, some leading to the seashore.

We left Yarmouth yesterday, but not before stopping in town to walk near the downtown and see some of its “painted ladies”. The streets abound with 19th Century mansions, many beautifully restored. Here are images of just a few.

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A second reason for returning to town before continuing on our journey was the Yarmouth County Museum.

Opened in 1935, contemporaneously with the founding of the Yarmouth Historical Society, it houses a well curated collection of nautical art (the 3rd largest in Canada), Victorian period furniture and costumes, and a wide array of interesting artifacts. What originally drew me to visit were signs at Cape Forschu indicating that the mysterious Runic Stone and 19th Century lighthouse Fresnel lens were kept there.

We were greeted by Nadine Gates, the museum’s Director and Curator. She explained the 12,000 square foot layout of the museum which has been housed since 1969 in the former Tabernacle Congregational Church, an 1892 granite church listed on the Canadian Register of Historic Places. Nadine encouraged us to also visit the Fuller Mansion located next door and managed by the Historical Society.

We are glad we did, but more on that in a moment. Admission to both was only $5.00 and worth every penny!

The Museum was beautifully presented.

Here are just a few images, but more can be seen on its website:

The Yarmouth County Museum

Victorian costumes and furnishings:

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The mysterious Runic Stone:

The huge second order Fresnel Lens, as seen from the side and looking up through it.

This French invention had the ability to concentrate and thus magnify the light of a single kerosene flame into a beam of over 600,000 candlepower visible for over 20 miles. This pristine relic had been used in the 1840 Forchu Point lighthouse until that structure was replaced in the 1960’s.

There was a transportation exhibit that included a horse drawn hearse, a locally manufactured stagecoach, and a 1921 Automatic Electric Car, manufactured in Buffalo, New York. Ahead of its time, this small vehicle sat 2, had a range of 60 miles, and a top speed of nearly 20 mph. For more details on this fascinating little vehicle:

Yarmouth ‘s Electric Car

It would take nearly a century for “electrics” to finally catch on, yet another example, the Standard Electric manufactured between 1912 and 1915 in Jackson Michigan, sat 4, had a top speed of over 20 mph, a range of 110 miles, and a guarantee that the battery was good for 20,000 miles!

From the Museum we were escorted next door to the Fuller Summer Mansion by delightful and capable Madeline.

This was the summer home of Alfred and Susan Primrose (“Prim”) Fuller. Alfred, a native of Nova Scotia, was the founder of the multi-million dollar Fuller Brush Company.

The home, originally built in 1892, was donated to the Historical Society by Prim Fuller in 1997. It has been beautifully restored and houses period furnishings, many originally owned by the Fullers.

It did not take long for my age to show to the youthful Madeline. I noticed a small picture of the Fullers in company with the actor James Cagney. “That’s Jimmy Cagney.” I remarked, to which Madeline responded, “Wow, you are the first person I know of who recognized him!”

Seeing many of the old appliances, furnishings, and crochet work I often remarked of fond recollections from my youth. I recounted a visit to my childhood home by the “Fuller Brush Man”, and the products that my mother bought. At one point I mentioned that my grandfather was born the same year as Alfred Fuller, 1885. With big eyes Madeline then added, “Wow. My GREAT-grandmother wasn’t born until 1931.”

Madeline was charming, and no doubt found me entertaining.

Then we came to the kitchen. On the counter sat a standard mid-20th Century dial telephone. In jest I asked Madeline if she had ever used one. “No”, came her reply. Still somewhat in jest I then asked if she knew HOW to use one. “No” came the nonchalant response. I was flummoxed! I have seen videos of young people befuddled by dial telephones, but until that moment I did not fully comprehend that a child of the 21st Century would no more know how to “dial” a telephone, than I would know how to perform many common tasks from the 19th Century.

Christine gave a quick lesson in “dialing”. As Chris lifted the receiver she remarked, “Hey! There’s a dial tone! It still works!!”

Our intention had been to spend an hour or so in town. Instead, we were not back on the road until nearly 1 p.m.. The Yarmouth County Museum and Fuller Home are among the finest community museums that we have encountered in our travels across North America. Moreover, we thoroughly enjoyed meeting more friendly Canadians.

It’s time to wake Christine. Peace Everyone. Pete

PS. The couple from Quebec in the next campsite just stopped by to say that a bear visited their site this morning.

July 2, 2022. Bar Harbor, Maine.

Yesterday and the day before we wandered, first day Bar Harbor’s tourist district, and yesterday Acadia National Park.

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When we haven’t been out and about or managing camping “stuff” I have found myself writing content for these posts and struggling against poor connectivity to upload the pictures and content. My “reality check”, Christine, and I talked. More on that in a minute.

Since we learned a few years ago that a part of France is located a short 1 hour ferry ride off the coast of Newfoundland it has been our intention to make a visit to these Miquelon Islands. Somehow the thought of France being located in and just off the coast of North America feels “foreign” (pun intended). However, when one considers that Hawaii, a group of islands thousands of miles from the mainland United States, is part of the USA, then not so strange.

We have been evaluating our Canada itinerary which begins today with a 3 hour ferry crossing to Nova Scotia. We will be 8 days in Nova Scotia, followed by 19 days in Newfoundland. With only two exceptions we are camping in two day increments.

Newfoundland is not small. Our plan included 3-5 hour drive times between each planned camping location, EXCEPT from Gros Morne National Park to the town of Fortune where we would cross to Isle St. Pierre, France, in the Miquelon Islands. That day promised to present at least 10 hours behind the wheel. We paid for the ferry crossing, a tour, and campsite.

Yesterday, we talked more. Decisions followed:

Those who follow my “Thoughts” know that my preference is to post a lot of pictures and to “go deep” into the backstories of places we visit. I want to “bring you along”. What I want, and what I deliver may have to be two different things on this trip.

I am reminded that when Christine and I shop at Christmas for the “grands” there are many things that we want to buy, feeling some sense of disappointment that we can’t buy it all. However, what the grandchildren see with gratitude is what they actually receive, not our “wants” for them. So it will be with you on this journey. Fewer pictures and shorter narrative. That was decision number one for the day.

As much as it pained us, practicality and sanity won out regarding Isle St. Pierre. We have canceled the ferry, tour, and altered the camping location for those 2 days, saving hundreds of miles of driving and not a little stress. That was decision number two for the day.

By the way, while fuel costs are not significant to our planning, a Canadian couple we met at camp last week shared that they smile every time they gas up in the US at “only” $5 a gallon. It seems that the Canadian average for regular gas, converted to gallons and in US dollars, is over $6.50.

Peace Everyone. Pete

PS. I am typing this post-script aboard the CAT Ferry bound for Yarmouth Nova Scotia, saving about 700 miles of driving. There is conflicting information about what foods we can travel with into Canada. One source says virtually nothing and another indicates not more than a lot (in kilograms).

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Loading for ordinary automobiles is straightforward drive-on. However since I’m towing a trailer I had to back up a 500+ foot dock and loading ramp into the ship. Fortunately, been there, done that. For the uninitiated the ship crew will do it for you.

Conditions are a bit rocky, and definitely not to Christine’s liking.

We lose an hour, making landfall at 7:30 pm local time.

June 27, 2022. My previous post introduced you to the remarkable Shelburne Museum located in Shelburne, Vermont. Let me emphasize that it is truly world class, and remarkable.

For details about its founding, history, scope, and how we happened upon it, please go the the previous post.

The Remarkable Shelburne Museum, Part One

Within the Shelburne’s grounds were two sites that are deserving of separate treatment. The first of these is the Carousel and Circus Building.

The restored vintage Carousel is great fun for young and old alike. The attendant remarked that adults seem to be more excited to ride it than the little ones.

Standing alone it is a pleasant diversion, but it really sets the stage for the entry into the Circus Building.

This 500 foot long, narrow, horseshoe shaped structure houses the life work of two men and artifacts from the glory days of the Circus.

Railroad brakeman Edgar Kirk set to create a special toy for his 4 children, “The Kirk Circus”.

In 1910, using his penknife, he began to carve figures that became the performers, audience, and “Big Top” of his circus. His passion became near obsession. 46 years later “The Kirk Circus” had grown to over 3,500 figures of amazing detail. His children long outgrown toys, Edgar would occasionally “bring the circus” to his backyard to the delight of children and adults alike.

This phenomenal exhibit, located at the start of the Circus Building, was acquired by the Museum in 1981.

As amazing as Edgar Kirk’s work is, it is but a shadow to what one next experiences in the gallery.

As a child, Roy Arnold loved circus parades. His love carried into adulthood so much so that between 1925 and 1955 he, along with the assistance of 5 others, hand carved and recreated the circus parades of his youth.

Rendered in a scale of one-inch equals a foot, his scale model is over 525 feet long, includes nearly 4,000 pieces, and is the equivalent of a parade over two miles long.

The wagons, carriages, and cages are fully functional in every important detail.

On the wall opposite to this singular parade are actual 19th and early 20th Century circus artifacts. These include signboards, wood sculptures, and restored carousel creatures.

The steamship Ticonderoga was launched from the Shelburne shipyards in 1906. She measured 220 feet long with a beam of nearly 60 feet.

This Lake Champlain behemoth had a displacement (weight) of nearly 2 million pounds. She sailed the lake for 48 years. At her retirement this side-wheel “walking beam” steamship of a bygone era was destined for the scrapheap, until she was brought to the attention of and purchased by Electra Havemeyer Webb.

That is only the beginning of the story. How does one move a 200+ foot, 2 million pound ship, more than two miles overland to her final destination for restoration and exhibit? Where there is a will (and a LOT of money) there is a way.

Planning, engineering, and execution took over a year. The actual move, covering over 2 miles of ground, took 3 months.

A huge dry lagoon pit was excavated near where the Ticonderoga was at dock. Only a dike separated the pit from the waters of Lake Champlain. Within the pit two sets of precisely laid railroad tracks were set in parallel. These four rails were supported by a special bed of ties, designed to support the load of the ship and carriage upon which the vessel would travel. Rails and carriage in place, the dike was breached to allow the pit to flood over the tracks and carriage. Ticonderoga was then brought into the lagoon, afloat over the now submerged structures. With extreme care and precision the waters were pumped out after the dike was restored. Any failure to accurately center the ship would have been disastrous. The ship came to rest only a quarter inch off center, at which point her hull was welded to the carriage.

Due to her extreme size and weight the move could only occur over frozen ground. Tracks were set and removed as she moved across farms, forest and fields. Utilities had to be temporarily rerouted as she passed, and at one point a temporary trestle had to be constructed so she could pass over an active rail line. The move and restoration of the Ticonderoga stands as one of the most significant achievements of its kind, certainly on par with the recovery of King Henry VIII’s flagship, the Mary Rose. Here is a link to that “tale”:

“The Mary Rose”

Ticonderoga achieved the status in 1960 as a National Historic Site. Virtually the entire ship is open to the public.

From the engine room and crew quarters,

To the Captain’s quarters and Pilot House.

Primarily engaged for day-sailing, there were only 5 staterooms.

The dining room, passenger promenade deck, and grand staircase were all of the highest order and finish.

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Ticonderoga was a “walking beam” side wheel steam driven ship, a 19th Century design. Her two huge boilers, kept fed by two men shoveling from 28 tons of onboard coal, could propel her at a top speed of over 20 mph. Sheconsuming coal at the rate of two tons per hour.

The Shelburne Museum ranks as one of our finest “on-the-fly” finds. We hope to return some day to finish our tour of this remarkable museum.

Peace Everyone. Pete

PS. Our campground for the nights of January 26 and 27 was Vermont’s Allis State Park. Named after Wallace Steele Allis (1859-1935), he donated his farm atop Bear Hill to the State in 1928 to preserve its beauty for the benefit of future generations. Allis State Park was Vermont’s second State Park, and was developed by the Civilian Conservation Corps in the 1930’s.

Prominent in the Park is a 6 story fire tower once used by the US Forest Service to spot forest fires.

It is open for the those daring enough to climb its near open staircase. The reward is an amazing view that in the far distance even includes New Hampshire’s highest peak, 6,288 foot Mount Washington.

Another benefit was cell coverage that helped me to upload some of these images.

Below are manicured picnic grounds, a 1930’s era shelter, and to our surprise and delight a storyboard of pages taken from the cutest of children’s tales.

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We happily shared our campfire each night with one of the Park Rangers, David on the first night and Ashland on the second. I can’t express how satisfying and rewarding it is to share such time in passing with new friends.