Category: Letters Home

The Storm before the Calm

Posted on by Pete Schloss

October 17-18, 2022. At Padron and nearing Santiago, Spain.

Dear Christine. Yesterday was the surprise conclusion of one Camino highlight that we were not aware of in 2018. The city of Padron is reputed to be the place where the earthly remains of Saint James landed ashore in a stone boat. The vessel was secured by tying to an ancient stone bollard. The coffin was then wheeled overland to its final resting place where it would be discovered hundreds of years later. This was the start of the Santiago legend and pilgrimage traditions.

What we didn’t know in 2018 was that by walking the pilgrimage and visiting the church where the original stone bollard remains, enshrined beneath the altar of the church built around it, we were entitled to the Pedronia Certificate.

I would’ve missed this again had I’m not been told by the lady at reception in my Padron hotel.

On the road this morning I visited the church of Iria Flavia where Saint James preached in the very earliest days of the church. Archaeologists verify the remains of a church that dates to the early 500s and was later sacked in 997. The “new church“ dates to the 12th century! Next to the church were a number of excavated stone coffins.

Yesterday I again walked in the company of Tina.

We spent enough time speaking German that I began to experience the “language headache“ so often described by our former exchange students. She is very encouraging and even surprised by the extent of my vocabulary. She says I have to work on pronunciation.

All in all it was an excellent day that included some unusual sites.

A young Polish couple actually camping as they walk the Camino. When I passed them they were in the process of trying to get their things dried out.
A nice example of the Galician Horreo (for grain storage). I learned that even when these are located on private property they are protected historical structures that may not be modified without permission of the government.

I attended mass which was also unusual, both for my attendance and for the manner with which it was presented. A woman read the gospel and the priest took two communions while none was given to the congregation (only about eight people in the huge and ancient convent church).

It is my speculation that this is because of Covid.

Rather than walk the 25 km into Santiago today I chose to walk 10 km to a midpoint, spend the night, and then proceed tomorrow with the remaining 15 km so as to arrive early at the Cathedral Square.

Hotel options were limited and I chose Pension Pividal, a bit steep at €60 for the night. A better name for it would be “Hotel 60”, same quality as Motel 6 in the States, just more expensive.

My room was clean (a good thing), and sterile but not in a good way.

At least there was a bathtub with the promise of a hot soak, or so I thought. There was no stopper in the tub. I went down the two flights of stairs to reception, but no one was there. I then walked to the adjoining bar/café which also serves as the reception. Using my translation app I asked for a stopper. I received a polite “no“, it seems that the hotel doesn’t have enough hot water to fill the tub! They suggested I just use the shower.

Unhappy and frustrated I set off on a long hike to cool my jets. About a mile and a half from the hotel the skies darkened and I got caught in a torrential downpour. That certainly “cooled my jets”! I was soaked through and through. By the way, although the hotel advertised a laundry service, it was not available.

I ended up wearing my wet clothes to allow body heat to facilitate drying. I had a couple of beers and a reasonably decent pizza at the bar and then returned to my room.

It was like a refrigerator. Time to turn the heat on… You guessed it, no heat. Back to the bar/café and with the aid of my translating app I explained this new situation. A somewhat exasperated lady met me back up the stairs where she was going to show me how to turn the heat on. it didn’t work for her either.

The hotel is virtually empty (what do they do for hot water when it’s full!) and she began to open almost every room on my floor looking for one that had heat. After half dozen tries she succeeded. I am now in a room with three twin beds. Still no stopper in the bathtub.

When I got caught in the downpour, but after I was already soaked, I did find some shelter at a gas station. The station had a limited selection of food items. I was able to buy a few things for an early morning breakfast.

It’s my intention to hit the road at dawn and make it to the Cathedral by noon. My order of business will be to register at the pilgrim office, get my certificate, and check into my room. The weather does not look promising… more rain. I have reserved two nights at (hopefully) a decent hotel. I look to begin my hike to the Atlantic coast on Friday. I am allowing myself 12 days to cover that additional 210km. It’s doable, but I’m going to “listen to my body“ as you have ordered.

Hopefully, I will find some peace tomorrow in Santiago. At the minimum I’m looking forward to a beer courtesy of Ken and Bambi who arrived in Santiago yesterday.

Don’t worry about me. I am confident that this day will pass… just like a kidney stone!

Love you Dear! Me

PS. Some more pictures:

A muddy path under the grape arbors
This is one of a number of large murals commissioned by beer maker Estrella Galicia commemorating the accomplishments of citizens. This is the famous pepper grower, Sr. Milagros who knows how to spot a hot pepper merely by observing it and rolling her fingers over its fine skin. She is credited with raising the finest peppers for the legendary Padron pepper tapas.
Where I rested for lunch.

PPS. Overnight there has been a terrible storm, complete with incredible wind, thunder, lightning, and hail. The rain is predicted to continue.

Short and Sweet

Posted on by Pete Schloss

October 16, 2022. At Caldas de Reis, Spain.

Dear Christine. I’m back from dinner. (BTW. The restaurants do not open for dinner until 8 PM and things do not really get rolling until at least 9 PM. Therefore, “back from dinner” means 11 PM) It had been my intention to get some much needed sleep, but then before my eyes closed I decided I wanted to share with you, while the day was fresh in my thoughts.

I had to get up very early this morning and have my bag ready for transport by 7 AM. This was because of a marathon that was to start in the vicinity of my hotel. The roads would be blocked which would prevent the baggage company from reaching the hotel. Kind of like Kansas City, right?

My backpack went out the door promptly at 7. Instead of returning to my room I decided to just head out on the Camino. This presented a really unusual experience since it does not become light until 8:30 AM. For the first hour and a half I walked out of town and into the countryside in darkness.

In Kansas City this would’ve been unthinkable, however here it was surreal. I had to be hyper vigilant in looking for the Camino waymarks. It would not have been good to get lost.

Complicating matters was the constant drizzle that sometime morphed into full-blown rain. I had a significant head start on most other pilgrims except for those who began their day further down the road from different locations. For the first hour and a half I walked alone.

Around 10 AM I happen to see a pilgrim trying to shelter under an awning. I reflexively call to her in English, “How is that working for you?“ To which she replied, “It’s not!“ She emerged from under the awning and we began walking together.

There were the usual introductions: “Where are you from… Where did you begin your Camino…”

Her name was Marianna and she was from the Netherlands. This struck me as curious. Last night Lynn and Tina spoke fondly of a Dutch pilgrim that they had separately met named Marianna. Was it possible that this was her? Yes! What’s more, she knew a bit about me having discussed with Tina our encounter.

After a bit, Marianna stopped for coffee but I continued on the way. We promised to try and get together for dinner.

For me it was a wet 21 km slog through forest paths and byways.

I chose to wear shorts thinking that skin dries faster than cloth. This is true, however it also means the chill goes deeper into the bone. By the time I reached town I was shivering. By the time I was in my room I was ready for a hot shower. A brief rest turned into an hour and a half of deep sleep.

I had text contact information for Lynn, Tina, and Mariana. I also had a recommendation for a wonderful local restaurant. A few text messages and arrangements were made with the four of us to meet for dinner at 8 PM.

At first we were denied a table, no reservation. Tina speaks excellent Spanish and convinced the proprietor to find us a table. Our table was made out of a millstone, which was appropriate since the restaurant was at one time a grain mill powered by the rushing waters from the river below.

The sound of the river was ever present (and pleasant) throughout the course of our meal.

Men do not share and communicate as women typically do. I count myself honored to have been included at table with these three good women. This evening was another gift from the Camino.

Please send me a text message with the final score of the Chiefs game.

Sweet dreams! Love, Me.

Improbable Encounters

Posted on by Pete Schloss

October 16, 2022. At Pontevedra, Spain.

Dear Christine. Whatever today lacked in pictures it more than made up for in emotional connections. Before I explore the depths of those matters, here’s the business of the day:

I decided to spend an extra day in Pontevedra to arrange lodgings between here and Santiago, baggage transfers to that point, bag storage to lighten my pack for my hike to the Atlantic coast, and final accommodations before I fly to meet you in Barcelona.

With just a few “hiccups“ all of that was successfully arranged. I then set off in search of breakfast and took a stroll through this wonderful old town.

I visited the main cathedral where it was obvious that preparation’s were being made for a wedding.

For lunch I found a pizza-by-the-slice shop which did honor to that centuries-old tradition, and later one of your favorites, Peppers Padron.

While I sat watching life evolve around me it occurred to me that the Camino is like a tidal river: In the morning the pilgrims leave for their day’s journey, much is tidal waters recede. In the afternoon a flow of new pilgrims arrive, again like the surge of an incoming tide.

When I am walking the Camino, I am part of, and belong to that flow. However, by staying behind an extra day I left the stream. I left Ken and Bambi, acquiring in their place a sense of loss. We hold hope to rejoin for dinner this coming Wednesday evening in Santiago.

Pizza and peppers consumed, I began walking the narrow streets of the old city. I was alone with my thoughts which bounced around like ping pong balls in a lottery tumbler. I thought of Kris, Ken, Bambi, and of course you. At some point I thought of a German woman who joined Ken, Bambi, and me at a pizza restaurant two nights ago in Redondela. She was walking solo and experiencing some difficulty with blisters. Within a minute of those thoughts she emerged from a side street to walk in front of me! I recognized the hair, her orange colored top, and reflexively called, “Tina!“ With a look of shock she turned, and after a brief hesitation replied, “Peter?“

We spoke. She was on her way to her hostel after a challenging day. We arranged to meet at 7 pm for drinks and dinner.

Nearing the appointed hour I waited near her hostel, admiring a hundreds of years old stone cross that marked the route of the Camino.

I was soon joined by a woman who first focused on that cross, but then turned her attention to me, “I know you!“ It was Lynn who gifted me the silver Camino shell that I attached to my earring. As you have said, it appears I am transforming myself into a pirate! When I last saw her, she and Bambi were preparing to dip their tired feet in a creek’s cooling waters.

A few minutes later I was introducing Tina and Lynn to each other, and the three of us set off to begin a memorable, perhaps even magical evening.

The three of us hope to meet again tomorrow for dinner. The next destination is 23 km from here, Caldas de Reis, site of ancient Roman thermal baths that continue to pour forth their 100+ degree waters.

I can sum up the evening in five words: I wish you were here. Love, Me

PS. It appears that whatever has been preventing email notices of these posts from being sent out has at least partially been corrected. It seems that Gmail accounts are once again receiving the links. My fingers are crossed that the resolution is broader than that.

The Soul of this Camino

Posted on by Pete Schloss

October 14, 2022. At Pontevedra, Spain.

Dear Christine. It’s 1130 at night here and 3:30 in the afternoon where you are. It’s one thing to be separated by distance, and yet stranger to be separated by time. I’m looking forward to your arrival in France in a couple of weeks. Even though we will remain physically separated at least we will be in the same temporal world!

Today I again happened to encounter Ken and Bambi walking the Camino. They are wonderful people and I look forward to us connecting with them in Georgia, Kansas City, Colorado, or all of the above.

One thing different about today was the explosion of Americans that we encountered. There were people from Oregon, Minnesota, California… and this delightful lady, Lynn, who has been gifting every American she meets with a small silver Santiago scallop shell.

I attached mine to one of my earrings and promised Lynn that it would not come off for the duration of this Camino. I confess that I am not very good with “selfies“.

We visited for quite a while along a stream in the woods. She explained that she was selling everything back in the States and moving to Portugal. She is such a kind and deeply spiritual lady in a way that reminds me of our dear friend Maggie.

I also understand that there is a couple here from Missouri, but nobody has been able to tell me from what part.

We arrived in Pontevedra this afternoon after a somewhat difficult 21 km hike that included two significant uphill sections.

We rejoined for dinner. The prices are amazing. An excellent BOTTLE of wine cost only €13. The whole dinner which included appetizer, main dishes, coffee, after dinner drinks, and dessert, was just south of €100 for the three of us!

In addition to Americans, today featured Sarah and Jessica, sisters from Venezuela.

There were also Peregrinos from Germany, Holland, South Africa, Spain, Italy, and France, just to name a few.

Pontevedra is where the coastal route of the Portuguese Camino merges with the central route. No doubt, that explains the increase in “traffic“. Today is also the day that I think I found the soul of this journey. Not in the places, but in the people. It was that way in 2013, 2018, and I’m finding it to be the same in 2022.

I have decided to take an extra day here in Pontevedra and dedicate time to creating an itinerary that will take me into Santiago and then on to Finisterra and Muxia.

As of this evening I am only 67 km from Santiago. Santiago lay 251 km ahead when I took my first steps toward that destination on October 4th. These last 10 days have been a blur!

Ken and Bambi will continue on in the morning but we are going to do our best to rejoin for dinner in Santiago this coming Wednesday. They will be staying in the Parador Hotel ($$$$), while I am working to secure an accommodation in one of the pilgrim rooms at Hospitallilo San Martin Pinario ($).

I’ve tried to balance staying at albergues with staying in simple and inexpensive hotels. The hotels offer privacy with the luxury of one’s own bath, but the hostels and albergues give a sense of adventure and communal association. Last night a small group of South African pilgrims were up late and needed help finishing their wine. I was happy to oblige!

Here are some images from my room last night in Redondela.

My tiny space had two beds with an open passage to a second similar room separated only by a pulldown blind. Thankfully, no-one was in the second bed in my room. Unfortunately, the adjoining space featured a world class snorer. Still it was one of the best nights sleep that I’ve had so far on this journey.

I am including some images from today and yesterday with captions where appropriate.

This is an informal vendor who has set up to make a few euro by selling trinkets, snacks,and beverages
Another vendor, she is operating out of her car.

Please give the grandkids hugs from me and wishes for success in their sports this weekend!

I’m counting down the days until we are in the same time zone… and then the same place.

Love, Me.

Panic Before Dawn

Posted on by Pete Schloss

October 12, 2022. At Vigo, Spain.

Dear Christine. I had a wonderful time at dinner last night with Tom and Bambi, from Georgia. It’s remarkable how alike many of our professional and life circumstances are.

In 2018 we were fortunate to have met our Canadian “doppelgängers“ Tom and Nanci. History repeats, but alas you are not here. I am confident we will get together back in the States. The motivation is strong and they have heard so much about you for me it is as if they already know you.

My walk back to the Pension last night was spectacular. I did not have my camera, but then I did have my iPhone.

Early yesterday as I was reviewing today’s route it appeared that I was up against a very long day of well over 25 km. On top of that there were a number of significant climbs and route complications. I decided to catch an early morning bus and eliminate the first 7 km. This would also leapfrog me out of the urban area and into some very pleasant forest trails.

First light does not occur here until 8:30 AM. The bus departure was 8 AM and because there is some kind of a holiday there was a reduced timetable. The next bus would not be until 10 AM, too late for me.

I arrived at the bus stop 15 minutes early. The bus was already there, engine running, but the bus driver did not open the door until 10 minutes before departure. As I began to step onto the bus he halted me and pointed to his masked face. No mask, no ride, no exception! Nobody told me! I was in a panic. The driver spoke no English but was touched by my predicament. He searched through his own belongings to see if he had an extra mask. No mask.

The clock was ticking and I ran across the street to a café that had just opened. I pantomimed my need to the proprietor and the only two customers who were enjoying their coffee. No masks.

I returned to the bus stop and laying my day pack down in the dark I began frantically searched through its contents by feel. No mask.

Crestfallen, I began to turn toward the bus to indicate my defeat. However, my eye caught a dark shape just a few feet from me, nearly camouflaged and invisible against the dark bench. IT WAS A MASK!!

With less than a minute to spare I was on the bus and we were wheels-rolling out of town.

Camino magic? Camino moment? Miracle?… Or just somebody forgot their mask. In any case, in my moment of need my eye set up on it. It really doesn’t matter what I call it. The outcome was the same. The incident set into motion a cascade of thoughts that lasted the duration of my 21 km hike. I wish you had been at my side so that I could have processed my musings with you in real time. Writing them to you in this letter is the next best thing.

As I have said many times: Every miracle comes in two parts, that it occurred, and more important that it was noticed. It also occurs to me that our common understanding of what constitutes a “miracle“ blinds us to the “little miracles” of daily life. The magnitude of those events portrayed from church pulpits is beyond most human experience. What if the conspiracy of time and retelling has taken otherwise noteworthy events and embellished them into the fantastic? Like the size of an angler’s catch grows with each retelling.

Take for example the biblical miracle of the loaves and fishes. In Christ’s time hospitality required the host to provide food and drink for his guests. A multitude had assembled to hear Jesus speak. In essence, he was the host and they were the guests. Imagine the panic of the disciples… How could they possibly honor their duty to such a crowd?

I was taught in parochial school that Jesus found a boy carrying a basket with loaves and fish. Jesus blessed the food, broke the bread and then in distributing them the amount of food miraculously expanded to fill everyone’s need with 12 baskets of leftovers remaining. A miracle! But what if there is an alternate explanation:

Jesus was often referred to as “Teacher“. In fact, that is exactly what he was doing that day on the Mount, teaching. What if in securing those loaves and fish he intentionally and publicly shared the food with those around him, teaching by example.

In that era people rarely left home without taking some food and drink with them. By his example Christ inspired the crowd to share and care for one another. Isn’t that a miracle? What’s more, it is something that Jesus could teach that is within our human capacity to repeat. Amen.

The hike today was long but very pleasant. Most of it was through a huge forest, climbing up and through the mountains overlooking the sea. It was certainly much more pleasant than slogging through the urban areas below.

I did take one wrong turn which ended up adding a few kilometers to my hike. Thank goodness for the early morning bus ride!

This church dates to the 13th century!

I arrived in Vigo in the early afternoon. It is urban, and that says it all.

I am meeting Ken and Bambi again for dinner this evening and looking forward to sharing our tales from this day.

Thank you for being my wife… and at times my muse. Love, Peter

PS. During my hike I passed by an attractive rural home and yard. An older woman was creating a mosaic on the wall next to her garden. It was quite extraordinary. I wish I could’ve stopped to talk with her but I was afraid I would merely scare her and distract her from her art.